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CC Build: Porsche 996 to LS1 Conversion

Bebop said:
uhhhh
Easily changing parameters is literally the reason why you'd get an aftermarket ECU.




103mm TB is way too much for your engine.

As far as reliability I haven't heard many bad things about Nick Williams, they are generally considered to be good units.
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I don’t want to change parameters. You’re right about the software but wrong about the execution of that swap. LS3 throttle body is preprogrammed into the Terminator X software. A BRZ DBW throttle body is not and would need the parameters programmed and dialed in. I have no desires to add a custom table (again) for a component that’s not only using a split pigtail (this is a risk in itself) and having to find those values and fine tune. No thanks.

LS3 throttle body is 4”, around 100mm. LS3 is larger than I need but not useless and it’s a direct swap. The ported LS2 intake flows well and that’s why I wanted max airflow. The linked TBs are 103mm, basically same-same but different. But still same. :flipoff2:
 
LS3 TB is 90mm, which is plenty for your engine.
Going to a 100+ will only hurt part throttle drivability.
 
Bebop said:
LS3 TB is 90mm, which is plenty for your engine.
Going to a 100+ will only hurt part throttle drivability.
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Ah you're right, I took my tube OD as the TB diameter. I don't want the 103, I only posted that as the reference for size. Thanks for taking notice.
 
Bebop said:
LS3 TB is 90mm, which is plenty for your engine.
Going to a 100+ will only hurt part throttle drivability.
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I've yet to find a DBW 90mm (or 92mm) throttle body with the same style of low profile actuator. I think you're right about part throttle driveability, but I may not have a choice if I want to split into 2 airboxes with a Y. My current street tune only allows 50% throttle opening, so maybe I could do the same and lower the opening to 30-40%. It's worked well for me with the LS3 TB.

edit: I think this is because the OEM gen 4 TB is 87mm and most people use those. I haven't researched OEM options in a while, so I'll dig into that before buying a NW 103 at $750+.
 
Get a truck 87mm TB and stop dwelling on the .3 hp you may loose if it makes the intake work a lot better.

And if you're that hell bent about 3mm (Lol) send it to Mamo

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Bebop said:
Get a truck 87mm TB and stop dwelling on the .3 hp you may loose if it makes the intake work a lot better.

And if you're that hell bent about 3mm (Lol) send it to Mamo

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Thanks, Mamo looks great. I might still go this route, but I wasn't worried about 3mm. I care about the tune that's based on the stock LS3 TB and the work I've put into it.

Update: The 996 is completely ready to wrap finally. I have some buddies coming over this weekend to help wrap it. Crossing my fingers that it goes well and I'll be renewing my YouTube certification beforehand. I'm pausing work on the airbox until I have more time to dedicate to it, if any. For now, I'll probably buy a longer cylinder air filter from Uni and hand bend some aluminum sheet to act as a barrier. I also want to buy a Bamboo Carbon X1 since I sold my old workhorse Flashforge Creator Pro a while ago. I want to print the airbox myself and want a new printer anyway.

Fikse wheels are 80% assembled, need to seal them, install valve stems, and check torque. Very excited for these! Going to slap on some new NT01s soon. Where is the best place to buy tires from these days? I've been going to Discount Tire for years but have heard there are some better vendors specifically for street/track tires.

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Lastly, I've been wanting to color change all the SS brackets I've made. I bought a Caswell blackening kit for SS and followed their instructions. Awful coating quality, I'm glad I tested it before doing all my brackets.This was the result, Caswell on the right, Steel-It on the left.

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The steelit came out SO much better that I coated all my brackets with it. I love it!

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gtxracer2 said:
Thanks, Mamo looks great. I might still go this route, but I wasn't worried about 3mm. I care about the tune that's based on the stock LS3 TB and the work I've put into it.

Update: The 996 is completely ready to wrap finally. I have some buddies coming over this weekend to help wrap it. Crossing my fingers that it goes well and I'll be renewing my YouTube certification beforehand. I'm pausing work on the airbox until I have more time to dedicate to it, if any. For now, I'll probably buy a longer cylinder air filter from Uni and hand bend some aluminum sheet to act as a barrier. I also want to buy a Bamboo Carbon X1 since I sold my old workhorse Flashforge Creator Pro a while ago. I want to print the airbox myself and want a new printer anyway.

Fikse wheels are 80% assembled, need to seal them, install valve stems, and check torque. Very excited for these! Going to slap on some new NT01s soon. Where is the best place to buy tires from these days? I've been going to Discount Tire for years but have heard there are some better vendors specifically for street/track tires.

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Ooh La la.
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cant say i've used the blackening for stainless, but i use a ton of it on mild steel.

it never really looks great with just the blackening, i always scotch brite it and then top coat with a wax. its a real popular look for sheet steel fireplace surrounds around here.


but in any case i would hate to coat all those parts. steel it is for sure the better choice
 
tracyb said:
cant say i've used the blackening for stainless, but i use a ton of it on mild steel.

it never really looks great with just the blackening, i always scotch brite it and then top coat with a wax. its a real popular look for sheet steel fireplace surrounds around here.


but in any case i would hate to coat all those parts. steel it is for sure the better choice
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Thanks for telling me. Maybe I'll try again with another project. I was tempted to use the sealer they gave me and thought it would help. I just didn't like the uneven finish. It doesn't look refined and professional. Yet spraying a can of black stainless liquid does. :laughing:

Had some time to start putting the painted brackets in the frunk. I like the cleaner look.

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Back from the dead...

It's been a while and quite a few things have changed. We moved, have a larger garage and a detached shop that I might have access to in the future. Pretty stoked on the new house, tons of land, peace and quiet, and much less house maintenance problems to deal with. About 1/3 of my free time was dealing with issues around the house we were in. 7 plumbing leaks in 2 years plus 2 sewage backups in the lower level. I had enough and found a new place and so far it's much better.

Right before the move, I tried wrapping the 911 with a couple friends and it went....poorly. It took us about 4 hours to partially wrap the roof and it looked quite bad. I threw in the towel and called a few friends that knew wrap installers in the PNW. I found one in particular that is a fantastic installer with this metallic green material and knew how to handle it. She completed the entire car in 3 days in my own garage without any fuss. I'll be using her for all wrap related jobs including tint from now on.

I also finished the frunk refresh and amp install. It came out super clean and I'm pretty happy with the results.

What are most people using for a 4" clamp on style cone or cylinder air filter? K&N is not my preferred choice and Uni Filter is mostly for off road. Paper filters are my preference but wanted to ask if there's been a change in the industry recently for street applications.

Tires have been ordered, I should have them by next week. They're NT555s, not the NT01s I wanted, but the sidewalls are thicc and juicy, so it's a good compromise. We'll see if they fit. 255/45/18 and 315/40/18.

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Well I took a gamble…and lost. :homer:

I was planning to roll the fenders and install adjustable arms. At this point, I don’t want to keep dumping cash into the car and I want to start enjoying it. This means I just want to bolt on the wheels and tires and not have to deal with massaging the suspension or fenders.

The 2.5” lips on the rear are about 1/2” too far out. I could pull them in with camber and roll the fenders and they would probably barely tuck. Instead of going that route, I’m going to find some 1.5” lips that’ll let the tires tuck under the rear fenders without rolling or camber adjustments.

If someone sees a better way to fix the current problem (ie my mistake lol), please let me know. Otherwise this is the plan.

Anyway…here’s some pics with the giant NT555s that I am also on the fence about. :laughing:



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My personal opinion

Those tires are too big for the car. Certainly in the rear.

. Some of the cool factor with 3 piece wheels is you now only need the lips. And don’t need rolling or expensive suspension to fit. Might make for a sporty ride with a little less contact patch - but you will be saving some rotating mass
 
How is your gearing currently?

Would you benefit from smaller rolling circumference and thus shorter overall gearing?

Assuming those wheels are about the smallest you can fit over the rotors?
Without rereading, do you have a sway bar in the rear?

Running some basic tire temps and a chalk test may help dial in your suspension after some spirited canyon driving
 
XtremeJ said:
How is your gearing currently?

Would you benefit from smaller rolling circumference and thus shorter overall gearing?

Assuming those wheels are about the smallest you can fit over the rotors?
Without rereading, do you have a sway bar in the rear?

Running some basic tire temps and a chalk test may help dial in your suspension after some spirited canyon driving
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Gearing is somewhat long, but the torque of the LS makes it so I can accelerate in any gear. Cruises at higher rpm than I like, around 3000 at 70mph. These tires would’ve made that a lot easier. There’s a sway bar front and rear. Could probably fit a 17” wheel. Still need to install the Ohlins and set new camber.

I agree, the tires are a bit too large. I have another set of rears I could fit and compare. I think it would look a lot better if they were tucked but I also think they’re about 15% too large. Some thickness to the sidewall looks good but this is a bit much. Maybe I’ll just run it for a while and when they’re gone, buy what I should’ve gotten. Hah.
 
Firstram said:
That could be 2 or 20k miles, it depends on how badly you want a different size:grinpimp:
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The size is starting to grow on me. If the car was lowered a bit, and the rears tucked, I think I would have achieved the look I want. We'll see once I get the new lips and Ohlins installed.
 
Big ass whale tale and some ricey rear flares and they might work. It won't look classy like a Porsche should though.
 
Lurker said:
Big ass whale tale and some ricey rear flares and they might work. It won't look classy like a Porsche should though.
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Wouldn't mind a GT3 RS wing with the air scoops, but don't think these cars look good with wide fenders. The whole design of these cars was meant to be smooth and straight, with very little curvature in the fenders. I actually like curves, it's just that this body doesn't look that great with them.

This is the only one I've seen that doesn't look awful, and it's mostly the angle that hides the bond lines. I can't stand bond lines between wide body kits and the original sheet metal, it looks unfinished to me. So I won't even start that. :laughing:

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gtxracer2 said:
The whole design of these cars was meant to be smooth and straight, with very little curvature in the fenders. I actually like curves, it's just that this body doesn't look that great with them.


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Totally agree

You have plenty of surprises in that car, I see no need to advertise it from the outside
 
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