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https://www.affordablebender.com/col...ie-on-7-radius for bender and a flap disk and patience for notcher.
Picked up a 18' x 8.5' trailer at local dealer Tuesday, threw some D rings on, and started tackling the wiring for lights. Bought some 7 inch HID eBay specials, some bike blinkers, and capped the unused wires. I used the solder connectors and loomed it up. The 6 inch oval for rear will fit, but looks goofy, so I loaded the trailer for Moonrocks instead.
Wulf
Well-known member
looking great! I have a set of 41" iroks stacked in my yard for the taco. How is the gearing with those tires?
About stock with the 5.38s. However, there were moments I would have killed for a dual-case and crawl instead of constantly being hard on the throttle.
I just don't want to do all the work of adding the twin stick then end up popping the 3.4 and moving forward with a 5.3/6.0/6.2 which will require completely different everything.
YotaAtieToo
Thick skull
If you went with an atlas or blackbox/205 it would be easy to adapt it to the trans behind the V8.
Wulf
Well-known member
I wouldn't waste time/money on adapting a gear case to the Tacoma chain case. An atlas seems like the way to go and it's what I'm planning on eventually.
Now if only I could convince my buddy with a 2nd gen not to waste time/money machining his own toyota adapters for his 2nd gen tacoma....
Wulf
Well-known member
bumpin, looking at putting this sterling under the rear of my Tacoma and was wondering what you came up with for a driveshaft
I got a sterling shaft yoke, cut the toyota flange off, went down to the metal supplier here in town and got some sch60 shit iirc, sleeved the original and a little crackle of the mig later, BOOM, driveshaft. I even used the OG carrier bearing because all the toyota fanbois hate it so much.
If you're staying leaf springs in the rear, you'll need a bigger slip section. But with links, the OEM shaft had plenty of travel.
If you're staying leaf springs in the rear, you'll need a bigger slip section. But with links, the OEM shaft had plenty of travel.
Wulf
Well-known member
Thanks for the reply, that's pretty much what I was expecting to have to do. It seems cost prohibitive to make a flange for the sterling to bolt the Toyota driveshaft up.
Linking would be the long term goal but I'm debating between keeping my Alcans or going to Chevy 63s for the moment. If I stay with the Alcans I think I'll be OK, I haven't pulled the shaft apart in the 10 years I've owned the truck. On the other hand, my buddy has an extra pair of 16" Kings on the shelf...
If you have material laying around to build links, I would say make the jump with the new axle. You're probably going to have to strip it down anyway. Labor day sales with ballistic, ruff stuff, et al and you could probably link for under 1k if you're thrifty.
But I'm going off of my own experience, once I get something mounted up and usable the chances are I'm not going to change it until it breaks.
Wulf
Well-known member
Here's another FNG question. It looks like you're rubbing on your links when turning, what backspacing did you go with on your wheels and would you go with a different amount next time?
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It rubbed slightly with the malllocked wheels, when I went to 42s, it got worse. Offset is at 3.5"
If I were to do it again, I would have just bent the link inwards, then tightened the shit out of the heims and tacked them to hold them in place.
If I were to do it again, I would have just bent the link inwards, then tightened the shit out of the heims and tacked them to hold them in place.
I really wish I would have decided to redo the fucking front earlier. That motor/trans/tcase would have came out a touch easier. However, now that's done, I can trip over the old engine cage for a few days before I get pissed off and throw it into the island of used and failed metal things.
