Chainsaws....

[Krackle959]

I’d probably skip that splitter if I was looking to have a side hustle selling firewood. The 15 second cycle time is slow. Unless you are splitting to a conveyor, you have to move everything you split before you can move the splitter. It’s not an issue if your moving wood to the splitter, but that’s also more time and extra step.

It looks like a cross between the Country Line/Troy-Built homeowner splitters and wanting to be an Easton-made or Wolfe Ridge splitter. It has the higher end splitter features, but the frame, speed, and ergonomics of the big box store splitters.

As mentioned you could build something faster and probably cheaper than that splitter. A sub 10 second cycle time is good, mine runs 8 seconds cycle time and is about right for me doing a cord an hour alone. 28 ton splitting force does everything I’ve asked of it, a log lift is needed for big rounds, you could also half them with a saw instead of the log lift. My log lift is more often used as a staging rack for rounds than lifting them.

I’ve only been splitting 15 or so cords a year, 5-6 for us, 4 for the in-laws and 5-6 to sell. Slowly working on doing more each year, hoping to have split 10 cord or so to sell next year.

 

[Wades_76_cj7]

I am on the fence.. that is a lot of coin. as mentioned that is a lot of cords just to pay for the splitter for I am making money. I know the cycle time is a little slower but running a 4 or 6 way wedge on it would make the cycle time argument null.

 

[[486]]

I am on the fence.. that is a lot of coin. as mentioned that is a lot of cords just to pay for the splitter for I am making money. I know the cycle time is a little slower but running a 4 or 6 way wedge on it would make the cycle time argument null.

Log splitter / wood processor - household items - by owner - housewares sale - craigslist

1yr old logsplitter. Very taken care of. This newer machine has less than 25 hours on it. Its got a Kohler 9.5 engine Its a 32 ton Big Boy $2,750 new / will take = $1,750 Call or text anytime (816)7...

kansascity.craigslist.org

Wood splitter - farm & garden - by owner - sale - craigslist

Huskee 22 ton log splitter works good

kansascity.craigslist.org

Log Splitter - farm & garden - by owner - sale - craigslist

Log Splitter, forward & reverse splitting. New carburetor, new gas tank & new spark plug. Works good, but has a small hydraulic leak. On wheels, tow behind vehicle. Asking 500.00 Firm. Cash...

kansascity.craigslist.org

dunno
no matter what you're going to be adding some sorta auto-return linkage and detents onto the valve
probably swapping to a bigger motor and pump eventually to decrease cycle time
iirc you've got a tractor with some manner of loader, sure you don't want to make up a log deck to load everything onto so you can use gravity to drop what you've cut into the splitter?

 

[WLDWUN]

That said I am looking at the Full Boar 35 ton with 2/4/6 way wedge with hydraulic height adjust and hydraulic log lift. Have watched several videos on YT and people seem to be happy with it for the money. Not it's not a Timber Wolf but it's also 1/3 the price. I can pick one up from home Depot for $4k OTD and put it on my HD card with 0% for 12 months. yes I know it's not really 0% since the price is a little higher than buying other places..


thoughts?

first, I hate companies that mislead about the "ton" rating of splitters. (almost all do that)
you would need about 3600 psi for that to generate 35 tons , which would bend or break that splitter. the motor/pump combo will not product that pressure and the bypass valve is most likely set at 2250 psi, yielding 22 tons
the same as all 5" cylinder splitters including mine which is a TW-5.

that said, 22 tons will split almost anything you can throw at it.
it is not a commercial unit, high end homeowner maybe.
17 seconds does seem a bit long to me with a 18gpm pump
18GPM would yield 6.7 seconds out for a 5" bore and 5.7 sends return
I have a 4 way wedge and most of the time don't use it. it is great for the right size round (8-12") to get 4 pieces out of but does make it harder if you need a second pass
I have the log lift and could not operate a horizontal only unit without it.
I would want to talk to people who have used it to get their opnions as compared to those that just can only look at the details.
4k is a lot for most to spend on a splitter
I spent 4K on mine and it was lightly used 10+ years ago, (Timberwolf TW-5), I have no regrets on it.

 

[WLDWUN]

I am on the fence.. that is a lot of coin. as mentioned that is a lot of cords just to pay for the splitter for I am making money. I know the cycle time is a little slower but running a 4 or 6 way wedge on it would make the cycle time argument null.

I did not buy a splitter so I could sell wood, I sell wood because I bought a splitter

even at $200/cord
4K is just 20 cords of wood
I sell 5K worth of wood for fun every year. (I have a real job still)

 

[[486]]

wait why is the lifter on a separate cylinder

link it to the main cylinder with a cable so it is on the ground with the ram fully extended and lifts your wood as you retract

 

[WLDWUN]

wait why is the lifter on a separate cylinder

link it to the main cylinder with a cable so it is on the ground with the ram fully extended and lifts your wood as you retract

they are all that way.
I would not want the lift moving unless I direct it to

 

[Wades_76_cj7]

I appreciate the feedback guys. I am not gonna buy it. I talked myself out of it. $4k out the door is 13+ cord of wood before I am in the black again.

WLDWUN I was kind of thinking that on the 4 way wedge as well. it would be great if it's all 12-16" rounds but it won't be so I think I will just go with a regular single wedge.

I do have a loader on my tractor so I can use that to pick up the big booger blocks to waist height then set them on the splitter. makes things much easier.


on another note I dropped a couple hedge trees today. the bigger one was 24" plus across on the stump end. Dad's 044 still gets it done.

 

[AKnate]

Not seeing any log splitter, but yeah 15 seconds is very slow for any sort of production work. More around 5 seconds is decent.

My processor is 15 ton I think. It handles a 6 way knife without fuss. It's 3/4" thick. Or maybe 1". I forget now. No need for some fat hog 6" thick "wedge" when the next block will push it through.

 

[Wades_76_cj7]

Not seeing any log splitter, but yeah 15 seconds is very slow for any sort of production work. More around 5 seconds is decent.

My processor is 15 ton I think. It handles a 6 way knife without fuss. It's 3/4" thick. Or maybe 1". I forget now. No need for some fat hog 6" thick "wedge" when the next block will push it through.

I haven't bought a splitter yet.

 

[Krackle959]

I run a 4 way wedge most of the time, easy tap of the lever to lift the wedge up and run the bigger pieces through the main knife again if needed. Also got a 6 way wedge, and barely use it at all. It’s perfect for the right sized wood, but I usually just stick with the 4 way wedge.

 

[Wades_76_cj7]

I run a 4 way wedge most of the time, easy tap of the lever to lift the wedge up and run the bigger pieces through the main knife again if needed. Also got a 6 way wedge, and barely use it at all. It’s perfect for the right sized wood, but I usually just stick with the 4 way wedge.

what splitter are you using?

 

[Krackle959]

what splitter are you using?

A Wolfe Ridge 28 Compact Commercial, it’s more than I need.

Got tired of splitting 5-6 cord with a Troy-Built splitter on weekends while working 65 hrs a week. Had to spend some money from having the property selectively cut or pay income taxes on it, so I over bought as a farm expense.

Still have the Troy-Built splitter it’s on loan at my in-laws house for their use. Paid $600 for it when we bought our house, the previous owners had it and were not going to need it anymore. It was basically brand new, hardly a scratch on it. I ran it for 3 years before upgrading.

 

[MoparMoe]

Highly recommend building a splitter if you have a tractor to power it.
The problem with any store bought splitter is the slow cycle time.
Get a PTO hydraulic pump 18 /21 GPM a tank and a 4" ram .
my control lever has a detent on the return so while I'm grabbing the next piece its going back
I have my total cycle time (out and back) down to just under 8 seconds.
with a 4 way head on it I can feed a cord through it in under hour and a half alone.
even quicker with a helper moving wood of course.

I run mine off a gas dozer at idle , its a governed engine so it compensates for the load.

 

[Wades_76_cj7]

Coworker said his neighbor lady has a home built one that she's had for a bit. Said he's gotta go by there and weld on her trailer for her. Said he'd take a look at it and see what kind of shape it's in and what the price may be. he said it's a big bastard though.

 

[bigun]

Seems appropriate for the thread

Watch this black bear wander off with a Tennessee man's chainsaw

Is this the sequel to the Texas Chainsaw Massacre? Because I think I found the one thing scarier than a maniac with a chainsaw.

notthebee.com

 

[andrew_ln65]

I have one of the " kinetic" splitters. Bit of a toy compared to these commercial/farming type ones but it's great for my outer suburban homeowner use burning ~6 months of the year. It's basically 2 big flywheels then a rack & pinion with a lever to engage the rack onto the smashy bit. Cycle time is 2-3 seconds. I can split way faster than the Mrs can stack. We only burn Eucalyptus and it gets through everything including stuff I can just barely lift onto it.

I have previously made a blade for splitting in the shop press but it was painfully slow.

 

[[486]]

I have previously made a blade for splitting in the shop press but it was painfully slow.

rofl

I kinda want to get one of them useless manual log splitters (with the bottle jack that has two pumps on it) to convert into a c-frame press for pressing little stuff

 

[BUCKLAND]

rofl

I kinda want to get one of them useless manual log splitters (with the bottle jack that has two pumps on it) to convert into a c-frame press for pressing little stuff

Why not just an arbor press, or are you thinking about it being more portable?

 

[[486]]

Why not just an arbor press, or are you thinking about it being more portable?

arbor presses don't show up for $20

 

[Wades_76_cj7]

for those of you that are using a saw more than just a hobby how are you sharpening your chains? I hand file in the field but I am looking at picking up a bench grinder to fix some chains that I hit dirt or found some embedded wire in trees.

would be sharpening 1/4" chains for my little top handle and pole saw, a .325" for my 026, and 3/8" chains on my 362, 044 and 660.

I run Stihl chains and for the 044 and 660 chains they call for a 5.2mm file over the small 3/8" chain which is 4.8mm i believe.

I guess my question is what bench grinder do you use? and secondly can i use a 4.8mm grinding wheel on all 3/8" chains?

WLDWUN

 

[TrikeKid]

I'd consider myself an aggressive home gamer when it comes to saws, I have one of these Vevor knock offs of a Tecomec grinder. I only use it if a chain is real bad or I have a bunch to sharpen at once I'd love to have a square grinder but they're big money

VEVOR Electric Chainsaw Blade Sharpener – 230W, 3000 RPM

Need sharper cuts fast? VEVOR electric chainsaw blade sharpener offers 230W power and 3000 RPM for 1/4"–2/5" chains. Get pro results instantly & shop now!

www.vevor.com

Regular sharpening I just hand file. 7/32" for 3/8 and larger, 3/16 for .325 and smaller. Buy good files (I like Pferd and Vallorbe) and it doesn't take that long. Get a raker gauge and use it, you'd be surprised how inconsistent even a brand new chain is.

 

[Pony_Driver]

for those of you that are using a saw more than just a hobby how are you sharpening your chains? I hand file in the field but I am looking at picking up a bench grinder to fix some chains that I hit dirt or found some embedded wire in trees.

would be sharpening 1/4" chains for my little top handle and pole saw, a .325" for my 026, and 3/8" chains on my 362, 044 and 660.

I run Stihl chains and for the 044 and 660 chains they call for a 5.2mm file over the small 3/8" chain which is 4.8mm i believe.

I guess my question is what bench grinder do you use? and secondly can i use a 4.8mm grinding wheel on all 3/8" chains?

WLDWUN

I use Stihl files in a Stihl holder, the one with the file for the rakers too. You can get a blue Pferd version a little cheaper. I had a grinding stone for the dremel that I used a few time years ago. IN the end it is just easier for me to sharpen by hand than to take each chain off and over to the bench where I'd sharpen them using an old bar as a guide.

 

[BUCKLAND]

Pferds in 7/32, 3/16 and 5/32. Works great, hand file anything in relatively short time.

 

[Wades_76_cj7]

I use a Stihl 2n1 file as well as a round file to touch up by hand.

 

[Krackle959]

Hand file my chains with Pferds files as well. Buy them buy the dozen for each size. Been hand filing since I was a teenager, old man showed me the ropes. He’d laugh when I screwed up filing a chain and was quick to show me my mistakes. Also great advice on a raker gauge, I’d been eye balling it based on chip size, but was still inconsistent.

I did buy a 2in1 file for the 592XP as 28” bar or 32” bar with full comp chains takes awhile compared to my 18” or 24” bar saws. The 2in1 took a bit to get used to, but it gives good results.

 

[TrikeKid]

I'm sure Gordy will have a Black Friday sale like everyone else but they're cheap enough at regular price. I prefer the progressive gauges like WCS does, also makes more sense to me to put an angle on the front of the raker instead of just knocking the top down like the Oregon gauges.

Saw Depth Plate | Raker Gauge | Westcoast Saw

Set precise raker heights on full-comp, semi-skip, and full-skip chains. This plate ensures accuracy and features a rail bar-cleaning edge on the WCS logo side.

westcoastsaw.com

 

[Chevy_man]

I'm sure Gordy will have a Black Friday sale like everyone else but they're cheap enough at regular price. I prefer the progressive gauges like WCS does, also makes more sense to me to put an angle on the front of the raker instead of just knocking the top down like the Oregon gauges.

Saw Depth Plate | Raker Gauge | Westcoast Saw

Set precise raker heights on full-comp, semi-skip, and full-skip chains. This plate ensures accuracy and features a rail bar-cleaning edge on the WCS logo side.

westcoastsaw.com

Yup. Hand file and raker gauges.

I have some oak blocks in my vise, toss the saw on the bench with the bar in the vise, crank the chain tension up, and use the brake. The hardest part of hand filling is holding the saw.

 

[back woods]

Husqvarna Intensive Cut files are my favorite for hand filing.

 

[NPKennny]

Wades_76_cj7

Oregon 511a for a round grinder. Small flat file and a progressive depth gauge for rakers.

I use Foley Belsaw diamond wheels in my grinder to make it easier.

I hand file most of my chains, though.

I find myself using the grinder when I touch up friends and neighbors chains. I have such great neighbors that I find ziplock bags of awful chains hanging on my gate.

I typically clamp the saw by the bar in my vise for hand filing and raker work.