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97 Tacoma with 60/10.25 on almost 40s

Rowdy

Ooga booga
Joined
Jun 9, 2020
Member Number
1919
Messages
39
Location
Reno, NV
Noticed Pirate started changing irate to Pirate, so fuck them.

1 year ago

IMG-20200614-114458.jpg


6 months ago

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3 months ago

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I
Last month

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Last weekend - Moonrocks

IMG-20200614-114458.jpg
 
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Rowdy

Ooga booga
Joined
Jun 9, 2020
Member Number
1919
Messages
39
Location
Reno, NV
Um
thee
phawk
what???

"Build thread" but without all those pesky details.

39.5 on 16s
5.38 Yukon gears
Dana 60 front welded - 3 link
​​​​Sterling 10.25 rear welded - 4 link triangulated
Hydro assist
16 inch 2.0 FOA front coilovers 18 inch 2.0 SAW air shocks
Fuel cell, tube bed, booty fab tool box, and random other shit

Since I can't leave well enough alone, I'll build or do other shit and keep myself entertained. If I fuck something up, I expect to receive feedback to let me know. :homer:
 
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Wulf

toyotarded
Joined
May 19, 2020
Member Number
324
Messages
1,017
Location
Denver ish
Maybe it's just me but I can't see the pics


That's why my initial offer was so low. Nice, truck, OP.

Did you go with a 3 link kit for the front, or piece together your own? I am looking at doing a similar setup KP 60 / Sterling rear on my 96 and am going back and forth on 3 link or leaves. I would probably go with the one of the Barnes builders kits if I did links.
 

Rowdy

Ooga booga
Joined
Jun 9, 2020
Member Number
1919
Messages
39
Location
Reno, NV
Did you go with a 3 link kit for the front, or piece together your own? I am looking at doing a similar setup KP 60 / Sterling rear on my 96 and am going back and forth on 3 link or leaves. I would probably go with the one of the Barnes builders kits if I did links.

I pieced it together. I was really heavy into the calculator, but no matter how I would have done it, it could really only go together one way while still keeping ground to frame under 26".

If I had it to do again, I would have chosen a different truss for the front and rear. The basic truss on the front forced me to create a bunch of custom brackets. If you're working with a 1st gen tacoma, I highly suggest getting the WFO crossmember. I spent a bunch of time trying to build a piece just to scrap it after finding this crossmember. It has the radius arm brackets built into it, which you can slide 1.25" heims right into for the lowers. Then just burn in an upper where you can and your frame side of the links are done.

I didn't really see any kits I felt were worth the money, save the RuffStuff 7/8 steering kit (which fits pretty much everything). There's not a whole lot of room in there to work with.
 

Wulf

toyotarded
Joined
May 19, 2020
Member Number
324
Messages
1,017
Location
Denver ish
I pieced it together. I was really heavy into the calculator, but no matter how I would have done it, it could really only go together one way while still keeping ground to frame under 26".

If I had it to do again, I would have chosen a different truss for the front and rear. The basic truss on the front forced me to create a bunch of custom brackets. If you're working with a 1st gen tacoma, I highly suggest getting the WFO crossmember. I spent a bunch of time trying to build a piece just to scrap it after finding this crossmember. It has the radius arm brackets built into it, which you can slide 1.25" heims right into for the lowers. Then just burn in an upper where you can and your frame side of the links are done.

I didn't really see any kits I felt were worth the money, save the RuffStuff 7/8 steering kit (which fits pretty much everything). There's not a whole lot of room in there to work with.

Awesome, I appreciate the insight.

Did you have to notch the frame up front to clear the panhard bar? Did you built a new section from the cab forward?
 

Rowdy

Ooga booga
Joined
Jun 9, 2020
Member Number
1919
Messages
39
Location
Reno, NV
IMG_20200404_125348.jpg - Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_20200404_125348.jpg Views:	0 Size:	355.3 KB ID:	44403
Awesome, I appreciate the insight.

Did you have to notch the frame up front to clear the panhard bar? Did you built a new section from the cab forward?

I didn't notch because I made it work. My motor mounts are in great shape, so I cut 1 inch forward of that then used 2x4 to sleeve into the stock frame, fish plated, and threw some tube fenders in to reinforce it. I did lean the fuck out of the new frame section upwards about 2 inches. Took about 3 hours start to finish.

Shock hoops tie into that via 2 inch section of tube at the top, so it's sturdy.

Notching would have made it easier to set and forget the steering, but because I removed all the inner fenders and bullshit, I could kind of put things where it fits best.

I tried to use stock frame, but steering wouldn't fit.
 
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Wulf

toyotarded
Joined
May 19, 2020
Member Number
324
Messages
1,017
Location
Denver ish


I didn't notch because I made it work. My motor mounts are in great shape, so I cut 1 inch forward of that then used 2x4 to sleeve into the stock frame, fish plated, and threw some tube fenders in to reinforce it. I did lean the fuck out of the new frame section upwards about 2 inches. Took about 3 hours start to finish.

Shock hoops tie into that via 2 inch section of tube at the top, so it's sturdy.

Notching would have made it easier to set and forget the steering, but because I removed all the inner fenders and bullshit, I could kind of put things where it fits best.

I tried to use stock frame, but steering wouldn't fit.


Makes sense to me. Seems like everything is well tied together and supported now with the tube tied in.

My truck has been wrecked and the frame rails are about as straight as Joe Exotic so I'm not sure that I would want to mess with notching them nor would I want to make it taller to avoid it all together.

Are you still running a factory PS pump?
 

Rowdy

Ooga booga
Joined
Jun 9, 2020
Member Number
1919
Messages
39
Location
Reno, NV
Makes sense to me. Seems like everything is well tied together and supported now with the tube tied in.

My truck has been wrecked and the frame rails are about as straight as Joe Exotic so I'm not sure that I would want to mess with notching them nor would I want to make it taller to avoid it all together.

Are you still running a factory PS pump?

Yeah, but you should probably remove the restrictor. A dude I was talking to in the Rubicon yesterday walked me through it. I will dig out the link and post it here for ya.

HERE: https://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=10579.0;message=107349
 
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Rowdy

Ooga booga
Joined
Jun 9, 2020
Member Number
1919
Messages
39
Location
Reno, NV
Getting some pictures together from the Rubicon. Popped a bead following a buggy up the steps at the top of the first slab.

 

GLTHFJ60

Stupid is as stupid does
Joined
Jun 10, 2020
Member Number
1946
Messages
404
Location
Durham, NC
Looks like it's time to upgrade from street-locks to real beadlocks!

Truck looks awesome man.
 

Rubirunner85

Cookie cutter Toyota
Joined
May 21, 2020
Member Number
962
Messages
130
Fake beadlocks on a crawler? Haha that’s retarded. I have some hummer beadlocks if you want to be stuck with 16.5 tire selection
 

Rowdy

Ooga booga
Joined
Jun 9, 2020
Member Number
1919
Messages
39
Location
Reno, NV
Fake beadlocks on a crawler? Haha that’s retarded. I have some hummer beadlocks if you want to be stuck with 16.5 tire selection

LOL, yeah, it fucking sucks.

I found wheels with rollers for $150 on FB Market located about 250 miles away in CA as COVID kicked off. I thought, FUCK 16s are hard to find in a beadlock so this is killer, they're beat to shit but I can fix all that. Looking back at the pictures, I see why they were taken with a potato, to hide the faux-ness of the wheels.

So, my mom lives close to the person selling them, I sent her to go pick up. Not ever thinking someone would run fake beadlocks on a fucking 40. Then I got them...well fuck.

But, I'm still gonna run em. Now I'm just trying to decide if I want some 16x10 steelies and weld up rings, or just get the raceline 16s.

But agreed, they're fucking retarded. I tried to kill them with fire, as seen above.
 

Rubirunner85

Cookie cutter Toyota
Joined
May 21, 2020
Member Number
962
Messages
130
LOL, yeah, it fucking sucks.

I found wheels with rollers for $150 on FB Market located about 250 miles away in CA as COVID kicked off. I thought, FUCK 16s are hard to find in a beadlock so this is killer, they're beat to shit but I can fix all that. Looking back at the pictures, I see why they were taken with a potato, to hide the faux-ness of the wheels.

So, my mom lives close to the person selling them, I sent her to go pick up. Not ever thinking someone would run fake beadlocks on a fucking 40. Then I got them...well fuck.

But, I'm still gonna run em. Now I'm just trying to decide if I want some 16x10 steelies and weld up rings, or just get the raceline 16s.

But agreed, they're fucking retarded. I tried to kill them with fire, as seen above.

That sucks man!! haha jump to a 17” rim. You won’t regret it. Sweet build!
 

Rowdy

Ooga booga
Joined
Jun 9, 2020
Member Number
1919
Messages
39
Location
Reno, NV
Did more shit today. Still have to sort out belly skid, build a proper set of .25 wall drive shafts, and sort out lighting. Then, who knows, wheel the fuck out of it.
IMG_20200714_195300.jpg

IMG_20200714_195300.jpg
 

GLTHFJ60

Stupid is as stupid does
Joined
Jun 10, 2020
Member Number
1946
Messages
404
Location
Durham, NC
Needs some eyes. Maybe some 4" or 7" running lights off the front?

Looks mean.
 

Rowdy

Ooga booga
Joined
Jun 9, 2020
Member Number
1919
Messages
39
Location
Reno, NV
Needs some eyes. Maybe some 4" or 7" running lights off the front?

Looks mean.

Great minds think alike. I just ordered 4 - 7" HIDs, LED turn signals front and rear, and 6 inch flush mount brake lights. Will use a couple LED pods for reverse, and some 1/8" plate to dimple die to tie everything together.

That's the easy part, because wiring all that shit sucks. lol
 

Wulf

toyotarded
Joined
May 19, 2020
Member Number
324
Messages
1,017
Location
Denver ish
Great minds think alike. I just ordered 4 - 7" HIDs, LED turn signals front and rear, and 6 inch flush mount brake lights. Will use a couple LED pods for reverse, and some 1/8" plate to dimple die to tie everything together.

That's the easy part, because wiring all that shit sucks. lol

sounds like it will be bright! :D


what are you using to bend/notch?
 
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