Busted cords

So I took it for a ride. Since I lowered the tire pressure, it was good enough vibration wise, but it was still making a wash-wah-wah sound. After shaving that one tire, the sound got less. (Maybe my imagination)

Anyways, I set it up on the other front tire.

IMG_2603.jpeg


Than took it for another test drive. The sound was about the same. I had no noticeable bounce, but maybe a little more vibration. So I guess I need to set up the balancer again. I may drive it on a couple hour trip first to see what happens as the tread blocks ware flat again.
 
How do you not see how that will work? They are made to do exactly what you are doing just not in a ******ed fashion.
Those are for cutting grooves. I’m trying to lower the tread blocks nice and even. If I mounted that so the face of the grinding wheel could sand the tire, it would bog down the grinder. I have a very course grinding wheel and I already tried it. It sucked. Even this little saw can get bogged down in that rubber.

What I think would be nice is a rotary rasp. Maybe like 4” dia. Get it spinning and spin the tire the other way to shave a wide section of tread. I don’t know if they make such a thing and it might require a lot of motor.
 
Those are for cutting grooves. I’m trying to lower the tread blocks nice and even. If I mounted that so the face of the grinding wheel could sand the tire, it would bog down the grinder. I have a very course grinding wheel and I already tried it. It sucked. Even this little saw can get bogged down in that rubber.

What I think would be nice is a rotary rasp. Maybe like 4” dia. Get it spinning and spin the tire the other way to shave a wide section of tread. I don’t know if they make such a thing and it might require a lot of motor.

Holy **** you are stupid. This is a ****ing tire groover....

Screenshot_20250716_165516_Samsung Internet.jpg


And this is a tire siper head for said groover...

Screenshot_20250716_165753_Samsung Internet.jpg
 
Those are for cutting grooves. I’m trying to lower the tread blocks nice and even. If I mounted that so the face of the grinding wheel could sand the tire, it would bog down the grinder. I have a very course grinding wheel and I already tried it. It sucked. Even this little saw can get bogged down in that rubber.

What I think would be nice is a rotary rasp. Maybe like 4” dia. Get it spinning and spin the tire the other way to shave a wide section of tread. I don’t know if they make such a thing and it might require a lot of motor.

Chainsaw in a fixture........
 
Not the same tire but I had old Goodyear MTs from a Humvee. ****ing things looked fine but rode square.

Even with Centramatic rings (the bigger HMMWV versions too) they still sucked.

Finally said goodbye to surplus tires and bought new tires.

Also not all belt failure is visible from what I've seen. Sure a bulge or even a weird runout in the tread that is visible would make sense but you may not notice it until there is weight on the tire going down the road. Hence why balancers now so road force variation.
 
What I think would be nice is a rotary rasp. Maybe like 4” dia. Get it spinning and spin the tire the other way to shave a wide section of tread. I don’t know if they make such a thing and it might require a lot of motor.
Horizontal mill arbor. Stack cutters and go to town.

A roughing end mill would probably work too.
 
Those are for cutting grooves. I’m trying to lower the tread blocks nice and even. If I mounted that so the face of the grinding wheel could sand the tire, it would bog down the grinder. I have a very course grinding wheel and I already tried it. It sucked. Even this little saw can get bogged down in that rubber.

What I think would be nice is a rotary rasp. Maybe like 4” dia. Get it spinning and spin the tire the other way to shave a wide section of tread. I don’t know if they make such a thing and it might require a lot of motor.
The discs he linked are literally rotary rasps...

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How’s that any different than the HF carbide disc?

While those work on tires a wood blade with a proper tooth removes material a ton faster.
 
I’m talking about this. It works fine on rubber but you really want bigger chips. I don’t see the speedway stuff doing much better. Wood stuff does categorically better in my experience.
IMG_3877.png
 
Chainsaw in a fixture........

Sounds scary, but it could work.

Horizontal mill arbor. Stack cutters and go to town.

A roughing end mill would probably work too.

I like the roughing end mill idea. I think you would really have to spin it fast. Probably would get too hot. That saw starts smoking when I cut too deep.

The discs he linked are literally rotary rasps...

When I said rotary, I ment like a tube. Think 4” dia toilet paper tube. Those discs are going to cut just like my saw.
 
I was thinking it was a perfect application for a chainsaw grinder wheel.
Someone should make one in drum form. :laughing:

Probably would get too hot.
Garden hose, though you forgoe the ability to easily vacuum up the dust with this option.
That saw starts smoking when I cut too deep.
Because you're side loading the teeth and the rubber is deforming and being dragged across the tooth before the next tooth of the blade swings in there and nabs it, which is in turn rubbed by the next incremental piece of rubber as it does so.

If you mounted the saw at an angle and kept the axis of movement cross-ways this would somewhat solve it.
 
A planer or joiner type cutter would likely also be a decent solution if you could find one cheap.

Someone should really just make an attachment for a tire balancer that does this. :laughing:
 
I guess I’m a dumb ****. I totally don’t understand what that is or how it works. I don’t follow the four pics either.
 
I guess I’m a dumb ****. I totally don’t understand what that is or how it works. I don’t follow the four pics either.
Chainsaw attachment for trimming spray foam insulation. Probably not suitable for tires but the sketch factor would be right at home in this thread :laughing:
 
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