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609 Build for a First Gen Tacoma

Snowy

Well-known member
Joined
May 28, 2020
Member Number
1625
Messages
250
Loc
Northern IL
Looking for some guidance from the masses on a front axle build for my rec wheeler first gen Tacoma. 3RZ/5 speed with duals. I wheel with a light right foot. Truck scales around 4500 lbs ready to wheel.

My heart wants to build a 609 but I'm conflicted on the best way to fit it out. Long term, the truck probably gets LS power down the road.

Currently running a fabbed 61" WMS housing with a low pinion Toyota 8" third and mini outers on 37's. No major issues, just chipping a tooth off the ring gear every 3-4 years, presumably from deflection. There's a pile of 40" tires in the shop now, so I know I'm on borrowed time and it's time to start getting serious about the next axle build. I


Low pinion vs high pinion in front? Saving $2,500 wouldn't suck but I don't want to be beating drive shafts up or breaking LP gears.

99-04 outers vs 05+ outers? It would be super nice to keep the same set of 5 wheels with 6 on 5.5 spacing. But is that a silly sacrifice to get easy 50* steering and 1550 joints on the 05+ stuff?

I've got a complete 05 SD60 on the shop floor as well but I'm not terribly interested in it as a direct swap. Mainly because it'll make my Tacoma too wide to fit in the enclosed trailer and I like the lighter/narrower track of my current setup compared to full width stuff.

I ballparked a few build ideas together here.

Axle build.jpg
 
JMO...build with '05+ outers...bigger joints, more steering and the option to go 40 spline all the way out if you need it.

I'd also do a HP Gearworks third or a Mega Hi-9 since LP 9" is super low and has a horrible driveshaft angle as well as vulnerability to hit rocks.

If you go LP....gear options are a bit limited with the Big 35 spline pinion vs. the 28 spline small pinion (which is slightly smaller than the Toyota 8" pinion at the splines).

Don't know if you're changing drivelines or if you want to keep them Toyota at both ends, but finding flanges that take the 35 spline Big pinion might be a challenge....might have to have them made by someone like Jesse at High Angle Driveline. You can get the Small Pinion ones from TG.

You didn't specify what kind of duals you're running....but gear deep in the axles if you're running gear driven cases or your output shaft could become the weak link.
 
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I'm currently building 2 steering 9" with 99-04 outers and I'd tell you to build 05+!! 05+ are better in almost every way, easier to find and because of that supported by the aftermarket.
 
Tough to convince me to do anything other than 05 or Portal depending on the project/base.

Might be capable of steering angle, but not going to actually get much without going way wide and keeping a body though.
 
now if your wanting a full project that would be stupid cool. and it would pull from all your lists... this is the cut file for a 9 inch rearend. take the file to plaz cutter and weld the parts together. junk yard cost of housing. fab housing strength. i know nothing else about this besides i want to do it...


www.diyoffroad.com

3.5" Tube Fabricated Housing Center Section from JEHC

This is a 3.5″ Fabricated Housing center section, Designed by JEHC, this housing is designed for Desert Racing and pre-running. You can build these housings from mild steel or 4130 Chromoly, MIG or TIG welded, depending on your preference. To complete the housing we suggest the addition of a...
www.diyoffroad.com www.diyoffroad.com

1732051035601.png
 
Nothing wrong with 99-04 outers for a trail truck on 37s. TG has roller kits on sale right now until the 6th. I'd go HP if you can swing it.
 
Sean said:
JMO...build with '05+ outers...bigger joints, more steering and the option to go 40 spline all the way out if you need it.

I'd also do a HP Gearworks third or a Mega Hi-9 since LP 9" is super low and has a horrible driveshaft angle as well as vulnerability to hit rocks.

If you go LP....gear options are a bit limited with the Big 35 spline pinion vs. the 28 spline small pinion (which is slightly smaller than the Toyota 8" pinion at the splines).

Don't know if you're changing drivelines or if you want to keep them Toyota at both ends, but finding flanges that take the 35 spline Big pinion might be a challenge....might have to have them made by someone like Jesse at High Angle Driveline. You can get the Small Pinion ones from TG.

You didn't specify what kind of duals you're running....but gear deep in the axles if you're running gear driven cases or your output shaft could become the weak link.
Click to expand...

Toyota 4.7 box in front of a Tacoma chain case. Driver drop. Would go to an Atlas with an LS.

cdemart2 said:
Nothing wrong with 99-04 outers for a trail truck on 37s. TG has roller kits on sale right now until the 6th. I'd go HP if you can swing it.
Click to expand...

Just mounted up a new set of 40’s. So I’m committed at this point to them.
 
Snowy said:
Toyota 4.7 box in front of a Tacoma chain case. Driver drop. Would go to an Atlas with an LS.



Just mounted up a new set of 40’s. So I’m committed at this point to them.
Click to expand...
If you kept the 4.7 gear driven in the interim, you're probably going to want around 6:1 gearing in the axles which is slim pickings from anyone but GW for HP. LP doesn't have that ratio AFAIK in the 35 spline Big Pinion (BP) gear sets. I'm planning 5.86s (D60F/D70R) with 40s and a dual ultimate MC with 2.28s in the front case and 4.70s in the rear. If I lose an output....I'm going Atlas too. EDIT I'm an idiot. Your reduction box in the front should be fine. Not sure how the planetaries will hold up in the rear case, but I'd guess it's probably fine. ***

Might also shop Quick Performance for complete 3rds. I bought complete LP spooled thirds from ECGS (they're getting flipped to run in portal axles which is why I went the LP route)....and had I to do over, I'd probably have gone with QP or at least shopped them to see if they were competitively priced with BP gears. I ended up with ECGS 3rds made by Yukon.....which it seems much more likely to get Moser or Strange 3rds (pretty sure you can build a complete 3rd from them with either of those and I think they're higher quality). That said, ECGS can get GearWorks 3rds with a load bolt to build for like $465 IIRC.
 
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chaplinfj60 said:
now if your wanting a full project that would be stupid cool. and it would pull from all your lists... this is the cut file for a 9 inch rearend. take the file to plaz cutter and weld the parts together. junk yard cost of housing. fab housing strength. i know nothing else about this besides i want to do it...


www.diyoffroad.com

3.5" Tube Fabricated Housing Center Section from JEHC

This is a 3.5″ Fabricated Housing center section, Designed by JEHC, this housing is designed for Desert Racing and pre-running. You can build these housings from mild steel or 4130 Chromoly, MIG or TIG welded, depending on your preference. To complete the housing we suggest the addition of a...
www.diyoffroad.com www.diyoffroad.com

1732051035601.png
Click to expand...
I had plans to do this but after material costs and the 3.5 1/4 or 3/8 wall tubing costs, the trail gear housing on sale with free shipping from summit was just a little more and less labor.
 
Snowy said:
Looking for some guidance from the masses on a front axle build for my rec wheeler first gen Tacoma. 3RZ/5 speed with duals. I wheel with a light right foot. Truck scales around 4500 lbs ready to wheel.

My heart wants to build a 609 but I'm conflicted on the best way to fit it out. Long term, the truck probably gets LS power down the road.

Currently running a fabbed 61" WMS housing with a low pinion Toyota 8" third and mini outers on 37's. No major issues, just chipping a tooth off the ring gear every 3-4 years, presumably from deflection. There's a pile of 40" tires in the shop now, so I know I'm on borrowed time and it's time to start getting serious about the next axle build. I


Low pinion vs high pinion in front? Saving $2,500 wouldn't suck but I don't want to be beating drive shafts up or breaking LP gears.

99-04 outers vs 05+ outers? It would be super nice to keep the same set of 5 wheels with 6 on 5.5 spacing. But is that a silly sacrifice to get easy 50* steering and 1550 joints on the 05+ stuff?

I've got a complete 05 SD60 on the shop floor as well but I'm not terribly interested in it as a direct swap. Mainly because it'll make my Tacoma too wide to fit in the enclosed trailer and I like the lighter/narrower track of my current setup compared to full width stuff.

I ballparked a few build ideas together here.

Axle build.jpg
Click to expand...
I ran into front driveline issues when I went from dual Toyota cases to an atlas with a low pinion 9 in. The driveshaft would bind just a few inches at droop. I tried a cv driveshaft, single u joint. Clearanced joints. I talked to brain from driveline tech about it a lot and even after adjusting the pinion angle, Solution ended up being a high pinion. I did a true high 9. No complaints but heard they are having a hard time getting gears. New front axle build is getting a gear works hp10 with a zip locker.
 
I just built a set of 99-04 one tons only reason being is I could run Yukon lockouts. Rumor is Ecgs is coming out with lockouts for 05+ stuff so then it’s a no brainer.

If you want to stay with your current bolt pattern then it’s 99/04 outers but plan on spending more than new wheels to keep that pattern.

Just some thoughts. If I was to build axles today it would be 9” gearwirks high pinion front 05+ outers 05+ bearings and cups on the rear same parts at all 4 corners.
 
Since she’s driver drop just narrow up the 05 axle on the long side and run the Superduty axle….

It’s already high pinion, plenty strong, cheap.

Doesn’t seem like there is a ton of gain building a 609 for a rec wheeler.
 
05 outers and a HP 3rd.
You have a 05 donor, use it for parts. Instead of buying 99-04 outer spend the $$ on the HP 3rd. Housing cost is a wash either way you go.
This sets you up for a successful 9" rear using he same unit bearings as the front and reduces the front driveshaft issue.
 
Malburg114 said:
I ran into front driveline issues when I went from dual Toyota cases to an atlas with a low pinion 9 in. The driveshaft would bind just a few inches at droop. I tried a cv driveshaft, single u joint. Clearanced joints. I talked to brain from driveline tech about it a lot and even after adjusting the pinion angle, Solution ended up being a high pinion. I did a true high 9. No complaints but heard they are having a hard time getting gears. New front axle build is getting a gear works hp10 with a zip locker.
Click to expand...

I couldn't remember if you had the Toyota duals when you had that issue or the Atlas yet...But I was thinking of you having issues when I was mulling things over.

Covecrawler said:
Since she’s driver drop just narrow up the 05 axle on the long side and run the Superduty axle….

It’s already high pinion, plenty strong, cheap.

Doesn’t seem like there is a ton of gain building a 609 for a rec wheeler.
Click to expand...

My main reasons for wanting a 609 is to be lighter than a SD 60 and not deal with trying to land an upper link on a cast center. I think a part of why my truck has worked as well as it has, for as long as it has, is that it's still a mini truck at it's core. Small, light, and nimble.

That being said, I'm not saying I can't be talked into narrowing a SD60. It would be a LOT cheaper than anything else I'm planning.
 
your in the rust belt. chances are good you can pick up SD axle for 300 or less all day long. at least we can in iowa. 1550 shafts and gears and the axle is done. not near as sexy as 609. not even close. and landing a link on top of the cast housing is easy. put it ontop of the truss or on the face of it. either way it can be done.

but 609 are cool for sure
 
chaplinfj60 said:
your in the rust belt. chances are good you can pick up SD axle for 300 or less all day long. at least we can in iowa. 1550 shafts and gears and the axle is done. not near as sexy as 609. not even close. and landing a link on top of the cast housing is easy. put it ontop of the truss or on the face of it. either way it can be done.

but 609 are cool for sure
Click to expand...

I've got one from an 05 in the corner of the shop already. I paid $300 and change for it complete about 4 miles from my office.
 
My two cents is to reflect on your driving style and your past breakage. The 05+ stuff is definitely stronger and you get more steering, but if it costs significantly more in your area is it justifiable? I built a bastard front housing with 05+ inner C's and a 99-04 knuckle/unit bearing... Why? I wanted to stay 5x5.5 pattern because I already had multiple sets of wheels/tires. I ran kp stuff before and never had an issue with 1480 joints. The shorter wheelbase (105") made it steer just fine for having spools f/r.

In my neck of the woods, we can't be super wide in order to fit between the trees (80-82" outside tire) so my housing is 65" wms and with diff and link placement sorta being set, 50 deg of steering wasn't real plausible. If you're chipping a tooth here and there with your current setup, I wouldn't be too concerned with 99-04 outers being your weak link even with swapping to a 9" center regardless of HP or LP.

Tuned and cammed 5.3, Hi9, 35 spline, spicer joints, and warn premiums to act as a fusable link. Again, I know those hubs are not the strongest but I've yet to have an issue so I'll continue to do so until I do :flipoff2: I'm sure multiple people on here could make short work of my setup, but its been perfect for my style of wheeling.
 
RustyC said:
Plot twist..

Narrow the HP 60 with one custom 1510 shaft. Use the rest of the budget to build a unit bearing 9" rear.

A little weight in the front axle can be helpful at times.
Click to expand...

You’re not wrong. I can put a lot of fuel in the tow rig plus build a rear axle with the Pennie’s saved on a narrowed SD60.

But it’s not near as cool :flipoff2:
 
I don't think you are going to be light and nimble with anything that has super thick tubes, D60 outers, etc. If you want that stay with mini truck axles.

I've got a narrowed 99 axle for cheap money. Slug machined for the long side tube which has less then $100. Resplined the long side inner for probably $150 total. Axle was free but they are pretty cheap.

Yes you'll need gears, lockers, maybe shafts. Going to need that for any axle regardless. So you probably will be in much cheaper then a 609 or most anything else.

I narrowed a rear D60 and that was way more expensive. To use Superduty hubs, the shafts/slugs/etc was around $2500 all in.

But this all can be done still pretty cheap and with junkyard parts.

Be careful with using Superduty front axles with low ride height. The diff sits way out compared to most older axles. It will either land the diff near your frame rail and/or make your front driveshaft not straight off the tcase. All of this creates packaging issues or keeps you from having a good driveshaft angle for street use. FYI
 
I already told him if he was serious about being light and nimble, he would have kicked all the windows out of it, cut the roof off, and gutted the interior a long time ago:flipoff2:

Narrow the 60, put a 14b in it and wheel!
 
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