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Build: 77 F-150 Ultra4

WiscoF100

Red Skull Member
Joined
Jan 28, 2023
Member Number
5998
Messages
316
Loc
Lake Superior shoreline
One particular reason I haven’t started a new build thread is because there’s not many historical photos on my phone. It should start from the beginning but I would summarize a lot of the process.

This began in 2013. I was itching for another truck to build for rec wheelin in Utah. Any day of the week I could hit the classifieds and choose from a dozen $1,000 trucks. :lmao:

I chose the nicest one. A 77 F-150 XLT. 351M 4 speed and married 205. It was my first 1/2 ton so I was excited about the married case vs all the F-250s I had owned.
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Now I’ll have to open up a computer to catch up from here
 
I’ll keep the 10 year history brief as possible.

The original intent was never to be a race car.

Looking back, it all seems so silly but it was and still is an exercise in art and learning. I wanted so called half doors so I could lean out easier. They were capped eventually.
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Always wanted a boat nose rig. In doing so I attempted a 1 piece tilt hood.
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Truck never saw much action before it progressed into a linked and caged build. It’s a been a hovercraft for most of the years I’ve owned it.
 
Fuckin ultrafaux build

ETA :flipoff2: for sarcasm :flipoff2:
 
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No pictures to show but the idea was part out my 75 F250 which had 33” les Schwab tires and my first 4 link rear. It was built early 2000s and a 33” tire was an impressive purchase blowing an entire weeks paycheck on.

The easy parts swap stalled because this or that was janky or something mismatched or needed an upgrade and it led to a fully dismantled truck within days.

The truck was stripped down and a plan was made to build a fully linked rig on coil overs etc

With enough heckling from the old board the D44/D61 axle plan was dumped and I found a great deal on a KP60/D70HD. This deal also led to a like new set of 37” toyos and many other cool dentside Ford parts from the same guy at prices you wouldn’t believe these days. See first post :lmao:

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Start of the sub frame to be grafted on original frame rails
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The engine used is a 302 that I’ve had kickin around in several projects since 2005. Reliable little engine. Originally set in stock location.
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10 yrs ago the camera taking these pictures was already a relic in itself so the early pictures aren’t crystal clear

Some more subframe integration. In a nut shell, I was trying to mimic all the great influences of the industry. I didn’t know everything but I was thirsty for knowledge and man did I ever make so many mistakes with this build.
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Here’s an example. One minute I’m being a cheap ass or working within “stock” parameters etc. The next I’m buying an NWF blackbox and setting the engine deep into the chassis. Well now all my subframe specs went out the window for transmission clearance.
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The sump was holding everything up much higher than stock. Could’ve zig zagged the subframe but I was worried about link strength and didn’t want a rock anchor hanging below the skid plate.
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Chop chop
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Squared the cut with a mill
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TIG weld some pig iron and now you see 1 of only 2 examples on the internet of a shaved NP435 :flipoff2:
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Just to add a tenth photo, my Dad was able to open the output bearing bore on his mill for the greatly larger NWF Titan 34 spline output

EDIT: just to add, with the flat clocking, I believe one of the holes seen was to relocate an oiling port or drain back. Something like that.
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Was really exciting seeing 37s
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Was even more exciting to see how far back the engine sat in the cab
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Beginning of an extremely heavy pitman arm 🤣 and custom made wrench for removal of the spool valve inside the steering gear
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Shot of the steering piston that was internally limited on both sides. This was achieved at ride height and gathering piston travel with the knuckles on the stops. Steering gear, knuckles and assist cyl all mechanically stopped at ride height.
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Last upload for now. It’s a pain how slow it is to extract these pictures from a dinosaur laptop

My snow Mexican brother in law machined this custom midplate to relocate the starter to 6 o’clock position and a 157 tooth flywheel. (I’m a huge dumbass for this decision later down the road (the 157 tooth)) The starter was moved for aggressive 3 link packaging
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Plated knuckles. Forgot whose kit this was. Old board vendor.
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Four wheel supply steer arms. Super bummed he closed shop during Covid
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Beginning of the cage
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10 yrs ago the camera taking these pictures was already a relic in itself so the early pictures aren’t crystal clear

Some more subframe integration. In a nut shell, I was trying to mimic all the great influences of the industry. I didn’t know everything but I was thirsty for knowledge and man did I ever make so many mistakes with this build.
Here’s an example. One minute I’m being a cheap ass or working within “stock” parameters etc. The next I’m buying an NWF blackbox and setting the engine deep into the chassis. Well now all my subframe specs went out the window for transmission clearance.

The sump was holding everything up much higher than stock. Could’ve zig zagged the subframe but I was worried about link strength and didn’t want a rock anchor hanging below the skid plate.

Chop chop
191.jpeg
198.jpeg

Squared the cut with a mill
201.jpeg

TIG weld some pig iron and now you see 1 of only 2 examples on the internet of a shaved NP435 :flipoff2:
162.jpeg

Just to add a tenth photo, my Dad was able to open the output bearing bore on his mill for the greatly larger NWF Titan 34 spline output

EDIT: just to add, with the flat clocking, I believe one of the holes seen was to relocate an oiling port or drain back. Something like that.
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fuck thats cool:smokin:
 
I ran it without any issues. It holds (imo) plenty of fluid but that’s why I left a small sump in the front just to leave something. Oiling and heat never worried me. I wheeled in Moab, Trail hero, and drove it to many local spots in the first year then it survived KOH 2018 and drove on the trailer. Within moments of leaving the short course my biggest fear all day was the shock loading on the drivetrain racing a manual transmission.

It worked but it was a handicap on our race because of my concern of snapping a shaft. The current rendition is sporting a C6 which is more go-fast appropriate
 
I ran it without any issues. It holds (imo) plenty of fluid but that’s why I left a small sump in the front just to leave something. Oiling and heat never worried me. I wheeled in Moab, Trail hero, and drove it to many local spots in the first year then it survived KOH 2018 and drove on the trailer. Within moments of leaving the short course my biggest fear all day was the shock loading on the drivetrain racing a manual transmission. 8 hours of train wreck sounds but it all survived.

It worked but it was a handicap on our race because of my concern of snapping a shaft. The current rendition is sporting a C6 which is more go-fast appropriate
Good enough then!
 
Drivetrain finished and ready for install. Note the rear axle drums on floor. Numerous times I rolled the chassis out from under the cab checking this or that, mock up final welding etc. This picture was when the cab would rest for good.
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A few days later
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This is where the chassis went all wonky.
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Finished steering gear
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Truck came back to my garage and sat for 6-9 months without me touching a darn thing. I had lost all motivation and just needed to take a break. Let my head absorb more tech and refocus
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Progress started again in this picture as I had finally purchased my own coilovers. The restart actually started out back but I don’t have pictures on my phone of that. Next update will contain the pictures and story of the roll cage etc The next few pictures are a little out of order
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When motivation finally came back to me I started with the disc brake conversion. It was a pirate deal from a member in Maine who had a bunch of D70 goodies. Bump stops were also a forum member. It was a lot of fun buying and selling through the years with other members.
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Once I was ready to start working again. I cut the back off for a clean slate and planning for a TK1 sway bar
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Drivetrain finished and ready for install. Note the rear axle drums on floor. Numerous times I rolled the chassis out from under the cab checking this or that, mock up final welding etc. This picture was when the cab would rest for good.

A few days later

This is where the chassis went all wonky.

Finished steering gear

Truck came back to my garage and sat for 6-9 months without me touching a darn thing. I had lost all motivation and just needed to take a break. Let my head absorb more tech and refocus

Progress started again in this picture as I had finally purchased my own coilovers. The restart actually started out back but I don’t have pictures on my phone of that. Next update will contain the pictures and story of the roll cage etc The next few pictures are a little out of order

When motivation finally came back to me I started with the disc brake conversion. It was a pirate deal from a member in Maine who had a bunch of D70 goodies. Bump stops were also a forum member. It was a lot of fun buying and selling through the years with other members.
IMG_3562.jpeg

Once I was ready to start working again. I cut the back off for a clean slate and planning for a TK1 sway bar
Tell us about that heater? torpedo fired into 55 gallon drum to heat shop wiithout fumes?
 
Nailed it! Forget the diameter but whatever it was household ductwork fit the heater like a glove so I plumbed that into the drum. The inlet and exhaust weren’t connected so the heat would fill the drum and have to force itself into the exhaust ducting.The exhaust ductwork then left the garage via the back door. It would get very toasty without the smell. If I couldn’t smell diesel there couldn’t possibly be any way of me breathing carbon monoxide, right? :homer:
 
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