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better jack than hi lift ??

Lilyota said:
Occasionally I'll use mine for a self inflicted beating:lmao:


But seriously. there are more uses for the Highlift than changing a tire.

I believe there is a book out there, and if there isn't there ought to be.
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I use mine all the time for dangerous stuff, but it works! I also keep the thing covered in grease so that nobody wants to borrow it or even go near it for that matter. I actually have already rebuilt the pins, springs and slides twice as I bought the damn thing back in 2008. Monday, I had off and was at an auction and used mine to help lift a 1905 built, large flywheel type Lithograph Letter Press so that we could get a pallet jack under it; and it went great.

Sometimes I'll stick something in the trailer rail pockets and lay the jack on its side if I need to slide something heavy once its been loaded that can't move itself.

To the OP, this looks like a great replacement for the high lift jack in its job as a bumper jack, however its not going to replace a lot of the other trail uses that you get out of a high lift.

Lifting the rig and pushing it sideways off of the jack out of a rut, off of a rock, off of a log... that was multiple times on every trip with someone in my group.
 
Steve300xcw said:
Needs a fitting to put an impact on...

Also wonder how it holds up when you jack it up to the top an then push the rig over.
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Unfortunately, using an impact is a quick way to make them fail, especially if you hit the ends of travel. A drill works ok, but once you start lifting about 1500-2000lbs it becomes pretty hard to hold onto the drill.

It holds up great to being dropped. None of the critical mechanism is exposed on the outside of the jack body. The worst thing I have seen is breaking off the cam handle for the rear pinch bolt. It was still functional, you just had to replace the handle for about $10 bucks.
 
AlxJ64 said:
I use mine all the time for dangerous stuff, but it works! I also keep the thing covered in grease so that nobody wants to borrow it or even go near it for that matter. I actually have already rebuilt the pins, springs and slides twice as I bought the damn thing back in 2008. Monday, I had off and was at an auction and used mine to help lift a 1905 built, large flywheel type Lithograph Letter Press so that we could get a pallet jack under it; and it went great.

Sometimes I'll stick something in the trailer rail pockets and lay the jack on its side if I need to slide something heavy once its been loaded that can't move itself.

To the OP, this looks like a great replacement for the high lift jack in its job as a bumper jack, however its not going to replace a lot of the other trail uses that you get out of a high lift.

Lifting the rig and pushing it sideways off of the jack out of a rut, off of a rock, off of a log... that was multiple times on every trip with someone in my group.
Click to expand...
You can definitely push a vehicle off a Tauler Jack with far less risk of damage than your typical farm jack. None of the lifting mechanism is exposed on the outside of the jack....no risk of bending the pins. The Tauler Jack also doesn't have the typical foot or two of jack stem sticking up above the foot sometimes threatening to take out the body when doing it. It is even small enough it can be used on the axle under larger vehicles, especially buggies with portals, which is something I have never had luck doing with a farm jack.
 
Brennan is an awesome dude and everything he makes is top notch.

I think a few people are missing a key point - this is a weld-it-yourself kit. You'll need to buy a trailer jack on your own and then fab it all together. So you'll be into it $200 + welding.
 
Yotota said:
Brennan is an awesome dude and everything he makes is top notch.

I think a few people are missing a key point - this is a weld-it-yourself kit. You'll need to buy a trailer jack on your own and then fab it all together. So you'll be into it $200 + welding.
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Is that expensive? An ARB jack, which has very similar packaging and capabilities is $900! You can build 3x Taulers jacks for what one ARB jack costs.....and the Tauler Jack won't leak all over the inside of your vehicle. :dustin: I wish I could make them more affordably, generally, mass production would bring the cost way down. I'm not making thousands of these in huge factory (yet).
 
Mieser said:
Is that expensive? An ARB jack, which has very similar packaging and capabilities is $900! You can build 3x Taulers jacks for what one ARB jack costs.....and the Tauler Jack won't leak all over the inside of your vehicle. :dustin: I wish I could make them more affordably, generally, mass production would bring the cost way down. I'm not making thousands of these in huge factory (yet).
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Sure, if you compare anything to an ARB Broverland Jack it will look cheap. :flipoff2:

The Tauler jack is twice the price of a Hi-Lift, and then you have to weld it together. It's also 15" max stroke which will work to change a tire, but won't be nearly as versatile as the ol' dangerous Hi-Lift.
 
chaplinfj60 said:
Why push over. It may be stable and easy up and down. But yes some you punch over to move the rig
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The trails outside of Iowa have big ass rocks, holes next to those rocks and trees in the middle of the trail:flipoff2:, being able to lift a rig high as hell and push it over is really usefull!!
 
Yotota said:
Sure, if you compare anything to an ARB Broverland Jack it will look cheap. :flipoff2:

The Tauler jack is twice the price of a Hi-Lift, and then you have to weld it together. It's also 15" max stroke which will work to change a tire, but won't be nearly as versatile as the ol' dangerous Hi-Lift.
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I'd disagree, but i'll admit I'm biased. Like everyone, I used farm jacks for 30+ years, while the Tauler Jack is different than a farm jack, it has been MUCH more useful overall in my testing. The 15" stroke isn't nearly as limiting as one would think.....sure, it is a small tradeoff, but it also stores in half the space and then fits in twice as many places. Worst case, you might have to take a few bites to get some more stroke. The Tauler Jack actually lifts higher than the typical 48" farm jack.....and it doesn't get stuck at the top of stroke....try and walk itself off the bar....or get stuck against the top clamp and refuse to go in reverse.

For me, the overall packing and other bonuses of the Tauler Jack concept FAR outweighed any of the differences

Tauler Jack-

-Stores in half the space
-The mechanism is internal and generally designed to live its life out in the weather.
-The mechanism actually likes a bit of grease and has a built-in grease port.
-The mechanism doesn't store energy to try and kill you.
-You don't have to stick your fingers in the mechanism to reverse directions, just turn the handle the other way.
-The infinite steps in the acme screw mechanism are WAY better than having to work between 'clicks' when actually doing a field repair
-It is far more intuitive for people to use....hand someone a farm jack and a Tauler Jack and see which one they learn quicker
-The jack mechanism isn't built into the nose, so we will be able to replace the nose with all kinds of different options ( and custom requests )
-The handle takes up far less space in operation and can be easily modded to operate a dozen different ways
-The 'stock' nose was designed to be compatible with soft rigging
-The foot is large enough to be useful in soft terrain without having to us an extra base
-The nose is wider and more stable
-The 'bar' of the jack doesn't have to stick above the nose a few feet threatening the body of the vehicle.

I've got more time with BOTH systems than anyone. I wouldn't have brought it to market if I didn't think it had a LARGE advantage over the old farm jack in many ways. Is it a bit different, sure. With a few hundred kits out there now, I have never had anyone that has actually tried the Tauler Jack come back and say they would rather use a farm jack. :grinpimp:
 
Mieser said:
I'd disagree, but i'll admit I'm biased. Like everyone, I used farm jacks for 30+ years, while the Tauler Jack is different than a farm jack, it has been MUCH more useful overall in my testing. The 15" stroke isn't nearly as limiting as one would think.....sure, it is a small tradeoff, but it also stores in half the space and then fits in twice as many places. Worst case, you might have to take a few bites to get some more stroke. The Tauler Jack actually lifts higher than the typical 48" farm jack.....and it doesn't get stuck at the top of stroke....try and walk itself off the bar....or get stuck against the top clamp and refuse to go in reverse.

For me, the overall packing and other bonuses of the Tauler Jack concept FAR outweighed any of the differences

Tauler Jack-

-Stores in half the space
-The mechanism is internal and generally designed to live its life out in the weather.
-The mechanism actually likes a bit of grease and has a built-in grease port.
-The mechanism doesn't store energy to try and kill you.
-You don't have to stick your fingers in the mechanism to reverse directions, just turn the handle the other way.
-The infinite steps in the acme screw mechanism are WAY better than having to work between 'clicks' when actually doing a field repair
-It is far more intuitive for people to use....hand someone a farm jack and a Tauler Jack and see which one they learn quicker
-The jack mechanism isn't built into the nose, so we will be able to replace the nose with all kinds of different options ( and custom requests )
-The handle takes up far less space in operation and can be easily modded to operate a dozen different ways
-The 'stock' nose was designed to be compatible with soft rigging
-The foot is large enough to be useful in soft terrain without having to us an extra base
-The nose is wider and more stable
-The 'bar' of the jack doesn't have to stick above the nose a few feet threatening the body of the vehicle.

I've got more time with BOTH systems than anyone. I wouldn't have brought it to market if I didn't think it had a LARGE advantage over the old farm jack in many ways. Is it a bit different, sure. With a few hundred kits out there now, I have never had anyone that has actually tried the Tauler Jack come back and say they would rather use a farm jack. :grinpimp:
Click to expand...

I'll never debate the benefits of your Tauler Jack - it's revolutionary.

And realistically, many of the Hi-Lift uses are due to being accustomed to using it. Shoving a rig away from a rock or tree, un-crunching a roof or door jamb, acting as a ghetto spreader/puller, etc. These could probably be learned on another jack.

But some of those uses cannot be replicated... DIY come-along/chain puller, clamping, etc.

Not to mention tie rod repair splint. :lmao:


It's a cool jack for sure. It doesn't completely replace a Hi-Lift IMO.
 
Yotota said:
I'll never debate the benefits of your Tauler Jack - it's revolutionary.

And realistically, many of the Hi-Lift uses are due to being accustomed to using it. Shoving a rig away from a rock or tree, un-crunching a roof or door jamb, acting as a ghetto spreader/puller, etc. These could probably be learned on another jack.

But some of those uses cannot be replicated... DIY come-along/chain puller, clamping, etc.

Not to mention tie rod repair splint. :lmao:


It's a cool jack for sure. It doesn't completely replace a Hi-Lift IMO.
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The adjustable foot could be pulled out for a piece of spare material. It is 1.75 x 1/8 wall square tube. Wack off the foot and weld it to whatever tie rod you want to. :lmao: The jack would still (mostly) work too.

The nose of the Tauler jack can be flipped around for a clamping/pulling action. Can I put a rating to the force/strengh yet, no, but I am working on it. The only other thing it needs to make it better is a foot plate that would rotate over and be strong in that direction ( the farm jack needs the same kind of thing )

What else you got.....:grinpimp:
 
Looks cool.

Just like the farm jack, it has it's place.

Dunno if it will take as much abuse as the good old Hi-Lift when it's buried in mud or wedged against a rock, or used as a ratchet handle. Can't split wood with it either. I use the square pivot tube on my trailer jack to change tires and stuff all the time.

Nice work Brennan
 
KacksterK5 said:
Looks cool.

Just like the farm jack, it has it's place.

Dunno if it will take as much abuse as the good old Hi-Lift when it's buried in mud or wedged against a rock, or used as a ratchet handle. Can't split wood with it either. I use the square pivot tube on my trailer jack to change tires and stuff all the time.

Nice work Brennan
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I'm gonna have to try 'splitting wood' with it. :lmao: Are you just using the stock clamping foot, or do you have some kind of homemade axle head that we all need to see?

I haven't noticed any issues with abuse, but everything has a limit, but I haven't noticed any sensitivity to mud or being wedged. If anything, the mechanism is a lot less sensitive to mud because it doesn't have to start down in the goop like a farm jack. The Tauler Jack is enclosed generally speaking without anything on the outside to get fouled by mud. I know my farm jack and mud experiences pretty much sucked in comparison. The mechanism always stopped working reliability and I would have to wash the pins off or manually engage each one every time.
 
KacksterK5 said:
Looks cool.

Just like the farm jack, it has it's place.

Dunno if it will take as much abuse as the good old Hi-Lift when it's buried in mud or wedged against a rock, or used as a ratchet handle. Can't split wood with it either. I use the square pivot tube on my trailer jack to change tires and stuff all the time.

Nice work Brennan
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Opps....missed the 'ratchet handle' use. You could do that. Pull the jack base out and use that.....or extend the jack and stick the ratchet up the bottom hole. :grinpimp:
 
Any thoughts to adapting this concept to a electric camper jack? Looks like ~3500lb is common, not sure if its enough. I saw a video clip of an electric jack being used at KOH, and thought about this adapted to an electric jack, to use a milwaukee battery pack.

edit: Looks like it was a SpeedUTV or AGM jack that I saw in the video.
 
ParadisePWoffrd said:
Any thoughts to adapting this concept to a electric camper jack? Looks like ~3500lb is common, not sure if its enough. I saw a video clip of an electric jack being used at KOH, and thought about this adapted to an electric jack, to use a milwaukee battery pack.

edit: Looks like it was a SpeedUTV or AGM jack that I saw in the video.
Click to expand...

Totally possible, just not sure about how practical it would be. There is a part of me that thinks adding multiple layers of 'stuff' that needs to work like electronics and having the battery charged might not be the best call. For a disabled person with limited mobility, sure. The AGM jack is only rated for 2000lbs for context. They are a very nice unit, but dang expensive at $1400! I've done experiments with impacts and electric drills without really thinking it was a have to have kinda thing. It hasn't been high on my list to make it a powered unit.
 
Mieser said:
I'm gonna have to try 'splitting wood' with it. :lmao: Are you just using the stock clamping foot, or do you have some kind of homemade axle head that we all need to see?

I haven't noticed any issues with abuse, but everything has a limit, but I haven't noticed any sensitivity to mud or being wedged. If anything, the mechanism is a lot less sensitive to mud because it doesn't have to start down in the goop like a farm jack. The Tauler Jack is enclosed generally speaking without anything on the outside to get fouled by mud. I know my farm jack and mud experiences pretty much sucked in comparison. The mechanism always stopped working reliability and I would have to wash the pins off or manually engage each one every time.
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I tried it first with the cast end with a little wedge on it. Ended up welding a splitter head to a piece of 2x2 1/4" wall that slides over the end and pins in place. I was bored and welding in the garage, kinda sketchy but no different than using this jack for anything else.
 
KacksterK5 said:
I tried it first with the cast end with a little wedge on it. Ended up welding a splitter head to a piece of 2x2 1/4" wall that slides over the end and pins in place. I was bored and welding in the garage, kinda sketchy but no different than using this jack for anything else.
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Gonna need some pictures.
 
This was an interesting win for the #TaulerJack this weekend...

It was possible to stick the Tauler Jack under the link for more direct lifting of just the axle. The worked really well for this axle shaft repair. Under the axle was completely free to be able to slide the tire back under for additional safety. The large base worked well in the sand without needing any additional support. This ended up being very stable on a significant slope for a few hours while the axle issues got sorted out.

Possible improvements. This Tauler Jack still had the stock crank handle, and it was a little tight in that area. There was zero chance a farm jack beam would have fit in the same space on this vehicle. This would have force you to lift from the rocker or the bumper which isn't really ideal for repair work, even if you strap the axle. I like this option a lot. Adding a nut/socket to the handle would allow clocking the handle in more cramped spaces, or using a socket ratchet extension setup. ( I do not recommend using an impact on these jacks however ).

signal-2023-02-13-114717.jpeg signal-2023-02-13-114815.jpeg
 
Random thought I just had Brennan:

Have you ever disassembled and inspected the gear train of any trailer jacks? I'm curious how the different brands would compare, and what improvements may exist for known weak spots. They are effectively treated as disposable for trailer use but in our case it would be worth repairing or upgrading the jack itself.

Also related... Welding a nut to the shaft would be great for additional flexibility, but if there are plastic components the heat could be an issue.
 
^^^ Mieser how are you storing them in the rig? I know the typlical way for a hi-lift is bolts thru the beam..
 
Mieser said:
This was an interesting win for the #TaulerJack this weekend...

It was possible to stick the Tauler Jack under the link for more direct lifting of just the axle. The worked really well for this axle shaft repair. Under the axle was completely free to be able to slide the tire back under for additional safety. The large base worked well in the sand without needing any additional support. This ended up being very stable on a significant slope for a few hours while the axle issues got sorted out.

Possible improvements. This Tauler Jack still had the stock crank handle, and it was a little tight in that area. There was zero chance a farm jack beam would have fit in the same space on this vehicle. This would have force you to lift from the rocker or the bumper which isn't really ideal for repair work, even if you strap the axle. I like this option a lot. Adding a nut/socket to the handle would allow clocking the handle in more cramped spaces, or using a socket ratchet extension setup. ( I do not recommend using an impact on these jacks however ).

signal-2023-02-13-114717.jpeg signal-2023-02-13-114815.jpeg
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I've been in the "I'll stick with my Hi-Lift" till I saw this. Lots of merit to lifting on the link like that.

The problem is I already have a Hi-Lift and don't see any reason to change.

I've also used a HI-Lift for a variety of uses other than changing a tire and find them worth the effort to package.
 
Something like this would be handy for the golf cart crowd where the hi-lift is way too big/heavy.
I have a aluminum fulton I might try to something like this with.
 
pennsylvaniaboy said:
^^^ Mieser how are you storing them in the rig? I know the typlical way for a hi-lift is bolts thru the beam..
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A Quick-fist mount works really well on the body, part number #80010 for the 2.25 jack or 50050 for the 2.5 size, they are about $9.
You can also run the foot out one step and bolt through the stock leg.
Spreading the jack between two points works really well.
The jack is also small enough to fit a lot more places in general only being about 25" collapsed.
 
Yotota said:
Random thought I just had Brennan:

Have you ever disassembled and inspected the gear train of any trailer jacks? I'm curious how the different brands would compare, and what improvements may exist for known weak spots. They are effectively treated as disposable for trailer use but in our case it would be worth repairing or upgrading the jack itself.

Also related... Welding a nut to the shaft would be great for additional flexibility, but if there are plastic components the heat could be an issue.
Click to expand...

Nothing on the inside that melts, all the ones I have been into are metal parts.

The top wind versions are slightly stronger because they just have less parts and no 90 degree bevel gear.
All the small parts are also available for rebuilds, but a little grease seems to go a long ways.
 
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