Don't over think it.
Ranger with 2.9 or 4.0ohv, preferably 4.0.
86-88 could be 2.9, 1st gen. 2.9 in this era known for HG problems and cracked heads.
89-92 is 2nd gen, 2.9 available all years, 4.0 available 90+ 2.9 issues were resolved by 91, 4.0 is good in this era.
93-97 is 3rd gen, 4.0 ohv all years, avoid the 3.0. Frame changed to have the front crumple zone in 93. Pre93 has no crumple zone. 95+ is the interior change, 93-94 has same interior as 89-92. 95 is also first year OBDII diagnostic. 95+ has a vehicle speed sensor in the transfer case output, something worth knowing if swapping to a Dana 300.
For manual transmissions, 2.9 Rangers 88+ got the Mitsubishi FM-146 trans, all 4.0 got the Mazda M5OD-R1 transmission, (not to be confused with the -R2 fullsize trans, which shares no parts) The M5OD-R2 is a much better trans, and can be swapped in place of the earlier transmission. I had good luck with the FM-146 in my 91 FWIW.
If you wind up with disc brakes in the back, 95-01 Explorer master cylinder bolts to the brake booster and has the correct proportioning for rear disc.
Plan to upgrade the powersteering pump to a saginaw pump, no matter the year/engine. Its been documented, maybe PSC has a off the shelf option?
Putting a Sterling in the back is as easy as moving perches and shock tabs. Gas tank skid plate clearance can get tight to the driveshaft. Extended cab trucks came with 2 piece driveshafts, single cabs had 1 piece ones, you're changing all that anyways so moot point. If the doubler interferes with the gas tank, BroncoII gas tank fits the back of the frame behind the axle and sending unit jives with the Ranger stuff like gas gauge ect.
Chevy 63" spring swap is well documented, personally I didn't hate swapping to explorer leaf springs for a little lift, and extended shackles.
Front can be as easy or hard as you want to make it, depending on goals. Long radius arms with good joints will surprise you how much flex you can achieve. Common coil springs when SAS are 70s full size stuff. Bronco Graveyard regular or Superflex ones are a good choice.
My NP208 is completely tucked within the frame rail, D300 should be even easier to do so.
Can't think of much else of value to add
Ranger with 2.9 or 4.0ohv, preferably 4.0.
86-88 could be 2.9, 1st gen. 2.9 in this era known for HG problems and cracked heads.
89-92 is 2nd gen, 2.9 available all years, 4.0 available 90+ 2.9 issues were resolved by 91, 4.0 is good in this era.
93-97 is 3rd gen, 4.0 ohv all years, avoid the 3.0. Frame changed to have the front crumple zone in 93. Pre93 has no crumple zone. 95+ is the interior change, 93-94 has same interior as 89-92. 95 is also first year OBDII diagnostic. 95+ has a vehicle speed sensor in the transfer case output, something worth knowing if swapping to a Dana 300.
For manual transmissions, 2.9 Rangers 88+ got the Mitsubishi FM-146 trans, all 4.0 got the Mazda M5OD-R1 transmission, (not to be confused with the -R2 fullsize trans, which shares no parts) The M5OD-R2 is a much better trans, and can be swapped in place of the earlier transmission. I had good luck with the FM-146 in my 91 FWIW.
If you wind up with disc brakes in the back, 95-01 Explorer master cylinder bolts to the brake booster and has the correct proportioning for rear disc.
Plan to upgrade the powersteering pump to a saginaw pump, no matter the year/engine. Its been documented, maybe PSC has a off the shelf option?
Putting a Sterling in the back is as easy as moving perches and shock tabs. Gas tank skid plate clearance can get tight to the driveshaft. Extended cab trucks came with 2 piece driveshafts, single cabs had 1 piece ones, you're changing all that anyways so moot point. If the doubler interferes with the gas tank, BroncoII gas tank fits the back of the frame behind the axle and sending unit jives with the Ranger stuff like gas gauge ect.
Chevy 63" spring swap is well documented, personally I didn't hate swapping to explorer leaf springs for a little lift, and extended shackles.
Front can be as easy or hard as you want to make it, depending on goals. Long radius arms with good joints will surprise you how much flex you can achieve. Common coil springs when SAS are 70s full size stuff. Bronco Graveyard regular or Superflex ones are a good choice.
My NP208 is completely tucked within the frame rail, D300 should be even easier to do so.
Can't think of much else of value to add