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7/16" bolts instead of hub studs.

YotaAtieToo

YotaAtieToo

Thick skull
Joined
May 19, 2020
Member Number
142
Messages
11,174
Loc
Bonners Ferry, ID
I did this on my old FJ80 front with 7/16" arp 12 pt bolts before I had an issue. Arp is probably overkill, as other guys have had good luck with just grade 8, but they were cheap enough from summit and the 12 point looks cool :flipoff2:

Last weekend we did this in the staging area parking lot on my buddies truck :laughing:

He sheared all the studs off, and instead of trying to find a hub or stock studs, we went and got bolts and a tap. The shit part was that the place didn't have 7/16 cap head allens, so we did 3/8". The hubs did not have to be drilled out, and we used lock washers, seemed to seat OK. Good trail fix, but I told him find another good hub, do 7/16" and use this as a spare. It held up to another 12 hours of hard wheelin though :smokin:

I know, cool starry bra
 
Keep your bolts tight that won't happen bra:flipoff2:

It happens tho, happened to me at the marlin roundup a few years ago. Borrowed a hub from the man himself cuz I lost the hub.

Been considering doing the 7/16' bolt mod but I've been breaking enough hub gears to not deal with that.

Another cool story. Bra.
 
Wasn't my truck.

Toyota guys are the only ones I know who think they need to take a torque wrench to the entire truck before every run, especially knuckle and hub studs. They guys who constantly tighten their knuckle studs seem to be the ones that always break them too :homer:

I'm guessing if they're constantly coming loose, they're probably close to the limit of what they can handle. Maybe not, I know some guys who break hub gears with stock studs or whatever, that's cool. I was happy to ditch the cone washers myself and never have to check the tq on the bolts. It also makes it much nicer to get the outside bearing and nuts on with no studs.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
Wasn't my truck.

Toyota guys are the only ones I know who think they need to take a torque wrench to the entire truck before every run, especially knuckle and hub studs. They guys who constantly tighten their knuckle studs seem to be the ones that always break them too :homer:

I'm guessing if they're constantly coming loose, they're probably close to the limit of what they can handle. Maybe not, I know some guys who break hub gears with stock studs or whatever, that's cool. I was happy to ditch the cone washers myself and never have to check the tq on the bolts. It also makes it much nicer to get the outside bearing and nuts on with no studs.
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I ran stock knuckle studs for years. 37s on a locked front axle. I always got a quarter turn out of them with the ratchet before each trip. They never broke though. :flipoff2:
 
Rennwagen ( my rig ) has ARP 7/16 bolts instead of cone washers/studs.

I run mid 90s LC 80 hi pinion front with HellfireFab high steer, and the 9.5 full floater rear. ( I run the same bolts for the rear, so I can carry only one spare hub)

Do it. Dont ever look back.

Dont run washers, just bolt head on hub body.

You may need to machine the bolt heads down to clear your wheel.

If I remember correctly, the bolts are big block Ford rod bolts in the catalogue.
 
Aisin said:
I ran stock knuckle studs for years. 37s on a locked front axle. I always got a quarter turn out of them with the ratchet before each trip. They never broke though. :flipoff2:
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Thats cool, you probably spent 10x's more time tightening them than I did drilling and tapping. I didn't even take the hub off.

Elvis-n-texas said:
FJ 80 is the ton axle, of the yota world

( maddle fangerzzz. )
;)
Click to expand...

Uhhhh, no.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
Thats cool, you probably spent 10x's more time tightening them than I did drilling and tapping. I didn't even take the hub off.



Uhhhh, no.
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Literally took 10 seconds per side. I didn’t take my off hub off either. :homer:
 
I have done 3 sets of hubs like this. 7/16" fine thread with the black 12 pt head bolts. Only issue on one truck. After 4 trips,they started to loosen. A little dab of Red lock tite fixed that. I drilled with a drill press, then tapped using the drill press to start the tap (by twisting the chuck by hand) . Didn't take long to knock out six hubs.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
Wasn't my truck.

Toyota guys are the only ones I know who think they need to take a torque wrench to the entire truck before every run, especially knuckle and hub studs. They guys who constantly tighten their knuckle studs seem to be the ones that always break them too :homer:

I'm guessing if they're constantly coming loose, they're probably close to the limit of what they can handle. Maybe not, I know some guys who break hub gears with stock studs or whatever, that's cool. I was happy to ditch the cone washers myself and never have to check the tq on the bolts. It also makes it much nicer to get the outside bearing and nuts on with no studs.
Click to expand...
on 4 stud steering arms i put a torque wrench to the steering arms before every run, and they were loose, and no it wasn't gorilla tight it was factory torque tight..
on 35's doing rough wheeling they would get loose, swap to 6 guns, and it stopped, and i did it with a torque wrench every time, I still check them,

hubs are dowled never had a hub issue ever, olny steering arms, and was taught early check them every run.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
We used Allen's, since I knew we weren't going to find small head flange bolts in a town we didn't know, on a Sunday.

1/2"! I thought the 7/16" was pushing the limits, surprised 1/2" fit.
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they didnt, we had to slightly grind part of the bolt head to get the wheels on :laughing: but it was a trail fix with stuff we could find at the hardware store so its what we could do. it ended up working out fine so its been that way for about 8 yrs now

7/16" is the better choice for sure
 
Elvis-n-texas said:
Rennwagen ( my rig ) has ARP 7/16 bolts instead of cone washers/studs.

I run mid 90s LC 80 hi pinion front with HellfireFab high steer, and the 9.5 full floater rear. ( I run the same bolts for the rear, so I can carry only one spare hub)

Do it. Dont ever look back.

Dont run washers, just bolt head on hub body.

You may need to machine the bolt heads down to clear your wheel.

If I remember correctly, the bolts are big block Ford rod bolts in the catalogue.
Click to expand...
Im running almost the same axle setup. full floater rear fzj80 and hellfires up front, only with a 9.5 diff (ruffstuff housing)

I did this mod to my hubs as well, with allen head style bolts. I sheared my front and rears quite a few times (2uz, late night whisky throttle) and it has saved my hubs ever since. I need to do it to my rear now as well. cheers!
 
anyone know the depth you can drill the hole out to go 7/16? i was looking at doing the same but was going to try preordering the bolts to keep the rig from being down too long.
 
Before I went to a 60 I did the 7/16 mod to my toy axle and never looked back. If I were to ever build another toy axle I wouldn’t waste my time with the stock or aftermarket studs.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
There is a lot of meat there. I think 1" is probably fine, maybe 1 1/4"
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Awesome, thanks.
Anyone looked into doing 7/16” studs instead of bolts? To me studs still sound like a better idea than bolts to be able to use all the available thread engagement in the hub and get as close to the recommended torque for the fastener.
 
ryantowry_81 said:
Awesome, thanks.
Anyone looked into doing 7/16” studs instead of bolts? To me studs still sound like a better idea than bolts to be able to use all the available thread engagement in the hub and get as close to the recommended torque for the fastener.
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It won't work because you can't fit a full size nut for a 7/16 stud, the bolts only work if they're small head or Allen.
 
Reviving this thread... I just ordered the ARP bolts through summit as I sheared the hub bolts off on winch hill 1 this weekend. My question would be how critical is it to have the dowel pins in place? When I sheared the studs off it took the dowel pins with it so I'll have to drill new holes for the dowels.
 
Studs ( can given the correct stud is purchased ) give a pilot, bolts do not, one aspect to take into consideration.
 
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Hodgiemoto said:
Reviving this thread... I just ordered the ARP bolts through summit as I sheared the hub bolts off on winch hill 1 this weekend. My question would be how critical is it to have the dowel pins in place? When I sheared the studs off it took the dowel pins with it so I'll have to drill new holes for the dowels.
Click to expand...
Do you have apace to drill a new stud pattern? They certainly help
 
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