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Bought a new metal blade steel chop saw

It has arrived :smokin:

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It’s crazy how much beef is in this saw everything about it is beef and quality that I see so far. I’m comparing it to the dewalt saw I have. To top it off, this saw isn’t that much more expensive then the freaking pos dewalt saw is. Cheapest I can find my dewalt saw for sale us $650.

I don’t have time right now but when I do, I’ll see how well it cuts in comparison between this saw and my dewalt since that’s what it’s replacing
 
You can have toothed blades sharpened and teeth replaced fairly economically. After that you learn what NOT to cut with it.
The motor in my Evo took a shit. I replaced the armature for something like $70, decent support.

Like others have said, it has it's place among other saw types.
 
rattle_snake said:
You can have toothed blades sharpened and teeth replaced fairly economically. After that you learn what NOT to cut with it.
The motor in my Evo took a shit. I replaced the armature for something like $70, decent support.

Like others have said, it has it's place among other saw types.
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It’s never been my plan for this to replace any of my other saws. They all have their place. This miter chop saw will be great at cutting structural steel at accurate angles and square 90*s.
 
I'm constantly tempted to pick up a radial arm saw to run abrasives on. The abrasives will love coming in from the side rather than the top (i.e. hitting the small cross section of the work) and the long throw should make it pretty decent for larger stock. Would just need to re-work the entire work holding system...
 
arse_sidewards said:
I'm constantly tempted to pick up a radial arm saw to run abrasives on. The abrasives will love coming in from the side rather than the top (i.e. hitting the small cross section of the work) and the long throw should make it pretty decent for larger stock. Would just need to re-work the entire work holding system...
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They work ok on aluminum but you better wear good ear protection. Yeah, worry about your ears while you’re using the death to fingers saw :laughing::flipoff2:
 
Landslide said:
They work ok on aluminum but you better wear good ear protection. Yeah, worry about your ears while you’re using the death to fingers saw :laughing::flipoff2:
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The way a radial arm saw brings the blade into the work will be just fine for an abrasive.
 
arse_sidewards said:
The way a radial arm saw brings the blade into the work will be just fine for an abrasive.
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dunno about that, chief

in normal operation you'd ideally run a radial arm saw or a swing saw with a negative rake toothform on the blade, so it wants to kick out of the work rather than biting in
but an abrasive blade is going to bite in regardless
 
[486] said:
dunno about that, chief

in normal operation you'd ideally run a radial arm saw or a swing saw with a negative rake toothform on the blade, so it wants to kick out of the work rather than biting in
but an abrasive blade is going to bite in regardless
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I think it'll be fine. Imagine cutting stock straight on with a grinder. Radial arm saw is basically the same geometry.

Keep in mind we're talking purely abrasive blades here. Having the radial for abrasives would let me throw a dry cut blade on something else.

Man, the more I think about it the more I wanna get on with that project. :laughing:
 
I don't think that overall build of a radial saw is going to hold up to that kind of abuse. They have tiny little spindles and bearings and whole overarm assembly is pretty weak on your typical craftsman model.....which is by far the most common one you see cheap or free. Of course, if you can design your work holding system as something modular and easy to swap over to the next saw, you can just keep picking them up for nothing when you burn one out. :laughing: I scrapped one the the PO left in my barn a few months ago because they're almost worthless around here and not even worth my time to give away.
 
I have a set of ear muffs and an old face shield that hang on the handle of my evolution saw.

That Evo saw looks quite a bit beefier than my saw. Very nice.
 
bgaidan said:
and whole overarm assembly is pretty weak on your typical craftsman model.....
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I can't see it being weaker than my arms. Any cut I could make with a large angle grinder I should be able to do on a radial arm.

I also like the height adjustment. Would make "score and bend" on flat stock real easy.

bgaidan said:
which is by far the most common one you see cheap or free. Of course, if you can design your work holding system as something modular and easy to swap over to the next saw, you can just keep picking them up for nothing when you burn one out.
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Can always take the OE spindle off and put a better head (HF abrasive cut off saw) on if I like the concept.

I'm trying to come up with some sort of cutting station that lets me not have to use the welding table since that's kind of inconvenient to do mid project.

Not having a good way to clamp work is what's really preventing me from kicking it off.
 
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arse_sidewards said:
I think it'll be fine. Imagine cutting stock straight on with a grinder. Radial arm saw is basically the same geometry.

Keep in mind we're talking purely abrasive blades here. Having the radial for abrasives would let me throw a dry cut blade on something else.

Man, the more I think about it the more I wanna get on with that project. :laughing:
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Go to cl or fb mp and pick one up for $50 and let us know how it works out. I see old school big dogs 3 phase for sale around here often. You could install a large abrasive blade in one of those. The idea of a steel metal blade makes my fingers tingle over fear of losing them.
 
bgaidan said:
I don't think that overall build of a radial saw is going to hold up to that kind of abuse. They have tiny little spindles and bearings and whole overarm assembly is pretty weak on your typical craftsman model.....which is by far the most common one you see cheap or free. Of course, if you can design your work holding system as something modular and easy to swap over to the next saw, you can just keep picking them up for nothing when you burn one out. :laughing: I scrapped one the the PO left in my barn a few months ago because they're almost worthless around here and not even worth my time to give away.
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I bought an old school craftsman 10” for $50 a couple years ago. My plan is to flip a blade around backwards to cut my vinyl siding like I did on my moms house in the 90’s.
 
My new miter saw stand showed up. It’s a bit on the pricy side for stands but I believe it’ll suit my needs great and it looks to be beefy quality made. It has great reviews looking into it also. I need a stand to fold up for storage but also I need it to be mobile folded up and also while setup. Can’t te you how many times I need to move a miter saw stand when it’s already setup.

I’ll post up photos of it all once it’s setup.

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Abrasives on a radial arm is a shit show. I did that for before I had anything else, it sucked. It pulls blade forcefully into the work piece and stalls the saw. repeat that shit until finished. RA saw is versatile but not that good at anything.

Being broke ass student, I also used it for wood, and the metal sparks caught the sawdust on fire.
 
Good to know. Maybe I'll do a low effort setup before spending a lot of time on it.
 
Got her put together and setup with the saw on it. The saw is a pig 🐷 I can tell ya that much about it. Gotta get a couple longer metric bolts for the rear of the saw to the stand hold down clamps as the saw is tall on the back two mounting holes. So far I really like the Bosch miter stand, quite beefy made


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I've had 2 of the Elvalution saws. One I bought around 2009, was a cast iron base.
It was stolen. New one I bought maybe 3 years ago. Same saw, cost more, but a thin steel base and no chip catcher which sucks.
It's ok, but the base is pretty easy to flex, especially if using it on unlevel ground.

Work decent for cutting tube, though a PITA to drag out, so I often just use a grinder. Grinder isn't as loud too.
 
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Austin said:
U use this yet? need video, waiting on you to order one :flipoff2:
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Not yet been busy with other things like replacing my shop T8 bulbs over to bypass ballast LED bulbs. This requires a little rewiring in all the fixtures. At the same time I’m having to move stuff around to get a ladder under them which is causing me to clean up and move shit out of my shop to make more space

I’m telling you all this because it’s an insight into how ADHD works it’s magic see :laughing:

I have to do all that stuff so I can make room to start building 4 new big deer stands like the last 4 I built. The frames, handrails and legs are all square tubing. It was ordered close to length so it’ll still need cutting.

One feature about this saw that I will be taking advantage of is the ability to cut square tubing at an angle while it’s clamped up on its edge. The four deer stand corner legs will be narrow at the top and widen out at the bottom. Like a metal high tension powerline stand. We’ll be welding steel pads under the legs to prevent digging into the ground and anchor them down through a hole we cut into them when they were cut out on the plasma table. The leg will come out at a dual angle so it’ll need to be cut off this way to allow the pad to lay flat on the ground.

Anywho, I’ll post up a video of it when I start cutting. Hopefully within a month.
 
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