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'25 RAM/Cummins ZF transmission

Other than the e circuit errors thats normally fixed with a new solenoid they do seem to be incredibly stout
IMG_6299.jpeg


To be fair, those solenoids are not difficult to change. Had them and the entire mechatronic unit out and the seals all swapped in about half an hour (on the bench, add another hour if you’re doing it in the vehicle). Once the pan is off it’s like 5 bolts. :smokin:

This was on a ZF6HP26x, but they’re pretty similar.
 
While you’re in here, what will cause them to shudder at low speed, ~15-20 mph trying to hold the speed as I go uphill through a neighborhood? Shudder stops when either accelerating or coasting. Feels like TCC shudder?
Had it been serviced?
Fixed my tcc shudder with new fluid.
 
I thought only the aisin was every 30k?




Make standards great again!:usa::flipoff2:

i don't know if its ONLY the Aisin but its 30k for fluid, 60k for fluid and filter. ive held to it and still going hard at 213k
 
i don't know if its ONLY the Aisin but its 30k for fluid, 60k for fluid and filter. ive held to it and still going hard at 213k
I meant dodge slush boxes.

I too, adhere to the 30k intervals with my 21 aisin.
 
Since this thread is fubar anyway I just came here to say we are all concerned with the CP4 meanwhile (it appears) the GM boys have their own shit sandwich related to the l5p engine, metal in fuel filters from the injectors? Failing lift pump in the tank, double head gaskets, bad wire connectors?

I did some googling and yeah they have their own special slice of bullshit...
 
Since this thread is fubar anyway I just came here to say we are all concerned with the CP4 meanwhile (it appears) the GM boys have their own shit sandwich related to the l5p engine, metal in fuel filters from the injectors? Failing lift pump in the tank, double head gaskets, bad wire connectors?

I did some googling and yeah they have their own special slice of bullshit...

I have a friend who JUST dealt with the bad wire connections.

His L5P went into limp mode. He called me and asked for some advice, my brother ran over there with a scanner and it was cylinder 7 misfire and a cylinder 7 electrical issue code.

Googled it, seemed almost 100% that it was a bad connector to the injector. GM has a bulletin out for it. He brought it to one local shop, they wouldn’t touch it so he brought it to a place that just does diesels and they said he’s around the 25th L5P they have done this electrical connector issue on. I live in a state that isn’t very populated and it was done by a shop that is a local mom and pop so 25 seems like a significant issue.

As much as I am not a ram person, I have had friends with CP4 issues on the ford platform and now 1 friend with L5P issues. He’s also 1 of 2 friends in a L5P. I’d say I have the most friends in the ram 6.7 then ford 6.7 and only 2 in an L5P.

No real issues with my ram friends, they all have CP3 rams. I hope they don’t have the grid heater bolt take out a cylinder.
 
Got an 8HP in my 5 series and it's probably the sweetest auto I've ever had. I hear good things about quality and long term reliability, so fingers crossed, cos I'm keeping this thing till the wheels fall off.
This, the Gladiator has a ZF 8HP and my experience with them has been great. It's better imho the the Ford 10 speeds I have owned and I was pretty happy with those.
 
I have a friend who JUST dealt with the bad wire connections.

His L5P went into limp mode. He called me and asked for some advice, my brother ran over there with a scanner and it was cylinder 7 misfire and a cylinder 7 electrical issue code.

Googled it, seemed almost 100% that it was a bad connector to the injector. GM has a bulletin out for it. He brought it to one local shop, they wouldn’t touch it so he brought it to a place that just does diesels and they said he’s around the 25th L5P they have done this electrical connector issue on. I live in a state that isn’t very populated and it was done by a shop that is a local mom and pop so 25 seems like a significant issue.

As much as I am not a ram person, I have had friends with CP4 issues on the ford platform and now 1 friend with L5P issues. He’s also 1 of 2 friends in a L5P. I’d say I have the most friends in the ram 6.7 then ford 6.7 and only 2 in an L5P.

No real issues with my ram friends, they all have CP3 rams. I hope they don’t have the grid heater bolt take out a cylinder.
My brother did his grid heater check right before coming off warranty and it was about to fall out. Had about two threads left to go before it fell into the intake. Glad he caught it. I have a friend on Facebook that just yesterday had his grid heater bolt fall out and made it into cylinder #6. He’s looking for someone to pull the head off for him so he can see how bad it is.

There are guys on this board that like to make fun of fords for having cabs lifted and cp4 failures. Ford might have been the first to build a truck you have to pick the cab up to work on but GM pioneered the CP4 failure.

IMG_3720.jpeg
 
No real issues with my ram friends, they all have CP3 rams. I hope they don’t have the grid heater bolt take out a cylinder.

i have heard about this and i worry about mine sometimes, though i dont use the grid heater often at all.

My brother did his grid heater check right before coming off warranty and it was about to fall out. Had about two threads left to go before it fell into the intake. Glad he caught it. I have a friend on Facebook that just yesterday had his grid heater bolt fall out and made it into cylinder #6. He’s looking for someone to pull the head off for him so he can see how bad it is.

There are guys on this board that like to make fun of fords for having cabs lifted and cp4 failures. Ford might have been the first to build a truck you have to pick the cab up to work on but GM pioneered the CP4 failure.

:laughing:

that bolt is worrisome. Banks makes a replacement intake that deletes that heater and that problem. i have thought about doing it about a year ago, and now i may just go ahead and make it happen. 213,000 miles.

what were the symtoms when your friend's let go? any warning?
 
i have heard about this and i worry about mine sometimes, though i dont use the grid heater often at all.



:laughing:

that bolt is worrisome. Banks makes a replacement intake that deletes that heater and that problem. i have thought about doing it about a year ago, and now i may just go ahead and make it happen. 213,000 miles.

what were the symtoms when your friend's let go? any warning?
No warning. Started knocking out of nowhere. So he did a google and found the warnings to check the grid heater. So he pulled it and sure enough the dreaded bolt is MIA. Is yours in the year range? It’s only a select few years isn’t it? My brothers is a 17. Do you do facebook? I can give you the link to his post about the one from yesterday

Edit: where we live you still need the grid heater in the winter. Brother didn’t delete his, he just fixed it.
 
No warning. Started knocking out of nowhere. So he did a google and found the warnings to check the grid heater. So he pulled it and sure enough the dreaded bolt is MIA. Is yours in the year range? It’s only a select few years isn’t it? My brothers is a 17. Do you do facebook? I can give you the link to his post about the one from yesterday

Edit: where we live you still need the grid heater in the winter. Brother didn’t delete his, he just fixed it.

mine is a '17. the Banks intake manifold kit deletes the old grid heater and uses a single coil so the wait to start still works. its a heater upgrade. i still use mine from time to time. not as often as yall do but when it gets cold id like to have it. really dont think its NEEDED, but will help keep unnecessary wear from cold starts.
 
but will help keep unnecessary wear from cold starts.
With how good modern engines and synthetic oils are I think "wear on cold starts" is like 3% of why the heater exists and the other 97% is "to get up to operating temp ASAP for best emissions" but the OEM just lies to the public and pretends that 97% doesn't exist because that's just easier and better for them.
 
Surely it's fixable? The bolt falling out I mean.
Also surely it will start in 50% of America without the heater?
 
Surely it's fixable? The bolt falling out I mean.
Also surely it will start in 100% of America without the heater so long as the compression isn't totally fucked and you're willing to hold the key in start for more than 1/2 sec.
Fixed.
 
No. But once again you think you know. How many turbo diesel’s have you gone through? The number I believe is higher even than 50%. But it ain’t 💯
Fine then. 99.9. I think anyone who's doing Nate of the North shit where a new truck not starting when cold is actually possible is gonna have a can of ether in the cupholder whether the truck has a grid heater or not. It's a solution in search of a problem when it comes to starting. I think it's mostly there to shave seconds off that long-ass diesel warm up time.
 
With how good modern engines and synthetic oils are I think "wear on cold starts" is like 3% of why the heater exists and the other 97% is "to get up to operating temp ASAP for best emissions" but the OEM just lies to the public and pretends that 97% doesn't exist because that's just easier and better for them.
Nope.

Disconnect the glow plugs on a Sprinter and try to start it below 40. 50/50 if it will starts, and 100/0 that if it starts it will run like ass for a few minutes, stalling if you add more cold fuel than idle.
 
Fine then. 99.9. I think anyone who's doing Nate of the North shit where a new truck not starting when cold is actually possible is gonna have a can of ether in the cupholder whether the truck has a grid heater or not. It's a solution in search of a problem when it comes to starting. I think it's mostly there to shave seconds off that long-ass diesel warm up time.
Again. No. But I also don’t expect you to be the authority on the matter either. It gets as cold or colder at times in middle USA than it does in Alaska. I thought it got brutal cold where you are but maybe not as cold as I thought you get. It’s comical to start TD’s certain times of the year WITH glow plugs and grid heaters that work right. Pickups, heavy equipment, generators, etc. I’m not talking one off situations either. I’m talking about everyone I know fighting the same issues at the same time on the same day.
 
mine is a '17. the Banks intake manifold kit deletes the old grid heater and uses a single coil so the wait to start still works. its a heater upgrade. i still use mine from time to time. not as often as yall do but when it gets cold id like to have it. really dont think its NEEDED, but will help keep unnecessary wear from cold starts.
The little heater Banks uses is a massive downgrade compared to the grid heater as far as heat output.
Probably a none issue in the south, but it's caused trouble here.
 
Nope.

Disconnect the glow plugs on a Sprinter and try to start it below 40. 50/50 if it will starts, and 100/0 that if it starts it will run like ass for a few minutes, stalling if you add more cold fuel than idle.
I'm used to garbage old skid steers and compact tractors and what not that need a little snort of ether when it's 10-0 out at 6am but are fine the rest of the time.

Is it a "modern diesel designed specifically for a turbo" thing? I just figured there's no way modern shit could be worse than old shit when it comes to cold starting.
 
Nope.

Disconnect the glow plugs on a Sprinter and try to start it below 40. 50/50 if it will starts, and 100/0 that if it starts it will run like ass for a few minutes, stalling if you add more cold fuel than idle.
I've always thought it was weird how some diesels don't need glow plugs or a grid heater and start without fuss while others act like it's -50 when it's barely under 70
 
The '24 Ford 6.7 has a 15.2:1 static compression ratio.
While a 2003 7.3 had 17.5:1 ratio
 
2020 ram/cummins are reported as this

16.2:1 on the HO and 19:1 on the SO
 
I'm used to garbage old skid steers and compact tractors and what not that need a little snort of ether when it's 10-0 out at 6am but are fine the rest of the time.

Is it a "modern diesel designed specifically for a turbo" thing? I just figured there's no way modern shit could be worse than old shit when it comes to cold starting.
Nobody better be using either on new TD’s. With a functional grid heater or glow plugs, or just plugging in the block heater makes them start right up. I’ve seen connecting rods turned into U’s because of either. Fuck that shit, it’s not a good substitute for good OE equipment.
 
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