Dodge Ram front axle tech in CC

[Eric]

I have an '08 Ram 3500 CTD 4x4 with 35's and the 9.25 front axle. The rig currently has about 100k on the clock. A year or so ago I bought Timken unit bearings, Spicer life u-joints, and EMF ball joints with the intention of doing pre-emptive maintenance. Well, the maintenance never happened then last night one of the front wheel bearing smoked (video below). Never made any noise, pulled out of the driveway and every thing seemed fine; 15 miles down the highway and the wheel about falls off.

Time to install those parts I have on the shelf. When pulling the unit bearings I notice that the rig already has what appears to be rebuildable aftermarket ball joints installed by the PO. Pictures below. Does anybody know what brand these ball joints might be? I compared to online photos of of Dynatrac, Synergy, and Carli (which are not rebuildable) and none match exactly. Dynatracs look the closest. I'm probably going to install the EMF's anyway but would like to know what is in there now for reference.

 

[Crashhawk]

I'm no help on the ball joints, except to say you'll like the emfs.

I'll add, a free spin kit adds a lot of peace of mind. I caught three unit bearings before they failed, two others I wasn't as lucky. Left me stranded in fairly shitty situations (is there a good time though). Can't say enough good things about the Yukon kit.

 

[total newb]

Look like the dynatrac bj.
a rebuild kit and the tool will be less than $75 if you even need the kit.

Free spin every dodge or face the wrath

 

[Johann]

Look like the dynatrac bj.
a rebuild kit and the tool will be less than $75 if you even need the kit.

Free spin every dodge or face the wrath

Funny I was just watching an old XOR episode where they did that for a viewer in his driveway. Any idea what the free spin kit runs roughly?

 

[total newb]

Depends on how much you want to spend
dynatracs are all ive fucked with and theyre 1900-2200 ish last i saw. jewkons are significantly cheaper. Just watch what you buy because alot are cheaper because theyre not complete kits.

 

[Eric]

Thanks for replies. Ball joints are tight so fawk it i will keep running them. Already have the unit bearings so I will run them for the moment but free spin kit is being added to the shopping list. Looks like the options include Dynatrac, Solid, and Yukon; all more or less around $1,800 depending on hub option.

 

[Crashhawk]

I'm running the Yukon kit. Came complete minus ujoints. Nothing but good luck to this point, about 50k miles.

 

[Jes]

I have the Solid Axle kit on mine. Over 40,000 miles on it, it really does help with NVH and takes some load off the steering.

 

[DirtRoads]

I have the Solid Axle kit on mine. Over 40,000 miles on it, it really does help with NVH and takes some load off the steering.

What is NVH?


Do any of you eliminate the center axle disconnect when adding the free spin kit? It has been on my mind recently. In a perfect world I would do all of that and also re gear to a 5.13 at the same time but cha mawfucking ching.

 

[Benny]

No disconnect on an AAM axle.

 

[Benny]

What makes the spyntech kit a "shorty". The hubs don't look any shorter to me

 

[Aisin]

What is NVH?


Do any of you eliminate the center axle disconnect when adding the free spin kit? It has been on my mind recently. In a perfect world I would do all of that and also re gear to a 5.13 at the same time but cha mawfucking ching.

Noise vibration harmonics.

 

[DirtRoads]

No disconnect on an AAM axle.

Mine is a 16. I swear I thought it had one, if not that's a win.

 

[total newb]

Might have the disconnect swaybar.

 

[TRINDU]

Might have the disconnect swaybar.

Nope, 13+ ram went back to that horse fuck idea. It's now called "front axle disconnect" and is electric instead of vacuum.

this guy is just redrilling ford hubs. From what I can tell 99-04 works on 00-09 ram, and 05+ works on 10+. but is being a halfass and adding spacers instead of milling the hub face for dodge wheels.

http://therammaninc.com/products/sho...rsion-Kits-150

 

[Eric]

I ended up not replacing the ball joints. One of the unit bearings also did not want to come out without a fight.. Finally managed to air chisel it out but fawked the knuckle pretty good.

The truck is in great shape for '08. Just under 100k on the motor, 6 speed manual, basically all the body panels are less than two years old due to rolling down a hill through some trees. Frame has a few spots starting to get rusty. This spring I plan to lift the body then blast and paint the frame. I was planning source a replacement front axle housing that could be prepped, painted, and outfitted with free spin kit ahead of time so that I could just roll it under when the time comes. Strangely, its been a bitch trying to find one at the junkyard. According to the interchanges there is something unique about '07.5 - '09. Does anybody know what is different or if I can bolt in an earlier '02 - '06 9.25?

 

[2big bronco]

Just a thought and I dont know if it's a good one...

I tack welded some diagonal bracing between the factory links and sway bar ,and then carefully torched out the welds cutting all the bracetry loose from the factory front axle housing and rolled the front axle out from under the truck. I then bolted the wheels to my 79 dana 60 I had and rolled it right under and welded everything to the new axle.

With the price, cost, and strength of 05+ ford 60s it may be cheaper and easier in the long run to just swap to a non retarded front axle

 

[Eric]

. . . With the price, cost, and strength of 05+ ford 60s it may be cheaper and easier in the long run to just swap to a non retarded front axle

I have given this a couple thoughts. Not ruled out. Dodge going to the 9.25 was dumb for sure.

 

[TrailTamer]

I don't know what year range, but may want to look into ~2015+ Ram front axle, or find out whether any older year models their steering knuckles will fit. 2015+ is when they finally fixed the steering problem via drag link and tie rod 100% independent to each others.

 

[TRINDU]

Strangely, its been a bitch trying to find one at the junkyard. According to the interchanges there is something unique about '07.5 - '09. Does anybody know what is different or if I can bolt in an earlier '02 - '06 9.25?

I dont recall any difference in the axle. 03-08 are all the same. 2009 throws me off. Then I know 10+ "4th gen" are different knuckles. Like comparing 99-04 to 05+

 

[Eric]

I don't know what year range, but may want to look into ~2015+ Ram front axle, or find out whether any older year models their steering knuckles will fit. 2015+ is when they finally fixed the steering problem via drag link and tie rod 100% independent to each others.

I already converted steering from Y to T. A couple years ago pulling out of coffee shop into traffic all of a sudden no steering. One of the ends had broken right off. Called the dealer and they were like yea, this is a known issue and we have a crossover steering upgrade for that. I was like, thanks for letting us owners know that our fawking steering might fall apart! Apparently no recall or anything. Just a "known issue".

 

[Elwenil]

I already converted steering from Y to T. A couple years ago pulling out of coffee shop into traffic all of a sudden no steering. One of the ends had broken right off. Called the dealer and they were like yea, this is a known issue and we have a crossover steering upgrade for that. I was like, thanks for letting us owners know that our fawking steering might fall apart! Apparently no recall or anything. Just a "known issue".

Falling apart isn't the issue, a ridiculous amount of slack and wandering is the issue.

 

[Eric]

Falling apart isn't the issue, a ridiculous amount of slack and wandering is the issue.

I think a lot of the slack comes from a joint in the steering column. Replaced two tiny little bushings with parts from EMF and it made a world of difference.

 

[TrailTamer]

I think a lot of the slack comes from a joint in the steering column. Replaced two tiny little bushings with parts from EMF and it made a world of difference.

still doesnt fix the design flaw in your T steering.

this is the 2013+ steering. Its neither T or Y steering

 

[Eric]

She's tighter than a nun's **** now!

 

[azdirt3.0]

Nope, 13+ ram went back to that horse fuck idea. It's now called "front axle disconnect" and is electric instead of vacuum.

this guy is just redrilling ford hubs. From what I can tell 99-04 works on 00-09 ram, and 05+ works on 10+. but is being a halfass and adding spacers instead of milling the hub face for dodge wheels.

http://therammaninc.com/products/sho...rsion-Kits-150

Do you know what the bolt pattern size is for the AAM and the 05+ 60? Interesting idea for the 13+ trucks

 

[TRINDU]

Do you know what the bolt pattern size is for the AAM and the 05+ 60? Interesting idea for the 13+ trucks

Mounting pattern and bore for the knuckle? I dont have the axles on hand. Personally I'd just order both on amazon and return them after putting a mic all over. I might donit for the tech if I get bored, but I have no interest in 2010+ ram trucks.

Once again, I'm betting youd have to redrill the pattern and take down the hub face for ram wheels.

 

[TRINDU]

Do you know what the bolt pattern size is for the AAM and the 05+ 60? Interesting idea for the 13+ trucks

according to rock auto a 05+ Ford UB has a register/hub pilot of 140mm.

a 2011 dodge has a register of 140mm. 2012+ has is 120mm. so it look like a 05+ wont work in a ram without some machine work.

Flange offset:
Ford- 46.5mm
Ram- 56.3mm

factory dodge rotor might work, but the wheel pilot is 100mm bigger on a ford too. So just enough different to not work without dedication.

 

[azdirt3.0]

according to rock auto a 05+ Ford UB has a register/hub pilot of 140mm.

a 2011 dodge has a register of 140mm. 2012+ has is 120mm. so it look like a 05+ wont work in a ram without some machine work.

Flange offset:
Ford- 46.5mm
Ram- 56.3mm

factory dodge rotor might work, but the wheel pilot is 100mm bigger on a ford too. So just enough different to not work without dedication.

Ya that is just enough to be some extra work. Would be too easy if they were the same

 

[Death Row Dave]

Removing a stuck unit bearing can easily be done with a special SnapOn tool for the project . It can also be done with an 18 MM socket and a short extension . Simply loosen the bolts and install the tool or socket between the flange head and the axle housing and use the trucks power steering pressure to force the unit bearing out of its bore . It has always worked easily for me , this way . I learned this after beating for 3 days to remove one years ago . A neighborhood kid saw me wailing away . Stops by and says let me show you how to get that out easily . I’m telling you in 30 seconds it was free and easy as starting the engine and turning the steering wheel . I’m like man was I really that stupid not to thing about the easy way to remove the stuck bearing .