Dont Ever Buy A Dodge - 93 D250 12valve

[KungFooMASTA]

I need a winch truck like this for my yard. Is that a homebrew setup you made? It's fucking awesome

Its my dads old winch/welding truck he used it in the oilfield. He bought it from an auction and it only had one pto drive Tulsa winch on it. He added an electric Warn 12k for the hook and it now uses the Tulsa for just the poles. It had a bunch of toolboxes on it but he took them off and made the welder sit lower in the bed and the oxy acetylene bottles sit down in the bed vertically on the front pass side. It is handy as can be. His next winch truck he built from scratch it is almost the same but it had two electric winchs, montezuma toolboxes and a rolling tailboard. He sold that truck and it was used at several oilfield companys they sold the truck and put that bed on other trucks afterwards it is still around somewhere.

I dont think I could live without a winch truck.

 

[KungFooMASTA]

The next winch truck my dad built was an 05 Powerstroke F350 6spd 4x4 excab Cab and chassis. I seen him lift things heavy enough you could see light under the tires.

 

[KungFooMASTA]

I found something for this thing. This was supposed to be my winter project this year but I got a girlfriend instead and have forgot about most of my junk. My friend found a clean 05+ Ford D60 for a good deal. Now I need to figure out what to do about matching wheel patterns. Should I find a matching rear axle or get the hubs redrilled. Not real big on wheel adapters on anything that hauls.

 

[u2slow]

I have that diff too

I'm thinking of adapting it to 8x6.5" and run stock dodge wheels with the big offset. Don't like spacers/adapters on the rear... that's where its suddenly 2tons in the bed (gravel, firewood, roofing, etc.)

EDIT: your rear diff is 65" wide and that ford one is about 71". I'm planning for a 70-72" wide rear (dodge D80).

 

[Dan]

EDIT: your rear diff is 65" wide and that ford one is about 71". I'm planning for a 70-72" wide rear (dodge D80).

See post 48 & 49.

 

[KungFooMASTA]

Definitely a Dana 80, gonna be 35 spline and around 70" or so wms. It would match up real well with a 05+ Dana 60, just need to redrill the 60 unit bearings to 8x6.5. And pick up an axle, you could probably trade one of the front axles you already have.

Would I redrill the rotors too or is there some that would bolt right on?

 

[Dan]

I think you can get away with reaming them, I would probably drill them. I've never done it, I plan on using a lightweight brake kit from busted knuckle since I'm not using the axle in a 1 ton truck.

 

[u2slow]

See post 48 & 49.

Righto - forgot/missed it.

Would I redrill the rotors too or is there some that would bolt right on?

Its been discussed before... drill the same holes out to 3/4" and they slip over 8x6.5".

 

[YotaAtieToo]

Guess I missed this somehow. This is og pbb tow rig shit, making some useful out a pile of parts.

Seems like a lot of work to put into a 1st gen dodge, but maybe I missed something skimming. I'd have just thrown the Ford D60 under there with leafs since it's an old truck anyway. I'm putting a 12v in my 97 F350 CCLB and probably should have just done an 05-10 SD, but I'm dumb and am kinda attached to the truck.

As far as power, don't listen to some of these clowns, a ve 12v can make plenty of power, definitely enough to hurt that 4500 fuel pin, 3 or 4k rpm gov spring and a better turbo. I used a he351cw of a 04.5-07 cummins, I liked it enough that I just got one for my p pump cummins swap also. The little ve with stock injectors made enough fuel to spin that thing to 52 psi of boost I would have used a ve pump in this swap no problem, but I got the p pump donor for cheap.

 

[KungFooMASTA]

I got the axle home now. It has 3.73 gears and the smaller ujoints but that is fine I dont plan on offroading it too hard.

A friend of mine that has a 93-4 idi Turbo diesel dually 4x4 5 speed daycab I was going to buy called me saying he was selling his house and if I still wanted that truck I said yes of course. He also has a 95 f250 Powerstoke 5spd 4x4 excblb with a kp60 up front. I said how about a package deal with both trucks he said hell yeah so the Dodge might be on a back burner till after I get the Powerstroke back in condition it has been sitting for a couple years and he said last time he started it it had a engine light he said it might be the cam sensor. I dont know much about powerstrokes even though my dad always had them, his never needed much work, but I guess I will find out.

 

[YotaAtieToo]

I got the axle home now. It has 3.73 gears and the smaller ujoints but that is fine I dont plan on offroading it too hard.

A friend of mine that has a 93-4 idi Turbo diesel dually 4x4 5 speed daycab I was going to buy called me saying he was selling his house and if I still wanted that truck I said yes of course. He also has a 95 f250 Powerstoke 5spd 4x4 excblb with a kp60 up front. I said how about a package deal with both trucks he said hell yeah so the Dodge might be on a back burner till after I get the Powerstroke back in condition it has been sitting for a couple years and he said last time he started it it had a engine light he said it might be the cam sensor. I dont know much about powerstrokes even though my dad always had them, his never needed much work, but I guess I will find out.

You thinking about dropping the 13v in one of the fords?

Everyone said 7.3 cam sensors go out all the time and to keep one in your glove box. Mine has 340k and never had an issue with it. Out of the 2 dozen or so people I know with them, I've never heard of a factory one going out.

I lost an idm once and it killed the whole driver side bank, drove home 80 miles on 4 cyls.

Lots of 7.3 guys will just hear a symptom and say "oh it's the xxx"

If you need parts, my 97 7.3 is coming out and everything thing besides the block was running fine. So they would be good for diagnostic. Only thing spoken for is the edm.

Common issues are valve cover gasket/harness and Injector o rings. If you think it's a runner, I'd replace that stuff and the flow plugs, it's cheap and super easy.

 

[KungFooMASTA]

You thinking about dropping the 13v in one of the fords?

Everyone said 7.3 cam sensors go out all the time and to keep one in your glove box. Mine has 340k and never had an issue with it. Out of the 2 dozen or so people I know with them, I've never heard of a factory one going out.

I lost an idm once and it killed the whole driver side bank, drove home 80 miles on 4 cyls.

Lots of 7.3 guys will just hear a symptom and say "oh it's the xxx"

If you need parts, my 97 7.3 is coming out and everything thing besides the block was running fine. So they would be good for diagnostic. Only thing spoken for is the edm.

Common issues are valve cover gasket/harness and Injector o rings. If you think it's a runner, I'd replace that stuff and the flow plugs, it's cheap and super easy.

My friend said once I own a 7.3 and read up on them I will learn all kinds of things.

I dont know yet. If I put a 12 valve in anything it will be the winch truck. The idi doesnt have a title and I pretty much bought it to make the winch truck 4x4 and if the engine is rebuildable or not will determine what I do there. He says the idi is tired and has low oil pressure.

 

[YotaAtieToo]

I've had my 97 7.3 for about 10 years, it's been a great truck, 140k miles I put on it doing all kinds of different truck things. Never left me stranded and up untill a few months ago never needed more than minor repairs.

I guess you have to keep an eye on the sca's in the coolant or it can erode the block. No idea how a 1k lb chunk of iron is that sensitive, but mine has a leak between the water jacket and cyl wall. I was really on the fence about the swap, Trailtamer sent me a $1500 p pump like 2 hours from me and I jumped on it. I still was on the fence, but made the leap. 7.3 is great, but 12v is better.

 

[KungFooMASTA]

I've had my 97 7.3 for about 10 years, it's been a great truck, 140k miles I put on it doing all kinds of different truck things. Never left me stranded and up untill a few months ago never needed more than minor repairs.

I guess you have to keep an eye on the sca's in the coolant or it can erode the block. No idea how a 1k lb chunk of iron is that sensitive, but mine has a leak between the water jacket and cyl wall. I was really on the fence about the swap, Trailtamer sent me a $1500 p pump like 2 hours from me and I jumped on it. I still was on the fence, but made the leap. 7.3 is great, but 12v is better.

I knew the 7.3 idis have thin blocks the Powerstrokes do too? I always thought they were completely different blocks.

 

[YotaAtieToo]

I knew the 7.3 idis have thin blocks the Powerstrokes do too? I always thought they were completely different blocks.

No idea, I mean it lasted 340k miles of good use.

I don't think the blocks share anything but displacement numbers and bell pattern.

 

[KungFooMASTA]

This thing would randomly stop charging. Dodge and their infinite wisdom deciding to use the computer to kick the alternator on when they dont even understand the basics of electricity is beyond me.

What is really wrong is the crank position sensor or wiring isn’t working. Again, Dodge why do you have electronic things on a mechanical engine. You dont do electricity dont try acting like you do.

So how do you fix a Dodge that doesn’t charge. You put a GM alternator on it. I ordered one and thought I got a one wire but evidently I got a 3 wire. Oh well I can replace it with a one wire later.

I didnt want to cut up the factory harness or mounts and I wanted to be able to get a new GM alt and put it on without modifications.

All I did was make an extra mount out of angle iron and swapped the pulleys. So simple. No skill involved at all. It uses the factory belt and tensioner. I stacked some washers to get it in there straight, I will make a proper spacer later but this worked to see if it worked. I still need to wire in a lightbulb to excite it but it works now by just arcing the exciter wire to the pos terminal on the back of it.

Why fix it right when you can get rid of what is wrong?

 

[IowaOffRoad]

You can wire up the old Chrysler electronic voltage regulator to the newer alternators if you don’t want to re-engineer it.
I know you are wanting to hate on dodge, but the only fault they had IMO was the wiring was sized only just big enough in some applications and their refusal to adopt volt meters over amp meters way past when it stopped making sense.
You want electrical issues? See, Ford, circa 1970-1999

 

[TRINDU]

Yep, external regulator is pretty well documented. But definitely hack fuck a 12si on

Also, crank sensor is for the auto trans, might explain the OD problem. Engine will run all day without it. Might just be aligned wrong. Spacing is .050" off the balancer, or a credit card and business card stacked together. Or NV swap it.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

There are internal regulators for the dodge/Chrysler Cummins alternators as well. I've been using one since the external Chrysler vr setup shit the bed soon after my swap. Only had one internal vr fail, and one alt with the vr shit the bearings out, in nine years.

 

[IowaOffRoad]

There are internal regulators for the dodge/Chrysler Cummins alternators as well. I've been using one since the external Chrysler vr setup shit the bed soon after my swap. Only had one internal vr fail, and one alt with the vr shit the bearings out, in nine years.

Haven't heard of this, I'm interested. You got more info?

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Haven't heard of this, I'm interested. You got more info?

Buy the Transpo IN8315 voltage regulator:

Chrysler, Jeep Conversion Regulator

Voltage Regulator Conversion for Chrysler, Jeep, Cummins 1-wire Denso Alternator - IN8315

www.aspwholesale.com

Looks like this:

Instructions:

In short, the tiny VR shown here gets wired in, and all you have to do is put a IGN switched power to the terminal with the orange wire, and hook up the battery lead. Works mint. Please excuse the potato quality photos from early 2015.

Original thread from comp diesel:

Cummins/ Chrysler Denso 1 Wire alternator conversion.

Simple conservation what only required me to remove the rear tin cover on the alternator. 5 minutes at the most to install once the alternator is removed. Cost was only $28 with shipping and eliminates the need of the PCM for charging. Regulator comes with the instructions. Regulator is set...

www.competitiondiesel.com

Where I found it on 4BTSwaps:

Dodge Alternator Internal Regulator Conversion

www.4btswaps.com

My own build thread on IH8mud:

Builds - Moonshine - A Build Thread

I didn't have a trac-bar with the regular 62 leaves and I know I had bad axle wrap. I don't know how it'll be in low range yet, but I'll take a video to see. I'm kicking myself for not taking a video on the street with the old rear suspension, but I use to have real bad axle wrap on the street...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[IowaOffRoad]

Buy the Transpo IN8315 voltage regulator:

Chrysler, Jeep Conversion Regulator

Voltage Regulator Conversion for Chrysler, Jeep, Cummins 1-wire Denso Alternator - IN8315

www.aspwholesale.com

Looks like this:

Instructions:

In short, the tiny VR shown here gets wired in, and all you have to do is put a IGN switched power to the terminal with the orange wire, and hook up the battery lead. Works mint. Please excuse the potato quality photos from early 2015.

Original thread from comp diesel:

Cummins/ Chrysler Denso 1 Wire alternator conversion.

Simple conservation what only required me to remove the rear tin cover on the alternator. 5 minutes at the most to install once the alternator is removed. Cost was only $28 with shipping and eliminates the need of the PCM for charging. Regulator comes with the instructions. Regulator is set...

www.competitiondiesel.com

Where I found it on 4BTSwaps:

Dodge Alternator Internal Regulator Conversion

www.4btswaps.com

My own build thread on IH8mud:

Builds - Moonshine - A Build Thread

I didn't have a trac-bar with the regular 62 leaves and I know I had bad axle wrap. I don't know how it'll be in low range yet, but I'll take a video to see. I'm kicking myself for not taking a video on the street with the old rear suspension, but I use to have real bad axle wrap on the street...

forum.ih8mud.com

Like it!

 

[KungFooMASTA]

Buy the Transpo IN8315 voltage regulator:

Chrysler, Jeep Conversion Regulator

Voltage Regulator Conversion for Chrysler, Jeep, Cummins 1-wire Denso Alternator - IN8315

www.aspwholesale.com

Looks like this:

Instructions:

In short, the tiny VR shown here gets wired in, and all you have to do is put a IGN switched power to the terminal with the orange wire, and hook up the battery lead. Works mint. Please excuse the potato quality photos from early 2015.

Original thread from comp diesel:

Cummins/ Chrysler Denso 1 Wire alternator conversion.

Simple conservation what only required me to remove the rear tin cover on the alternator. 5 minutes at the most to install once the alternator is removed. Cost was only $28 with shipping and eliminates the need of the PCM for charging. Regulator comes with the instructions. Regulator is set...

www.competitiondiesel.com

Where I found it on 4BTSwaps:

Dodge Alternator Internal Regulator Conversion

www.4btswaps.com

My own build thread on IH8mud:

Builds - Moonshine - A Build Thread

I didn't have a trac-bar with the regular 62 leaves and I know I had bad axle wrap. I don't know how it'll be in low range yet, but I'll take a video to see. I'm kicking myself for not taking a video on the street with the old rear suspension, but I use to have real bad axle wrap on the street...

forum.ih8mud.com

Yep I put one on and it didn’t work. Changed the wires like they said and still didn’t. Then I read were its very common to get ones that didn’t work. Instead of wasting my time on another one I hacked a 12si on.

 

[KungFooMASTA]

Yep, external regulator is pretty well documented. But definitely hack fuck a 12si on

Also, crank sensor is for the auto trans, might explain the OD problem. Engine will run all day without it. Might just be aligned wrong. Spacing is .050" off the balancer, or a credit card and business card stacked together. Or NV swap it.

Yep I am going to fix it one of these days. I dont use this truck much so its not top of my priorities now.

I planned on nv swapping it if I keep it. I have the nv but not sure if I want to keep this thing or not.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Yep I put one on and it didn’t work. Changed the wires like they said and still didn’t. Then I read were its very common to get ones that didn’t work. Instead of wasting my time on another one I hacked a 12si on.

Hasn't happened to me 🤷‍♂️

 

[rockyota83]

Buy the Transpo IN8315 voltage regulator:

Chrysler, Jeep Conversion Regulator

Voltage Regulator Conversion for Chrysler, Jeep, Cummins 1-wire Denso Alternator - IN8315

www.aspwholesale.com

Looks like this:

Instructions:

ive been running one of these for almost 10yrs now