Landslide
Red Skull Member
- Joined
- May 20, 2020
- Member Number
- 422
- Messages
- 1,478
Evolution still offers a cast aluminum base for 90* steel blade chop saws.
It’s never been my plan for this to replace any of my other saws. They all have their place. This miter chop saw will be great at cutting structural steel at accurate angles and square 90*s.You can have toothed blades sharpened and teeth replaced fairly economically. After that you learn what NOT to cut with it.
The motor in my Evo took a shit. I replaced the armature for something like $70, decent support.
Like others have said, it has it's place among other saw types.
They work ok on aluminum but you better wear good ear protection. Yeah, worry about your ears while you’re using the death to fingers sawI'm constantly tempted to pick up a radial arm saw to run abrasives on. The abrasives will love coming in from the side rather than the top (i.e. hitting the small cross section of the work) and the long throw should make it pretty decent for larger stock. Would just need to re-work the entire work holding system...
They work ok on aluminum but you better wear good ear protection. Yeah, worry about your ears while you’re using the death to fingers saw
dunno about that, chiefThe way a radial arm saw brings the blade into the work will be just fine for an abrasive.
dunno about that, chief
in normal operation you'd ideally run a radial arm saw or a swing saw with a negative rake toothform on the blade, so it wants to kick out of the work rather than biting in
but an abrasive blade is going to bite in regardless
I can't see it being weaker than my arms. Any cut I could make with a large angle grinder I should be able to do on a radial arm.and whole overarm assembly is pretty weak on your typical craftsman model.....
Can always take the OE spindle off and put a better head (HF abrasive cut off saw) on if I like the concept.which is by far the most common one you see cheap or free. Of course, if you can design your work holding system as something modular and easy to swap over to the next saw, you can just keep picking them up for nothing when you burn one out.
Go to cl or fb mp and pick one up for $50 and let us know how it works out. I see old school big dogs 3 phase for sale around here often. You could install a large abrasive blade in one of those. The idea of a steel metal blade makes my fingers tingle over fear of losing them.I think it'll be fine. Imagine cutting stock straight on with a grinder. Radial arm saw is basically the same geometry.
Keep in mind we're talking purely abrasive blades here. Having the radial for abrasives would let me throw a dry cut blade on something else.
Man, the more I think about it the more I wanna get on with that project.
I bought an old school craftsman 10” for $50 a couple years ago. My plan is to flip a blade around backwards to cut my vinyl siding like I did on my moms house in the 90’s.I don't think that overall build of a radial saw is going to hold up to that kind of abuse. They have tiny little spindles and bearings and whole overarm assembly is pretty weak on your typical craftsman model.....which is by far the most common one you see cheap or free. Of course, if you can design your work holding system as something modular and easy to swap over to the next saw, you can just keep picking them up for nothing when you burn one out. I scrapped one the the PO left in my barn a few months ago because they're almost worthless around here and not even worth my time to give away.
They used to be cast iron (or cast steel) Heavy which was nice when trying to cut 20ft tube.Evolution still offers a cast aluminum base for 90* steel blade chop saws.
Not yet been busy with other things like replacing my shop T8 bulbs over to bypass ballast LED bulbs. This requires a little rewiring in all the fixtures. At the same time I’m having to move stuff around to get a ladder under them which is causing me to clean up and move shit out of my shop to make more spaceU use this yet? need video, waiting on you to order one