Chainsaws....

Hooligan said:
Let me know when and where to sign up for a class, my internet search doesn’t find much.

I see that Sierra Club offers it..,,but have to join SC and do some **** to get invited.
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I sent an email to the FS in Placerville to see if they have any planed


Rockcrawlintoy said:
Check the backcountry horsemen.
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they do a lot of them, but in this area, the card needs to come from the Forest Service.

good resources from them here

Sawyer Resources | Back Country Horsemen of America

Dedicated to keeping America's trails open for all. Back Country Horsemen of America volunteers spend 300,000 hours each year working to maintain trails on public lands. That equates to a value of $11.2 million dollars in trail work donated to local and federal land managing agencies. Since...
www.bcha.org www.bcha.org
 
Rockcrawlintoy said:
Luckily the trail orgs have good support we had a bunch of people getting A,B and C cards. I got my A which is lame even though the evaluator wanted to give me a B some new program said no.
IMG_5324.jpeg
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thats a ton of people there, good for them.

this Forest does not like giving out anything more than an A to volunteers here.
that is just dumb. an A must have a B in attendance to do any work.

I have been a B since 07. would like a C but don't need it.
would really like to do the training part of the class and then let the Forest Service just do the evaluation
would allow so many more people to be certified

Steve300xcw said:
Why do you need these cards? Just work stuff?
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it is to cover volunteers for doing authorized work with chainsaws.

if I am out cutting firewood, and cut my leg off it is on me.
if I am out clearing a trail for the Forest Service under a volunteer agreement and cut my leg off, they are responsible
 
WLDWUN said:
I sent an email to the FS in Placerville to see if they have any planed



they do a lot of them, but in this area, the card needs to come from the Forest Service.

good resources from them here

Sawyer Resources | Back Country Horsemen of America

Dedicated to keeping America's trails open for all. Back Country Horsemen of America volunteers spend 300,000 hours each year working to maintain trails on public lands. That equates to a value of $11.2 million dollars in trail work donated to local and federal land managing agencies. Since...
www.bcha.org www.bcha.org
Click to expand...
Yeah I know the card comes from the forest service but I would rather attend the backcountry horseman class than the sierra club. They will prolly only cert for crosscut lol
 
Does the intake manifold not give case pressure to the hole thats there thats offset?
 
Put the little saw back together with the stock carb. Won't run at full throttle. Anything over 2/3 and it falls on its face and dies. I guess I get to pull the carb and try to clean it again... I hate carbs!
 
with the 170 check two things

on the carb, make sure it is taken apart on both ends and that there is no debris in the filter or under the diaphragms, very simple to do.
check the spark arrestor in the muffler, very fine screen and can get clogged and limit flow. I have removed mine now because it causes problems
 
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We bought a cabin in the Sierras and I wanted a saw to leave up there. So, I’m trying out the Neotec

IMG_1456.jpeg


IMG_1457.jpeg
 
looks a lot like the larger series of zenoah clone saws
got a 5800 or a 6200 (it is marked as both on the plastics and I don't recall which it was sold as, lol) and it does well enough
the fuel tank vent fell out when the grommet shrunk and all the screws into plastic loosen up over time, the "air filter" does all of nothing, but it runs okay and has outlasted my expectations. Kinda regret buying it now that I'm swimming in 'name brand' throwaway/homeowner saws, but it was still running last time I started it. Maybe I oughta use it up cutting stumps.
 
WLDWUN said:
with the 170 check two things

on the carb, make sure it is taken apart on both ends and that there is no debris in the filter or under the diaphragms, very simple to do.
check the spark arrestor in the muffler, very fine screen and can get clogged and limit flow. I have removed mine now because it causes problems
Click to expand...
Screen is clean. I'll have to tear it down again to get the carb out. And I'm out of carb cleaner!
 
[486] said:
looks a lot like the larger series of zenoah clone saws
got a 5800 or a 6200 (it is marked as both on the plastics and I don't recall which it was sold as, lol) and it does well enough
the fuel tank vent fell out when the grommet shrunk and all the screws into plastic loosen up over time, the "air filter" does all of nothing, but it runs okay and has outlasted my expectations. Kinda regret buying it now that I'm swimming in 'name brand' throwaway/homeowner saws, but it was still running last time I started it. Maybe I oughta use it up cutting stumps.
Click to expand...
I figure it won’t be hard to get my $160 worth and it saves me from hauling saws back and forth between two wooded properties.
 
Little saw runs again with the stock carb. Ebay seller says return the other one.... Pull cord is nice, but almost seems to impact more at the end of the pull. maybe needed another turn, but spool seemed full.
 
Probably an absolutely ******ed question. My Echo CS590 absolutely kills oilers. Metal drive against plastic worm gear. Does anyone know a solution that isn’t “replace the oiler every 20 hours”. I don’t do enough saw work to justify buying something cool and the damn thing works great, when it oils.
 
the plastic worm gear's on the crank like most any other saw, yeah? one would think that'd be the safety fuse failure point

maybe try running used motor oil as bar oil instead of whatever you're running, and crank the adjuster up to maximum
my **** still oils plenty well
 
Bcoiteux said:
Probably an absolutely ******ed question. My Echo CS590 absolutely kills oilers. Metal drive against plastic worm gear. Does anyone know a solution that isn’t “replace the oiler every 20 hours”. I don’t do enough saw work to justify buying something cool and the damn thing works great, when it oils.
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I’ve had my 590 for 11+ years and haven’t had any issues with the oiler. I run all season bar and chain oil. Whatever brand I can find cheap. I cut a few cords a year.
 
I picked up a jug of Harvest King bar oil this winter. Local chain TSC type place had it for $8 a gal vs $26+ for the Stihl silver jug. One thing I noticed immediately is the HK was thinner and would actually pour out of the jug in sub freezing temps. Project Farm on YT actually did a test on the bar oils and HK ranked highest overall.
 
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