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Build me a Garage (Gofundme plz)

Icono said:
Pic of the compressor?
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I posted a pic in my wall mount thread. I need to consolidate my threads into this one or make a new one specifically about the container and move all relevant information.

Has anyone seen a retracting cord like this that isn't motorized? I could plumb in a battery but I'd rather just reel it up and make things simple:

www.rvupgradestore.com

Glendinning CRRA50-12-36 Cablemaster Motorized 50A Power Cord Reel - 36 Ft

Handling your bulky RV power cable has never been easier with the Glendinning Cablemaster Power Cord Reel. Simply pull out how much cable you need from the reel, then retract easily with the built-in 'zero-effort' retraction motor.
www.rvupgradestore.com

I don't understand how the cord doesn't kink rolling out and back in all the time?
 
[memphis] said:
I posted a pic in my wall mount thread. I need to consolidate my threads into this one or make a new one specifically about the container and move all relevant information.

Has anyone seen a retracting cord like this that isn't motorized? I could plumb in a battery but I'd rather just reel it up and make things simple:

www.rvupgradestore.com

Glendinning CRRA50-12-36 Cablemaster Motorized 50A Power Cord Reel - 36 Ft

Handling your bulky RV power cable has never been easier with the Glendinning Cablemaster Power Cord Reel. Simply pull out how much cable you need from the reel, then retract easily with the built-in 'zero-effort' retraction motor.
www.rvupgradestore.com

I don't understand how the cord doesn't kink rolling out and back in all the time?
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What the hell do you think you need that for???
 
Muckin_Slusher said:
What the hell do you think you need that for???
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I want to power the container with 50 amps and plug into my house where I installed a 60 amp outdoor subpanel. I want to hardwire the container and use the RV cord to provide that power for 240v and 120v. I do not need power retracting... originally I wanted to just use a wall mounted male RV twist lock but someone above said those are not the best quality.

I don't think they make an RV 14-50P recessed plug? This link is 30 amp but you should get the gist of what I am trying to do... I don't want to snake a cord through the container doors and I will eventually be installing a man door and won't use the front doors much...

30AMP RV Power Inlet Receptacle, RV Power Plug Twist Lock Inlet, Female Twist Locking Connector with Weatherproof Cover Boot Kit - Fits for RV Trailer Boat Caravan Camper Truck Yacht Power Cord : Amazon.ca: Automotive

30AMP RV Power Inlet Receptacle, RV Power Plug Twist Lock Inlet, Female Twist Locking Connector with Weatherproof Cover Boot Kit - Fits for RV Trailer Boat Caravan Camper Truck Yacht Power Cord : Amazon.ca: Automotive
www.amazon.ca
 
Muckin_Slusher said:
You're usually trying to save money.

You can't just coil the cable and hang on the wall?
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100% I can do that but do you have any recommendations to plug an extension cord into a hardline? I guess I could do the above recommendation with a range cord to a box and maybe stick it inside an ammo can? I am trying to get rid of plugging multiple extension cords together.

I could also do the illegal thing and make an extension cord with two male 14-50P ends on it. That way I can just have a 14-50R box on the outside of the container and plug in and run my hardwire from there.
 
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Is this what you need?


51sIe1XHHCL._AC_SL1064_.jpg
 
Muckin_Slusher said:
Is this what you need?


51sIe1XHHCL._AC_SL1064_.jpg
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I can use that but above someone said that it is garbage... ^ That is the easy solution and then yes I can just spool up the cord on a hook easy peasy. I did just find this but the website looks a bit sketch:

www.corddepot.com

50 Amp Power Inlet Boxes With 14-50

50 amp power inlet boxes have a 14-50P configuration
www.corddepot.com www.corddepot.com

That was what I was hunting for originally...


Bingo! I didn't see this at PA on my trip this week but they have them in stock! https://www.princessauto.com/en/50a-flanged-male-range-generator-plug/product/PA0008953234
 
You could just enter the extension cord cable into whatever panel you want, and use a strain relief connector if you're really worried about it.

I'd just enter it with whatever connector, install some clamps, and not yank on it.

WDK_WireCableHoseMgt_Grips_StrainRelief_300.jpg
 
I started brain storming again while I was rocking the kiddo to sleep. I have the following panel on the outside of my house:


I could simply buy another one I suppose and make the container it’s own eco system. I figure by the time I buy outlets and everything else I am not that far off the cost of this panel. It was $180 when I bought it in 2020… thanks Covid

But if I run a 14-50p extension cord from the panel/container to my “shore power” that solves a lot of headaches and gets me 240v and 120v inside the can. I would probably swap the 14-50r plug for a 6-50r instead of monkeying with the adapter cord I have.
 
So you're planning to plug a cable from the container to your RV panel every time you need power out there? Why not just bury a feed off that RV panel straight to another sub in the container? Pretty sure it'll be cheaper than a retractable reel for that size wire.
 
bgaidan said:
So you're planning to plug a cable from the container to your RV panel every time you need power out there? Why not just bury a feed off that RV panel straight to another sub in the container?
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Kinda like my shop... Hardwired, but I got lazy and haven't buried it. :laughing:
 
bgaidan said:
So you're planning to plug a cable from the container to your RV panel every time you need power out there? Why not just bury a feed off that RV panel straight to another sub in the container? Pretty sure it'll be cheaper than a retractable reel for that size wire.
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Exactly this... where the wire is, it is not an easily place to bury (must go under 15ft of concrete and then asphalt). I don't work in the container daily and unfortunately my project sits for weeks at a time so unraveling a cord is not the end of the world for me. I didn't want to buy a $1000 retractor but it would be nice to just roll it up inside the container and have the male plug on the outside to pull out and plug in.

I am seeing a lot of teck cable on market place but I assume this stuff shouldn't be coiled up and uncoiled much? Seeing how it should be direct burial/permanent?
 
[memphis] said:
I am seeing a lot of teck cable on market place but I assume this stuff shouldn't be coiled up and uncoiled much? Seeing how it should be direct burial/permanent?
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Construction sites leave it exposed for months at a time... feeding temp power, trailers, cranes, etc.

Build yourself a cable-protecting speed bump from PT lumber or something.
 
Temporary 120v power installed so now I can plug in and the lights are on before I open the door!
 

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Bandsaw can now easily move in and out of the workspace I hope! I need to redrill the leg bolts I eyeballed and totally fucked up. It took 3.5hrs to get it on the dolly solo.

Ugly and okay welds to rip on (posted in ugly GCC thread hehe). Flux and 1/16 box tube doesn’t mix well
 

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Just as a follow up... bandsaw is too fn' heavy to get into the container with my aluminum ramp HA! It does roll nicely down the driveway. I really want a smaller one. The cart wasn't a total waste of time... good practice on thinner material. I am hoping someone will trade me for a good used smaller USA bandsaw if one exists?

I didn't take pictures but I had to use my high lift as a come along to winch it back into the container. I guess I should add a real come along to my list. I also have the 8274 on the jeep but I haven't bought a snatch block smacks head
 
[memphis] said:
Just as a follow up... bandsaw is too fn' heavy to get into the container with my aluminum ramp HA! It does roll nicely down the driveway. I really want a smaller one. The cart wasn't a total waste of time... good practice on thinner material. I am hoping someone will trade me for a good used smaller USA bandsaw if one exists?

I didn't take pictures but I had to use my high lift as a come along to winch it back into the container. I guess I should add a real come along to my list. I also have the 8274 on the jeep but I haven't bought a snatch block smacks head
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Time for a sticking out I-beam from the container.

This the come-a-long you want!
Maasdam Rope Puller (they're the guys that made the orange jack-alls.

713fde7a-f4d1-4cb4-a313-8f4053e4e9b0._CR0,0,1500,1500_PT0_SX300__.jpg
 
Muckin_Slusher said:
Time for a sticking out I-beam from the container.

This the come-a-long you want!
Maasdam Rope Puller (they're the guys that made the orange jack-alls.

713fde7a-f4d1-4cb4-a313-8f4053e4e9b0._CR0,0,1500,1500_PT0_SX300__.jpg
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Curious why rope over chain? Weight is obvious. I love my Jack-All. Mine is red and blue but made in Kitchener area. I am on the hunt for a second one, I could have used it to get the saw on the cart.

Edit: proof I managed to wheel it in and out!
I would love to get my hands on a Wellsaw 58B. I really don’t want to sell this saw because it cuts so well! I have it listed but really want to trade. Or if I could make the saw truly go vertical I would deal with this space hog!
 

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[memphis] said:
Curious why rope over chain? Weight is obvious. I love my Jack-All. Mine is red and blue but made in Kitchener area. I am on the hunt for a second one, I could have used it to get the saw on the cart.

Edit: proof I managed to wheel it in and out!
I would love to get my hands on a Wellsaw 58B. I really don’t want to sell this saw because it cuts so well! I have it listed but really want to trade. Or if I could make the saw truly go vertical I would deal with this space hog!
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Doesn't look like there's too much keeping you from going vertical, although you would have to fight for standing room with that table sticking out the side.

When you said come-a-long (and were talking pulling) I pictured the old bastard wire rope ones. The one I pictured is way superior to the cable ones, since it's so fast and easy to set length of pull and because you could pull 1000 feet in one shot if you had a 1000 foot rope.

It's not a replacement for a chain lever hoist though. They're two different animals intended for two different jobs.

I use my rope puller lots around the warehouse dragging shit, out in the forest pulling down hung up trees and at the ice shacks putting them on their summer pads.
 
PAToyota said:
Just after you swap this one for a smaller one, you'll have a cut that is beyond the capacity of the smaller one... :flipoff2:
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Current saw is 8”x16” rectangular cut capacity or 8” tube aka nothing automotive sized. It’s a beast of a saw but a lot of tool for a 20ft sea can
 
Muckin_Slusher said:
12 foot is bare minimum.........32 foot trailer (26 foot deck) with sideways skandics.

PA092400.JPG
PA092419.JPG
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Agreed. My doors are 10x13.

I think a single 16 or 18 wide would have been better.

10ft means folding in mirrors.
 
AKnate said:
Agreed. My doors are 10x13.

I think a single 16 or 18 wide would have been better.

10ft means folding in mirrors.
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The door would be wider than my current/updated storage situation lmao
 
Thinking about heat… electric heat is cheap up front; operating costs not so much but MAX run time I can guess 10 hours per month.

Propane, I have to deal with fumes/carbon monoxide… humidity + burning propane will cause more flash rusting. Electric heat is dryer and I won’t have to worry about combustibles

It’s only a 160sq.ft space. Can I buy too big of a heater? Being non-insulated can I assume heating up a 1/8” wall steel box it’s going to be like heating double the floor space because it will be snow covered and the metal shell will be cooling rapidly due to thermal bridging?

Heater on sale:
 
[memphis] said:
Thinking about heat… electric heat is cheap up front; operating costs not so much but MAX run time I can guess 10 hours per month.

Propane, I have to deal with fumes/carbon monoxide… humidity + burning propane will cause more flash rusting. Electric heat is dryer and I won’t have to worry about combustibles

It’s only a 160sq.ft space. Can I buy too big of a heater? Being non-insulated can I assume heating up a 1/8” wall steel box it’s going to be like heating double the floor space because it will be snow covered and the metal shell will be cooling rapidly due to thermal bridging?

Heater on sale:
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jesus fuck no.

Do not buy any heater with a fan. The noise will drive you bananas, and the fan motor will fail in three days.

Buy baseboard heaters instead. If you want air to move around then buy a separate fan. Don't fall for any bullshit about "efficiency" when you're talking about electric heat, they're all 100% efficient. Baseboard will be by far your best bang for the buck and best for longevity.

Buy a line voltage thermostat to control them.

Also, no you cannot buy too big a heater. You could put in a million watt heater and it would heat the place just fine as long as it's on a thermostat and you can support the electrical load.
 
Muckin_Slusher said:
jesus fuck no.

Do not buy any heater with a fan. The noise will drive you bananas, and the fan motor will fail in three days.

Buy baseboard heaters instead. If you want air to move around then buy a separate fan. Don't fall for any bullshit about "efficiency" when you're talking about electric heat, they're all 100% efficient. Baseboard will be by far your best bang for the buck and best for longevity.

Buy a line voltage thermostat to control them.

Also, no you cannot buy too big a heater. You could put in a million watt heater and it would heat the place just fine as long as it's on a thermostat and you can support the electrical load.
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I didn’t even think about base boards. Not that I want them near the floor because floor space is at a premium but I could mount them higher. If I could keep the can at 15C I’d be happy
 
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