- Joined
- Sep 9, 2021
- Member Number
- 4387
- Messages
- 2,910
But but you didnt step up every 1/16" with your drill bits.
Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
Drilling AR500
- Thread starter WaterH
- Start date
But but you didnt step up every 1/16" with your drill bits.
Firstram
Red Skull Member
You forgot the pilot hole
Kick the power down feed out of gear if you’re not using it, no reason to wear the gears out unnecessarily!
WaterH
Well-known member
The video is very interesting. It looks like you are turning at the same speed as me. Not sure about that lube, I’m using CRC cutting oil. It is a spray foam kind of oil. I don’t know what “cheap Fastenal bit” is made of. If you come down here and sharpen my bit any way you like and drill through my plate, I will be happy to give you a grand to watch.
Im sure hoping my cobalt bits I get tomorrow go like that.
- Joined
- Sep 9, 2021
- Member Number
- 4387
- Messages
- 2,910
He's running just a normal norseman drill bit
Last edited:
WaterH
Well-known member
Just looked up that norseman drill bits. They sound pretty impressive. If you believe their press, they out preform cobalt. I do have a couple big drills from Fastenal. Certainly better than Lowe’s. It sucks, My local Fastenal closed. I still have money on account there. Now the closest one is an hour away.
- Joined
- Sep 9, 2021
- Member Number
- 4387
- Messages
- 2,910
They are a decent do everything drill bit. Thats what most shops use around here, because thats what both the bolt places are selling, and they have a big ol box of bits next to the cash register
They are far from high end, super metal, fancy shit..
I like their drill/tap idexes. Spendy for what they are, but very handy
Our fastenal went from being pretty decent, to being that store you drive by while you go somewhere else
Just order a few up online, and dont try to sharpen them
They are far from high end, super metal, fancy shit..I like their drill/tap idexes. Spendy for what they are, but very handy
Our fastenal went from being pretty decent, to being that store you drive by while you go somewhere else
Just order a few up online, and dont try to sharpen them
WaterH
Well-known member
You must have a lot of choices. Here, it was Fastenal or Lowe’s. I guess Tractor supply has bits, I can’t say I’ve ever checked them out. McMaster usually gets me stuff next day, but they aren’t afraid to charge.They are a decent do everything drill bit. Thats what most shops use around here, because thats what both the bolt places are selling, and they have a big ol box of bits next to the cash register
I like their drill/tap idexes. Spendy for what they are, but very handy
Our fastenal went from being pretty decent, to being that store you drive by while you go somewhere else
Just order a few up online, and dont try to sharpen them
- Joined
- Sep 9, 2021
- Member Number
- 4387
- Messages
- 2,910
Its a pretty industrial area. Dont realize how much is around here until you go somewhere else
Mcmaster is great but they are spendy. I dont buy much from them, would rather shop around a lil and wait a day or four for stuff to get here
shop around
www.emisupply.com
Mcmaster is great but they are spendy. I dont buy much from them, would rather shop around a lil and wait a day or four for stuff to get here
shop around
(6-PACK) 1/2" 87200 Norseman Viking USA Drill Bit Super Prem Mechanic Length | eBay
Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for (6-PACK) 1/2" 87200 Norseman Viking USA Drill Bit Super Prem Mechanic Length at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!
www.ebay.com
Norseman 190AG Magnum Super Premium Jobber Length Drill Bit 1/2
www.emisupply.com
Last edited:
I get the OCD on fitment. You still won't tell us what the plate is for. Belly Skid?, Sunvisor?
Plan B. Cut all the holes with a torch. Assembly the plate onto the thing or place it goes. Drop in a bushing > bolt. Weld bushing to plate. Finish with a grinder and a frosty beverage.
Plan B. Cut all the holes with a torch. Assembly the plate onto the thing or place it goes. Drop in a bushing > bolt. Weld bushing to plate. Finish with a grinder and a frosty beverage.
WaterH
Well-known member
No one asked what it was for. It a skid plate. But I like the fold down sun visor in case the feds show up idea.I get the OCD on fitment. You still won't tell us what the plate is for. Belly Skid?, Sunvisor?
Plan B. Cut all the holes with a torch. Assembly the plate onto the thing or place it goes. Drop in a bushing > bolt. Weld bushing to plate. Finish with a grinder and a frosty beverage.
Anyways, I got the 1/2” cobalt bit and I just drilled the first hole with it. Goes just like Muleskinner’s video, only faster.
Next question, is a roughing end mill going to cut this stuff? I’m thinking for the big 2” hole if a hole saw won’t do it.
Torch the hole
ThePanzerFuhrer
The Rock Breaker God
Wtf man you special? A hole saw isn’t gonna cut that for shit. You gonna have more in consumables in that plate
Get A regular piece of steel or have the ar cut via laser or plasma. I cut thousands of pounds of ar plate every year to rebuild the crushers. Cnc cutting plasma or laser is the only way to effectively fuck with that shit.
Good god if you ask how to bend it next.
WaterH
Well-known member
Good god if you ask how to bend it next.
Ummm, we’ll I don’t need to bend this one, but I also need to make a skid for the T-case. The back edge is designed for the T-case skid to bolt on. I haven’t even really worked out that skid otherwise, but it will probably need to be bent. Is there any reason I can’t bend it with a torch?
ThePanzerFuhrer
The Rock Breaker God
Ar plate does not bend for shit. Even heated up it has a tendency to tear. Only piece I had success with is using the flame straightening techniques to roll a 5/8 or 3/4” x 60” plate for an excavator bucket bottom. That took a full day. It should be In my I break rocks thread a few winters back.
bgaidan
Red Skull Member
- Joined
- Jul 18, 2020
- Member Number
- 2322
- Messages
- 2,974
2" rotobroach, lots of of pressure and cutting oil.
- Joined
- Sep 9, 2021
- Member Number
- 4387
- Messages
- 2,910
ThePanzerFuhrer
The Rock Breaker God
WaterH
Well-known member
I’m going to take your word for this. I think I will go lighter for the T-case skid. Maybe 3/16” or even 1/8”. (And it won’t be AR500)
You ruined it for all of us. This thread had real potential
Not quite.
It was actually pretty easy. (I did anneal that section)
arse_sidewards
Contrary to everything
- Joined
- May 19, 2020
- Member Number
- 71
- Messages
- 7,958
There's probably a fair degree of "being reputable enough to get more gravy work and less shit jobs while also being able to afford betting drilling equipment" going on there too.
Going from a $50 benchtop drill press to a bridgeport will probably double the life of your drills just by itself.
Or the flute cracked off a year ago.
I do that on spring steel. Works fine. Masonry drills need to be at least mid tier quality, not the cheapest shit though.
Used carbide end mills with a chip somewhere on a side flute go cheap on Ebay, like $10 a pop and they will eat anything.
You gotta drill real slow with them though since there's so much less void for chips between the flute
Gears are not wearing much if at all if not under load.
Last edited:
Firstram
Red Skull Member
They are speed limited and running them at high speed will wear the bushings out, even unloaded. There’s no good way to keep them lubricated with out a fair amount of disassembly, I guess it doesn’t matter since you can just get another one for free. I’ll leave mine in neutral if it’s ok with you