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Driveshaft carrier bearing

Landslide

Red Skull Member
Joined
May 20, 2020
Member Number
422
Messages
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I replaced the rear u joint on my 16 f150 and checked the carrier bearing while I had it down. It’s smooth spinning but I can hear it talking some. So thus the adventure begins looking for a new carrier bearing for it. I figured I’d get the new bearing and do it some other time.

so I call a couple parts stores, they don’t show one available for it. I call my local driveshaft builder specialist and he tells me more then likely I’ll need to replace the shaft or he can modify it to use some better setup that’s serviceable. I’m thinking naaah this thing can’t be a disposal driveline could it?!? I can only find shit out there for up to 2014 and that’s pretty much it.

I find it hard to think they wouldn’t make it serviceable but who knows anymore. I’m going to go to a ford dealer and see what the fawk is up.

Anyone else run into this before?
 
I find it hard to believe that the entire shaft needs to be replaced. I've replaced the carrier bearing a few times in the 20 years I've owned my 85 Toyota....but it's still the stock shaft.

I think they're pulling your leg (pun intended:flipoff2:)
 
90% of newer vehicle parts like that are made to be thrown away and replaced as a complete unit. Ford doesn't want you to be able to get your own replacement parts unless you go full custom. Aint no money in slinging penny parts. Your surprised by this?

Your going to be shocked when you find out your tie-rods and ball joints don't have grease fittings either....... :lmao:
 
We just ran into this at work. 2016 Ram 3500 cab and chassis. Apparently the driveshaft is “fused” together and can not be disassembled. The whole shaft needs replaced if the carrier bearing is toast. The shaft is about $1200.
 
Just replaced the carrier bearing on my 16 silverado, so not all are junk
 
Correct, not a serviceable part.

Be prepared to plunk down $1800 for a whole shaft. Ford got busy making this happen a long time ago. Fags.
 
Yep, fuck ford and their "staked on" u-joints. I priced out the tool to grind out the stakes (can also do it with a die grinder carefully). Then you need big $$$ special joints.

Had a driveshaft place build me a proper shaft with serviceable parts for the same price as a new ford turd.

Can you not just hack off the old one and prep the driveshaft for a split pillow block?
 
Ford sucks, worse than I ever remember Ford sucking. Our work 2019 F550 has been the biggest pile of shit ever including an imploding fuel tank that somehow cost $4,000 and was not covered under warranty even though they admitted the vent fucked up and they have updated parts to fix it. TSB clearly identifies the problem on a truck that's not even a year old and it's somehow not their fault? I won't even get going about the pinion bearing power steering pump and lift pump that we have already replaced on this unit.

FUCK FORD
 
Correct, not a serviceable part.

Be prepared to plunk down $1800 for a whole shaft. Ford got busy making this happen a long time ago. Fags.

I’ll take it to my local driveshaft builder, he said he’d modify it to be old school serviceable. Aftermarket complete shafts are a bit over $500. CHINA no doubt. I’ll feed my local guy first before going that route.
 
I’ll take it to my local driveshaft builder, he said he’d modify it to be old school serviceable. Aftermarket complete shafts are a bit over $500. CHINA no doubt. I’ll feed my local guy first before going that route.

Fuck, first I agree with everdouche, and now I agree with you. What's going on around here? :laughing:
 
What cab configuration? Does it even need a stupid 2 piece driveshaft? I'd see what length it is and then ask your local driveline shop about a 1 piece
 
What cab configuration? Does it even need a stupid 2 piece driveshaft? I'd see what length it is and then ask your local driveline shop about a 1 piece

:flipoff2:


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What cab configuration? Does it even need a stupid 2 piece driveshaft? I'd see what length it is and then ask your local driveline shop about a 1 piece

Supercrew cab with the long bed. 157.8 wheelbase it looks like reading specs.
 
Pull the rear shaft and put it on a shelf, drive around in front wheel drive until parting ways time, put the rear shaft back in, sell it.
 
IIRC years ago I used a K5 Blazer bearing on my Supra, welded a couple tabs on it and it was all good. $400 part vs $40 part.

With my Tacoma there was an SKF part available, the first one was defective, second held up fine. My Frontier has an aluminum 1 piece, much nicer.
 
Pull the rear shaft and put it on a shelf, drive around in front wheel drive until parting ways time, put the rear shaft back in, sell it.

I see no issue here.

I drove my beater 4Runner for a whole year in front wheel drive because I didn’t wanna do u joints in the rear shaft. :laughing:
 
A 6.5' bed isn't a long bed. :flipoff2:



it ain’t an 8’ like I’d want but I don’t think they even make it available in this configuration. It is however the longer of the two bed options available thus making it a fawking long bed :flipoff2:
 
it ain’t an 8’ like I’d want but I don’t think they even make it available in this configuration. It is however the longer of the two bed options available thus making it a fawking long bed :flipoff2:

No. That is a "standard bed"


Short bed 5.5'
Standard bed 6.5'
Long bed 8'
 
Supercrew cab with the long bed. 157.8 wheelbase it looks like reading specs.

On my old 2006 crewcab 'long box' the carrier bearing went out. I took it to a driveshaft shop and had them modify it. Owner said they do it all the time on these Fords.
Carrier Bearing - 2006 F-150 crew cab 6.5 foot bed 2wd.jpg
 
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