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86 CJ7 DUMPSTER BUILD

gt1guy said:
Do you plan to put a diagonal in the B-pillar? An X is best, but even one diagonal will help keep everything from shifting sideways in a flop.
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Yes, but I haven't decided how exactly I want to do that.

Probably like this---
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If you only run one bar, dvr side top to pass side bottom will put the most strength above your head.
 
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B will do more for an impact directly on the B pillar bend in a flop or roll to keep the cage from turning into a trapezoid /__/
 
Got some stuff done today after work. Let's just say, things are going according to plan. Lol.

That NEVER happens with me.

The goal---
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The result---
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From the other side ---
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I've got exactly enough tubing to do this again on the other side.

So I'm short like 12', overall. Here's the deal: NOBODY near where I live (Tyler TX) keeps tubing in stock. I've gotta special order it, or drive 2 hours to the other side of Dallas to get it.

Dammit.
 
Great build. Classic snow ball that happens when buying a used rig but you are making it RAD.
 
GGRR 4555 said:
Great build. Classic snow ball that happens when buying a used rig but you are making it RAD.
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Thank you!

Yeah, I've changed my mind a few times.

When I first got this thing, I just wanted to get the suspension and wiring squared away. It's snowballed, quite a bit.

Like, the post right before I cut the frame in half, I was talking about how I'm NOT going to back-half it. Lol. Oops.
 
I got so many activities done today. The cage is fully welded in. I've got two more bars to add by the doors, then it's done done, and onto other things.

Next up is to get the center console out, because I'm pretty sure it's too wide. After that I'll fit the seats, then get the door bars burnt in. Then rebuild the console. I'm actually kinda glad because I'm not a fan of the job I did on it, back when I first started fucking this thing up.

Anyways. Pics!

That cross bar is actually sleeved inside with another piece of 1.5", as well as the top of the B-loop. I would add more diagonals in the lower half of the B-loop, but I think this is fine.
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Got the console out and started building stuff for the new console today.

Here's the deal- with the original console, the new seats sat too far outboard. I had tacked my little tabs in so I could mount them, and check fit, and I didn't like it at ALL.

The new console will be more narrow, and much shorter.

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Got some good work done today. Not as much as I'd like, but I didn't start until 1pm.

As previously stated the console was too wide. The new one is as wide as I could make it, but I still can't put my shifters side by side, like before.

Anyways, here's some pics. I cut up some old signs for the top of the console. I still may do sheet metal. I kinda biffed up the diagonal cuts on that part that narrows. That's kinda my style. Lol.

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Big shout-out to my sponsor, TXDOT, for leaving the street sign sitting in the ditch 25 years ago, when you were widening the shoulders, and moving the posts.
 
So, I went ahead and rebuked my TXDOT sponsorship. I kinda messed up on the top of the console. Cut on the wrong side of my line, or something. Idk. It just didn't fit the frame like I wanted. Either way, I needed some more aluminum, but they seem to think stealing signs is "theft", and I guess I agree. My security clearance for work is contingent on me not engaging in felonious activities. Sigh here, Bezos... Here's some money, gimme some Al.

Back in October, when I started phase 2 of this project, a cut that was off 1/8" would've been fine, (especially on something like the console sheeting) but I've taken it a little further than I ever intended. You can go back and read through the evolution of my plans if you haven't already. I'm coming up on a year that I've owned it, and I've literally got 9 +/- hours of seat time to show for it. It's certainly snowballed far beyond what I originally intended, am I'm definitely okay with that.

Either way, when I do something, and think, "that's good enough, but I could do better", I have been redoing it. I'm not a perfectionist. I'm a function>form, guy. Especially on a friggin rock Juggy.

I've tacked, and test fit, and cut off, and tacked and test fit, and changed my design on the seat mounts several times already, and I finally got something I like. Certainly nothing to write home about, but it's simple, and will work well.

Anyways, as always, pics....
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This is the part I messed up on. Clearly.

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And this is the redo from this evening. I'm going to trim that top section on the sides some, and finally use my new rivnut tool.
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I've done the same miss cutting so many times I can't count. Finally realized to correct way is to always make the piece slightly larger so you can hold it in place and mark the final trimming off the frame or what ever.

Finished product looks good.
 
gt1guy said:
I've done the same miss cutting so many times I can't count. Finally realized to correct way is to always make the piece slightly larger so you can hold it in place and mark the final trimming off the frame or what ever.

Finished product looks good.
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That is precisely what I did. My (wood) bandsaw does a poor job cutting straight, even with the fence. The metal one is currently in chop configuration. I cut it with the angle grinder this time, then set in place, marked, and used two pieces of 1/8 flat stock clamped to each side and trimmed it down with the flap disc. Light, long passes.
 
Today, I got the other frame rail notch done, and started on mounting the fuel cell.

The fuel cell was full of gas from October. It was ethanol free, and the tank has been under cover since it was removed. I hooked up the old pump to a Ryobi battery and filled up my zero turn, and both has cans. Lol. Fuel looked and smelled fine.

The fuel cell is going to get a bolt-in sump. I still don't have all the stuff/knowledge to weld aluminum, so the bolt in units will have to work.

Anyhow, I'm pleased with how it's turning out, so far.

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Ohh, also, I pulled this off. See, I was using this drill because my new brushless one met this exact same fate. This drill is over 15 years old (somewhere in that ballpark).

It's so old, if I would've bought it a month sooner, it would be navy blue, and orange. Lol.

I really outta start transitioning to Milwaukee or something. Ugh, I've got like 9 good Ryobi batteries
 
Today I got to play with the nut sert rivet tool I bought a while back.

I don't know how I made it this many years without one.
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gt1guy said:
Are you painting everything as you go?
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Yessir. I guess. Lol. To be perfectly honest, I haven't put much thought towards that, OTHER THAN- "I'm not doing much in the way of paint".

It's just not on my radar right now. I was considering raptor lining the inside of the tub, BUT that crap catches everything. I did the inside of the Commando I restored a few years ago, and it was fine for that, as that was a pavement princess.

Probably just bomb-can it, so I can make changes to it, and not feel bad. Easy to touch up. Lol

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omg glad i got to the end and your rear axle is not complete.

love the build by the way. great work

the rear truss and LS made my truss that was similar to yours fail bad. it was allowed to twist. pics for reference.

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chaplinfj60 said:
omg glad i got to the end and your rear axle is not complete.

love the build by the way. great work

the rear truss and LS made my truss that was similar to yours fail bad. it was allowed to twist. pics for reference.

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Holy cow!!!

That's wild! To be fair, mine is 1/2" plate, but it's going to get some gussets as well.

Actually, finishing the rear suspension up MAY have moved down the list, as of last night. I want to address the shade-tree "skid plate" and trans mount, which will also incorporate the chassis-side link mounts. Pics to follow.
 
chaplinfj60 said:
it was a design flaw in the truss that did not present it self till i had goobs more power. for 2 years with a toyota power plant no drama, 3 months LS drama...... :lmao::lmao:

you can see here by having the center ridge beam it bent on either side. shit design

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no more twisting
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That's mint.

Okay, so here's the issue. The Dana 300 is clocked WAY down on the transmission. Maybe the PO did this for driveline angles...? The pan on the th350 has been clearanced for the driveshaft.

I'd prefer to leave the transfer case clocked how it is. I'm not sure if the adapter will even let me clock it up. I'd assume so, since it's clearly clocked downwards. I really dont want to try to fight with front u joints binding, and such. Clocking it up would (I think) create more lateral clearance between the front driveshaft and trans pan, but maybe not enough, and really just make it worse.

So.... If I did a nice flat skid plate under it all, I'd loose some belly height, but still have about 21". Which I've heard is acceptable. In fact, I think there's some really capable rigs out there with less.

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Nice, right?

This needs attention, and I'm NOT going to do the rest of the rear end until I have this figured out.

I've got some .188 wall 2" sq tubing, and I was thinking about something like this....

Come off both frame rails with something like that, and removable cross members where they need to be?

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from what i recall dana 300 did not have a auto option and they are a bit narrower. but i am sure i am wrong. but what i have seen done on th350 dana 300 is a intermediate shaft with carrier bearing to front axle. also said shaft had to go off at an slight angle to pass side frame rail then back to front axle. i have only seen one so thats all the experience i have with them.
 
chaplinfj60 said:
from what i recall dana 300 did not have a auto option and they are a bit narrower. but i am sure i am wrong. but what i have seen done on th350 dana 300 is a intermediate shaft with carrier bearing to front axle. also said shaft had to go off at an slight angle to pass side frame rail then back to front axle. i have only seen one so thats all the experience i have with them.
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I've certainly considered an intermediate shaft. Again, I'm worry about drive shaft u joints binding, and an intermediate shaft would make that worse.
 
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