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Detroit vs. Torq Locker On Road Comparison?

What's your take on how it behaves on the street (or are you offroad only)?
That is in the front with locking hubs, so cannot help you there. Installing one in my 14 bolt in a week or two, so will report back whenever I get the chance to do that.
 
My experience is only with ARB air lockers for my M35A2 or Air Lockers in my Eaton Axles or the Walter Torque Proportioning Automatic lockers (similar to the Torsen). So, I'm really curious how these does they make them with different engagement thresholds?
They (at least on typical lunch box lockers) engage/disengage via cam teeth on side “gears” (spline to axle shafts) and inner floating pucks (“keyed” via center pin). The floating puck have these small springs pushing their cam teeth against side gears. As the carrier is driven by ring & pinion, the center pin driving floating pucks. By design, both cams cannot be disengaged at same time. In a turn, outside tire wants to spin faster, that side's side gear cams override its floating puck, ratcheting.

There are videos and articles out there you can look up
 
They (at least on typical lunch box lockers) engage/disengage via cam teeth on side “gears” (spline to axle shafts) and inner floating pucks (“keyed” via center pin). The floating puck have these small springs pushing their cam teeth against side gears. As the carrier is driven by ring & pinion, the center pin driving floating pucks. By design, both cams cannot be disengaged at same time. In a turn, outside tire wants to spin faster, that side's side gear cams override its floating puck, ratcheting.

There are videos and articles out there you can look up
That is very cool. Thanks I'll look into them.
 
I really prefer spooled or welded if I am driving on snowy roads. You can somewhat mitigate tire wear by overinflating the rear tires when on road.
 
I have found a detroit or grizzly style full carrier locker always performs better than a luchbox style locker in a rear application.
 
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I have found a detroit or grizzly style full carrier locker always performs better than a luchbox style locker in a rear application.
When you say "perform better"....do you mean in terms of harshness in locking/unlocking on pavement....or something else?
 
When you say "perform better"....do you mean in terms of harshness in locking/unlocking on pavement....or something else?
Yeah sorry i was kinda vauge. The detroit/grizz always operated much smoother on the street, and offroad for that matter vs. a lunchbox style locker. Also the backlash in the manual trans seems to affect these auto lockers more(detroit and luchbox styles) the loading and unloading of the drivetrain makes the locker act even more clunky. If street driving is really important seriously consider a selectable locker, pay once, cry once. If the rig is mainly offroad, spool.
 
Yeah sorry i was kinda vauge. The detroit/grizz always operated much smoother on the street, and offroad for that matter vs. a lunchbox style locker. Also the backlash in the manual trans seems to affect these auto lockers more(detroit and luchbox styles) the loading and unloading of the drivetrain makes the locker act even more clunky. If street driving is really important seriously consider a selectable locker, pay once, cry once. If the rig is mainly offroad, spool.
Hmm....I've had the opposite experience on the street. Lunchboxes were smoother than full carriers.

I have several ARBs currently; great kit. I'm just kind of over them unless I am running a rig with cutting brakes and front dig capability (this build won't have either). I am kind of trying for simplicity on this build and don't want to worry about an air source or potentially having a seal go out....but for snow/ice driving....the ARB does make the most sense and honestly, it's not much more expensive than the outrageous price Detroits are going for now. When they were $6-700 they were a good value...at $9-1100....seems like they are making the jump to an ARB seem pretty affordable.
 
I think the transmission really makes the difference. I have a ramcharger that is automatic with a 14 bolt Detroit. You wouldn’t even no it’s there besides the clunk going from reverse to drive(slop in the locker). My Dakota is a 5 speed with a spooled 14 bolt that is super predictable even in snow just have to be quick with the wheel when it steps out. I put the Detroit in my Dakota to see the difference. Awful, second gear would grind unless absolutely babied. Weird locking and unlocking, so much slop in the driveline it felt like you were dumping clutch all the time. I went back to the spool immediately. The worst things about the spool are embarrassing turns in town and the bind it puts into the chassis with low speed tight turns, makes the suspension hike up . Tire wear doesn’t seem that bad but I only probably put a few thousand miles on it a year.
 
Before I install the locker in my 14 bolt should I just weld it into a spool and sell the locker? I have a 5 speed in my rig and like driving on the highway. Only drive around town and to local trails, trailered most of the time, so not too many miles. Would rather run the spool if it means I chirp tires around corners rather than have it give me crazy handling on the street.
 
I think the transmission really makes the difference. I have a ramcharger that is automatic with a 14 bolt Detroit. You wouldn’t even no it’s there besides the clunk going from reverse to drive(slop in the locker). My Dakota is a 5 speed with a spooled 14 bolt that is super predictable even in snow just have to be quick with the wheel when it steps out. I put the Detroit in my Dakota to see the difference. Awful, second gear would grind unless absolutely babied. Weird locking and unlocking, so much slop in the driveline it felt like you were dumping clutch all the time. I went back to the spool immediately. The worst things about the spool are embarrassing turns in town and the bind it puts into the chassis with low speed tight turns, makes the suspension hike up . Tire wear doesn’t seem that bad but I only probably put a few thousand miles on it a year.
It's hard for me to say just how many miles I'll put on this on the road. I don't expect a ton, but I'd like to drive it occasionally to work or even up to Utah or Colorado from here in AZ. If I do move to MT, then I expect it'll get driven on the road a fair amount in the winter and in that case maybe a spool does make sense.
 
Before I install the locker in my 14 bolt should I just weld it into a spool and sell the locker? I have a 5 speed in my rig and like driving on the highway. Only drive around town and to local trails, trailered most of the time, so not too many miles. Would rather run the spool if it means I chirp tires around corners rather than have it give me crazy handling on the street.
You already bought the locker....if it's the $289 Torq, I'd say install it and try it. It's not like it's hard to install/remove. If you hate it, you put the old parts back in and weld it up and sell the locker. Saw a used one on eBay for $210 this week. $80+time to try it out seems reasonable.
 
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Torq locker in the R160 rear diff of my Subaru. Have yet to drive it, but Subaru owners seem to love them. The clicking drive a dew crazy, but it sure seems many Subaru owners are easily annoyed by noises and harshness.
 
Torq locker in the R160 rear diff of my Subaru. Have yet to drive it, but Subaru owners seem to love them. The clicking drive a dew crazy, but it sure seems many Subaru owners are easily annoyed by noises and harshness.
Have you run other brands/types of auto locker? Curious if you can come back and give a comparison after you drive it.

TIA. :)
 
Have you run other brands/types of auto locker? Curious if you can come back and give a comparison after you drive it.

TIA. :)
Way too many years ago in friends' rigs to give an accurate opinion. I converted the e-locker on our Tacoma to air (vacuum, actually) and it was smooth as can be. If the Torq locker is too problematic, I may snag an R180 and put a selectable ARB in.
 
but it sure seems many Subaru owners are easily annoyed by noises and harshness.
It's comical. They'll complain about minor NVH shit on 20yo cars and then try and replace parts trying to track it down.

I keep trying to convince myself to buy one of those R160 lockers but I kinda wanna do one of these at the same time and have no reason to pull a trans from anything I'd put it in (i.e. the summer car that needs a trans won't be getting one) so I haven't bought one yet.

 
It's comical. They'll complain about minor NVH shit on 20yo cars and then try and replace parts trying to track it down.

I keep trying to convince myself to buy one of those R160 lockers but I kinda wanna do one of these at the same time and have no reason to pull a trans from anything I'd put it in (i.e. the summer car that needs a trans won't be getting one) so I haven't bought one yet.

Doo eeeet.

I keep messing with my tires, making the locker click and grab. At some point, I'll be modifying something for the center and hopefully fitting some kind of locker in front. Damn Crosstrek 6MT prices went up after Subaru's announcement of discontinuing all manual trans manufacturing and all vehicles to have the CVT from here on.
 
Before I install the locker in my 14 bolt should I just weld it into a spool and sell the locker? I have a 5 speed in my rig and like driving on the highway. Only drive around town and to local trails, trailered most of the time, so not too many miles. Would rather run the spool if it means I chirp tires around corners rather than have it give me crazy handling on the street
Yes, weld er up.
 
Damn Crosstrek 6MT prices went up after Subaru's announcement of discontinuing all manual trans manufacturing and all vehicles to have the CVT from here on.
Boo..... Love manuals. Too bad they are about extinct.
 
Boo..... Love manuals. Too bad they are about extinct.
Yup. Big ol' middle fanger to Subaru. Autos are lame enough as it is.

One guy told me it's a bad idea to put a Torq Locker in the center. They're stupid easy to modify. Suppose I could even make one selectable if I wanted.
 
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