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Boatguy's little Sami

boatguy

Active member
Joined
Oct 25, 2020
Member Number
2980
Messages
31
Loc
TN
Used to lurk on the old board, posting occasionally, then didn't go on for quite a bit of time (forget how long). Started shopping for an old Samurai a while back, and started poking around the old board again...couldn't figure out why all the Zuk threads were older with no pics... Ran into Mike from the old board (forget his handle, but he's got a Cummins swapped former-USAF Chevy 6-pack, and he gave me the update. So here we are.

Anyway. Down here in SE Tennessee where we live, the wife and I are both rope rescue technicians and volunteer with our local rescue team. We also help out (as needed) with our friend who teaches mountain rope rescue classes. Because of this, my wife has talked in the past about us getting a little side by side with decent cargo space, something we can use to haul ourselves and some gear a couple miles back into the woods to some of our training areas. As it stands, we typically hitch a ride with other ropers. Looked at pricing on SXS, even used ones, and really didn't want to drop a bunch of cash on something that's going to sit most of the year. Then it occurred to me that the old Sami's are only slightly larger than most SXS, so a bit of searching led me to buy an 88 tintop in pretty decent shape, priced very reasonably (it's amazing how pricing on these is all over the map). Dumbass I am, I grabbed the tintop (from Utah) and ended up spending twice as much getting it to TN as I did buying it. Anyways.

So, this it intended to become a build thread. Current state: only thing done to it is some weird, 'clamp on' SPOA perches. No welds, the perches and springs are all held onto the axle by the u-bolts. Everything else appears to be bone stock. Once I charged the battery, she cranks right up. Runs a bit rough though, quite a bit of shaking under the hood at idle, my guess is she's only running on 2-3 cylinders. All the plugs are black as night, and once the motor starts warming up, cylinders 1 and 2 are quite a bit cooler than 3 and 4 according to the squirt-water-on-the-exhaust-header test - once it's getting warm, even at idle any water squirted on should steam off instantly (or damn near). 3 and 4 did this, but 1 and 2 slowly evaporated the water off over a few seconds, probably from conducted heat more than anything. I swapped a couple of the plugs around, and tightened down the carb spacers (bottom one of 2 on the manifold was loose) and the old girl was idling much smoother, though cylinder 2 was still running cooler. Waiting for the current rain storm to pass so I can change plugs, cables, and oil.

Plans:
new weld on SPOA perches
YJ leaf swap, 5-leaf all around
new header and exhaust
Holley Sniper EFI adapted to the 1.3
AMR500 supercharger in a draw-through configuration
new (better) tires, planning to go up to 33s once I get the suspension sorted and find proper rims
brake upgrade - Mazda 929 master cylinder, and rear disc conversion (kit from a guy in NZ uses Mitsu Galant calipers, allowing you to keep the parking brake)

longer term:
VW TDI swap (and all that comes with it - clutch, etc)
Bushwacker fenders
Raptor liner paint job exterior, color matched interior paint
roll bar/cage
 
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Rough looking, but pretty solid body. Some rust that appears to have been POR15'd on the rocker panels - going to cut that out and weld in clean metal. Also a rust hole behind the driver's rear wheel well, about quarter sized - that will get cut and welded as well. Original seats are pretty worn out, but it came with what look like Civic seats as well. Will take some time to get the full look and function I am after, but she should be a functional trail runner and driver in the spring. Would be sooner, but I travel for work and am getting ready to leave for a couple months.

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Good to see another Sami build.

Spoa and yj's is pretty dumb though, that's how mine was when I got it and it was waaaay to tall.
 
Sweet! Sniper and a blower is interesting, 33's, a spring over on toys running 7 psi in the rocks can work well.

What t/c gears? What dif gears?
 
As far as I know, tc and trans are stock Sami.
 
Very cool.

I looked for a nice Sammy and the prices were either stupid or it was so beat to shit that it would need everything just to get it out on the trails.

I ended up with a clean Tracker.

I still have my eyes open for a nice Tin Top.

I will be following your build.
 
Thanks, hadn't seen those actual numbers anywhere yet. This is my first zuk.
 
33"s on stock axles is likely to hurt is you don't baby this thing.
I'd be looking for a set of yota axles.

I'm breaking 30spl Longfields in my HP yota front axle on 35"s :laughing:
 
33"s on stock axles is likely to hurt is you don't baby this thing.
I'd be looking for a set of yota axles.

I'm breaking 30spl Longfields in my HP yota front axle on 35"s :laughing:

I've never broken a stock axle shaft on 31s in 4 years of hard wheeling, I'm regeared to 4.30 locked in the front and spool rear and have a 1.6 16v swap. With 26 spline RCVs I don't think it would ever break on 33s. 🤷
 
I've never broken a stock axle shaft on 31s in 4 years of hard wheeling, I'm regeared to 4.30 locked in the front and spool rear and have a 1.6 16v swap. With 26 spline RCVs I don't think it would ever break on 33s. 🤷

I broke a lot of front and rear shafts on 31's with a 6.5 case and a 1.6. Usually my fault but not always. It all depends in how you're going to wheel it, OP's use sounds pretty mild.


I'm not sure how much I would want to sink into a 1.3 if I wanted to swap in a diesel later anyway. Header, sniper efi, and super charger are all 1.3 specific and won't be used if you swap engines.
Just something to consider
 
I'm not sure how much I would want to sink into a 1.3 if I wanted to swap in a diesel later anyway. Header, sniper efi, and super charger are all 1.3 specific and won't be used if you swap engines.
Just something to consider

I was thinking three same thing, but I figure I can recoup at least some money by selling those parts after the swap. Just verified that the acme adapters TDI kit bolts straight into the stock zuk mounts, so no welding. If money works out right, I might just bite the bullet and go straight to the swap. 'On paper' it sounds fairly straight forward.
 
33's, a spring over on toys running 7 psi in the rocks can work well.

Yes, with the extra width and weight of toyota axles it's not to bad.

As far as tire size. I don't think there is a magic size that is too big, not for everyone. Lots of guys out there running 33s on zuk axles.

Personally, I think the width and weight of the common 33x12.5 is probably more hurtful than the height. I'm running 32x10x15 sxs tires on my Sami without any issues as of yet. They're much lighter, and much less scrub radius than the 12.50s, plus they were designed to work on something the weight of a Sami, so they work way better.

Even if you Plat on lots of street driving, there are quite a few dot approved Mt style sxs tires. Itp coyote comes to mind and I believe some sxs come stock with them in a 32x10x15 size, so you may even be able to pick up some factory take offs.
 
For hauling rope and rescue gear around on forest roads and some street stuff, 31" at's spring under with stock gearing can be a lot of fun.

not meant to be negative...

If it were me I would ditch that weber asap, black plugs and a sooty black tail pipe indicate that the weber may have already washed down the cylinder walls. Does it smoke? Compression Check?

I would also at a minimum put those spring plates back stock.:bounce2:
 
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2 1/2" backspacing D window steelies from Summitt or jegs (roundderound dirt track guys use their steeliies) give a little more track.
 
As she currently sits (stock leaf's on crappy spoa, stock tires) she's already sitting pretty high. I'm starting to agree with several of y'all- looking more like I'll do a spua yj setup, and stick with 31s. We've got a set of nitto ridge grapplers on the wife's excursion, which are awesome tires (quietest all terrains I've ever driven). Leaning toward a set of those once we get to that point.

And I was already looking at the steelies, great minds think alike. 😄

ZOR has a pic on their site showing a spoa yj swap on 33s next to a spua yj swap on 31s, and the one on 33s just looks too tall with too much tire for that small of a truck. The one in 31s looks just right. If I were going to do more extreme crawling or something, then sure. But the 31 plan looks much more in line with my intentions for the old girl.

Like I said above, looking to set the Sami up for what trail running I'll be doing but still be able to drive it anywhere.

On a side note, when my buddy hauled it from Utah to his house in Wyoming, parked it at his house for a couple months and then hauled it to Tennessee, he fielded tons of requests to buy it from him wherever he happened to be. After getting home earlier this week, some random dude stopped by to ask about it and if he was selling it.
 
Stock Sami on 30" retreads, a mini-spool, and t/c gears was the best year of wheeling I ever had. I beat the ever living piss out of it, never broke a part, and wheeled hard every week. Load it onto the trailer, and it was ready to go next weekend. Wasn't until I started swapping in all the stupid shit I broke so often I gave up.
 
As she currently sits (stock leaf\'s on crappy spoa, stock tires) she\'s already sitting pretty high. I\'m starting to agree with several of y\'all- looking more like I\'ll do a spua yj setup, and stick with 31s. We\'ve got a set of nitto ridge grapplers on the wife\'s excursion, which are awesome tires (quietest all terrains I\'ve ever driven). Leaning toward a set of those once we get to that point.\n\nAnd I was already looking at the steelies, great minds think alike. ?\n\nZOR has a pic on their site showing a spoa yj swap on 33s next to a spua yj swap on 31s, and the one on 33s just looks too tall with too much tire for that small of a truck. The one in 31s looks just right. If I were going to do more extreme crawling or something, then sure. But the 31 plan looks much more in line with my intentions for the old girl.\n\nLike I said above, looking to set the Sami up for what trail running I\'ll be doing but still be able to drive it anywhere.\n\nOn a side note, when my buddy hauled it from Utah to his house in Wyoming, parked it at his house for a couple months and then hauled it to Tennessee, he fielded tons of requests to buy it from him wherever he happened to be. After getting home earlier this week, some random dude stopped by to ask about it and if he was selling it.

\n\nI wouldn\'t even consider those tires. They were designed to last forever on big heavy trucks.\n\nThe utv tires usually run true, I\'m running 32s on a yj spua rear and stock rear spua front. They are tight for on the front. I\'d go for some 30-31 utv tires. \n\nMy buddy swears by these on his rzr


\n\nhttps://www.amazon.com/dp/B06X1CB69P...91812054244-20\n\nLots of options \n\nhttps://www.walmart.com/ip/Terrabite...yABEgJ2hfD_BwE \n\nhttps://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CZ9WRGQ...91812054244-20\n\n


Also, be aware that the yjs are pretty long for small tires. They stick way out in the front and hit on everything. I\'d consider just a good old ome lift honestly. \n
 
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Are utv tires road worthy? I'm planning on being able to take this thing on road trips occasionally as well.
 
Are utv tires road worthy? I'm planning on being able to take this thing on road trips occasionally as well.

Yes, lots of them are dot approved, and basically like a regular Mt tread wise. The difference is in the sidewall, they're made for a ~2k lb vehicle instead of a ~5k lb vehicle.

Also, not sure wtf happened to the last post. :confused:​​​​​​

As far as front leafs, obviously lots of people love the yj's. They are just very long for a rig on 31s (even my buddy runny spoa and 35s isn't happy with his sticking out there) I have stock rears with a leaf added in the front, they're totally flat and with the longer shackles, they hit on everything. It's also really low, like too low in the front.

Long story short, I've been reading on what to do in the front and I think I'm going to try the trail gear 3" springs, just need to decide if I want to just do the front springs, or do the rears in the front.
 
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Hmmm. Not sure that will be an issue with the trails I'll typically be running. Have to wait and see what happens.
 
So, something a little odd here. When i first started messing with it, it was obvious the engine was only running on 2-3 cylinders. I tightened down the spacer plates under the carb, and then it seemed to smooth out and the number 1 cylinder was getting hot. Next time I started her up (after swapping in new plugs) it was back to the paint shaker action.

Just got done doing a compression test, and #1 shows a flat zero. #2, maybe 5-10psi. 3 and 4, both solid at 150. So it appears I have a blown head gasket between 1 and 2. Wouldn't be difficult to fix, but I've pretty much already decided I'm going to jump straight into the diesel swap after this trip.

It was just odd that 1 suddenly started firing, and then went back to nothing.
 
Check the harley carb setup from zor it changed mine 100% mine needs pedal for a bit to idle alone regardless of choke but a game changer in tight trails or hills.

Yes do the yjs https://youtu.be/bP8bzX0xpo8
 
Hmmm. Not sure that will be an issue with the trails I'll typically be running. Have to wait and see what happens.

You won't be driving over obstacles going forwards? :flipoff2:

The thing about the Sami crowd is most are stubborn and seem to follow a lot of group thinking. Sami guys are the only ones that swear that double shackles front and rear work great. While everyone else ditched them 15 years ago. The yj's are a great improvement for ride and flex, but long flat springs have downsides as well. For the back, it's not a huge deal, but in the front, they really do hang out there. Especially on small tires.

I guess if most of what you're doing is just mild trails and road driving, the better ride might be worth it. From what I've read, the tg springs ride goos also, I hope to find out soon.
 
Let's see, overly agressive tires causing axle wrap, a heavy cage and a driver that can't keep a Honda alive, add in absolute crap 3" trailmart springs.
More pissing and moaning to follow...
 
An alternative to YJ springs is just running Zuk rear springs up front too. They'll still stick out past the frame rails in the front and you'll want to move the front shackle brackets but it won't be as bad.
Might want to adjust the leaf pack.

I did coils and 4-link in the rear only on mine. Amazing what that did for ride quality and crawling ability. Still on stock front leafs with an inverted curve to them due to SPOA :laughing:
 
Let's see, overly agressive tires causing axle wrap, a heavy cage and a driver that can't keep a Honda alive, add in absolute crap 3" trailmart springs.
More pissing and moaning to follow...

:laughing:

Not sure why you feel the need to single me out in another guys build thread, but OK.

Running spua, so axle wrap is not an issue.

Nice try. Heavy cage? It's all 095 and very minimal, but OK.

Honda? You mean the one that has an issue with a shifting mechanism? Definitely has to do with aggressive driving.

Do you have experience with the springs? I honestly cannot find much info, so I'm open ears.

By the way, I have not broken anything on the Sami yet, been much more reliable than the pos honda.

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I was just trying to give some other thought to the "just do yj's" that every Sami guy blindly regurgitates. Personally, I'd rather spend money on new leafs designed for offroad use, than money on a kit to use leafs that are 25-30 years old. My Sami had 2 out of 4 bent when I got it.

I even said they may work fine for him depending on use. I don't expect everyone to be wheelin trails like Fordyce on a Sami on 31s.

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My spring experience with Sami's.

I started with a stock Samurai in 2005. stock Samurai springs suck.

The first suspension I did was a Calmini Shackle reversal using Calmini springs, huge improvement over stock. Worked great on fire roads, add a bigger tire and rocks and you start stuffing the tire into the rear of the wheel well, heavy skinny pedal results in a popped birfield.

Currently running a Trail Tough drop shackle yj spoa, this suspension has been on there over ten years, I have replaced the poly's twice and broke 1 spring when bound up. Bolton is now welded as I tore a spring hanger in Smasher Canyon.

Yj's and suspension seats give a nice ride, a little bouncey a little body roll. Kind of surprised the unloading discussion has not surfaced, yet.

I was hanging with a good group of Sami guys (The "Sami Crowd") that tried different stuff. Ruf spoa with cj fronts in the rear are still out there and a great set up for a hunt rig.

I watched the 3" trail mart springs snap clean twice, on 2 different rigs.

Originally yj's were a junkyard solution. square headlights and the dana 35 pretty much killed the yj's and bone yard springs were readily available, $20-$40. They come in 4, 5 and 6 packs. The 6 packs, the sixth spring will be a short helper. The offshore yj's that are now available can work well however they will sag in a good bit.

A spring under yj on stock axles open rear, lunchbox front will give you that low cg you crave and is a hoot to drive with some rock ability, special if you can lock the rear with the hand brake.

My buggy was 4 linked front and rear, 113 wb.

Geno has 3 linked the front and rear, he made everything himself, took a while to sort, turned out working quite well.

Hope this helps:flipoff2:
 
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