What's new
By:
Filters

4x6 fabricating table for tiny shop…

FleshEater

FleshEater

Ordinary Average Guy
Joined
May 21, 2020
Member Number
832
Messages
3,372
Loc
Pennsylvania
So I keep eyeing up this 4x6 table. It has a 1.25” thick steel top on it.

I would love to put this in my shop, but I’m pretty sure it will get in my way, unless I have wheels on it. However, with wheels I also want to be able to level it out.

I was considering fabricating up small hydraulic bottle jacks for each corner that would jack up the corners when I move it around. Figure I could weld up a square base to steady the bottom of the floor jack, and then weld a tab to push the table up.

It’s hard to explain what I’m thinking. Does anyone have any homemade adjusters for a 1,500lbs. table?

My other idea is to just leave 2’ of gap around two sides and push it into a corner. :confused:

Pic.

IMG_2031.png
 
Sort by date Sort by votes
Wisconsinite said:
I built this little table a few years ago, and had similar requirements. Needed wheels, and needed to be soild and level when required.

1700688725945.png


I made these caster feet, and then added a nut on the bottom to affix the leveling feet.

1700688791418.png


1700688811282.png


Then add reciever tubing, and make all your tools removable.

1700688848128.png


1700688901948.png
Click to expand...

Man I like that idea. Way cheaper than my idea.
 
Upvote 0 Downvote
I made the leveling feet studs out of threaded rod and a welded nut. I had the feet since I am a horder. Super nice when you need it level and solid.

With that thick of a top, it is begging to be drilled and tapped for a clamp/fixture table.
 
Upvote 0 Downvote
Wisconsinite said:
I made the leveling feet studs out of threaded rod and a welded nut. I had the feet since I am a horder. Super nice when you need it level and solid.

With that thick of a top, it is begging to be drilled and tapped for a clamp/fixture table.
Click to expand...

It’s only 35” tall so I don’t want to get too crazy. However, casters might bring it up another 4”-6” realistically. So it might be handier than it is now.

I also don’t have any way to drill that many holes for a fixture table. It’d be nice, but not possible.
 
Upvote 0 Downvote
I'm in a huge shop now, but something I learned on (P)irate a long time ago was use a pallet jack to move all your stuff like this.

It can live under the table when it's in the corner. Just need to put the x bars 3" off the ground.

I still move my bender, roller, and all tables when I need to with a cheap pallet jack.
 
Upvote 0 Downvote
jamscal said:
I'm in a huge shop now, but something I learned on (P)irate a long time ago was use a pallet jack to move all your stuff like this.

It can live under the table when it's in the corner. Just need to put the x bars 3" off the ground.

I still move my bender, roller, and all tables when I need to with a cheap pallet jack.
Click to expand...

The pallet jack idea is genius.

I just spent all night in the shop planning out my next move to turn it into a mostly fab shop. Going to build out my shed for storage and just pack it full.

I’ll clean out all my shit next summer and hoard less. :lmao:

:flipoff2:
 
Upvote 0 Downvote
jamscal said:
I'm in a huge shop now, but something I learned on (P)irate a long time ago was use a pallet jack to move all your stuff like this.

It can live under the table when it's in the corner. Just need to put the x bars 3" off the ground.

I still move my bender, roller, and all tables when I need to with a cheap pallet jack.
Click to expand...

I've adopted this method here in my place as well; especially material racks and things that don't need to be perfectly leveled out.


FleshEater said:
I also don’t have any way to drill that many holes for a fixture table. It’d be nice, but not possible.
Click to expand...

I've got a 1/2" thick top table and a 6 -1/2" thick acorn table but am building something in between. My plan is to have a template made, or make one, with the Bridgeport and then work a grid around the table top with a mag drill to transfer my pattern incrementally. Haven't decided it I want to go with round holes or go ahead and tap the thing.
 
Upvote 0 Downvote
AlxJ64 said:
I've adopted this method here in my place as well; especially material racks and things that don't need to be perfectly leveled out.




I've got a 1/2" thick top table and a 6 -1/2" thick acorn table but am building something in between. My plan is to have a template made, or make one, with the Bridgeport and then work a grid around the table top with a mag drill to transfer my pattern incrementally. Haven't decided it I want to go with round holes or go ahead and tap the thing.
Click to expand...

Since this is replacing my workbench I’ll be building engines, transfer cases, differentials, etc. on it. Holes everywhere just won’t work. But a HUGE work surface I can weld, grind, and sledge on is perfect.
 
Upvote 0 Downvote
FleshEater said:
It’s only 35” tall so I don’t want to get too crazy. However, casters might bring it up another 4”-6” realistically. So it might be handier than it is now.

I also don’t have any way to drill that many holes for a fixture table. It’d be nice, but not possible.
Click to expand...
This looks like a good way to lay out your holes for a fixture table, Welding Table Drill Guide + Kit - 3/4" Systems
You would also need to rent or have a mag drill and a annular cutter but could be had pretty easily.
 
Upvote 0 Downvote
AlxJ64 said:
My plan is to have a template made, or make one, with the Bridgeport and then work a grid around the table top with a mag drill to transfer my pattern incrementally.
Click to expand...

yep said:
This looks like a good way to lay out your holes for a fixture table, Welding Table Drill Guide + Kit - 3/4" Systems
Click to expand...

I just saw that video the other day and am considering the guide for doing my table. Kind of expensive, but considering the drill guides and accessories - and that it could be used for fixturing with the finished table it isn't unreasonable. I have the mag drill, but would need the cutter.
 
Upvote 0 Downvote
I've seemed having something like this laser cut to use for locating a mag drill.

tsoproducts.com

UJK Parf Guide System Mark II

Create custom 20mm worktops with the UJK Parf Guide System Mark II for sale. This drilling system is quick & easy to use, with guaranteed results every time.
tsoproducts.com tsoproducts.com
 
Upvote 0 Downvote
A couple of My roll around shop fab/weld tables I built several years ago. I did the 2” receiver tube welded under side for my vice and tubing notcher supports. I need to lower my vice upright post on the mounting.

I have a decent sized chassis fab table I built on a trailer frame that I roll in and out when I need to weld up larger projects.

IMG_0746.jpeg
IMG_0748.jpeg
IMG_0753.jpeg
IMG_0754.jpeg
 
Upvote 0 Downvote
I got a quote from my local steel yard within the past couple years for doing all the drilling on a fab table top - I believe it came out to about a dollar per hole for 5/8" holes, which seems like a great deal. Especially for the accuracy compared to drilling your own.

I just drilled 216 5/8" holes in some 1" plate for a fixture, and used a piece of 1/4" plate I drilled out on the mill as a guide. Towards the end I started having to wiggle the annular cutter inside the hole and try to eyeball center it, as all the holes opened up a bit. I sharpie'd the inside of all the holes and after drilling one hole in each, there was no ink left just from all the chips wearing it off as they're ejected. Wonder if the holes actually opened up from ejected chips even if the cutter isn't necessarily wearing on them
 
Upvote 0 Downvote
desertPOS said:
I got a quote from my local steel yard within the past couple years for doing all the drilling on a fab table top - I believe it came out to about a dollar per hole for 5/8" holes, which seems like a great deal. Especially for the accuracy compared to drilling your own.

I just drilled 216 5/8" holes in some 1" plate for a fixture, and used a piece of 1/4" plate I drilled out on the mill as a guide. Towards the end I started having to wiggle the annular cutter inside the hole and try to eyeball center it, as all the holes opened up a bit. I sharpie'd the inside of all the holes and after drilling one hole in each, there was no ink left just from all the chips wearing it off as they're ejected. Wonder if the holes actually opened up from ejected chips even if the cutter isn't necessarily wearing on them
Click to expand...
I would think you'd transfer punch the holes to the work then spot them with a spotting drill or something.

Making the guide with drill bushings is a option but borders on machining for most of us.
 
Upvote 0 Downvote
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top Back Refresh