CarterKraft
Red Skull Member
This has been on my "want" list for awhile after I installed a 5hp-80 gal compressor in a loft at my buddies house. The compressor is in a storage space behind an apartment in his shop/party room/office. long story long but it is not possible with any frequency to walk up the stairs, go through the apartment enter the 5' tall door and walk to the back of the storage room and turn on the compressor and open the ball valve.
I used a 24v operated motorized ball valve and a RIB/Functional devices relay to power it from a switch out in the shop floor. No pix of that setup now but I can get some.
I always told him we should replace the lighted 120v toggle switch on the wall with a smart switch so he can set schedules to shut the compressor off every night at a certain time in case it was left on. He's not super saavvy of "Smart" shit so it hasn't happened and he has came into the shop on Monday several times and found he left the compressor on all weekend. We have all been there I think.
I want to move my compressor outside in a shed to free up some floor space and will need the same level of remote control to not inconvience me, I like the idea of "power off" scheduling so it doesn't get left on.
I hacked up a KASA HS103 smart switch to see what was inside, nothing really worth taking it apart I found. A regular HS200 wall switch might have been better to use actually because it has flying leads instead of the receptacle/outlet arrangement. Either way after I opened it up to take a look I broke the contacts off so it was fubar.
No big deal just solder on some flying leads for the input and use a old 120v plug for the output contacts.
Both the HS103 and HS200 are 240v rated but they only switch one leg which is problematic as my compressors motor starter contactor has 240v coil. The Baco motorized valve I bought is a 120v Normally Closed unit but I found in the specs it is good up to 380v AC even though it has a standard 120v plug. So I wired the output of the switch to feed the pressure switch on the compressor and a outlet mounted in the cover of the motor starter. similarly this is where the HS200 Decora switch could be mounted and have a much sleeker finish. Either way this worked fine using some pre-punched knock outs in the cover. Using a 120v outlet for the ball valve and actually having 240v on it is sketchy so I made warning labels and warned my 18 year old son to not fuck with that outlet but I will probably epoxy the open outlet so it is non functional.
The little window on the left with button in it allows for "manual" operation of smart switch in the event of internet failure etc.
Obviously this is pretty booty fab, violates many codes and may end up causing me to regret my choices one day but so far it's awesome.
I should buy a 240 plug and receptacle to replace the 120v stuff but I'll be honest that's not likely to happen.
The other side of the tee that is plugged will get the original ball valve from the compressor and a single female connector for use in case the ball valve takes a dump.
If anybody needs better picture or documentation on how to do this I will try to help.
HS103 wall plug
HS200 switch
Baco 3/4 Stainless NC 120v valve
I used a 24v operated motorized ball valve and a RIB/Functional devices relay to power it from a switch out in the shop floor. No pix of that setup now but I can get some.
I always told him we should replace the lighted 120v toggle switch on the wall with a smart switch so he can set schedules to shut the compressor off every night at a certain time in case it was left on. He's not super saavvy of "Smart" shit so it hasn't happened and he has came into the shop on Monday several times and found he left the compressor on all weekend. We have all been there I think.
I want to move my compressor outside in a shed to free up some floor space and will need the same level of remote control to not inconvience me, I like the idea of "power off" scheduling so it doesn't get left on.
I hacked up a KASA HS103 smart switch to see what was inside, nothing really worth taking it apart I found. A regular HS200 wall switch might have been better to use actually because it has flying leads instead of the receptacle/outlet arrangement. Either way after I opened it up to take a look I broke the contacts off so it was fubar.
No big deal just solder on some flying leads for the input and use a old 120v plug for the output contacts.
Both the HS103 and HS200 are 240v rated but they only switch one leg which is problematic as my compressors motor starter contactor has 240v coil. The Baco motorized valve I bought is a 120v Normally Closed unit but I found in the specs it is good up to 380v AC even though it has a standard 120v plug. So I wired the output of the switch to feed the pressure switch on the compressor and a outlet mounted in the cover of the motor starter. similarly this is where the HS200 Decora switch could be mounted and have a much sleeker finish. Either way this worked fine using some pre-punched knock outs in the cover. Using a 120v outlet for the ball valve and actually having 240v on it is sketchy so I made warning labels and warned my 18 year old son to not fuck with that outlet but I will probably epoxy the open outlet so it is non functional.
The little window on the left with button in it allows for "manual" operation of smart switch in the event of internet failure etc.
Obviously this is pretty booty fab, violates many codes and may end up causing me to regret my choices one day but so far it's awesome.
I should buy a 240 plug and receptacle to replace the 120v stuff but I'll be honest that's not likely to happen.
The other side of the tee that is plugged will get the original ball valve from the compressor and a single female connector for use in case the ball valve takes a dump.
If anybody needs better picture or documentation on how to do this I will try to help.
HS103 wall plug
HS200 switch
Baco 3/4 Stainless NC 120v valve
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