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D60 front hub questions

JesseA

Member
Joined
May 5, 2023
Member Number
6420
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21
Odd question. I end up in water and mud a lot and considered drilling and tapping a pair of fill and drain plugs into my front 60 hubs.
This way I could use 90 or 140 wt oil and easily drain water contaminated oil and refill.

I’m running dually hubs btw.

Is this a terrible idea?
 
What would you do for seals? Especially a shaft seal

Just up your maintenance intervals or stay out of the water
 
In his blazer rebuild thread on pirate k5runner drilled, tapped and added a zerk fitting to his d60 hubs to fill with grease for similar reasons. Iirc.
 
Make sure the shaft seal where it goes into the spindle is in good shape. There is also a bigger dust seal that accompanies it.

B60C245A-63F5-4F75-B864-D846FA567DEE.jpeg


This is an assembled one I’m sending out for a customer. Clean and grease.
 
I cauggt up with stoutrockmar a couple weeks ago and we were bull shitting and brought up exactly this.

He was destroying wb constantly and started adding zerks and 100% packing the hubs with grease now and never has issues anymore. Pump it till the stub shaft pushes out, spin the hub and push the stub in again and keep going till the first pump pushes the stub out.

He said it takes about a 1/2 tube per hub.
 
I'm running the wild horses bushings instead of stupid needle bearings.

Ran tons of water last year and only pulled them to check them for water intrusion few weeks back and had zero. And I've driven about 8k km on them too.
 
NDCjeepsmith said:
What would you do for seals? Especially a shaft seal

Just up your maintenance intervals or stay out of the water
Click to expand...
I assumed the lockouts, and the spindle seal would at best seep. At worst leak. I’m cool with upping my maintenance intervals but wanted an easier way to do it.

A lot of the trails I frequent have hub deep or deeper water crossings.

Draining a half pint of water contaminated oil is pretty easy compared to disassembling and repacking wheel bearings.
 
I'd say those seals aren't tight enough to keep fluid in. It might work but I think there's a reason it's not done now or commonly anyhow.
 
I remember dragqueen5000 ha ing this issue running Fordyce a lot. Iirc, he made some dummy drive flanges with a zerk to pump them up after a run.

I was weary when I built my kp60 and added a zero to the hub into the wms flange. My thought was that it would fill the cavity between the bearings and push any water out. I never got to really test it out, but Sluggy ended up with those hubs, no idea if he has used them or not.
 
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I like it but I've only been running them for this season so far. I'll know when I gotta tear the front apart.
 
I can't imagine it not helping. The only issue is if someone went crazy with a grease gun and pushed the back seal out.

I'm going to be putting my kp60 back together soon and am not sure where I can put a zero on stock srw hubs....
 
JesseA said:
Balljoint 60 or “bjd60” ? I know autocorrect can confuzzle us sometimes.
Click to expand...
westerncanadianrockwell.ca

SPINDLE BEARING AND SEAL KIT, DANA 60

This is a factory replacement Bearing and Seal Kit for the Dana 60 Spindle. Will work with Dodge, GM and Ford King Pin Axle spindles.
westerncanadianrockwell.ca westerncanadianrockwell.ca

2pc vrs 3 pc.

Wish I had of known about this 2 years ago.

But like I stated getting rid of the needle bearings and running the plastic bearing is better too.
 
Same issue on my Ford KP60 this weekend, broke a stub and lost an outer bearing. I know lack of maintenance is part of it, the other is incorrect inner spindle seals or order/orientation. Ran into a guy who machines a bronze bushing to replace the spindle bearing and has had the same bearings for years, said the key to longevity is the inner spindle seal. I assume the bronze bushing locates the stub better to keep inner seal intact.

SPICER seal kit 700014 has 2 versions, 2 vs 3 seal

To the ppl w/o bearing issues, are you using parts 57-61, replaceing part 61 with plastic or bronze bushing?
1693840365790.png
 
YotaAtieToo said:
…

I'm going to be putting my kp60 back together soon and am not sure where I can put a zero on stock srw hubs....
Click to expand...

a guy could replace the zerk fitting with a pipe plug that’s almost flush on the hub when done doing maintenance, that would allow the hub rim to slide over. Reinstall when you want to add.
 
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Whatever said:
a guy could replace the zerk fitting with a pipe plug that’s almost flush on the hub when done doing maintenance, that would allow the hub
rim to slide over. Reinstall when you want to add.
Click to expand...
on my dually hubs i put a grease zerk on the hub. drilled a hole between each wheel bearing and when you grease it you are pushing fresh grease to each bearing. yes new maybe in order but this helped me between cycles
 
chaplinfj60 said:
on my dually hubs i put a grease zerk on the hub. drilled a hole between each wheel bearing and when you grease it you are pushing fresh grease to each bearing. yes new maybe in order but this helped me between cycles
Click to expand...

I like it. On DRW hubs easy enough to leave the zerk fitting and it’s somewhat protected by the wheels IMO.

Post you quoted was an option for yota82 and his srw hubs where you don’t have that option.
 
Whatever said:
I like it. On DRW hubs easy enough to leave the zerk fitting and it’s somewhat protected by the wheels IMO.

Post you quoted was an option for yota82 and his srw hubs where you don’t have that option.
Click to expand...
but i think we do have the option. drill and tap hole for zert, then install zert pump in grease, then take it out and replace with a plug, i believe there re low pro file ones. maybe in set screw plug seal. put wheel back on. at least this is how i think it can be done.
 
chaplinfj60 said:
but i think we do have the option…
Click to expand...

I never said it wasn’t an option, yota82 did.

YotaAtieToo said:
…

I'm going to be putting my kp60 back together soon and am not sure where I can put a zero on stock srw hubs....
Click to expand...


:lmao:. Am I missing something or we suggesting that the same thing be done?


chaplinfj60 said:
… drill and tap hole for zert, then install zert pump in grease, then take it out and replace with a plug, i believe there re low pro file ones. maybe in set screw plug seal. put wheel back on. at least this is how i think it can be done.
Click to expand...

Whatever said:
a guy could replace the zerk fitting with a pipe plug that’s almost flush on the hub when done doing maintenance, that would allow the hub rim to slide over. Reinstall when you want to add.
Click to expand...
 
The hubs sluggy ended up with old ass 6x5.5 hubs that had a super thick wms flange. I sanded a small flat spot in it and drilled down between the lug stud holes for a zerk. Depending on wheels you may be able to pump it without pulling the wheel and tire off, but either way fairly easy.

The stock srw hubs aren't just a thick solid flange, so this may not be possible. I haven't looked at them enough to figure out what I'm going to do. The outside wheel bearing is pretty close to the wms flange iirc, so I'm not sure how much room there is to drill for the zerk. The method of switching with a plug may be the only option.
 
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