What is so fucking super about those?
theyre parts for a super 60 and listed under it on their website
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D60 low vs hi front axle and ratios - the same old topic - sorta
- Thread starter white-rhino
- Start date
theyre parts for a super 60 and listed under it on their website
arse_sidewards
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theyre parts for a super 60 and listed under it on their website
The newest Super 60s, (2011+? 2017+? I forget the year) run a short fat pinion and the gears don't (so far as we know) interchange with the older ones.
Bebop
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What is so fucking super about those?
I have never seen 35sp pinion Dana60 gearsets. That would be a first.
Since the pinion is what breaks in a properly set up Dana60 (from my experience), this would be a substantial upgrade.
white-rhino
Older than dirt
And that will probably be the weak link of doing the D70 conversion. But at least the teeth will be stronger.
redneckengineered
Angry
The stupid 60 rabbit hole does so deep and I wish I had never been down it. In the meantime any hillbilly can crank out a 14b front for less money over a weekend and have a stronger axle with readily available parts.
YotaAtieToo
Thick skull
theyre parts for a super 60 and listed under it on their website
Any hp60 gearset is compatible, the "super" 60 gears are 10" though.
Mostly just being a dick
Pretty cool though.
white-rhino
Older than dirt
Well I'm in the rabbit hole now and at this time I see the 14b conversion way more work than swapping out a R&P. (plus some grinding & adding the load bolt) I'm more of a technical driver than bouncer so with luck I will be OK. But the 14b will be in the back of my mind.
Bebop
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I built a front 14 bolt for my buggy and encouraged a lot of people to do the same.
But if you're on a budget and can make a stock housing 05+ D60 work in your rig, I don't think they are a bad option. Having a 35sp pinion gearset available is a nice upgrade.
redneckengineered
Angry
Maybe but would you rather spend a ton of time knocking all the casting BS off your D60 or lop the knuckles off and transfer them onto a 14 bolt and end up with a better product. Find a 4" housing and you only have to retube one side. The money is probably a wash or close to it at the end of the day.
Bebop
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I don't know if you have ever actually lopped the C's off of a 05+ and installed them on a tube and retubed and housing yourself.
I just did exactly what you're saying, this weekend. On a 4" tube 14 bolt too. Which mean that you also need to bore the C's to 4".
It is significantly more work than knocking the casting down from the pumpkin of a 05+ and requires a lot more tooling (lathe and press, mostly).
I did all of this work because the 14 bolt is a better axle IMO, but the 60 still has it's place.
When it comes to the money. if you salvage the outers off of a 05+ axle, that means you had the buy the damn thing in the first place. So you already have a dana60. It is absolutely more expensive to build a custom 14 bolt if your rig will accept a 05+ stock housing.
If you have to build a custom housing no matter what, the price difference makes the custom 60 way less appealing. But that's not what I'm talking about.
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redneckengineered
Angry
I have not and would not take that on personally, wasn't really advocating that. You can get it done around here for a couple hundred plus the tubing. Might be a few hundred more expensive at the end of the day but you'd have to run the numbers between D60 parts and 14b parts, IDK what those 35 spline gears run, then do you need a special yoke? IDK.
Bebop
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That's exactly my point.
A 14 bolt is a better axle. No questions.
But if you're on a budget and are trying to make a 60 work, it's a nice thing to see that Yukon is showing up with a 35sp pinion gearset.
Any hp60 gearset is compatible, the "super" 60 gears are 10" though.
Mostly just being a dick
Pretty cool though.
not on yukons website they arent
feel free to go over the super 60 parts list and look at all the different gears and the specs on them
redneckengineered
Angry
https://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/p9...n_replacement_yoke_for_dana_60_with_a_13.html
or
https://www.amazon.com/Yukon-YY-D60...Differential/dp/B00EHN57EK?tag=91812054244-20
There goes your cost savings on a Chineesium yoke. I also didn't see any other options like 1410 or 1480. But I didn't look that hard. Just saying sometimes it all looks good on paper, Jana kit, load bolts, 35 spline R&P, etc. But when you finally get into it, you end up saying damn I should have just built a 14. I'm not riding a high horse, BTDT brother.
or
https://www.amazon.com/Yukon-YY-D60...Differential/dp/B00EHN57EK?tag=91812054244-20
There goes your cost savings on a Chineesium yoke. I also didn't see any other options like 1410 or 1480. But I didn't look that hard. Just saying sometimes it all looks good on paper, Jana kit, load bolts, 35 spline R&P, etc. But when you finally get into it, you end up saying damn I should have just built a 14. I'm not riding a high horse, BTDT brother.
supposedly the 35 spline pinion d60 yukon gears will take a ford 9" 35 spline pinion yoke
the point of the 35 spline d60 gears imo are for people that already have a built d60 and want an upgrade, not for guys starting from scratch, if you need something that strong and starting from scratch youre definitely better off starting with a 14b or d80 or a gearworks ford 10" diff
redneckengineered
Angry
I was wondering that. That would definitely open up options. And I totally agree. If I had a billion dollars into a bling 60 build already the 35 spline gears would be worth a shot.
white-rhino
Older than dirt
If it was just lopping off the C’s, I agree. But truss, ram mount, link mounts, shock mounts, limit strap mounts and bumps all need to added to the list. Since my 60 axle is all set, I still maintain the Jana swap is not a bad option.
strongest available? No
YotaAtieToo
Thick skull
HP or LP?
I'd think the Currie D70 hp gears would be the strongest, but from what jantz told me, it's a bit of a task and $$$ to get them into a D60.
Rangerrod
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Custom housing so either go or lp could be used. Jana 76 is low pinion everything else is high pinion. Which is stronger?
white-rhino
Older than dirt
Everything I read says a front HP is stronger than LP. I have never been able to find a percentage number though. (the question in post #1) From experience, I would agree. I ran a HP 60 for 13 years with 11 of those years on stickies and never broke a R&P. I broke this LP in the first 2 months I owned it. Granted the HP never saw bigger than a 39 stickie where as the LP is on 43's and the HP was 350 hp where the LP is 450 hp. So not exactly apples and oranges.
I can't remember for sure if it was Carl Jantz who told me that the J76 kit and load bolt on a low pinion gets you to the equivalent strength of a high pinion.
I have a couple of Dana 80s that I am hanging on to in case the LP60 fails in a major way. I have only done some rough measurements but it looks like a passenger drop D80 in my buggy is a no go unless I push the front axle forward. The pinion offset is better than a 14 bolt but the pinion length is worse. I don't know which would come closer to fitting without swapping to a driver drop TC.
I have a couple of Dana 80s that I am hanging on to in case the LP60 fails in a major way. I have only done some rough measurements but it looks like a passenger drop D80 in my buggy is a no go unless I push the front axle forward. The pinion offset is better than a 14 bolt but the pinion length is worse. I don't know which would come closer to fitting without swapping to a driver drop TC.
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DesertCJ
Name of Pheel...
white-rhino
Older than dirt
That's why I said not apples to oranges. I don't think the horsepower has been a factor since I bought it. The tire size - well that's a given.
white-rhino
Older than dirt
Home from Florida so time to tear it apart. My first impression is a poor set up. I bought this with the understanding that it had an intermittent working Detroit and the seller had just installed a new Grizzly to make it right before he sold it. .014"-.015" backlash and zero pinion preload may have been a strong contributing factor to the broken ring teeth. uggg. I can literally spin the ring gear with my pinkie and back drive the pinion. I also found that I can actually wiggle the pinion yoke and get a little movement. :(. I tried to get a pattern read but it's hard with so little preload and mega backlash. Everything is super sloppy. It's tempting to cancel the order for the Jana 76 and just make sure the set up is done right.
Parts didn't arrive yet so I called Carl today. He hasn't shipped yet - hoping today or tomorrow. So I guess I won't be installing it this weekend. :( But I can strip it and start the grinding process in the meantime. (and clean the shop)
Parts didn't arrive yet so I called Carl today. He hasn't shipped yet - hoping today or tomorrow. So I guess I won't be installing it this weekend. :( But I can strip it and start the grinding process in the meantime. (and clean the shop)
white-rhino
Older than dirt
Parts are supposed to be here today. In the meantime I stripped and cleaned the housing and stuffed the tubes to keep grinding dust out.
Carl tells me to add 3/8” to my existing ring gear to use as a grind template so I welded on a 3/8 bolt.
Using the trans jack really helps when putting the carrier in and out so many times.
First trial the bolt doesn’t get in too far.
Another helpful hint, take the time to clean the carrier and bearing races. Putting it in and out with oil on your hands is a pita.
Carl tells me to add 3/8” to my existing ring gear to use as a grind template so I welded on a 3/8 bolt.
Using the trans jack really helps when putting the carrier in and out so many times.
First trial the bolt doesn’t get in too far.
Another helpful hint, take the time to clean the carrier and bearing races. Putting it in and out with oil on your hands is a pita.
white-rhino
Older than dirt
BTW, uploading from my phone and organizing pics sucks. I can't get Tapatalk to find Irate4x4. Is it me or doesn't Tapatalk work here?
I am interested to see the long term update on the Jana kit. It seems like its a 50/50 shot on whether it works or not but in your case, bad setup plays a role in it. This is pure speculation but from what I have seen, when people wheel on an axle for years with no issue and then take out a R&P, they then take out another and another quicker and quicker each time. I am curious if that is from housing fatigue (if thats even a thing) and by the time they throw in a Jana76 kit the housing may be fucked or fatigued. I guess that is more of a question... but I thought I would mention it. It could also be harder driving styles year after year as you gain confidence in your rig. I would be curious if you took out a few 60 R&P's, then even took out a Jana76 R&P but then took a "fresh" non wheeled chevy 60 and threw a Jana76 kit in it if you would have better results. At that point your probably fed up with a LP60 and go for something else.
I am also curious if a 70 housing up front is stronger then a Jana76 kit in a 60 housing. I am passenger drop and was going to get a chevy kingpin60 but came upon a string of deals that just happened to work out so I cant necessarily recommend it as a "go to" option.
I got a "super 70" housing for free, it was out of an 05 chevy diesel van. This 70 had side adjusters and I was told the original R&P was 10.75in not the regular 10.5in ring gear but cant confirm that and threw in regular 70 gears.
I then got Chevy D60 outers and shafts for 300 bucks.
The housing is substantially bigger, the bearings are bigger, and I can really crank down on the carrier bearing preload (atleast easier then a non side adjuster housing) the inner pinion bearing is bigger. I am curious what role all that plays into a stronger housing or if its minimal gains compared to a Jana76 kit.
Being pass drop and wanting a 14bolt front definitely has additional challenges due to its pinion offset as mentioned before and I am sure if a 70 front is a viable option, it has none of the pinion offset issues of a 14 bolt.
I will also say, I would definitely be interested in a 35 spline pinion option if they ever had one for a LP60 or 70. I have had no issues with my 70 yet but just jumped up to 43s a few months ago.
I am also curious if a 70 housing up front is stronger then a Jana76 kit in a 60 housing. I am passenger drop and was going to get a chevy kingpin60 but came upon a string of deals that just happened to work out so I cant necessarily recommend it as a "go to" option.
I got a "super 70" housing for free, it was out of an 05 chevy diesel van. This 70 had side adjusters and I was told the original R&P was 10.75in not the regular 10.5in ring gear but cant confirm that and threw in regular 70 gears.
I then got Chevy D60 outers and shafts for 300 bucks.
The housing is substantially bigger, the bearings are bigger, and I can really crank down on the carrier bearing preload (atleast easier then a non side adjuster housing) the inner pinion bearing is bigger. I am curious what role all that plays into a stronger housing or if its minimal gains compared to a Jana76 kit.
Being pass drop and wanting a 14bolt front definitely has additional challenges due to its pinion offset as mentioned before and I am sure if a 70 front is a viable option, it has none of the pinion offset issues of a 14 bolt.
I will also say, I would definitely be interested in a 35 spline pinion option if they ever had one for a LP60 or 70. I have had no issues with my 70 yet but just jumped up to 43s a few months ago.
white-rhino
Older than dirt
The kit arrived Friday as promised. Carl does a great job of labeling everything, making special notes etc. Plus, his on line directions are very detailed and are pretty spot on. First up was to assess the array of parts.
Then I dove into grinding the housing. I started out with the trusty Matabo. I painted the bolt that was welded to the scrap ring gear and put it in the housing. I found that the top and bottom of the housing didn't need much grinding but the back rib needed quite a bit of clearancing.
Then I dove into grinding the housing. I started out with the trusty Matabo. I painted the bolt that was welded to the scrap ring gear and put it in the housing. I found that the top and bottom of the housing didn't need much grinding but the back rib needed quite a bit of clearancing.