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DOT brake lines for rigs running long travel coil overs/ ORI's

Winchested

Winchested

IH Scout SSII
Joined
Jun 19, 2020
Member Number
2128
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1,364
Question for the builders.

How would you run the brake lines for the front axle?

I think we want this rig to stay DOT legal so no JIC or AN stuff right?

So come all the way back to the bottom link crossmember then run lines down the top of the links with zip tie tabs OR just run off the frame like stock with just extra long stainless brake lines that match the travel?

Imo I'd run just long braided brake lines but friend is thinking the lower link route. (I think they'd get ripped off in a heartbeat)

The rear axle is simple, just a longer intermediate line from the frame to axle.


This rig will have 16" ORI's on a '07 SD 60 ORI's mounted to the inner C's.

Thanks for any input.
 
Yes, top links, not bottom. Have done this on my jeep buggy and my 4runner front and I love it. No more floppy long brake lines to bungy out of the way. Everything is clean and tucked in where it needs to be.
 
top links and tee at axle. clamps like this to hold in place
1715696135088.png
 
I run 85' Monte Carlo front lines from calipers to axle, all for corners, then go hard lines to upper link mount on axle. Then same vehicle rear center brake lines from both of those to link, then hard lines up links, then back to the front soft lines at chassis then hard to master. These lines are cheap from Rock Auto and DOT. Easy to order a few spares and carry some hard line for repairs.
 
Winchested said:
Youre tee'ing the front lines too? My Scout is like that from factory. Works fine with 81 1 ton brakes.
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Yes. I just did a band clamp at the fitting instead of the fancy mount as I dont have a 3d printer or worried
 
I like hard line whereever possible and short sections of hose for flex. I used tabs and bulkhead style fittings to hold the line to the link.
20220212-220354.jpg
 
Hard line to engine cross member, soft line to top of pumpkin (soft line, vent hose and electrical for the e-locker are zip tied together), T, hard lines to ends of axles, soft lines to calipers.

I bought the braided line the length I needed and the caliper soft lines are for the axle, 1976 F150 with 14" coilovers. Hard lines I made. I think I got everything from Napa. I welded 1/2" 12x20 bolts head down to the top of the axle and used padded clamps with nylon lock nuts to hold the hard lines. The bolt heads space the clamps and lines 1/4" off the axle.
 
I ran:
Soft at master
Hard along frame
Soft at link joint
Hard on link
Soft at joint to tee
Soft along axle to each caliper

While I like hard lines , I didn’t want to add a bunch of extra fittings and failure points trying to transition to small section of hard lines. Point of diminishing returns.
SS braided with the plastic cover is arguably tougher than rigid mounted hardline. It can give and move instead of kink or crush.
DOT comes in a number of connections. The crimp is what marks DOT data. So the builder can use a lot of different parts and fitting types that may or may not have DOT requirements. The crimp is the part that puts the liability on the builder.
 
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Thanks for the tips guys, you've given us lots of ideas to contemplate!
 
I am not a fan of custom brake lines. Not because they aren't quality but it's mail order.

Not that it happens all the time but I've ripped a line or two off over the years from shit snagging them on the trail.

I am a firm believer in using off the shelf when possible and this is one of them. Find a long factory line that will work and is readily available because it fits something common.

I wouldn't argue against doing a single flex to the axle, then a T, then a flex at each wheel. But I would use flex lines that are off the shelf personally.
 
Skinny said:
I am not a fan of custom brake lines. Not because they aren't quality but it's mail order.

Not that it happens all the time but I've ripped a line or two off over the years from shit snagging them on the trail.

I am a firm believer in using off the shelf when possible and this is one of them. Find a long factory line that will work and is readily available because it fits something common.

I wouldn't argue against doing a single flex to the axle, then a T, then a flex at each wheel. But I would use flex lines that are off the shelf personally.
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On my build, I am measuring each run of hose, and making sure I have a spare. They are small, cheap, and light. Another thing I am doing, is making sure I have a spare for the hardlines. A few different hoses in a bag with some extra fittings, and now it doesn't have to be a stock part.
 
Winchested said:
I think we want this rig to stay DOT legal so no JIC or AN stuff right?
Click to expand...
AN isn't DOT legal?
1715730632342.png



I feel like there's so much more fucked up stuff on my rig that they'd focus on before looking at brake lines/fittings. :laughing:


Skinny said:
I am not a fan of custom brake lines. Not because they aren't quality but it's mail order.

Not that it happens all the time but I've ripped a line or two off over the years from shit snagging them on the trail.

I am a firm believer in using off the shelf when possible and this is one of them. Find a long factory line that will work and is readily available because it fits something common.

I wouldn't argue against doing a single flex to the axle, then a T, then a flex at each wheel. But I would use flex lines that are off the shelf personally.
Click to expand...

That's where the AN stuff is handy. Just about finishing up a buddy's rig and managed to get all the soft lines within a couple inches of each other in length. He can keep a couple spares in the longest length along with various fittings and adapters and likely cover 99% of any potential failure. Anything else would be parts store stuff.
 
bgaidan said:
AN isn't DOT legal?
1715730632342.png



I feel like there's so much more fucked up stuff on my rig that they'd focus on before looking at brake lines/fittings. :laughing:




That's where the AN stuff is handy. Just about finishing up a buddy's rig and managed to get all the soft lines within a couple inches of each other in length. He can keep a couple spares in the longest length along with various fittings and adapters and likely cover 99% of any potential failure. Anything else would be parts store stuff.
Click to expand...
Yes where we are we have to road drive between all of our trails and it's just not worth the hassle. Frig we get harrased for mud flaps enough.
 
Winchested said:
I think we want this rig to stay DOT legal so no JIC or AN stuff right?
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You fundamentally misunderstand how "DOT legal" works.

Most aftermarket stuff is gonna meet or exceed the relevant requirements but nobody's gonna stick their neck out there saying it does. But that doesn't matter.

bgaidan said:
AN isn't DOT legal?
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It probably is. There's a spec brake hoses have to meet. It's pressure, resistance to failure when stretched, a couple other things. I don't remember the exact numbers but I remember reading it and thinking to myself "wow, this is stupid, a fucking braided sleeve over a heater core hose would probably pass this". :laughing:

There's probably a spec for hard lines too but IDK what it is.
 
arse_sidewards said:
You fundamentally misunderstand how "DOT legal" works.

Most aftermarket stuff is gonna meet or exceed the relevant requirements but nobody's gonna stick their neck out there saying it does. But that doesn't matter.


It probably is. There's a spec brake hoses have to meet. It's pressure, resistance to failure when stretched, a couple other things. I don't remember the exact numbers but I remember reading it and thinking to myself "wow, this is stupid, a fucking braided sleeve over a heater core hose would probably pass this". :laughing:

There's probably a spec for hard lines too but IDK what it is.
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I know exactly how it fucking works there's a legal spec the parts have to meet. I don't give two shits Wether the JIC or AN works. Majority of the Are not approved. I'm a millwright I fucking get fluid Dynamics and how hoses work.
 
Winchested said:
I know exactly how it fucking works there's a legal spec the parts have to meet. I don't give two shits Wether the JIC or AN works. Majority of the Are not approved. I'm a millwright I fucking get fluid Dynamics and how hoses work.
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There is no approval process you fucking dolt.

It's up to the manufacturers to test shit themselves and say "yup, good to go". That takes time and money and shit like AN plumbing is low enough margin that nobody is gonna run tests on the shipping container full of hoses they bought from China.
 
I'm not even sure modification parts that aren't attempting to be like for like replacements need to meet DOT standards for stuff like brake hoses and full hydro steering. The fed rules are all about manufacture and sale, they don't regulate what can operate on the roads except for interstate commercial stuff. I think as an owner/driver you're only bound by state law (which may in some cases reference federal law) that says you can't drive garbage with an inoperable brake system.

Emissions bullshit notwithstanding, obviously.
 
There was a bounty on the old board for someone to actually produce a citiation for non-DOT "approved" beadlocks and no one could ever prove that anyone had actually ever been cited for it or even turn up an actual law against beadlocks.

Do we need a bounty for brake lines now? :laughing:

Brake lines are the last thing a cop is ever going to look at on a rig.

As far as AN fittings go, they can be and are on DOT lines. The DOT Skyjacker brake lines I used to have on my Bronco II had an AN fitting from the braided steel hose to the banjo block at the caliper. Arse is absolutely correct on how DOT "approval" works. It just means that a manufacture paid to test their parts to be in compliance with whatever relevant spec the DOT has and filed some paperwork.
 
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chaplinfj60 said:
parts stores dont have parts on the shelf that they used to have sometimes finding that OEM brake line at the store is also as long a wait as amazon. not always but something else to think bout
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If you're going the Amazon route a bog standard AN3 stainless braid with clear jacked AN3 brake hose with straight-straight or straigh-90 ends in 12/18/24 length is far more likely to be at a nearby warehouse than an obscure brake hose for a specific vehicle.

Another plus top AN is that one spare can cover all locations.

Parts store can probably get a specific brake hose to more remote locations overnight but you'll pay for that.
 
so in building the new buggy I am pondering this same thing. I know some guys have run sections of braided, all the same or similar lengths so you can buy a spare section or 2 and replace any line on the truck.
 
i would do the an braided shit all day long. this shit is so simple to use... all kinds of lengths, less connections to have possible leaks at. damn, you can go from MC to the TEE on the front axle with one hose damn near. no hard line then change to rubber then back to deal with...
and if your around race car shops you can walk in and get these off the shelfs. but again thats my 2 cents
 
'84 Bronco II said:
There was a bounty on the old board for someone to actually produce a citiation for non-DOT "approved" beadlocks and no one could ever prove that anyone had actually ever been cited for it or even turn up an actual law against beadlocks.

Do we need a bounty for brake lines now? :laughing:

Brake lines are the last thing a cop is ever going to look at on a rig.

As far as AN fittings go, they can and are on DOT lines. The DOT Skyjacker brake lines I used to have on my Bronco II had an AN fitting from the braided steel hose to the banjo block at the caliper. Arse is absolutely correct on how DOT "approval" works. It just means that a manufacture paid to test their parts to be in compliance with whatever relevant spec the DOT has and filed some paperwork.
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Yup. If a cop is to the point where they are verifying if your brake lines are DOT approved roadside, your basically fucked anyway.
 
chaplinfj60 said:
i would do the an braided shit all day long. this shit is so simple to use... all kinds of lengths, less connections to have possible leaks at. damn, you can go from MC to the TEE on the front axle with one hose damn near. no hard line then change to rubber then back to deal with...
and if your around race car shops you can walk in and get these off the shelfs. but again thats my 2 cents
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this is my thought :smokin:
 
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