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Yeah this one has the switch on each foot
I would talk to your friend with the PLC programming experience about what they will need to rebuild it and start getting parts for them to build.
The last time it worked , I had to level it manually , the auto level part wouldn’t work , but I did watch the LED lights that show when it’s level .
Dig through the schematics, the level switches may be independent of the controls that have gone bad and could be reused.
From manual, page 4-27 it sounds like the level should be located near the batteries and it has a 0-5 volt output in each direction (2.5V is level, 0-2.4V is out of level in one direction, 2.6-5V is likely out of level in the other) so you would need 2 0-5 volt inputs to tie it into a PLC: https://manuals.genielift.com/parts and service manuals/data/Service/Towed Aerial Lifts/IO/52075.pdf (if that's the right manual for your serial number).
This is what the company that drills all of our environmental wells uses on their drill rig truck .Or throw all that in the trash and use this.
What's that called? I could use a couple on some man lifts.... though 2* tilt? Need one that does at least 10* or something.Or throw all that in the trash and use this.
We had one in the refrigerator in our old motorhome when I was a kid
I just searched crane level. They have all sorts of graduations.
Any idea how many watts the motor draws?
I’m not sure what it draws
Get your PLC buddy to start looking at it and give them the PDFs of the manuals.
Nope, that Curtis controller will put out up to 276A based on 0-5V input, not 30A.
So it will run all day until you turn it off (no codes or issues), then once turned off, it will not turn on?my controller works
The computer board is toast
I’m looking to remove the computer and manually control the motor speed and hydraulic solenoids with switches
This is my machine
My computer control board is evidently stopped working
It worked fine then it would only work the first time you turned it on , once you turned the key switch on , if you ever turned the key switch off , the machine was dead for a couple of days .
I have voltage going into the board but nothing on the board at all
Mine has the origional green boards
Yes, 0-5V on terminal 3 in the schematic will tell it to run as long as there is 24v to terminal 1.
AlrightSo it will run all day until you turn it off (no codes or issues), then once turned off, it will not turn on?
I know that the green boards have a bad rap, but that sounds almost more like a bad switch/wire (estop, up/down, etc) than a bad board.
You went through the "all functions inoperative" section of the troubleshooting chart?
Yes, 0-5V on terminal 3 in the schematic will tell it to run as long as there is 24v to terminal 1.
Aaron Z
Let's start with a full stop.
Regeneration with generally connect both the extend and retract lines on the cylinder together and apply pressure to both, that allows you to extend the cylinder much faster with reduced pressure.I think The double one is the reversible flow controller but the manual shows the single one as the “regeneration “ circuit
I’m unclear as to when this solenoid gets activated .
The electrical schematic:
Wanted to give you a public thank you !Let's start with a full stop.
Disconnect and throw out any voltage regulators that you're putting in line before the solenids.
If you go through the troubleshooting section of the manual EVERY SINGLE SECTION for troubleshooting says that the coils should be getting 24 volts.
EVERY SINGLE ONE
If you were not getting that when you were testing previously, stop go back to step one in the troubleshooting section and make sure that you have 24 volts at the inlet the control board at all times.
Here is the link again: https://manuals.genielift.com/parts and service manuals/data/Service/Towed Aerial Lifts/IO/52075.pdf
Note that every single step in the troubleshooting chapter that references testing voltage to a solenoid coil has 24 volts as the "passing" voltage.
If you don't have 24 volts at the inlet to the control board and at the outlet to each solenoid, the solenoids flat out will not work (at least not at the 9-12 volts that you have drawn in your pictures, 18v, possibly, but not 9-12v.
The ONLY things that should be something other than 24 volts are:
1. Tow lighting (turn/brake signals, marker lights, etc) when connected to a tow vehicle (which should be 12v)
2. Speed control from the board to the motor controller (which should be 0-5v or 0-10v)
3. F/R and L/R Level sensors (which are 0-10v or 0-5v, IIRC midpoint is level, 0v is the limit in one direction and 5v or 10v is the limit in the other direction).
EVERYTHING ELSE should have 24v to the coils.
If you want to do testing without buying new batteries, find a 24v power supply and disconnect the leads going to the motor so all your powering is the board and the solenoids.
Regeneration with generally connect both the extend and retract lines on the cylinder together and apply pressure to both, that allows you to extend the cylinder much faster with reduced pressure.
I would bet that both Y48 AND Y41 are activated in step 1 from my earlier post (because that way instead of needing to flow enough fluid to fill the entire volume of the base end of all 4 cylinders, it only needs to flow enough fluid to fill the volume occupied by the rods of the cylinders) and then ONLY Y48 is activated in steps 2 and 3:
The electrical schematic:
The hydraulic schematic:
Step 1: Y48, Y41,Y33, Y34, Y35 and Y36 should all be powered until all 4 outriggers are on the ground and have activated their switches (LS12, LS13, LS14 and LS15).
Step 2: Y48 should be powered and then Y33, Y34, Y35 and Y36 should all be powered in turn for X seconds.
Step 3: Y48 should be powered and then Y33, Y34, Y35 and Y36 should all be powered in turn as needed to level the lift
Aaron Z
Rite on!