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do my king bolts loosen up easier on single ended ram vs double

My setup is like yours but the arm is above the tie rod. It's never come loose, I check them every couple trips but it's been a few years since it went together.
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Only way to fly. Single shear has the bolt head seeing twisting force and additional flex on the shank, which is slowly loosening shit.
 
Buy some torque checker paste Amazon.com

Before you spend time and money put some torque checker paste on the knuckle to arm mating line to ensure that the arms are not pushing the bolts around causing them to stretch and wiggle loose.

Then each bolt at the arms. Take a rid and get out and check the paste often. You will get a far better idea of what you did at each obstacle and what made what loosen up. Other than that you are pissing in the wind.

Your fix just may be a new fresh set of bolts with the proper grade (has to do with more than strength) installed properly. Nordloc washers would not be a bad idea at al. I have found a few instances where the proper hardware would elongate slightly more than what should be allowed once in use. A Nordloc style washer solves this issue perfectly to absorb that elongation. Typically only several thou greater.


My take on it. Get rid of the bolts and low grade washers. It is the Wrong hardware for the application.

Bolts are to clamp. Other than clamping together, They will not help retain mating surface locations beyond the frictional resistance of the two parts they are clamping tight. In this case you have the knuckle and steering arm that can slip, from that slippage your bolts can get worked loose. Well actually they stretch till they yield. then they will snap if they are still clamped tight. If you still wanna use bolts to clamp it then you must key the arm to the knuckle.

A swap to studs with Acorn nuts and the arms machined to accept the acorn nuts would be best. This would help out. Keyed would be best though. An acorn nut and stud will handle the required clamping force yet at the same time be far superior holding up to side shear loads than a bolt with washer setup would.
 
it is acorn nut and stud. they are brand new this summer.

i did get that paste because that will be a good indicator for sure. maybe the threads in the knuckle are just about worn out. i say a vid this weekend of daves rig the bus from 2010 where my knuckles were being used. they came off this dana 60 i believe.

maybe i need to think of another set. or figure out a key way or something.
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so your saying putting the arm on top will help?
So that the bolt isn't directly on the rotating rod-end? Ayep. Had a similar issue with a trailing arm on my desert buggy (loosely VW suspension). Driver's side trailing arm pivot bolt kept coming loose because hard hits were putting a lot of load on it while rotating it counter-clockwise. Made it double-shear, bolt is always tight.
 
Oh they are Dave's old knuckles!? Yeah you may want to replace them as they had a hard life before you! Hahaha.

That was a fun weekend with slab rock flooded. Share the link.
 
Oh they are Dave's old knuckles!? Yeah you may want to replace them as they had a hard life before you! Hahaha.

That was a fun weekend with slab rock flooded. Share the link.
so how did it flood, was this before there were a bunch of erosion gullies created on the sides... or just that much rain.
 
safety wire

safety wire is to keep stuff from falling out, not to keep it tight.

looking things over again, if he pulls the studs and measures them against a new one he will find it has stretched from the tie rod trying to peel the steering arm off. multiple mentions of getting it inside the upper and lower arms should solve the problem.
 
maybe the threads in the knuckle are just about worn out. i say a vid this weekend of daves rig the bus from 2010 where my knuckles were being used. they came off this dana 60 i believe.

My current knuckles have been in use by me since 2007, one hole was heli-coiled then. Unless the holes are bitched up letting the stud wiggle a quality stud with some lock-tite, nut and good taper should be fine with a properly setup double sheer. Don't get me wrong you can break anything pushing stuff around with your steering but 90% of use won't have issue with that setup.

I'd say pull it apart and check everything. Look for deformed studs, not straight, stretched threads ect. Loose fitting studs, damage in the knuckle studs holes and it all looks good check your arms good for wallowed out holes. Make sure the stud threads all the way into the arm too.
 
so last night i did put the green paint stuff on the nut and stud, we will see what comes loose and hopefully when next week is the last run of the year unless something pops up. i think i am ordering a new set of knuckles and Cs this black friday. and go from there.

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Figured out why they loosen. I had broken bolts that were stretching to yield. And they all failed today.

The fox. Drill out all four. New studs. Then drill a 3/8 hole and drive in two grade 8 bolt shanks.
So 4 new studs and 2 pins.
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Damn, hopefully it wasn't a bitch to get outta the woods. My friend ripped a arm off like that and we ended up redneck to trucking him out on the back of my rig.
 
We fixed it. Took about two hours. Hit the trails for two more days.
One thing I’ve been thinking about is I don’t have an actual steering stop on the knuckle I don’t hit them it’s just too short so my thinking is maybe when I hit my right tire in and the only thing keeping the tire from one all the way to lock is the ram so it’s polling on the arm. Not sure if that makes sense but I’m gonna investigate more.
 
is this where i say i told you so on two accounts?
i learn a bit slow i admit it.... just had the hardest time thinking new studs with only a few rides would go to poo so fast. i should have known. but glad it was just time wasted. not anything else.


anyway solved the issue. .... :beer: or at least i know what causes it.
 
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