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93 Crew Cab Build


Well-known member
Oct 14, 2020
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Just recently discovered this forum. I'm copy/pasting my build thread from the other place. I've been away from pirate for a while and it looks like it went from bad to worse!

So this is my shitty project I started a long time ago and it has spent the majority of its time sitting in my driveway. I've managed to keep it running. Never have much time or interest in working on it. As my kids have gotten older, I'm trying to get back into going wheeling again, so I'll be updating my progress on the latest redo.

Bought a 93 CC LB on Craigslist for the balljoint Dana60. I pulled both axles and swapped them into my DD 96 F250. The parts truck had a blown motor and was generally scrap metal, but I decided to keep it after selling the blown 7.3L IDI motor with Banks Sidewinder kit for more than I paid for the truck.

The day I bought it. $700

93 cc on trailer.jpg

Yanked the old 7.3 idi.
Sold the motor for $900, sold the D50 TTB from my daily driver for $150.


Kingpin Dana 60 and 14 Bolt axles. H1 wheels and 42's I bought from a buddy parting out his old rig. Rebuilt the axles with 5.38s. Welded the rear diff and swapped disc brakes on. Lockright in the front. 35 spline chromo's with drive flanges. Plated the factory knuckles and welded on some home made hi-steer arms. I saved my full hydro setup from my old samurai buggy that I parted out.

Doing my best to include the pics in order...



Put the axles in. Pushed front axle forward about 4 or 5" from stock location. Frame was bent in the front end so I cut it off and used some scrap tube.





The motor came out of a 1970 cadillac. I had most of the parts to rebuild the motor from a previous project that went away, so I figured this was the best route to having a decent power plant.





put the motor in with a caddy th400 trans. Swapped the tailshaft out for a chevy length with adapter to use a ford NP205. Had to use a 32 spline input gear on the NP205 to mate to the GM output shaft.

the frame was too long so I cut it down a couple feet. Shortened the bed to match.




Slapped it together. This was fun for a few trips, but the carburetor sucked and it was very unrefined. Had issues with wiring. Starter was weak, fuel system had problems, but it did look cool.




Half my pictures are too large to upload? seems weird... Anyway, I eventually ported the heads and installed bigger valves which led to me rolling the truck in a field. Then I decided to put a cage in. The cage was done quickly and it was as crooked as the cab and frame, but it was better than nothing. I also ditched the bed, as it was f'd up and the tailgate was no longer functional. Used scrap metal and some 2x10's to make a quick and dirty flat bed.


So after breaking and twisting several rear driveshafts I got froggy any decided to shorten the wheelbase instead of replacing the driveshaft again. Ordered a link kit and a PRP rear bench for the kiddos and got busy earlier this year.





How it is currently. Got a WOD driveshaft kit welded up. Ordered a couple 16" radflo coil overs. Hoping to have a fuel cell and battery strapped down this weekend so I can take it on a test spin around the neighborhood.





Cant tell you how many times I've looked at your build thread at pirate. Always loved the crew cab wheeler style, but look forward to seeing the new build!
Yet another build that makes me regret selling off my '90 after it burned, would've been perfect for this type of thing.
Got it running enough for a test drive. Ripped around the neighborhood with open exhaust. Man this thing drives nice. Feels way lighter too. Gonna be a lot of fun on the trails. Will post a few driveway pics tomorrow.
Pics from last weekend. The kids are realizing the possibilities of a rolling jungle gym. My little girl has already stated that she wants to go real fast on big hills. She's in for a treat!





Looking good man!
I'm sure your neighbors enjoyed the motor noises too.

Thanks! Anyone want to share their opinion on the exhaust? I had cheap turbo mufflers before and don't want to put them back on. They seemed too restrictive. A good friend has 2 pairs of flowmasters he has offered to donate. Both are 3" pipe, one set is 13" long and the other 17" i think. I'm kind of leaning toward running the short ones. Currently I have 2.5" from the headers back past the t-case. Figured I'll run 3" duals from the mufflers back past the axle/rear bumper. Anyone think that will be too loud for trail riding? The other option I have in mind is to install a pair of cut-outs in front of some quiet mufflers. I figure that might be beneficial if I ever take this to go hog hunting, etc... I'm open to suggestions.
I am not typically a fan of GM engines in Fords, but the Cadillac 500 is just to cool to be upset :grinpimp:

Normally buggies built off a production frame come out looking like shit, but the lines are yours aren't bad at all. What are the plans for the front? It would be cool to finish up the tube work and hang some Ford skins on it kind of like SnowRacer did.
I am not typically a fan of GM engines in Fords, but the Cadillac 500 is just to cool to be upset :grinpimp:

Normally buggies built off a production frame come out looking like shit, but the lines are yours aren't bad at all. What are the plans for the front? It would be cool to finish up the tube work and hang some Ford skins on it kind of like SnowRacer did.

I do intend to hand some fenders back on the front to keep the ford truck look. I have antique tags already so I'd like to pass it off as a 93 F-350 so I can drive it around some without too much trouble from the po-po.
Was this called the Brown Trout before?

It was the brown clown, aka the turd, aka the shit missile... I'm thinking I should paint the new skins brown and add a bunch of bass boat flake to make it look like a turd rolled in glitter. Keep the brown/gold color scheme that it used to have.
So I might have a fuel plumbing issue. Currently I am running a walbro GSL392 pump with -6 AN hoses on inlet and outlet side. The truck runs fine mostly, except during WOT I sometimes lose fuel pressure. I noticed the pump was noisy the last time it started having fuel pressure problems, so I figured the pump was going out. However, the last few times I drove it the pump was quiet and the truck ran fine. I suppose this means the pump is/was cavitating when it was noisy? Would upsizing the 2 feet of fuel line between the pump and tank help this? It is reduced from -8 to -6 at the fuel cell outlet right now.

Should have the coil springs and limit straps coming in to finish up the rear suspension this weekend. I need to pick up some more tube tomorrow to build the dash/console out. Then next will be aluminum roof panels and sheet metal.
What is the rest of the fuel system? efi? return line to tank? how full was tank?
I don't think upsizing the suction line will help. Is pump below tank floor?
System has a return. Regulated by Fitech. Everything is -6 now. The pump is a couple inches below the bottom of the fuel cell about 2 feet away. Tank was about 1/3 full when I experienced cavitation or pressure loss.
Put the new coil springs on last night. 175/200. Rides like a caddy! Sits an inch or two higher in the rear but looks like it will be perfect when loaded up. Took it around for a test spin and it ran awesome for the first 10 mins. Then after a while it started bogging down at WOT again. Fuel pump sounded pissed. I'm guessing its just a shit pump. Frustrated a little since this will be pump #3 since putting EFI on it. Short life expectancy on these $100 fuel pumps.

i was very surprised how fast I could drive through the bumpy field. Suspension was feeling nice. Didn't expect the ride to be that good since I still have f350 super duty x code front springs.

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