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Amphibious HEMTT

FYI on a friend blower buggy we run a 22x18 heat exchanger in front of the rad and if you're really beating on it, it'll still overheat.

You rad seems way small to me.

I'd say your radiator for the intercooler is to small. But you have some other issue, that thing should not be pushing that much temp. You are up into rolling coal temps. A stupid duty 6.7 radiator is 39X20......

One thing I have in my favor is my intercooler rad is not in front of my regular rad. I feel that kind of defeats the purpose. (You take the heat out of the intake air and put it in the water) Often they also put the AC condenser up there too, compounding the problem. Then they put a tranny oil cooler in front of that. Basically, everything behind another cooler must be oversized.

But yes, the intercooler rad is too small.
 
Perhaps get some better data?
Inlet and outlet temps for the water and air on the intercooler and on your intercooler radiator would tell you what is happening.
Here is a 6 probe version that talks to your phone for $32 (with a coupon): Amazon.com
Or a 4 probe one with a wireless standalone receiver for a similar price: Amazon.com
My gut would be that your radiator is way too small.
Any chance you have a stock radiator with an electric fan you could stick in place of your bucket and see how much difference it makes?


Aaron Z
 
Perhaps get some better data?
Inlet and outlet temps for the water and air on the intercooler and on your intercooler radiator would tell you what is happening.
Here is a 6 probe version that talks to your phone for $32 (with a coupon): Amazon.com
Or a 4 probe one with a wireless standalone receiver for a similar price: Amazon.com
My gut would be that your radiator is way too small.
Any chance you have a stock radiator with an electric fan you could stick in place of your bucket and see how much difference it makes?


Aaron Z
The inlet/outlet temps would be cool. I hate to keep buying stuff for a test. If the bucket keeps getting warmer, I can assume the rad is too small. But I’m a little surprised the EGT gets to 1000 before the water temp gets up. I’m thinking even if I upsize that cooler to make the water cold, it still will be running 1000 at 60. I guess the impressive aero dynamics plats a part in the power demands.
 
The inlet/outlet temps would be cool. I hate to keep buying stuff for a test. If the bucket keeps getting warmer, I can assume the rad is too small. But I’m a little surprised the EGT gets to 1000 before the water temp gets up. I’m thinking even if I upsize that cooler to make the water cold, it still will be running 1000 at 60. I guess the impressive aero dynamics plats a part in the power demands.
Fill the bucket with ice? Still need (IMO) to know incoming and outgoing temps to the intercooler for air and water to learn if the issue is that the intercooler is too small (air temps never drop), or if the intercooler radiator is too small (air temps drop until the delta-t between air and water gets too small).
You aren't going to find that without 4-6 temp probes and (IMO), you won't find them cheaper than a grill temp gauge like that.


Aaron Z
 
Fill the bucket with ice? Still need (IMO) to know incoming and outgoing temps to the intercooler for air and water to learn if the issue is that the intercooler is too small (air temps never drop), or if the intercooler radiator is too small (air temps drop until the delta-t between air and water gets too small).
You aren't going to find that without 4-6 temp probes and (IMO), you won't find them cheaper than a grill temp gauge like that.


Aaron Z
I like the ice idea. I’m kind of a anti-Amazon person, but I guess I could get my wife to order it.
 
More data,

I drove out to the black top. About one mile of dirt. I kept the boost 2 psi or less. I checked the bucket temp with my lazar gun.

79 Degrees. I drove 4 miles at 60 mph. Checked the temp again.
108 Degrees. I drove back the 4 miles. Checked again.
130 Degrees. Repeat the 4 miles.
140 Degrees. Repeat.
148 Degrees. Repeat.
150 Degrees. Repeat.
152 Degrees. At that point, I figured it wasn’t going significantly higher, so I drove back to the house. When I got back, I checked one more time and it went down to 133. It seemed like a showtime for it to go down that much, but I guess there’s not much heat at low boost. Question for anyone, does a turbo diesel intake manifold ever go in to vacuum? If it did, would the intercooler be getting cold?

As far as this test, funny how the highest temp is about what I figure the cold side of my radiator. It would seem that both my intercooler and it’s radiator need to be bigger. The IC I have is taking heat out, but not enough to effect the EGT. The very first run when it was 79 had just slightly lower EGTs. After that, they were pretty constant.

I think I need to order the remote temp things Aczian mentioned to get a better picture.
 
Question for anyone, does a turbo diesel intake manifold ever go in to vacuum? If it did, would the intercooler be getting cold?
I'm no expert, but it shouldn't be able to with a normal turbo setup. One could argue that it could be achieved by playing games with the turbo sizing and efficiency maps, but it would be very intentional at that point. But it should reduce in temperature if it did.
As far as this test, funny how the highest temp is about what I figure the cold side of my radiator. It would seem that both my intercooler and it’s radiator need to be bigger. The IC I have is taking heat out, but not enough to effect the EGT. The very first run when it was 79 had just slightly lower EGTs. After that, they were pretty constant.

I think I need to order the remote temp things Aczian mentioned to get a better picture.
From the sound of it, the rad isn't keeping up. As said by others, sensors, icing the bucket, or replacing the bucket with a large rad should point to the culprit.

This is a shot in the dark, but is it possible the fuel is getting hot on its way to the engine?
 
On diesels IDK for sure. On gas stuff, as close to ambient as possible. 10/20 degrees above and then you start losing HP.
 
Does anybody know what modern diesel water/air intercooler s run at? I assume they must run above ambient. Not sure if 150 degrees is high or not. I’m guessing the intake air must be twice that.

I ordered one of those things Aczian linked.
 
On diesels IDK for sure. On gas stuff, as close to ambient as possible. 10/20 degrees above and then you start losing HP.
Type of fuel doesn't change the physics of it. Still an air pump, still going to gain efficiency with lower IATs.:grinpimp:
Does anybody know what modern diesel water/air intercooler s run at? I assume they must run above ambient. Not sure if 150 degrees is high or not. I’m guessing the intake air must be twice that.
You're getting a bit into the weeds with specifics. How much is "too much" is different for every person and every system. Lowering the intake temps is always an advantage. If you keep going with your testing and find that you're able to get your temps lowered by changing your setup a bit that's all that matters. The testing here is to verify whether you have room for improvement, not to see how it is compared to other stuff. Keep on keeping on.
 
Type of fuel doesn't change the physics of it. Still an air pump, still going to gain efficiency with lower IATs.:grinpimp:

You're getting a bit into the weeds with specifics. How much is "too much" is different for every person and every system. Lowering the intake temps is always an advantage. If you keep going with your testing and find that you're able to get your temps lowered by changing your setup a bit that's all that matters. The testing here is to verify whether you have room for improvement, not to see how it is compared to other stuff. Keep on keeping on.

To echo this, there is no such thing as too cold IATs. High performance applications add ice to their water to air ic systems to get some better cooling for their laps.

You want it as cool as you can get it. Actively refrigerated Intercoolers would be ideal, but not really practical.
 
Actively refrigerated Intercoolers would be ideal, but not really practical.
 

Oh fuck yeah. I never thought of tapping into your existing AC system, that's bad ass. Check out this install link:

 
Oh fuck yeah. I never thought of tapping into your existing AC system, that's bad ass. Check out this install link:

Do those work under sustained load or is it one of those "takes more energy to run the compressor than the system pulls out of the charge air but it still helps you in the 1/4mi" type deal?
 
Do those work under sustained load or is it one of those "takes more energy to run the compressor than the system pulls out of the charge air but it still helps you in the 1/4mi" type deal?
That’s what I was thinking. If you read that link, they point out how the water to air doesn’t block the regular radiator, but don’t mention where they put the intercooler radiator. They act like there isn’t one, but even if it’s using AC there would have to be a condenser. I read another article about this idea and they said it was not practical. I notice the company is out of Australia. Lots of fun trying to get your money back when it doesn’t work.
 
Like I said in my earlier post, it's cool, but not really practical. I brought it up to illustrate a point that your IATs can't be too low.
 
I still think that you have other issues. That thing should just be loafing along with the loads it's seeing. I've towed a fully loaded goose with a 12V and seen lower numbers than that.
 
Up date,

So I decided to do some testing on my intercooler in effort to lower EGTs. First I drove down a local road to get a baseline EGT. I was going about 60 mph and the EGT went to around 1000 for a short time and then slowly backed off to about 900. I did this with a cold truck. The course was 1 mile of dirt road at 30 mph and 3 miles out and back on a two lane black top. When I turned around and excellerated, it went back up to a 1000 and then down again as I just cruised. It never went below 800 and the water temp was up to 210 at the end of the run.

I removed the cork gasket in my intake system. I feel that cork is not appropriate, but the gasket looked fine and I don’t believe it was leaking any boost.

B682E730-47D1-4B10-82BF-9D7D1F27F6FB.jpeg


I made a new gasket from that blue material you see.

Next I cleaned out a five gallon bucket and drilled a couple holes. That and some heater hose gave me my test kit.

D1F41D5A-11D2-4F8C-90C8-5FBB14A2804C.jpeg


I had installed some cut offs on the intercooler set up last time I worked on it. They made it easy to do this without draining the whole radiator.

0694B468-D818-4A31-B8D0-345887ED786C.jpeg


Then it was a simple job to unhook the hose from the suction side and return side of the pump and plumb the five gallon bucket in and separating the whole system from the radiator. This picture shows the setup in the back of the truck.

CA22F86C-F442-4BD5-903C-D6253FEB612D.jpeg


Obviously, I spilled a ton of water getting the system primed and pumping. I also got a mouth ful of coolant. I can say I would rather drink gas than coolant. This was very difficult and I wonder if it was ever primed before. That pump loses its prime in a NY minute.

On to the test. Again, the truck was dead cold and the temp outside was pretty close to the same as the baseline. I put about 4-5 gallons in the bucket. I drove down the dirt road slow so I didn’t upset the unsecured bucket. At the end I stopped and checked that it was fine.

I headed out on the black top briskly to 60 mph. The EGT went to 1000 again at 17-18 inches of boost. I stumped the pedal for a brief period and got the EGT up to 1300. Let it slow back to 60 and the temp went back to 800-900 just as before. I turned around and repeated the return trip. When I got back to the dirt road I noted the water temp was 200-210.

Before driving back the mile to my house, I climbed in the bed and felt the bucket. To my surprise, it was hot as hell. I’m not saying you couldn’t touch it, but you weren’t going to lift the bucket with your wrists “Kung Fu” style. (for You young kids that don’t know what that means, it was hot) I crawled under the truck and felt the intercooler radiator. It was blowing warm air out. I drove back to the house and got the lazar temp gun out. The bucket was 120 degrees, but it felt like it cooled some from earlier. (Not any boost heat on the dirt road)

So now what to make of this?

Your final water/air radiator is too small or not getting air-flow if temps are getting that high. You need to get return water back out that's within about 10C of ambient.

Your intercooler can only cool to the temperature of your circulating water. Water that hot means you're heating most of the time and doing worse than the cummins factory WTA which used engine coolant.
 
Your final water/air radiator is too small or not getting air-flow if temps are getting that high. You need to get return water back out that's within about 10C of ambient.

Your intercooler can only cool to the temperature of your circulating water. Water that hot means you're heating most of the time and doing worse than the cummins factory WTA which used engine coolant.

Its obvious that the intercooler is removing heat because of how quick the 5 gallons got hot. But I would say it is not removing enough because it has little effect on EGTs Even when I start with cold water.

It would appear the final radiator is to small, but I’m not sure yet. For example, what if it was cooling the water down to ambient and that just isn’t enough because of the small intercooler. I just got the cheap temp gauge that will let me get some inlet/outlet readings.

I disagree that my setup is worse than the stock setup. That setup never gets any cooler than the rad water and because it is integral with the motor, so it would be getting heat by transference.
 
So I got my temp probe setup.

1DC325F9-B76D-4356-A081-2AA9B2A40927.jpeg


The instructions are typical Chinese BS. Add the fact they are using this for a bar-b-que and I can’t make heads or tails of them. The small box has sockets for the probes and if you plug one in and turn it on, you get temps. The large box connects wirelessly and when you turn it on and start punching buttons, you eventually get the same readings as on the small box. It’s very hit or miss.

First I attached two probes to the air inlet and outlet of the intercooler. Then I attached one probe to the cold water side of the radiator. I attached the final probe to the water inlet side of the intercooler.

F6293F62-25E2-49A0-B7EC-95BEDEF6548E.jpeg


I was thinking that the under hood temperatures might be skewing the readings, so I put some insulation over the probes.

B12B3304-9E83-4B00-ACB5-9F9CE62C5424.jpeg


Closed the cover with the small box outside.

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Funny how the readings were slightly different when the truck was stone cold. Turned on the wireless box up by my front seat and it appears to work.

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Took it out for my 4 mile test run. Right away I started having problems. The wireless part wouldn’t work in the cab rolling down the road. I figured maybe the cab was acting as a fare day cage. (Kind of nice) So I removed the rear window/hatch.

CC1664AF-0596-4E2E-BFC4-3CC794239345.jpeg


You would think it could work with that hole, but no luck.

So I made another run and got out and ran back to just see what the readings were on the small box. It appears that when the water temp on my dash gauge says 185, the outlet temp on the rad is 170 and the inlet temp at the intercooler is 155. At the same time, my air inlet temp on the intercooler is 178 and the outlet is 165.

Not very impressive numbers. I will say that when it’s idling, they are all coming down rapidly. I would really like some “real time” readings. Im going to have to get someone to ride in the back and record the temps. My Son in law is coming over later today to install a lift kit on his truck. I will probably take him for a ride.

Side note, that’s the first time I have driven 60 mph with the back window/hatch removed. Can you say loud?
 
Its obvious that the intercooler is removing heat because of how quick the 5 gallons got hot. But I would say it is not removing enough because it has little effect on EGTs Even when I start with cold water.

It would appear the final radiator is to small, but I’m not sure yet. For example, what if it was cooling the water down to ambient and that just isn’t enough because of the small intercooler. I just got the cheap temp gauge that will let me get some inlet/outlet readings.

I disagree that my setup is worse than the stock setup. That setup never gets any cooler than the rad water and because it is integral with the motor, so it would be getting heat by transference.

Yes the intercooler is working, I'm sure it could be improved but it's not the biggest problem right now.
You need to be able to keep the cooling water within 10-20C of ambient. To do that you need a bigger radiator, better airflow/fans or both. I saw what looks like your air/water radiator in the skid-plate pics a few pages back. How big are those fans and what sort of temps does that location see?

The stock setup apparently used water from the cold side of the radiator. So usually cooler than you're running.
 
Ok, I got some driving numbers. They aren’t making any sense.

I drove about 5 miles at 60 mph to warm it up. Then I turned around and told my son in law to take a pic of the temp box when I waved my hand.

I got back up to 60 for about 2 miles so that it was a constant temp. He took two pics about a minute apart.

The intake air coming from the turbo was 274 in one and 256 in the other. After it went through the intercooler, I had 222 and 229. The cooler is obviously not doing a lot lowering the temp by 52 and 27 respectively. At least it makes sense.

Listen to this, the water on the cold side of the radiator was 174 and 166. Not great, but it is what it is. The water the after intercooler radiator was 229 and 229. Just so you understand, I’m not talking about after the intercooler. How does water get hotter in a cooler? I’ve rechecked the probes. I’m missing something here.
 
Ok, I got some driving numbers. They aren’t making any sense.

I drove about 5 miles at 60 mph to warm it up. Then I turned around and told my son in law to take a pic of the temp box when I waved my hand.

I got back up to 60 for about 2 miles so that it was a constant temp. He took two pics about a minute apart.

The intake air coming from the turbo was 274 in one and 256 in the other. After it went through the intercooler, I had 222 and 229. The cooler is obviously not doing a lot lowering the temp by 52 and 27 respectively. At least it makes sense.

Listen to this, the water on the cold side of the radiator was 174 and 166. Not great, but it is what it is. The water the after intercooler radiator was 229 and 229. Just so you understand, I’m not talking about after the intercooler. How does water get hotter in a cooler? I’ve rechecked the probes. I’m missing something here.
Hottest part should be water out of the intercooler and this could be getting near the hot air in temperature. That's all kinda normal.
Coldest part should be water out of the radiator. You're saying this was the hottest? That means the radiator is gaining heat from somewhere. Has it got cold air feed?

Priority is getting the cooling water temp lower right now. You didn't mention how hot ambient air was.
 
The coldest water reading should be after both radiators. It was the coldest after the main radiator and then gained heat in the second. The air that feeds that little rad is ducted from the front of the truck. I don’t see how it could get any hot air. The ambient was around 65-70.
 
I don't think your intercooler is the cause of your egt situation. Sure you will knock some heat off it with a cooler and denser intake charge, but I'd look into other things.

Gearing (loading) -> fueling (determined by load) -> air to burn it (turbo geometry and sizing)
 
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