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Class C 4x4 Converstion

michael.gonzalez said:
Interesting stabilizer. When the steering is centered, is the spring relaxed? Does it provide compression in one direction and tension in the other? Or is it always in compression?
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Yes, it's only static when the wheel is pointing straight, turning the wheel puts it either in compression or tension.
 
Intriguing stabilizer. I've never seen that. Sounds like it increases your natural return to center that you get from caster angle. Harder to steer?
 
Iirc, those stabilizers have been around for decades. Remember seeing them advertised in the offroad mags in the 80’s. Cool concept.

awesome build
 
cool rig. guaranteed you did it for a tiny fraction of the cost of a Ujoint offroad build and got a better suspension out of it.
 
rockota said:
Iirc, those stabilizers have been around for decades. Remember seeing them advertised in the offroad mags in the 80’s. Cool concept.

awesome build
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The company way back then used flat stock for the coil spring, not round. I wish I could remember the name of the outfit
 
JNHEscher said:
Intriguing stabilizer. I've never seen that. Sounds like it increases your natural return to center that you get from caster angle. Harder to steer?
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I don't notice any difference in the steering, but the E450 is hydroboost so I assume it's got a pretty decent power steering pump to start with too.
 
A few weeks ago I was caught in the snow and the 4x4 really paid off.
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Chasing more steering angle, I got a pitman at from a 1999 F250, it's 6.5" from center to center, reemed to fit the superduty tie rod.
I did not measure what I had before and what I have now, but now it at least hits the steering stops.
Pitman arms.jpg


Also at the junkyard was a F450 with the Dana 80 rear axle, so I robbed the factory finned aluminum cover off it for my motorhome.
diffcover.jpg


Pitman arms.jpg
 
Aluminum covers scare me, I'd probably throw the steel one and a tube of rtv and a few qts of oil in your mh, big target, smallish tires, minimal visibility, too high of a likelihood you'll be trying to find a d80 cover 300 miles from home on a holiday...
 
Have you considered any traction aid for the rear axle? I wonder about a TrueTrac or something similar for my regular 2WD motorhome, and don't know if there would be much value there. Seems like 3WD would help with your sand stuff, so I was curious.
 
Projectjunkie said:
I checked twice, didn't see it, can you post pics and info of the t case install?

great build:grinpimp:
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Will do, it was a bolt on, no mods, no anything. Unbolted the stock flange on the output shaft of the transmission, bolted the T case to it.
The transmission mount from the Van had an extra section to bolt it to the back of the transmission, but that unbolts from the actual mount and then that mount bolts to the T case and to the stock cross member.
 
OHV Wildcat said:
Have you considered any traction aid for the rear axle? I wonder about a TrueTrac or something similar for my regular 2WD motorhome, and don't know if there would be much value there. Seems like 3WD would help with your sand stuff, so I was curious.
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Thought about a true locker for the back, I just don't think any Limited slip has the traction to move 12k lbs.
It's a Dana Super 70 (I think) and I've not seen any locker options. Ford did list a limited slip as an option on the built sheet.

I'd probally put something in the front 60 first, easy and cheap to get used.
 
Projectjunkie said:
I checked twice, didn't see it, can you post pics and info of the t case install?

great build:grinpimp:
Click to expand...

Not the best pics, because it's already installed, but it is a complete bolt in.
Also note the Fullsize bronco transfer case skid plate, because why not! I did have to widen it, I would of tried to use a Superduty T case skid plate, but I could not find one.
The driveshaft is a stock 1999 F250 V10 superduty shaft, it needed a 1' spacer to be perfect.
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More fun things, I found a set of Rough County Radius arms for sale for $100, they are nice as they are cam adjustable.
radiusarm11.jpg
radiusarm.jpg
 
Looks great! im looking to do the same thing ive got a few questions.
what offset wheels did you get?
did you have to notch the engine crossmember?
did you have to modify the exhaust?
did you make the radius arm brackets?
 
JDS said:
Looks great! im looking to do the same thing ive got a few questions.
what offset wheels did you get?
did you have to notch the engine crossmember?
did you have to modify the exhaust?
did you make the radius arm brackets?
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Rear wheels are stock, the front wheels -6mm offset.

Yes, engine crossmemeber trimmed back, I think only a 1/2' lip on the front remains.

Yes, you have you make a new Y pipe that goes from the driver side mainfold and tie it into the other side, the bonus part is Ford did a crappy job on it to start, so it's nice to clean it up. I bought no tubing, I reused the parts I cut off.
 
Today’s fun project, we’ve been going on longer and longer trips in the 4xthor and the stock 44 gallon fresh water tank on the RV sucks! After 4-5 days we are out of water. I found a tank and an empty spot under the camper and added 25 more gallons. It’s hooked like a transfer tank so the 25 gallon fills the main 44 gallon. For thoughts, my old cabover held 65 gallons and always seemed to be enough.
Soon it will be ready for Baja.

watertank2.jpg
wwtertank.jpg
watertank3.jpg
 
welndmn said:
Thought about a true locker for the back, I just don't think any Limited slip has the traction to move 12k lbs.
It's a Dana Super 70 (I think) and I've not seen any locker options. Ford did list a limited slip as an option on the built sheet.

I'd probally put something in the front 60 first, easy and cheap to get used.
Click to expand...
rear lockright made a massive difference in my 2wd DRW F350
it does really like to loosen the lug nuts though, but they're easy enough to check periodically

some of those E-550 front fender flares would prob look way good on this
 
welndmn said:
Today’s fun project, we’ve been going on longer and longer trips in the 4xthor and the stock 44 gallon fresh water tank on the RV sucks! After 4-5 days we are out of water. I found a tank and an empty spot under the camper and added 25 more gallons. It’s hooked like a transfer tank so the 25 gallon fills the main 44 gallon. For thoughts, my old cabover held 65 gallons and always seemed to be enough.
Soon it will be ready for Baja.

watertank2.jpg
wwtertank.jpg
watertank3.jpg
Click to expand...
Awesome work on the freshwater! What about the waste side of the equation? You in a place where you can pee outside? When we're boondocking in sight of others, it's the tiny 22 gal black tank on mine that's the issue. Hopefully yours has more. The 2 of us can make it about 3 days. The limited tankage and rattle-your-teeth rear suspension is what has me considering a bigger, air-sprung unit, as dumb as that sounds. But watching your thread and how a guy makes a small C a better fit ALMOST inspires me not to be so lazy...
 
It's a 35 gallon gray and 30 gallon black.
We've never topped off the tank yet, but I do pee outside and if I can wash up outside as well to not use the tanks.
The other reason I wanted more fresh water is I also need it to put out camp fires and fill large pots for cooking crabs.
 
welndmn said:
Chasing more steering angle, I got a pitman at from a 1999 F250, it's 6.5" from center to center, reemed to fit the superduty tie rod.
I did not measure what I had before and what I have now, but now it at least hits the steering stops.
Pitman arms.jpg


Also at the junkyard was a F450 with the Dana 80 rear axle, so I robbed the factory finned aluminum cover off it for my motorhome.
diffcover.jpg


Pitman arms.jpg
Click to expand...
So dumb question, which one fit and worked best?
 
welndmn said:
It's a 35 gallon gray and 30 gallon black.
We've never topped off the tank yet, but I do pee outside and if I can wash up outside as well to not use the tanks.
The other reason I wanted more fresh water is I also need it to put out camp fires and fill large pots for cooking crabs.
Click to expand...
I dont know the issues but why not use gray water for putting out the camp fires?
 
CarterKraft said:
I know nothing about tuning leaves either but stengel bro.s truck has catalogs you can look through that list the leaves in stock packs by rate and add a lift kits to add capacity listed to same way.
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The stengel bros site looks like a good resource. I have a lifted ford boxvan that needs rear springs. I'm seeing a few that have more free arch at similar weight rating, should hopefully work out to a lift spring for me.
 
1Sinner said:
Super clean upgrade. How much do you think you're in the conversion for?
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It was about 4-5K I think, I listed all the prices, I just forgot the total.
The main cost was tires and wheels being 2k. You can use the factory tires and wheels if you like little tires :)
Stuck said:
I dont know the issues but why not use gray water for putting out the camp fires?
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People in CA would freak out if they say you open a sewer valve. They don't care if it's gray / black / fresh, anything leaking puts people in a panic.
 
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