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5VZ-FE Possible Head Gasket

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are they TTY bolts?
no. We reused them all the time when I was doing those under warranty and the X06 campaign at Toyota. There is a length spec...if they're over length, replace them.

The torque value + angle spec exists for a very simple reason....accuracy in arriving at the proper clamp load.

25lb/ft doesn't stretch the bolt...it's gets us close to a "zero" point. If you want to stretch a bolt with 1mm thread spacing exactly 1/2mm, then you need to turn it 1/2 turn from "snug". It doesn't matter if the threads are rusty, clean and dry, oiled, greased with ARP super grease, or whatever....1/2 turn will get you 1/2mm of bolt stretch.

If we have a spec of 70ft.lbs, the clamp created will vary greatly between rusty threads, clean and dry, oiled, and ARP super grease.
 
no. We reused them all the time when I was doing those under warranty and the X06 campaign at Toyota. There is a length spec...if they're over length, replace them.

The torque value + angle spec exists for a very simple reason....accuracy in arriving at the proper clamp load.

25lb/ft doesn't stretch the bolt...it's gets us close to a "zero" point. If you want to stretch a bolt with 1mm thread spacing exactly 1/2mm, then you need to turn it 1/2 turn from "snug". It doesn't matter if the threads are rusty, clean and dry, oiled, greased with ARP super grease, or whatever....1/2 turn will get you 1/2mm of bolt stretch.

If we have a spec of 70ft.lbs, the clamp created will vary greatly between rusty threads, clean and dry, oiled, and ARP super grease.
I should have but I didn't measure a new one vs. an old one, but I got 8 new ones, I chased all the bolt holes with a bottoming tap, and basically cleaned the bottom two threads of every hole, betting none of those bolts are that long, but especially on heads I run a tap.
I also didn't install them dry, they got a light coat of penetrating oil.

I did understand 25ft lbs is a min load as a starting point, then did the 90* and 90* again.
 
no. We reused them all the time when I was doing those under warranty and the X06 campaign at Toyota. There is a length spec...if they're over length, replace them.

The torque value + angle spec exists for a very simple reason....accuracy in arriving at the proper clamp load.

25lb/ft doesn't stretch the bolt...it's gets us close to a "zero" point. If you want to stretch a bolt with 1mm thread spacing exactly 1/2mm, then you need to turn it 1/2 turn from "snug". It doesn't matter if the threads are rusty, clean and dry, oiled, greased with ARP super grease, or whatever....1/2 turn will get you 1/2mm of bolt stretch.

If we have a spec of 70ft.lbs, the clamp created will vary greatly between rusty threads, clean and dry, oiled, and ARP super grease.


hijack... weren't the 3vze bolts TTY?
 
hijack... weren't the 3vze bolts TTY?
I don't believe so, but it's been 20 years since I worked on one of the piles and read the service manual. Did tons of those...that was the V06 campaign. We never changed the bolts, just measured them and resused...and stopped measuring them after a while because they were always good.
 
I should have but I didn't measure a new one vs. an old one, but I got 8 new ones, I chased all the bolt holes with a bottoming tap, and basically cleaned the bottom two threads of every hole, betting none of those bolts are that long, but especially on heads I run a tap.
I also didn't install them dry, they got a light coat of penetrating oil.

I did understand 25ft lbs is a min load as a starting point, then did the 90* and 90* again.
Toyota specs a light coating of clean engine oil...so you did it wrong :flipoff2:

But it doesn't matter because you used the torque value + angle method rather than just a torque value :flipoff2:
 
Toyota specs a light coating of clean engine oil...so you did it wrong:flipoff2:

But it doesn't matter because you used the torque value + angle method rather than just a torque value :flipoff2:
If that's all I do wrong on this project it will be a miracle:lmao:

Tomorrow will be dropping the cams back in, exhaust, intake
 
and Friday is Magnusson time? :grinpimp:
300k and all I need is transportation. no Magnusson on this one, It will be a success if it runs again:lmao:

Before I fire it I need to drop the pan and reseal it, pull the oil cooler and reseal that.
 
I miss driving my xcab... every time I get in the dcab, I wish it had an S/C...
 
Makes for a zero lash(ish) cam gear mesh
after I asked I thought it out,
it has nothing to do with variable cam timing because the other gear is fixed so it has to be a tensioning deal.
it's all new to me.
but I did put a bolt through them to lock them in place
 
Well today was a kick in the nuts, I'm off work due to a torn rotator cuff injury, I can't lift my left arm more than a couple inches off my hip.
But I've been slowly plugging away, today was buttoning up exhaust manifolds and rear crossover pipe, the top end is 99% back together, the front cat is still off so open exhaust, and a couple vacuum lines, so I planned to do a quick start just to hear it light off.

I pulled the ecu relay under the hood so I could crank it until I got oil pressure then reinstall and start it. so far so good, cranked it over two or three times until the oil like was off solid, I felt good about oil pressure. I reinstalled the ecu relay and cranked it, sputter on the first crank, probably 4 or 5 revolutions, hit it again and it fires, I let it run 10 seconds or so, and feeling proud if myself I stand triumphantly at the driver door, about that time the wife screams F I R E.

Yup the whole intake is on fire, I know worst case bot I grab the garden hose, and flooded under the throttle body, washing it all off the motor and into the gravel, still working the hose like an idiot i managed to flush it all out from under the truck and down the driveway.

Tomorrow will be pulling the intake and seeing how much damage I've done.
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20230711_183445.jpg
 
Well today was a kick in the nuts, I'm off work due to a torn rotator cuff injury, I can't lift my left arm more than a couple inches off my hip.
But I've been slowly plugging away, today was buttoning up exhaust manifolds and rear crossover pipe, the top end is 99% back together, the front cat is still off so open exhaust, and a couple vacuum lines, so I planned to do a quick start just to hear it light off.

I pulled the ecu relay under the hood so I could crank it until I got oil pressure then reinstall and start it. so far so good, cranked it over two or three times until the oil like was off solid, I felt good about oil pressure. I reinstalled the ecu relay and cranked it, sputter on the first crank, probably 4 or 5 revolutions, hit it again and it fires, I let it run 10 seconds or so, and feeling proud if myself I stand triumphantly at the driver door, about that time the wife screams F I R E.

Yup the whole intake is on fire, I know worst case bot I grab the garden hose, and flooded under the throttle body, washing it all off the motor and into the gravel, still working the hose like an idiot i managed to flush it all out from under the truck and down the driveway.

Tomorrow will be pulling the intake and seeing how much damage I've done.
20230711_183516.jpg
20230711_183445.jpg


I need your fenders, the clear coat is nicer then mine:laughing:

So you thinking fuel rail/injector leak? Or an oil leak?
 
I need your fenders, the clear coat is nicer then mine:laughing:

So you thinking fuel rail/injector leak? Or an oil leak?
Thinking fuel rail. I think I pumped a bunch of raw fuel on the manifold, and with the collector exposed it flashed over.

it was just a kick in the nuts, I was chugging along, I'm hurt from work, it has been a huge one armed struggle, and this was going to be a small victory.

Life goes on:flipoff2:
 
Thinking fuel rail. I think I pumped a bunch of raw fuel on the manifold, and with the collector exposed it flashed over.

it was just a kick in the nuts, I was chugging along, I'm hurt from work, it has been a huge one armed struggle, and this was going to be a small victory.

Life goes on:flipoff2:

Atleast you get twice as much practice doing it with one arm:flipoff2:

But really, that sucks. I always hate having to take things back apart when something small turns big.

So since you have to take the intake off.... time to rethink that supercharger?:laughing:
 
Atleast you get twice as much practice doing it with one arm:flipoff2:

But really, that sucks. I always hate having to take things back apart when something small turns big.

So since you have to take the intake off.... time to rethink that supercharger?:laughing:
you see the commuter, not getting a SC. it's our little beater.
 
On the plus side, it ran!!
Yup, no check engine, so 4 cams, crank and belt are all good,
I went from chest out proud of myself to nuts in my pocket wtf just happened,

My left arm is just about useless, I'm seeing Dr's and therapists every day, this was my one victory and I just about burnt it to the ground.

It will sort out:lmao::lmao:
 
Todays update, pulled the intake and found an injector leaking from the input. so bought a replacement set of O rings.

Looks like I was quick enough with the hose that none of the wiring is damaged. small setback, but I'll keep moving forward.
This rig is gonna run, one way or another,
My son said I should have let it burn and claim Ins.
 
As of 9:15 this morning it runs, I fired it up and watched it for 30 mins or so, Idling water temp reached 175, I'm sure when I cleaned the block surface I got a ton of crud in the water passages, Tomorrow will be pul the thermostat and do a radiator flush, but idle is smooth, and it revs good. I didnt take it out for a drive, that will be tomorrows project.

No check engine, and smooth idle, so gonna say cams and timing belt are all in sync.
I have a video, but big deal it's a 3.4 not a blown BB.:flipoff2:
 
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