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5hp mercury outboard

Its storming so the shakedown run is postponed.
Ordered a tube of 5200 and a stainless while wheel incase it needs patching up.
Should I get some oars or a trolling motor? Figure I should have some type of backup plan.
 
If your gonna be fishing, trolling motor. I use the gas to get to a spot and trolling motor to fish. Also, get oars, cause batteries die and still leave you stranded.
 
Ugly pumpkin said:
Its storming so the shakedown run is postponed.
Ordered a tube of 5200 and a stainless while wheel incase it needs patching up.
Should I get some oars or a trolling motor? Figure I should have some type of backup plan.
Click to expand...

At minimum you need a paddle shaped instrument. The nicest boat on the planet will still leave your ass paddling, :stirthepot:
 
Older riveted aluminium boats suck. You can try and re set them with a hammer and dolly. I have an old leaky sportspal canoe Im working on. Im planning on rhino lining it inside and out.
 
Stuck said:
Older riveted aluminium boats suck. You can try and re set them with a hammer and dolly. I have an old leaky sportspal canoe Im working on. Im planning on rhino lining it inside and out.
Click to expand...

The plan is to schmoo on the 5200 and see how that does. If that fails, patch panels will be made and riveted or welded on.
We'll see.
 
Some boat stuff came in today. Hopefully 6.5' is a good length for the oars.
Got into some fuckery after to many sodas and smashed a trailer light. New ones will be here tomorrow. Also waiting on new registration in mail.
Will smear on the schmoo today or tomorrow. Hopefully that seals her up.
20200819_175144.jpg
 
I think they're supposed to a fist or two distance between the ends of the oars. You need leverage.

https://www.shawandtenney.com/how-size-your-oars
How to Size Your Oars

To determine the correct length oar for your boat measure the distance between the port and starboard oar sockets. Then apply the Shaw and Tenney oar length formula to determine the oar length that will provide the correct 7:18 leverage ratio. This length will provide an oar where 7/25 the length is inboard of the oarlocks and 18/25 of the oar is outboard of the oarlocks. It is the ideal ratio to row almost all boats. Sized correctly, when rowing your hands will be 1 to 3 inches apart and you will be pulling directly towards your abdomen. If you are popping out of your oarlocks when rowing your oars are far too short. If you prefer an overlapping grip, add 6” to the calculated oar length. If you have more than one rowing station in your boat, measure both. Typically they will require two different length oars which is fine if you’re going to be rowing tandem and need two sets. Otherwise you’ll need to compromise the correct length to work properly in both stations. If you are rowing more than 75% in one station size the oar to that length. As always feel free to call us and were happy to help you select the correct oar length and blade style for your boat.
The Original Shaw & Tenney Oar Length Formula

To help our customers size their oars correctly, we’ve been using the same formula since 1858: Measure the distance between the center of the port and starboard oar sockets, which hold the oar locks on each gunnel. This is called the “span” between the oarlocks. Divide the span by 2, and then add 2 to this number. The result is called the “inboard loom length” of the oar. Multiply the loom length by 25, and then divide that number by 7. The result is the proper oar length in inches. Round up or down to the closest 6” increment.



This guy used a rule of thirds
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LPBYJS0G6xE
 
Pony_Driver said:
I think they're supposed to a fist or two distance between the ends of the oars. You need leverage.

https://www.shawandtenney.com/how-size-your-oars
How to Size Your Oars

To determine the correct length oar for your boat measure the distance between the port and starboard oar sockets. Then apply the Shaw and Tenney oar length formula to determine the oar length that will provide the correct 7:18 leverage ratio. This length will provide an oar where 7/25 the length is inboard of the oarlocks and 18/25 of the oar is outboard of the oarlocks. It is the ideal ratio to row almost all boats. Sized correctly, when rowing your hands will be 1 to 3 inches apart and you will be pulling directly towards your abdomen. If you are popping out of your oarlocks when rowing your oars are far too short. If you prefer an overlapping grip, add 6” to the calculated oar length. If you have more than one rowing station in your boat, measure both. Typically they will require two different length oars which is fine if you’re going to be rowing tandem and need two sets. Otherwise you’ll need to compromise the correct length to work properly in both stations. If you are rowing more than 75% in one station size the oar to that length. As always feel free to call us and were happy to help you select the correct oar length and blade style for your boat.
The Original Shaw & Tenney Oar Length Formula

To help our customers size their oars correctly, we’ve been using the same formula since 1858: Measure the distance between the center of the port and starboard oar sockets, which hold the oar locks on each gunnel. This is called the “span” between the oarlocks. Divide the span by 2, and then add 2 to this number. The result is called the “inboard loom length” of the oar. Multiply the loom length by 25, and then divide that number by 7. The result is the proper oar length in inches. Round up or down to the closest 6” increment.



This guy used a rule of thirds
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LPBYJS0G6xE
Click to expand...

Off to measure. Guess I should have researched a little.
Thanks!

Edit: 5' between oarlocks. Any math wiz out there? I've been drinking.
 
Last edited:
5'×12"=60"
60"-2"=58"
58"÷2=29"
a×7/25ths=29"
...???

Edit. 7÷25=.28
a×.28=29"
???...

Edit no.2 Watched video. Baised on his 2/3rds principle, I have 29" in so I should have 58" out which totals 87"or 7'4" so I'm a foot short. Think I'll be ok? Don't plan on rowing unless things go bad.
 
Last edited:
They’ll be fine.
I’ve used my oars in a row boat style maybe twice. Otherwise I just paddle like a canoe. If you’re good enough you can turn the motor just right so it stays in a semi-straight line And you don’t have to switch sides often.
 
So did you find any leaks? Im getting ready to fix up an old sportspal canoe and have been thinking of using alumiweld sticks to seal any leaking seams. Anybody used them?
 
Stuck said:
So did you find any leaks? Im getting ready to fix up an old sportspal canoe and have been thinking of using alumiweld sticks to seal any leaking seams. Anybody used them?
Click to expand...

Have not got it in the water yet. Registration, trailer lights, oars, throwable, lifevests, are all here. Need to apply 3m 5200 to leak and install trailer lights. Then shakedown run.
Canceled a visit with the family this weekend because my dog got mange or something with his skin.:( So maybe get the boat in the water in a day or two.
Waiting on air horn and flare gun to show up in the mail.
The 5200 comes highly recommended so I'm feeling confident about it.
 
Very familiar with 5200. I want something I can paint but I may go that right.
 
I was wondering what happened to you. Thought the boat sank and you were floating around somewhere.
 
4x4orbust said:
I was wondering what happened to you. Thought the boat sank and you were floating around somewhere.
Click to expand...

Story time.

A couple weekends ago I had a couple beers for breakfast. This was the morning after I filled the boat with water to check for leaks.
As the beers went down my excitement went up about a shakedown run. (Remember I had just got the godforsaken mercury running a day or two before.)
The boat trailer was hitched to my garden tractor and nose down and very much full of water even with the drain plug pulled.
I decided it was a good idea to back her down the hill in the backyard so she would drain and I could take her out to the sea.
The girlfriend protested this plan very much but I persisted.
As you would expect, it didn't go well. The boat edged down the hill, the water in the boat shifted to the back, the tractor brakes decided they weren't up for the task. I threw her in first and dug some nice trenches with the tires. This also got things jackknifed. The tractor started to go over and I jumped for my life.
The old lady was screaming, the tractor was running upside down, the boat was uncoupled and looked to be crashed into my neighbors barn and I was lawndarted into, my lawn.
Long story short, the boat bounced off the fender of my parts tractor and stopped a foot from hitting the neighbors barn. The poor guy now has a tiny dent in the back corner. I flipped the tractor back over with my truck and its fine. My neck and shoulder was sore for a week. The old lady gave me shit for the rest of the weekend.
After this episode, I decided to delay the shakedown run until I had my shit together to avoid any future boating accidents. Given that I'd already had one and we haven't been in the water yet. :rasta:
It is now Friday, I am drinking coffee. The plan is to apply registration stickers to the boat and redo the trailer wiring and lights.
Then beers and shakedown run! FTW:lmao:
 
I feel like you and I would get along just fine in person. Sounds like a normal weekend adventure for me.
 
Ugly pumpkin said:
Story time.

A couple weekends ago I had a couple beers for breakfast. This was the morning after I filled the boat with water to check for leaks.
As the beers went down my excitement went up about a shakedown run. (Remember I had just got the godforsaken mercury running a day or two before.)
The boat trailer was hitched to my garden tractor and nose down and very much full of water even with the drain plug pulled.
I decided it was a good idea to back her down the hill in the backyard so she would drain and I could take her out to the sea.
The girlfriend protested this plan very much but I persisted.
As you would expect, it didn't go well. The boat edged down the hill, the water in the boat shifted to the back, the tractor brakes decided they weren't up for the task. I threw her in first and dug some nice trenches with the tires. This also got things jackknifed. The tractor started to go over and I jumped for my life.
The old lady was screaming, the tractor was running upside down, the boat was uncoupled and looked to be crashed into my neighbors barn and I was lawndarted into, my lawn.
Long story short, the boat bounced off the fender of my parts tractor and stopped a foot from hitting the neighbors barn. The poor guy now has a tiny dent in the back corner. I flipped the tractor back over with my truck and its fine. My neck and shoulder was sore for a week. The old lady gave me shit for the rest of the weekend.
After this episode, I decided to delay the shakedown run until I had my shit together to avoid any future boating accidents. Given that I'd already had one and we haven't been in the water yet. :rasta:
It is now Friday, I am drinking coffee. The plan is to apply registration stickers to the boat and redo the trailer wiring and lights.
Then beers and shakedown run! FTW:lmao:
Click to expand...

Great story!

Pix of the old lady :flipoff2::flipoff2::flipoff2:
 
Just to throw salt in the wound. You may want to check that corner seam for leaks now. If it moved enough to crack the paint on that seam it may have moved enough to leak. Put the boat in the water without the engine on the back and stand back there. If its dry then throw on the motor and go to town.
 
4x4orbust said:
I feel like you and I would get along just fine in person. Sounds like a normal weekend adventure for me.
Click to expand...

Come on up. I need a co conspirator. The old lady gets scared to easy and is to rational the rest of the time. Fridge is full of beer and I could use some help with this boat crap if you haven't noticed yet.
 
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