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7/16" bolts instead of hub studs.

YotaAtieToo said:
I doubt I'll change it. Although curious how they'll hold up or stay tight in the rear.
Click to expand...
I have a mixture of factory and ARP studs on my fj80 rear and have held up fine since I swapped in the axles with a 3.4, duals, 37s and a 5500lb+ rig.

Converting to hub bolts is on my to do list though.
 
Slander said:
I have a mixture of factory and ARP studs on my fj80 rear and have held up fine since I swapped in the axles with a 3.4, duals, 37s and a 5500lb+ rig.

Converting to hub bolts is on my to do list though.
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How many transmissions do you have though? :flipoff2:
 
YotaAtieToo said:
How many transmissions do you have though? :flipoff2:
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The right amount!!:flipoff2:


Interested to hear some wheeling feedback on that. I remember reading about them in the old site but little actual follow up on how they work out in the trail.
 
Slander said:
The right amount!!:flipoff2:


Interested to hear some wheeling feedback on that. I remember reading about them in the old site but little actual follow up on how they work out in the trail.
Click to expand...

Same here, I was super into the idea as a teen, basically free vs dual cases, 4.7s and 5.29s.

What's kinda neat about my truck is its had some R&D already. Went through a w56 and ended up with a r150.

I don't think a 22r can make more torque than a boosted 3.4 even with a 4:1 gear in between it and the r150 :lmao:
 
At the risk of wandering out of my element, from what I have seen the toyota hub setup being discussed here is similar to the CJ dana 30 hubs with similar problem of the bolts backing out while wheeling. We have seen the locking hubs fall off after wheeling trips etc.

We started running the Stage 8 bolts with the locking tab and have had zero issue since. Not sure if the 3/8"-16 bolt size or length is even applicable but more info never hurt anybody.


www.summitracing.com

Stage 8 Locking Fasteners 8901 Stage 8 Locking Warn Hub Bolt Kits | Summit Racing

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MigGunslinger said:
At the risk of wandering out of my element, from what I have seen the toyota hub setup being discussed here is similar to the CJ dana 30 hubs with similar problem of the bolts backing out while wheeling. We have seen the locking hubs fall off after wheeling trips etc.

We started running the Stage 8 bolts with the locking tab and have had zero issue since. Not sure if the 3/8"-16 bolt size or length is even applicable but more info never hurt anybody.


www.summitracing.com

Stage 8 Locking Fasteners 8901 Stage 8 Locking Warn Hub Bolt Kits | Summit Racing

Free Shipping - Stage 8 Locking Warn Hub Bolt Kits with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Wheel Hub Fasteners at Summit Racing.
www.summitracing.com www.summitracing.com
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A different perspective is always welcome.

The stock studs use a cone washer, and is a great and fairly strong design. The problem is when you upgrade every other part to chromo and drive like an idiot, the studs can become a weak point. So then guys go to ARP studs and drive even more dumb and those can end up coming loose occasionally.

The rig I mentioned in the original post we use 3/8 because that's what we found at the local hardware store it's not a great fit due to the taper in the hub for the factory cone washers being larger than 3/8 which is why 7/16 is the go-to when going larger
 
Loctite is your friend gentlemen's:laughing:
Are we seeing the tire size meeting/exceeding the axles ability to take the punishment here /
Me thinks yes.:beer:
eta
Yes I run tiny pizza cutters
 
rattlewagon said:
What length bolts are people using for this normally? 1"? and enlarging the hole just the length of the stud?
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Like I said, 1" or 1 1/4" will work. Here the op from the old site.

msmoke​





There is still a substantial amount of steel in both the locking hub body and the wheel hub. The 7/16 NF bolt almost takes away all the taper for the cone washer, just a little at the top remains. The lock washers stick out past the locking hub but you can still fit a normal steel wheel over them. I need to order up some of bobby's hub gear and do a few other things, then i should be ready to test it out. You have to use the hex bolts as the regular 7/16th bolts are a little hard getting down in there. This makes it way easier. Standard torque for these bolts is 70 ft lbs.

I drilled out the locking hub holes from the backside to 7/16th. I drilled out the origional holes in the wheel hub to 3/8 and tapped with a 7/16th 20 tpi tap. The bolts you need are approx. 1" to 1.25" long 7/16 20 tpi hex bolts. Just make sure you drill and tap straight and you are good to go.
Click to expand...

And apparently I used 1 1/2" on my FJ80 front

www.summitracing.com

ARP 743-1500 ARP Chromoly Bolts | Summit Racing

Free Shipping - ARP Chromoly Bolts with qualifying orders of $99. Shop Bolts and Screws at Summit Racing.
www.summitracing.com www.summitracing.com
 
Got my diy hub bolt kit from McMaster-Carr.. Only thing I forgot to order was the 7/16 drill bit for the flanges. The bolts came in 10 packs, so I got two. It was like $55 to my door.

1691063022820.png
 
this is interesting, i have a set of IFS wheel hubs getting modded for a axle build. need to pick what hardware its going to be running.
 
7/16 drill bit ?

If you are tapping the flanges for the 7/16 bolts you're gonna want a smaller bit.

Or maybe you are drilling out the hubs and plan to weld the bolts to the back of the hubs ?


Didn want you to ruin the hubs, that would suck to drill them out too big ehhh ?


rattlewagon said:
Got my diy hub bolt kit from McMaster-Carr.. Only thing I forgot to order was the 7/16 drill bit for the flanges. The bolts came in 10 packs, so I got two. It was like $55 to my door.

1691063022820.png
Click to expand...
 
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PAE said:
7/16 drill bit ?

If you are tapping the flanges for the 7/16 bolts you're gonna want a smaller bit.

Or maybe you are drilling out the hubs and plan to weld the bolts to the back of the hubs ?
Click to expand...

Look at the picture again
 
PAE said:
7/16 drill bit ?

If you are tapping the flanges for the 7/16 bolts you're gonna want a smaller bit.

Or maybe you are drilling out the hubs and plan to weld the bolts to the back of the hubs ?
Click to expand...

For drilling out the taper in the lockouts. No threads here, the bolt just needs to pass through. (I have flanges, so I said flange)

the 25/64 bit is for the tap hole.
 
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Got this done this past week, I needed to replace a broken hub stud, and figured it was a good time for an upgrade.

1.25 length was just about the perfect length as the stock length

1704160606046.png


Drilled all the holes to 3/8, then to 25/64th, which was the size the tap called for.

1704160684220.png


Tapped to 7/16 -20

1704160712124.png


Hubs needed to be drilled to 29/64th to clear the 7/16 stud. It takes up just about all of the taper, really fits the larger bolts well

I ran into a little problem here as I could not drill through the TG chromo drive flange. Even bought a "hard metal" bit from the local hardware store and didnt touch it. So I went back to locking hubs with chromo gears for now. I did have to drill the back of the hub out too to match the extra dowel pins from the drive flange.

On and torqued to 70lbs. Absolute thrilled to have gotten rid of the cone washer here.

1704160896715.png
 
been on the fence doing this on a fresh axle build coming up. have a set of the TG drive flange kits sitting around i had planned to use as a guide but if drilling the holes in the TG flange is such a pain ill have to find another optoin for a guide.
 
Another option I'm looking into is using axle flange bolts from a FF 60/70/80 or AAM rear axle. I picked up a set at the junk yard that appear to be 7/16 -14 and 1-3/8" long. Some are 1.5" long but can be trimmed.

They are flange head and measure around .68" OD at the flange. There are some that are 12-point too.
1708393132923.png


1708393174323.png
 
it
carslut said:
been on the fence doing this on a fresh axle build coming up. have a set of the TG drive flange kits sitting around i had planned to use as a guide but if drilling the holes in the TG flange is such a pain ill have to find another optoin for a guide.
Click to expand...
I just did this to the hardened TG flanges. I used 1/2 hex bolts. Started at home on a shit little drill press and some 1/2” carbide endmills. Not good. Destroyed an end mill every 1.5 holes. Seemed like hours to get 6 holes banged out.

I took the next flange to a real milling machine. A good endmill went through like butter in 3 mins I was done.

I had to turn down the diameter of the heads of the 1/2” hex bolts for wheel clearance.
 
Aren't they originally M8 studs? what about go with M10 instead of 7/16"? Potentially make for easier to fit wheels over bolts without turning or grinding them down. 7/16" is right about 11mm, for reference.

www.mcmaster.com

McMaster-Carr

McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.
www.mcmaster.com www.mcmaster.com
 
TrailTamer said:
Aren't they originally M8 studs? what about go with M10 instead of 7/16"? Potentially make for easier to fit wheels over bolts without turning or grinding them down. 7/16" is right about 11mm, for reference.
Click to expand...
Yes. Toyota upgraded them to 10mm studs on the FJ100. It’s a common mod on FZJ80s to convert them to 100 series hardware.
 
TrailTamer said:
Aren't they originally M8 studs? what about go with M10 instead of 7/16"? Potentially make for easier to fit wheels over bolts without turning or grinding them down. 7/16" is right about 11mm, for reference.

www.mcmaster.com

McMaster-Carr

McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.
www.mcmaster.com www.mcmaster.com
Click to expand...

If you're ditching cone washers, the large end of the taper in the hubs is right about 7/16" so anything smaller won't drill out to a smooth straight bore if that makes sense
 
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