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5vz-fe Swap Ignition Wiring

DuckTape

Well-known member
Joined
May 20, 2020
Member Number
501
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223
There's a ton of information out there on this, but I'm still running into issues. The problem I'm running into is that I am not getting ignition signal to the starter which feels symptomatic of no clutch cancel / neutral safety switch stuff. I also do not hear the fuel pump kick on. Part of the problem is that I have a collection of parts that I've cobbled together to try to make this thing run. I really don't know what everything came out of. Here's what I know:

  • 1991 donor pickup, originally a 3.0 auto
  • 3.4 donor motor, origin unknown
  • 5 speed 3.0 transmission, origin unknown
  • ORS adaptor harness, no labels, origin unknown
  • 5vz-fe computer, origin unknown
This is the pin configuration of the ECM

Screenshot 2024-06-01 at 1.08.04 PM.png


I tried sending 12v to E8-17 but that didn't do anything.

Screenshot 2024-06-01 at 1.08.26 PM.png


  • I have power to the dash and accessories
  • I have checked all of the ignition and Starter fuses
  • Both of the ECM pinouts above I found in a Land Cruiser repair manual so maybe I'm looking at bad info? Otherwise, I haven't found pinout information with this ECM plug configuration.

Any help would be appreciated.
 
The A/T ECU shouldn’t matter if it’s a 5-speed.

Do you have an A/T or M/T harness from ORS? I don’t know if ORS uses standard color wiring convention Toyota uses so the info below may not help much (I know these are the colors used on a 1999 harness, may be different for other years).

If it’s an A/T harness, jump pins 5 & 6 on the park/neutral safety switch which plugs into the transmission (it’s the two biggest wires going into the plug, one wire should be black and the other wire should be black with a white stripe).

If it’s an M/T harness, jump the pins on the clutch depress switch (again one wire is black and the other wire is black with a white stripe).
 
89666-35141 fits 2000-2002 4Runner. I think your diagram is funky, connectors are the same shape but the main connector numbers are wrong.

From the 2002 4Runner repair manual.
1717541075161.png

1717540978557.png
 
If you bought the harness from ORS, why wouldn't you call them? They've helped me with random questions and probably know the easiest/ quickest fix. You already paid them the cash, might as well use their free service.
 
Team_Jake said:
The A/T ECU shouldn’t matter if it’s a 5-speed.

Do you have an A/T or M/T harness from ORS? I don’t know if ORS uses standard color wiring convention Toyota uses so the info below may not help much (I know these are the colors used on a 1999 harness, may be different for other years).

If it’s an A/T harness, jump pins 5 & 6 on the park/neutral safety switch which plugs into the transmission (it’s the two biggest wires going into the plug, one wire should be black and the other wire should be black with a white stripe).

If it’s an M/T harness, jump the pins on the clutch depress switch (again one wire is black and the other wire is black with a white stripe).
Click to expand...
Thank you. It is a 5 speed, and it is the same one that the previous owner ran with this configuration so I know this worked at one point in It's life. Not sure on which harness it is. I'd guess M/T but idk.
 
Sluggy said:
If you bought the harness from ORS, why wouldn't you call them? They've helped me with random questions and probably know the easiest/ quickest fix. You already paid them the cash, might as well use their free service.
Click to expand...
I bought this second hand but may submit a request through their site to see if they'll help.
 
Chkn said:
89666-35141 fits 2000-2002 4Runner. I think your diagram is funky, connectors are the same shape but the main connector numbers are wrong.

From the 2002 4Runner repair manual.
1717541075161.png

1717540978557.png
Click to expand...
This looks promising, I too suspect that what I was looking at isn't the right pinout. If I'm reading your diagram correctly, E14, 3 would be the neutral safety switch. :beer:
 
DuckTape said:
This looks promising, I too suspect that what I was looking at isn't the right pinout. If I'm reading your diagram correctly, E14, 3 would be the neutral safety switch. :beer:
Click to expand...
E14-3 is the start signal.
E14-7 is confirmation that NSW is working.
IIRC you need battery voltage on both to enable start/run on the ECU side.
 
Is the transmission gear indicator switch still on the harness. I've known people to keep that switch and leave it in neutral, bang limiter.

Also ORS harnesses will have some kind of tag for build reference near the ecu plugs. All of mine were located there
 
Sluggy said:
Is the transmission gear indicator switch still on the harness.
Click to expand...
Totally different Toyotas~ I did two 5 speed/3 pedal (3AC) swaps, I just added a wire to loop it after leaving the auto switch/reverse behind-
 
Sluggy said:
Is the transmission gear indicator switch still on the harness. I've known people to keep that switch and leave it in neutral, bang limiter.

Also ORS harnesses will have some kind of tag for build reference near the ecu plugs. All of mine were located there
Click to expand...
Unfortunately no, all of the auto trans and wiring is gone.

Most of the labels on the harness are also gone. This has been sitting in pieces for a long time.

I can confirm from this evening that E14-7 has an online 7.5 amp inline fuse labeled starter and i think goes to the starter ignitor. I blew this fuse tonight trying to jump stuff, but now I get a really strange behavior. With the key in the run and/or start positions, I get voltage on the ecm side but if I jump across the fuse, all voltage disappears.

Also, E14-2 has a 7.5 amp inline fuse labeled Ignition and has voltage going to the ECM with the key in the on position and while trying to start. 14-3 also does have power when in start and run key positions. Both pins connect to the dash harness.
 
Are you still fighting with this? I think you are looking at the wiring diagram all backwards. The ECU does NOT command the starter, that wire to the ecu is just a trigger to tell the ecu that the key is in the start setting and then the ecu changes the ignition timing to baseline for starting. You don't even need the ecu installed to get the starter to crank.
 
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