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Choosing Brake Pads

SLOWPOKE693 said:
This.

Spidertrax solid rotors and Willwood calipers look cool and that's about it. Unless you are putting those on the rear of a 2800lb race car and matching them with a pair of vented front rotors and much better calipers you ain't stopping very good. Spidertrax made those rotors to lighten up axles and rotating weight on U4 cars and they were never great at stopping. Ask any U4 racer and they will tell you the same thing.

I'd recommend the highest ratio pedal set you can find to give yourself 1/2 a chance at stopping. Anything less and you are grabbing the steering wheel and pulling yourself down towards the brake pedal with your leg locked to slow down. Stopping quickly isn't happening.
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Gonna disagree with you on some of that. If you get all the right parts together you’ll have a manual brake system that works as good or better than an assisted one and be lighter. BUT that shit ain’t cheap. Just the brakes on my little 4600 Bronco was $5000 and change. You’d be surprised at the pedal feel and performance. That’s 4 calipers rotors hats and a pedal with masters for 5K, which is why I think a lot of people mismatch shit and then complain about it not working like they thought.

SLOWPOKE693 said:
JR4X could probably give you some insight on the Spidertrax brake setup and how good/bad it stops an offroad rig.
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I forgot to look at our pads materials while I was at the shop. I’ll try to remember tonight. It’s ass holes and elbows with race prep for the Disney race in 2 weeks
 
Austin said:
Looks like I could send these back and upgrade to their vented rotors. Same for the calipers, they have bridged 6 piston ones to fit these rotors.

I have the 74Weld hats made just for the 404’s axles and designed to work with the rotors I got. So I would assume I could use their vented rotors as well. Just may need to make a custom bracket to mount the caliper. Will have to call 74Weld and Spidertrax to verify.
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You don't need 6 pistons and vented rotors for a unimog that drives at 45 mph.
Get some Dynapro 4 pots and it'll be fine. It's a billet upgraded version of the dynalite. Bolts in place and uses the same pads. Significant strength upgrade.

120-14153-lg.jpg


That's if you want something that bolts in place of your current setup.


If you want to make something from scratch, I'd go with TimJus suggestion and get some yota 4 pot calipers. They are very strong, small, cheap and work well.
 
Bebop said:
You don't need 6 pistons and vented rotors for a unimog that drives at 45 mph.
Get some Dynapro 4 pots and it'll be fine. It's a billet upgraded version of the dynalite. Bolts in place and uses the same pads. Significant strength upgrade.
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You think solid disks at all 4 corners are going to live a happy life stopping a 6k rig with big heavy tires on the street?

I have to disagree. Those things are gonna glow. Absolutely wrong part for the job.

Agreed on the 4 piston calipers being fine.
 
Do you know how bad are the brakes that come factory in a Unimog 426?
Those solid rotors will be an upgrade for sure.
 
gt1guy said:
Wilwood 14" vented rotors on Spidertrax 8x6.5 hats, Aero 6 calipers in front.

Wilwood 13" vented rotors on Spidertrax 8x6.5 hats, Aero 6 calipers in rear.

Front calipers have the larger pistons and the rear calipers have the smaller pistons.
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Why build with the diffrent sizes? Not something a proportioning valve could take care of?
 
JR4X said:
Gonna disagree with you on some of that. If you get all the right parts together you’ll have a manual brake system that works as good or better than an assisted one and be lighter.
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The pedal ratio and bore size needed to hit 1500+ makes for a lot of pedal travel. Technically yes you can but it would be much more space friendly with a booster. Not everyone has room for a 2' brake pedal.
 
bdkw1 said:
The pedal ratio and bore size needed to hit 1500+ makes for a lot of pedal travel. Technically yes you can but it would be much more space friendly with a booster. Not everyone has room for a 2' brake pedal.
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You’re not wrong. But I bet if anything does it’s a Mog. And I’d still recommend hydroboost first.

Our 4500 car has less than stellar brakes. All in the pedal length being the problem
 
Austin said:
Why build with the diffrent sizes? Not something a proportioning valve could take care of?
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I don't believe I need the exact same set up F&R. I do have a prop valve in the mix to fine tune when it finally move under it's own power.
 
If they 404 uses rotors like the 416 does, they are crazy. The rotor probably weighs 50lbs each. And dual calipers.

But JR4X is spot on the matched system, it's important but one of the most of looked aspects.
 
Weasel said:
If they 404 uses rotors like the 416 does, they are crazy. The rotor probably weighs 50lbs each. And dual calipers.

But JR4X is spot on the matched system, it's important but one of the most of looked aspects.
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The 404 uses drums, but they are easily+ 50lbs a piece.

After talking to several with this setup, I'm sticking to the single blade.

Us Mog people have have to use something that fits the 74Weld's Unimog hub & caliper mount. I could try and reinvent the wheel but this projects is already taking me way longer than planned. From what I hear other 404 owners don't have issues with these overheating.

Based off Bebop's comments, I am returning the forged Dynalite calipers for the Dynapro 4 calipers. But it leads to a new questions (before we get back to the original one)

This Dynapro Lug Mount (PN: 120-9695) is the same size/specs as the forged one 74Weld suggested, but the Center bridge bolts are an upgrade option.
Dynapro_Lug_Mount_Black-sm.jpg


I can get the same size/specs on this This Dynapro Lug Mount (PN: 120-9695-SI) a "SI" (Side Inlet) version and they come with the center bridge bolt.
Dynapro_Lug_Mount-SI-sm.jpg

I don't see a good explanation on what the Side Inlet is really. If the other one posted above have an inlet on the side? it looks like it's centered on the back side so is the "SI" a dual side inlet? Or just moved to the other side? Somehow they are $35 cheaper too?
 
The side inlet has the port on the opposite side of the mount.

Look at the port in the middle of the W on the second picture you posted.

Green is normal, red is side mount.

1695233257582.png


You want the first one you posted, with the center bridge option.

Be careful, there are different rotor thickness options for the same caliper.
 
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Bebop said:
Made it, just for you
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:beer:

Man their site sucks, so many pages I found through google dump to generic pages where the content is gone. That caliper's 'Additional Notes' says to get the Bridge Bolt kit with it ... scroll down to it's accessories and it says Bridge bolt Kit n/a for that one :shaking:
 
That's the bridge bolt kit.

You can make it yourself :

c3acc80f0a584c06b7612c3d0137b684_1024x1024.jpg
 
Also, make sure you bleed both sides of the caliper. Otherwise you're only going to be using 2 pistons instead of 4.

Ask me how I know... :homer:
 
TimJus said:
its just design, missing bridge, too weak material. un controlled flexing is the reason they give max psi.

im planning trash canning mine and relapsing them with Toyota landcruiser hd/kdj120 calibers. same size pistons.
cheaper and pads are cheaper too. bit heavier but they dont flex.
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take a look at defender 110 front callipers. 4 piston floating good price for callipers and pads. I have them alle arround with yellow ebc
 
Peter S said:
take a look at defender 110 front callipers. 4 piston floating good price for callipers and pads. I have them alle arround with yellow ebc
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Defender = expensive here.

Toyota shit is common and cheap here.

But he wants a bolt-in upgrade for the Dynalite. That's what the Dynapros are.
 
Bebop said:
Defender = expensive here.

Toyota shit is common and cheap here.

But he wants a bolt-in upgrade for the Dynalite. That's what the Dynapros are.
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Yes but was also for Timjus who lives in europe. a calliper for defender is like 70-100 euros new
 
Peter S said:
Yes but was also for Timjus who lives in europe. a calliper for defender is like 70-100 euros new
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Toyota ones are ~100e too and more common here.

other thing i have been looking with dynalites is to machine caliber for bigger bolts and make bridge to them. maybe try before swapping them out:idea:
 
So I pulled an audible, switched to the bigger 6 pistons after returning the forged Forged Dynalites. :smokin:
IMG_9068.jpeg


Oh, and after talking to a few Mog guys that have done the conversion, I went with the 150-12760K pads. They do say not for street use, but are what the others are switching to for their higher initial bite.
 
That caliper says it work with up to a 13" rotor. Didn't you say your rotors were 14"?
 
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