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Buy or Build trailer?

CarterKraft said:
RE: Your trailer
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So how much additional stiffness do you think those sides are adding? It does make it a truss basically.

I could certainly add something like that if it really helps.

This is all making my brain hurt, 2x3 .120 seems fine to my brain, but I could be very wrong.
 
This is the last trailer I built, it was all .095 (maybe even .085?) 2x2

14471737411_48dd7d0baa_h.jpg
 
Java230 said:
So how much additional stiffness do you think those sides are adding? It does make it a truss basically.

I could certainly add something like that if it really helps.

This is all making my brain hurt, 2x3 .120 seems fine to my brain, but I could be very wrong.
Click to expand...
I think you are way over thinking this on a single axle 6x10 trailer....

The sides add a huge amount of strength, basically think of a 12" I beam instead of a 3" tall tube.
If you see a angle iron trailer it will usually have pipe top sides because that is the only way to get the strength needed.
 
CarterKraft said:
I think you are way over thinking this on a single axle 6x10 trailer....

The sides add a huge amount of strength, basically think of a 12" I beam instead of a 3" tall tube.
If you see a angle iron trailer it will usually have pipe top sides because that is the only way to get the strength needed.
Click to expand...
Probably way over thinking. I'm trying to do a build it once and beefy kind of thing. I don't want to need something else for a long time.

I will do sides at some point. I was thinking stake pocket sides, but if it adds a ton of strength at not much weight penalty I can do it now.

I'm trying to balance weight of trailer vs beef needed if that makes sense. Sure I could make it all out of 1/4 wall tube, but it would be way heavy if 1/8 wall works fine for my intended loads (3k max ish)
 
Java230 said:
Probably way over thinking. I'm trying to do a build it once and beefy kind of thing. I don't want to need something else for a long time.

I will do sides at some point. I was thinking stake pocket sides, but if it adds a ton of strength at not much weight penalty I can do it now.

I'm trying to balance weight of trailer vs beef needed if that makes sense. Sure I could make it all out of 1/4 wall tube, but it would be way heavy if 1/8 wall works fine for my intended loads (3k max ish)
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You don't want permanent sides if you can avoid it. Use 4" channel legs in for the sides. It's strong, it won't rust out from the inside and you can hook a ratchet strap anywhere on the trailer.
 
I made my own 5x10 to haul golf carts and SXS and other small things.
Don't over think it, it's a trailer...

Mine was a mix of 3" and 2" channel, some 2.5" tube for the hitch / spine, it did fine.
Easier to register a home build trailer in California, so I assume other states are just as easy.
 
And here's a 2x3 weight chart, you would have to go up to almost 3/16 to match the weight of the channel.

1705424868534.png
 
Yes, .120 tube is 1.5 lbs lighter per foot.
But... channel would be est. 172 lbs for both rails and tube would be 108 lbs for a 64 lb difference.
Does that really matter over the course of a 14' trailer?
 
CarterKraft said:
Yes, .120 tube is 1.5 lbs lighter per foot.
But... channel would be est. 172 lbs for both rails and tube would be 108 lbs for a 64 lb difference.
Does that really matter over the course of a 14' trailer?
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No, probably does not matter. And if I'm reading the graphs correctly, the channel is stiffer. How much does the twisting stiffness of tube matter versus channel? This will be on Forest Service Roads a fair bit. But it may not matter in the end?

My only complaint, is cross members are harder on channel.:lmao:
 
Java230 said:
Probably way over thinking. I'm trying to do a build it once and beefy kind of thing. I don't want to need something else for a long time.

I will do sides at some point. I was thinking stake pocket sides, but if it adds a ton of strength at not much weight penalty I can do it now.

I'm trying to balance weight of trailer vs beef needed if that makes sense. Sure I could make it all out of 1/4 wall tube, but it would be way heavy if 1/8 wall works fine for my intended loads (3k max ish)
Click to expand...
you know that ultimately... someone will tell you it needs more triangulation... :flipoff2:
 
Grendel said:
Is it done yet?

Holy Analysis Paralysis Batman.

:flipoff2:
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Sorry! I have never built a larger or heavier Duty trailer....... I know there's a lot of smart people here, that's why I asked.
 
Java230 said:
Sorry! I have never built a larger or heavier Duty trailer....... I know there's a lot of smart people here, that's why I asked.
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Teasing... but as said by anyone here, any material you're overthinking about will work... you're set on using tubing, so get after it. :flipoff2:
 
CarterKraft said:
I think you are way over thinking this on a single axle 6x10 trailer....

The sides add a huge amount of strength, basically think of a 12" I beam instead of a 3" tall tube.
Click to expand...
When you start talking about trusses made from 3/16 thick angle and 2" pipe (i.e. a typical trailer) and zero triangulation that kind of breaks down because the "12 inch beam" folds sideways before the 6" channel would have bent.

But yeah, if constructed with proper triangulation and with something to keep it from folding in/out it would be pretty fucking strong and on the order of a 12" beam.
 
OK. 4" channel, I need exactly 50LF for my main frame and tongue, thats only 270lbs @5.4lb/ft. WAY less than I expected for some reason..... That is with a 3'6" tongue, which gives 9'6 ball to axle CL.

Cross member material? 2" channel? Angle?
 
Java230 said:
OK. 4" channel, I need exactly 50LF for my main frame and tongue, thats only 270lbs @5.4lb/ft. WAY less than I expected for some reason..... That is with a 3'6" tongue, which gives 9'6 ball to axle CL.

Cross member material? 2" channel? Angle?
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You like tube, why not 2" tube fully welded to the channel.
 
If you go with channel then I would personally keep going that route for the rust issue.
An Angle would be perfect for that.

Same rules as before a taller section is stronger regardless of thickness (within reason).
If you can get a 2x4 angle 2" leg horizontal under the floor you will have a stout floor.
 
CarterKraft said:
If you go with channel then I would personally keep going that route for the rust issue.
An Angle would be perfect for that.

Same rules as before a taller section is stronger regardless of thickness (within reason).
If you can get a 2x4 angle 2" leg horizontal under the floor you will have a stout floor.
Click to expand...
I was thinking about keeping the decking flush with the top of the mainframe. So it only be two and a half inches tall. I could do a lighter 2" C.

In your guys's far more savvy opinion, is 5.4 lb per foot seat thick enough if I want to put 3,000 lb on it?
 
Java230 said:
I was thinking about keeping the decking flush with the top of the mainframe. So it only be two and a half inches tall. I could do a lighter 2" C.

In your guys's far more savvy opinion, is 5.4 lb per foot seat thick enough if I want to put 3,000 lb on it?
Click to expand...
3000 lbs of sand or a milling machine @ 3k lbs?
 
arse_sidewards said:
When you start talking about trusses made from 3/16 thick angle and 2" pipe (i.e. a typical trailer) and zero triangulation that kind of breaks down because the "12 inch beam" folds sideways before the 6" channel would have bent.

But yeah, if constructed with proper triangulation and with something to keep it from folding in/out it would be pretty fucking strong and on the order of a 12" beam.
Click to expand...
I am not really interested in discussing or learning quantum mechanics in regards to a 6'x10' trailer...

I was trying to illustrate a point and if you would be so kind as to run the calculations for the actual strength of the poorly designed "truss" I am sure the class would really benefit.
 
Lowrollin70gmc said:
4" channel tongue to spring hangers, 4" channel frame, 3" channel crossmembers, 5/4 (1" true) decking.

Makes everything nice and flush top and bottom, plus shouldn't be too heavy compared to mass produced junk.
Click to expand...
Basically my plan, I was just going to use to 2x material for the decking
 
CarterKraft said:
I am not really interested in discussing or learning quantum mechanics in regards to a 6'x10' trailer...
Click to expand...
I'm just saying a little triangulation goes a long way. Most commercial trailer aren't properly triangulated so you don't get the full benefit of the strength of the material.

CarterKraft said:
I was trying to illustrate a point and if you would be so kind as to run the calculations for the actual strength of the poorly designed "truss" I am sure the class would really benefit.
Click to expand...
We both know I don't have the $$ for those kinds of software licenses.:laughing:

But someone who does should definitely run a typical commercial trailer vs the same thing with triangulation added.
 
arse_sidewards said:
I'm just saying a little triangulation goes a long way. Most commercial trailer aren't properly triangulated so you don't get the full benefit of the strength of the material.


We both know I don't have the $$ for those kinds of software licenses.:laughing:

But someone who does should definitely run a typical commercial trailer vs the same thing with triangulation added.
Click to expand...

Free Online Roof Truss Calculator | SkyCiv Engineering

This free online roof truss calculator generates the axial forces and reactions of completely customizable 2D truss structures, perfect for roof truss design.
skyciv.com
 
Lowrollin70gmc said:
4" channel tongue to spring hangers, 4" channel frame, 3" channel crossmembers, 5/4 (1" true) decking.

Makes everything nice and flush top and bottom, plus shouldn't be too heavy compared to mass produced junk.
Click to expand...
I built this exact trailer in 1992, used it for 10 years and sold it to a friend for $500. He's still using it, including the original $100 mobile home axle and springs! Fuck the haters :grinpimp:
 
Did a very scientific bend test of 2x2 1/8" angle for the cross vars. Seems like a lot of flex! It wasn't attached either end but it moved a lot.
 
Java230 said:
Did a very scientific bend test of 2x2 1/8" angle for the cross vars. Seems like a lot of flex! It wasn't attached either end but it moved a lot.
Click to expand...
I did aoad calc of that material and it wasn't super hot like over 1.3" with a 150 point load in the center but it's harder for me to calculate the load spread to the other cross members via the floor.
 
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