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- Sep 9, 2021
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But but you didnt step up every 1/16" with your drill bits.
I don't want your money, but I just drilled through one of my 1/2 plates and videoed it for you. cheap Fastenal bit and a little Boelube. I'll upload it and post a link when its done. I have 10-12 plates of AR500 1/2'' thick I cut for long range targets.
Just looked up that norseman drill bits. They sound pretty impressive. If you believe their press, they out preform cobalt. I do have a couple big drills from Fastenal. Certainly better than Lowe’s. It sucks, My local Fastenal closed. I still have money on account there. Now the closest one is an hour away.He's running just a normal norseman drill bit
You must have a lot of choices. Here, it was Fastenal or Lowe’s. I guess Tractor supply has bits, I can’t say I’ve ever checked them out. McMaster usually gets me stuff next day, but they aren’t afraid to charge.They are a decent do everything drill bit. Thats what most shops use around here, because thats what both the bolt places are selling, and they have a big ol box of bits next to the cash register They are far from high end, super metal, fancy shit..
I like their drill/tap idexes. Spendy for what they are, but very handy
Our fastenal went from being pretty decent, to being that store you drive by while you go somewhere else
Just order a few up online, and dont try to sharpen them
No one asked what it was for. It a skid plate. But I like the fold down sun visor in case the feds show up idea.I get the OCD on fitment. You still won't tell us what the plate is for. Belly Skid?, Sunvisor?
Plan B. Cut all the holes with a torch. Assembly the plate onto the thing or place it goes. Drop in a bushing > bolt. Weld bushing to plate. Finish with a grinder and a frosty beverage.
Torch the holeNo one asked what it was for. It a skid plate. But I like the fold down sun visor in case the feds show up idea.
Anyways, I got the 1/2” cobalt bit and I just drilled the first hole with it. Goes just like Muleskinner’s video, only faster.
Next question, is a roughing end mill going to cut this stuff? I’m thinking for the big 2” hole if a hole saw won’t do it.
Wtf man you special? A hole saw isn’t gonna cut that for shit. You gonna have more in consumables in that plate Get A regular piece of steel or have the ar cut via laser or plasma.No one asked what it was for. It a skid plate. But I like the fold down sun visor in case the feds show up idea.
Anyways, I got the 1/2” cobalt bit and I just drilled the first hole with it. Goes just like Muleskinner’s video, only faster.
Next question, is a roughing end mill going to cut this stuff? I’m thinking for the big 2” hole if a hole saw won’t do it.
Good god if you ask how to bend it next.
Ar plate does not bend for shit. Even heated up it has a tendency to tear. Only piece I had success with is using the flame straightening techniques to roll a 5/8 or 3/4” x 60” plate for an excavator bucket bottom. That took a full day. It should be In my I break rocks thread a few winters back.Ummm, well I don’t need to bend this one, but I also need to make a skid for the T-case. The back edge is designed for the T-case skid to bolt on. I haven’t even really worked out that skid otherwise, but it will probably need to be bent. Is there any reason I can’t bend it with a torch?
2" rotobroach, lots of of pressure and cutting oil.No one asked what it was for. It a skid plate. But I like the fold down sun visor in case the feds show up idea.
Anyways, I got the 1/2” cobalt bit and I just drilled the first hole with it. Goes just like Muleskinner’s video, only faster.
Next question, is a roughing end mill going to cut this stuff? I’m thinking for the big 2” hole if a hole saw won’t do it.
Wtf man you special? A hole saw isn’t gonna cut that for shit.
Ar plate does not bend for shit. Even heated up it has a tendency to tear. Only piece I had success with is using the flame straightening techniques to roll a 5/8 or 3/4” x 60” plate for an excavator bucket bottom. That took a full day. It should be In my I break rocks thread a few winters back.
Wtf man you special? A hole saw isn’t gonna cut that for shit.
You ruined it for all of us. This thread had real potential
i started with a drill doctor and hand sharpening etc. but i used to go thru so many bits doing the same stupid shit that i bought a drill bit cabinet and filled it. (remember i'm a fake it till you make it metal fab guy, i wasn't very good when i started) so i could have at least 10 brand new in every size up to 1/2". all brand new perfect bits. $$$$$. funny thing happened at that very same time, i learned from what i was doing wrong. can see when things are starting to fuck off before its a bigger problem. now drill bits last me so long I can't remember the last time i had to buy new to refill the cabinet.
hand sharpen a bit and think, wow, this drills great.... then notice only one flute is pulling chips... stop. if only one in pulling chips the other is rubbing and work hardening.
I do that on spring steel. Works fine. Masonry drills need to be at least mid tier quality, not the cheapest shit though.I heard carbide mason drill also work in AR500 but no experience.
Used carbide end mills with a chip somewhere on a side flute go cheap on Ebay, like $10 a pop and they will eat anything.Go back to this setup but use a center cutting endmill or even a 1/2" annular cutter.
Gears are not wearing much if at all if not under load.Kick the power down feed out of gear if you’re not using it, no reason to wear the gears out unnecessarily!
They are speed limited and running them at high speed will wear the bushings out, even unloaded. There’s no good way to keep them lubricated with out a fair amount of disassembly, I guess it doesn’t matter since you can just get another one for free. I’ll leave mine in neutral if it’s ok with youGears are not wearing much if at all if not under load.