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CustomBatteryCables

I enjoy making battery cables. Also I'm picky and want them done my way. This is where I get stuff TEMCo Industrial LLC They even have the crimp tools. Been using the hammer crimped (works fine). Will be buying their hydraulic crimper.

Welding cable
Tinned copper lugs
Marine shrink tube
Lead military style terminals
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crimp some eye lugs on the cables, then use military terminals, they got a big through bolt instead of wimpy little shit, the big blocky square ones
oh and they're lead, so the terminal on the battery itself doesn't get fucked up from the copper terminal on it
Put both batteries on the passenger side fender with a custom battery tray. Then build some big fat cables with the crimp on ends yourself. It'll crank twice as fast. These are both OBS fords, but same/same only different.
can't fit two 31s on the right side
 
Been using the hammer crimped (works fine). Will be buying their hydraulic crimper.
ebay chink hydraulic one is like 40 bucks, buy one


or the wimpier c-frame one:
 
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I enjoy making battery cables. Also I'm picky and want them done my way. This is where I get stuff TEMCo Industrial LLC They even have the crimp tools. Been using the hammer crimped (works fine). Will be buying their hydraulic crimper.

Welding cable
Tinned copper lugs
Marine shrink tube
Lead military style terminals
20190905_154843.jpg
Silly question but what are you using for your labels? I'm gonna need something like that to fix my current rat's nest.
 
I enjoy making battery cables. Also I'm picky and want them done my way. This is where I get stuff TEMCo Industrial LLC They even have the crimp tools. Been using the hammer crimped (works fine). Will be buying their hydraulic crimper.

I bought their crimper and it's wonderful. Love using it to make cables. Yeah there are cheaper options but just didn't wanna end up sending twice if the cheap one sucked, broke, etc. Anyways money well spend either way.
 
FYI this might be useful for someone.
CAT sells a double ended stud for a standard post battery terminal.
Would make it easy to add a cable to a clamp that doesn't readily accept them.

3T-3349 stud 5/16-18 $14
1M-6120 nut 5/16-18 $.50
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Or, a long-enough 5/16-18 bolt with a locknut halfway up.
 
I've put it on here before, but I built this crimper for my hydraulic press.

I use it almost exclusively crimping ends on and the only time I grab my hand type hydraulic crimper is if it is still mounted to the vehicle/equipment and I don't feel like removing the entire cable. And after crimping I always cover the ends with triple walled adhesive lined heat shrink. Shit is kinda pricey, but it's beefy.

I should get a picture of my battery cable ends box. Probably have over $1000 worth of crimp on terminals and ends in there. :eek:

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I bought their crimper and it's wonderful. Love using it to make cables. Yeah there are cheaper options but just didn't wanna end up sending twice if the cheap one sucked, broke, etc. Anyways money well spend either way.
Is this the one you got? I am planning to go with temco for the same reason. That and it should be sized right for their ring terminals.

 
I enjoy making battery cables. Also I'm picky and want them done my way. This is where I get stuff TEMCo Industrial LLC They even have the crimp tools. Been using the hammer crimped (works fine). Will be buying their hydraulic crimper.

Welding cable
Tinned copper lugs
Marine shrink tube
Lead military style terminals

I bought from the same people off of amazon when i did my 7.3 battery, starter and alternator connections out of 2/0 welding cable. Cable was great quality and the ends were awesome with the wide pad and pre tinned. I used the same stuff for 2 solar systems so far so good on everything. I make sure to buy good quality double or triple wall heat shrink for any cable ends.

I'm still a caveman so i use one of the hammer style crimpers and beat the fawk out of the ends to release some frustration at the same time :laughing:

edit: it may be a worthwhile investment to frankenstein a 6.4or 6.7 starter motor onto yours. I did it with a 6.7 starter and my obs 7.3 spins 2-3x faster than it did before
 
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I would have guessed a set of cables would cost $50.

Getting old sucks. I remember when prices were low and pussy was wet. :frown:
now "pussy" smells like doo-doo

For cables I have gone to using car audio stuff for the most part. Costs seems the same and it's crazy flexible.
careful a lot of that shit is copper clad aluminum
 
Exactly. I'm at a stage of life where I have more money than time and energy. I could have made my own but at the end of the day I just decided " I don't want to do this" and looks like I don't have to, so I won't. :grinpimp:
I'm at the stage of life where I have neither. 🤣
 
Not sure if it's available elsewhere, but Polar Wire in Anchorage sells Arctic Flex wire that is some awesome stuff.
 
Put both batteries on the passenger side fender with a custom battery tray. Then build some big fat cables with the crimp on ends yourself. It'll crank twice as fast. These are both OBS fords, but same/same only different.
Have you got any pictures of how you built and mounted the trays?
 
Have you got any pictures of how you built and mounted the trays?
on mine to make it fit a couple group 31s I just extended the flange that bolts into the fender up by an inch so the tray would sit lower, then drilled new holes in the core support for that end of the tray
the strut that goes from the fender to the far side of the tray just got a spacer and a longer bolt into the fender

I got nothing for sticking both on one side
 
i just whipped up a quick temporary ground for the new truck. forgot I had my handheld crimper, went the ol' screwdriver and hammer crimp method. worked just fine :homer:
 
Is 1/0 too small for a 7.3 power stroke?

Amazon has a diy kit with 10’ red, 10’ black, lugs, crimpers and cutters for $110.00

I put the order through but am starting to think I made a mistake.

I could always use it for a trunk mount battery in the mustang if I don’t use it on the truck.
 
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