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Any boom lift mechanics here?

sdmuleman

Red Skull Member
Joined
Jul 29, 2020
Member Number
2385
Messages
311
Loc
Upper Marlboro, MD
Need to rebuild the boom extension cylinder on my 90's A60 boom lift. Anyone done one of these? How painful is it to get the boom apart/back together? Manual I have shows some decent exploded diagrams, but doesn't have any procedures for talking it apart. Pretty sure I can get it apart, but it also seems like one of those things where there's tricks you have to know to get it back together again.



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I pulled one apart, we used the backhoe to pull the extentions and the fork lift to catch them.
Unfortunately I used some non compatible orings on the hydraulic fittings and it has to come back apart :homer:.
 
There’s a YouTube where a guy does it on a large zoom boom like
You got there

It’s a pita but doable

You will need a backhoe or mini ex or something to lift and hold the arm and maybe another peice of equipment to pull the cylinder out

And good luck breaking the cap loose

It likely has hidden set screws with Allen heads recessed into the cap
 
It’s been a few years, but I have done one, or another 60 model. My memory is a little fuzzy, but I think I just put a stack of pallets under the basket and bled the pressure off with the manual lowering valve. Beat the pins out of the boom and tower. Lifted the cylinder out with my truck crane. I repacked the main and slave cylinders then shoved them back in. I lost my crane truck when I moved so I doubt I would do this again.
FWIW, JLG has all their manuals for free on their website, under the resources tab.
 
A lot of them don't require disassembling the boom, you can pull the cyl from the back of the boom, i do a couple a year usually at work. Usually have to snake the extend/retract cables in and out with the ram as slide it out or back in. Not sure on purs but might look into it from the rear and see.
 
weissguy01 said:
It’s been a few years, but I have done one, or another 60 model. My memory is a little fuzzy, but I think I just put a stack of pallets under the basket and bled the pressure off with the manual lowering valve. Beat the pins out of the boom and tower. Lifted the cylinder out with my truck crane. I repacked the main and slave cylinders then shoved them back in. I lost my crane truck when I moved so I doubt I would do this again.
FWIW, JLG has all their manuals for free on their website, under the resources tab.
Click to expand...
He is talking about the boom scope cylinder, not lift cyl.
 
roundhouse said:
There’s a YouTube where a guy does it on a large zoom boom like
You got there

It’s a pita but doable

You will need a backhoe or mini ex or something to lift and hold the arm and maybe another peice of equipment to pull the cylinder out

And good luck breaking the cap loose

It likely has hidden set screws with Allen heads recessed into the cap
Click to expand...
Farmcraft 101 on YouTube, he’s done both the boom lift and the boom extend cyls and sections. May not be exact to what you’re doing but the similarities are there.
 
roundhouse said:
There’s a YouTube where a guy does it on a large zoom boom like
You got there

It’s a pita but doable

You will need a backhoe or mini ex or something to lift and hold the arm and maybe another peice of equipment to pull the cylinder out

And good luck breaking the cap loose

It likely has hidden set screws with Allen heads recessed into the cap
Click to expand...
John at Craft Farm?
 
Now if y’all can find me a circuit board for a Genie 34/19 …..
 
When I did my Lull extension cylinder (14'-6" long) I propped the boom up on a 6x8 and set scaffolding up behind it, slid the cylinder out the back onto the forks of my tractor. The hardest part was keeping the hoses from un-spooling. Not sure if yours is like this or not.
 
aczlan said:
Best I can find is a repair service like: Repair Service For Genie TMZ50 48267 CPU Board Boom Lift 6Month Warranty | eBay (which appears to be someone's home based circuit board repair business: Home ), they say they will fix it for $400, or your money back and 400+ people have been happy with it in the last year.
Seems that model was plagued with circuit board issues and good ones are few and far between.

Aaron Z
Click to expand...
Yeah

You’d think nowdays it would be easy to program a iPhone or raspberry Pi or something to replace the board .
 
roundhouse said:
Yeah

You’d think nowdays it would be easy to program a iPhone or raspberry Pi or something to replace the board .
Click to expand...
It can be done, it would take a while to get the programming right and liability for it to not fail and kill someone would probably preclude someone doing it as a business.

Aaron Z
 
aczlan said:
It can be done, it would take a while to get the programming right and liability for it to not fail and kill someone would probably preclude someone doing it as a business.

Aaron Z
Click to expand...
Yeah

I was noodling out how to use switches and relays

The origional factory one , It just activates one cylinder relay at a time , with a choice of three pump speeds .

And i Think they are all gravity down .
The jib maybe lowered both ways
And the outriggers are powered both ways .

The relays are all already there and in use .

I think Just some switches would work to replace the computer board

I’m not sure I trust a home build design enough to get in the basket though
But all the down is gravity the pumo
Doesn’t turn on for down
 
Shouldn't be hard. Unless they're doing something really wacky, at a fundamental level all the electronics are doing is generating a variable voltage signal to the specific valve solenoid and doing some discreet signals for motor speed etc. If you can tolerate jerky controls, you could probably just straight wire toggle switches up to the solenoids and run it that way (admittedly this also bypasses pretty much all safety interlocks - YMMV). All the fancy electronics are just to allow the use of a digital comms signal from the upper box (i.e. smaller more reliable cable vs running a wire for every function), allowing more complex safety stuff and potentially adding some degree of dynamic control changes to make operation smoother. Would not be overly hard to make a control system that replicates what you need.
 
sdmuleman said:
Shouldn't be hard. Unless they're doing something really wacky, at a fundamental level all the electronics are doing is generating a variable voltage signal to the specific valve solenoid and doing some discreet signals for motor speed etc. If you can tolerate jerky controls, you could probably just straight wire toggle switches up to the solenoids and run it that way (admittedly this also bypasses pretty much all safety interlocks - YMMV). All the fancy electronics are just to allow the use of a digital comms signal from the upper box (i.e. smaller more reliable cable vs running a wire for every function), allowing more complex safety stuff and potentially adding some degree of dynamic control changes to make operation smoother. Would not be overly hard to make a control system that replicates what you need.
Click to expand...
So if I could use resistor or something to keep the pump motor on the low speed, or a way to restrict the flow, then I wouldnt need to have switches in the basket to control the motor speed,

the main safety system is the foot switches on the outriggers, and the level monitor, and the limit switches on the cylinders.
Im unsure how the level monitor would be converted to not use the computer,

the cylinder limit switches seem pretty easy to use to shut off the pump motor relay when they hit the limit.

I have a friend that programs PLCs to run water treatment systems, with lots of inputs and outputs controlling pumps and air compressors etc.
but he cant work on it for weeks.


I think the control system that Genie sells to replace the defective computer is all mechanical, but I have no idea what all it uses.
 
Craft Farms did several videos on an old Snorkel (i think) brand. Probably give you some idears, imagine they'd be similar.
 
roundhouse said:
the cylinder limit switches seem pretty easy to use to shut off the pump motor relay when they hit the limit
Click to expand...
If it's like the other lifts (tow behind lifts and a couple of drive around scissor lifts with outriggers) I have used, the leveling process is as follows:
1. Lower all outriggers until they hit the ground (JLG and other tow behind lifts with "flip down" outriggers that I have used have a slot at the top of the cylinder mount and a switch so when the outrigger hits the ground the cylinder slides and hits the switch), others use a pressure switch on each cylinder to tell when it hits a certain level of resistance.
2. Extend each outrigger (or pair of outriggers in the case of the scissor lift) for X seconds (to get the wheels off of the ground)
3. Extend the outriggers individually as needed to level the lift
4. Wait X seconds to make sure it stays level
5. Allow the lift to raise in the air

Aaron Z
 
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