JohnnyJ
Low Range Drifter
Buggy specs:
JHF Chassis, 108" WB, 39" reds, 2007 ford d60 front (stock brakes), 14 bolt rear (chevy 1/2t calipers), Busted Knuckle 9:1 pedal, Wilwood tandem master 1.125 bore. Hawk super duty pads front and rear. Hard line from master to upper axle link on chassis, braided line down upper link, hard line on axle from tee to corners with short braided line to caliper. COG is estimated at cam height. CG behind front axle is based on 60/40 weight distribution (Measured weight is 3900 with 60/40 front/rear bias).
My brakes aren't bad, but they aren't super awesome either. I just used a vacuum bleeder to see if I was leaving something on the table, and it doesn't appear to be the case.
I've been messing around with Billavista's brake calc, including reformatting to make it easier for my brain to digest info. I think the calc matches up to my experience. Stopping power is adequate, but the pedal has lots of throw. That matches up with the hydraulic ratios and required pressures. So if I drop from 1.125 to 1.0 master cylinder, I'd expect I can make more pressure but require even more pedal travel. If I want less pedal travel I could up the master cylinder size, but would require some boost.
Am I missing anything? I feel like I have decent grasp, but keep thinking I'm missing something. What are good alternatives? I get that big ass super duty calipers that were likely hydroboosted are gonna be pushing a manual brake setup.
For the money, I'm not sure if I'd want to spend money on a remote hydroboost setup (not even sure where I'd fit that..) or move towards wilwood 4-pistons and solid rotors.
Figuring out how to the 2004 D60 caliper up front would get pedal ratio down to 14:1. Any suggestions on alternate stock calipers up front?
Worth using a smaller caliper on the rear? Maybe S10 front?
Side note: when in 4x4, would it be correct to adjust brake balance to 50/50 split?
if anybody is interested in the reformatted brake tool, I could post it up.
JHF Chassis, 108" WB, 39" reds, 2007 ford d60 front (stock brakes), 14 bolt rear (chevy 1/2t calipers), Busted Knuckle 9:1 pedal, Wilwood tandem master 1.125 bore. Hawk super duty pads front and rear. Hard line from master to upper axle link on chassis, braided line down upper link, hard line on axle from tee to corners with short braided line to caliper. COG is estimated at cam height. CG behind front axle is based on 60/40 weight distribution (Measured weight is 3900 with 60/40 front/rear bias).
My brakes aren't bad, but they aren't super awesome either. I just used a vacuum bleeder to see if I was leaving something on the table, and it doesn't appear to be the case.
I've been messing around with Billavista's brake calc, including reformatting to make it easier for my brain to digest info. I think the calc matches up to my experience. Stopping power is adequate, but the pedal has lots of throw. That matches up with the hydraulic ratios and required pressures. So if I drop from 1.125 to 1.0 master cylinder, I'd expect I can make more pressure but require even more pedal travel. If I want less pedal travel I could up the master cylinder size, but would require some boost.
Am I missing anything? I feel like I have decent grasp, but keep thinking I'm missing something. What are good alternatives? I get that big ass super duty calipers that were likely hydroboosted are gonna be pushing a manual brake setup.
For the money, I'm not sure if I'd want to spend money on a remote hydroboost setup (not even sure where I'd fit that..) or move towards wilwood 4-pistons and solid rotors.
Figuring out how to the 2004 D60 caliper up front would get pedal ratio down to 14:1. Any suggestions on alternate stock calipers up front?
Worth using a smaller caliper on the rear? Maybe S10 front?
Side note: when in 4x4, would it be correct to adjust brake balance to 50/50 split?
if anybody is interested in the reformatted brake tool, I could post it up.
). If you can't get big enough rotors, you are going to have a really hard time making something work without power assist.
