78 bronco 3 link

ANGELO

Red Numb Skull
Joined
May 20, 2020
Member Number
453
Messages
908
Loc
BRADENTON FL
I'm getting ready to 3 link my 78 bronco with 2015 superduty d60 axles. I decided on 3 linking 4 years ago. Bought the axles and some of the parts, cut everything off the axle then the engine blew and it's been sitting since. Now I'm ready for the axles, and I definitely would have just done radius arms, but I'm committed now!
I've never done anything like this before, and have no idea what I'm doing. The truck will be used on the street locally. Will probably trailer it for further distances, but I'd like it to not be sketchy at highway speeds. Since FL, it will see the most extreme trails, that civics with atv tires and a limo with a donk lift can do with ease.

Here's now it sits with the half ton stuff and the weight of the 460. 37x14x15 iroks.
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It has stock leafs 3" block and a shackle flip in the rear. And the longer deavers coils in the front.

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Now the rear has deavers 4" leafs, and the shackle flip. I cut the perches off and got the ruff stuff install kit so I can just weld them on for the right pinion angle.

Now for the front axle. I bought a atec truss with my trump bucks during covid. I thought that would be the easiest way to mount the link brackets. So the axle has been stripped of all the factory brackets. My plan is to use the same coils. I don't really want to go any higher. My goal is to make sure it can still fit in my pole barn.
Looks like I should get the truss welded on since it only fits in one place. then keep the coil pads and link mounts loose, then get it under the truck and start measuring.
One thing I noticed yesterday, the coil pads for the truss that are probably spaced for a jeep, are a few inches narrower then the spacing on the d44. Do the coils need to be the same width top and bottom? Or should they be angled one way or the other?

I have some 17" gate keeper beadlocks with 3.5" backspacing ordered, I've been watching the interco blem list for swampers. I don't really want to go bigger then 37s, Yet I think 40s would probably fit it better.
I also have everything for a doubler, not sure if I want to put it in. I don't think I really need it, and I really don't want to pull that heavy transfer case out again.

I'll get some pictures of the truss later today.
 
How do these numbers look?
I want to to be good at highway speeds. and mild offroad.
Screenshot 2025-01-19 145058.png
 
Can't really comment on the numbers, but looking forward to learning. Is that software something that is free, where do you get it?
 
Can't really comment on the numbers, but looking forward to learning. Is that software something that is free, where do you get it?
 
It’s hard to judge by the calculator but without a subframe or drop brackets, your links are gonna be crazy steep. Links of any angle will “work” but for best manners you’re gonna want them flat with 6” at the frame and 10” at the axle. Maybe a 2” difference in the lower links upwards to the frame. More triangulation in the lowers the better for roll steer but frame width like radius arms is ok too.

You could look at lucky_thirteens F 100 beater project on the old board for inspiration.
 
Would the numbers on that calculator be a ok compromise vs lowing the frame brackets? That's already about 6" lower then the frame.
 
It won't be any worse than what people used to build. But it may not be as good as a modern LCG build. The links are relatively long with an somewhat distant IC, so the antis and hitting speed bumps shouldn't be to bad. But it is going to have quite a bit of roll steer and oversteer and may be a bit of a handful.
 
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How would these numbers be?
If i do shorter links, i can try and work them into the trans cross member. That really starts putting the frame end pretty low though.

#2.png


Heres the frame end 1" higher
 
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how would this look. I tacked some brackets on, so this would be closer measurements. Also I threw a tire on it, and realized the front will probably sit about 4" lower then the initial measurements.
The upper link has 3 holes. These numbers would be at the lowest hole. In the high hole it would be about -10 anti dive. What would a good range to set that bracket? I think i should be able to move it up and down without that much work.
 
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And my original pan hard looks like it'll work, and it had the bend for the diff already.

It's going to be shorter then the drag link. I couldn't come up with anyway to get the pan hard to mount further outboard.
Is there maybe a aftermarket draglink/tie rod that puts the pivot for the draglink inboard?
Regardless I think I will run it as is and see how it handles. My 95 bronco had a 4" lift d44 sas. It's panhard was super short, and I never had any negative handling effects. But that also had stiffer coils and less travel.
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1740957312770.png


how would this look. I tacked some brackets on, so this would be closer measurements. Also I threw a tire on it, and realized the front will probably sit about 4" lower then the initial measurements.
The upper link has 3 holes. These numbers would be at the lowest hole. In the high hole it would be about -10 anti dive. What would a good range to set that bracket? I think i should be able to move it up and down without that much work.
I highly recommend downloading the latest version.

You should probably lower the bracket more. I would aim to have the high hole where the low hole currently is. Drive it and switch holes to see which position you like best.
 
I highly recommend downloading the latest version.

You should probably lower the bracket more. I would aim to have the high hole where the low hole currently is. Drive it and switch holes to see which position you like best.
What happens when the anti dive numbers are negative?
I believe if I moved it down that would make the low hole around 20%
 
I'm figuring the coil when fully compressed would be 16" as it has 16 wraps. Does that sound about right? On flat ground it's 21".

Looks like everything clears

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