1992 Rebuild

Bodj Built

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 21, 2024
Member Number
8239
Messages
54
Been lurking on here for a while but never made a thread.

Some background: My first truck in highschool was a 1995 pickup 2wd 22re. I always wanted to SAS it, but lacked the know how/fabrication skills. ended up learning about prerunners and got heavily into that area.

1731608823147.jpeg


Overall it was a very basic build, but it was my headstart into offroad fabrication. Since then I've had another 5th gen pickup (1989 regular cab 4x4, 22re, mostly stock), built a 2000 Tundra into a pretty capable prerunner, and most recently built my main toy - 2002 GMC Sonoma Crewcab, D35 TTB swap from an Explorer frame graft, D44 Bronco knuckles/hubs, backhalf, 4 link, full floater 9", caged front to rear, 6.0L LQ4/4L80e. All built by me in the driveway.

1731609164842.png





Anyways, this thread is about the new project - a 1992 Extended Cab with the 3vze (boooo). The good news is that it has a Marlin Crawler double transfer case, 3 linked GM D44 front axle with 2.5" Kings, CTM U joints with chromoly shafts, I believe 4.56 gears front and rear, ARB air lockers front and rear, Warn 8000 winch, Marlin Crawler leaf springs and Bilsteins in the rear, extra 4.10 third members, spare axle shafts, half doors, and I got it all for a song. Some other bits are the bed that has been dovetailed, a stainless hot water tank w/ pump mounted under the bed (for camp showers), and bed cover thing with canvas top.

The truck hasn't left his sideyard in about 15 years, although he did start it up every few months, until about 10 months ago when it wouldn't start - he blamed the fuel pump.

Some friends helped tow it home (ignore the tie down job, it was only 3 miles of city streets) and get it up our driveway.

1731610930138.jpeg


1731610996469.jpeg


1731611011521.jpeg


Got it running (enough) with draining the gas, and new fuel pump and filter, plugs, wires, cap and rotor. It would start every time, but stumbled hard when revving. Made it up the street and back into the driveway

1731611171374.jpeg




I was spraying carb cleaner to check for air leaks, to no avail. The CEL was blinking 41, so I replaced the throttle body with a spare that was included (rather than checking the TPS). Still didn't fix it, and still had the code.

More in the next post
 
Last edited:
Brought my dad over who was a Chrysler tech while I was growing up. He brought his timing light and found it was 30* advanced and there was no more room on the distributor to adjust, so we pulled the plastic cover to verify timing marks on the gears were done correctly, which they were. The distributor was a gear off, so got that adjusted and found it wouldn't start at all unless sprayed with ether in the intake. Checked fuel again and it was disgusting. Turns out the tank was rusted through, and my new fuel pump was coated with some sort of mineral deposits. I replaced the tank with a new one last night, cleaned off the fuel pump, new fuel filter, and fresh gas. Now it will start without ether, but immediately dies. Giving it throttle doesn't keep it running, only revs it high for the brief second it is on, and then it dies. I believe the cold start injector is giving it fuel to start, but for some reason it is not continuing to get fuel. The CEL no longer blinks 41, but blinks rapidly, which I believe indicates there are no codes.

A friend recommended I replace the MAF, as that gives signal that the engine is running and to continue fueling. What are your thoughts on all of this? I know these behave weird when coolant is low, and I have it drained right now since the plastic cover is off. I don't think this would cause it to not stay running, though?

Thoughts? I'd like to get it running so I can redo some of the fab work and get to wheeling.
 
Had my wife crank it over last night and I opened the MAF door with my hand and it stayed running, so looks like bad MAF. Ordered a new one and it should be in at some point tomorrow.

ummmmm no help on the yota, but I want more deets on the the TTB S10:smokin::smokin::smokin:

Cage before starting any suspension work
1731693162537.jpeg


Remove OEM front frame section + suspension

1731693220644.jpeg


Slide in TTB frame front section from 1993 Ford Explorer
1731693263043.jpeg


Weld together, add 1/4" plate overlay, and then 1/8" overlay on top of that

1731693316499.jpeg


Cut, extend 4.5" per side, add caster (Frame graft was lowered about 2" from stock frame rails, giving me lift without having to adjust camber, still 8+" of up travel from ride height, and no interfering with my AC box
1731693549459.jpeg


Mas plating
1731693591594.jpeg


Combine explorer inner section to bronco outer section, increasing length 4.5" as well
1731693637366.jpeg


Build lower links
1731693695691.jpeg


1731693714966.jpeg
 
....
Backhalf with 2x4x.250 rect tubing for mas weight bias
1731693815585.jpeg


Schreiner 31 spline 9" full floater, 4.56 gears (I drive it to the desert. 5.29s before were fun, but my mpg made it difficult funding trips), spool, tabzone truss, my own bracketry/link mounts, GM metric calipers

1731693901715.jpeg



Pulled LQ4/4L80e out of a chevy 2500, refreshed with oil/water pumps, lifters, knock sensor delete...
1731694092541.jpeg


Bigger dual pass radiator, added steam port, ditched trans and engine oil coolers in radiator. Added two aux trans coolers and one engine oil cooler. I never see the trans over 180*
1731694218131.jpeg


3" stainless exhaust from manifolds back. No room for headers, unfortunately. I'll eventually redo the crossover tube to be under the bell housing and smoothen out the sound. It sounds like an old school SBC right now.
1731694289787.jpeg



Plenty of torque to pull the pop up camper to the desert, or RTT for point to point trips like Mojave Rd., Mammoth, etc. No bypasses so relatively quiet and comfortable. I need a small AC condenser now and get some lines made, then I can have working AC again.

(we renovated the pop up and I lifted it like 8" and added nissan altima shocks lol). Tows freaking awesome.
1731694499057.jpeg
 
Got the new MAF installed and it's back to idling, but very rough again. Going to double check vacuum hoses, but at this point I think it's the injectors so I'll order a set and get the put on early next week.
 
Got the new MAF installed and it's back to idling, but very rough again. Going to double check vacuum hoses, but at this point I think it's the injectors so I'll order a set and get the put on early next week.
I recommend RC Fuel injection; they're out of Torrance but you can just mail them in. Get your factory Denso ones rebuilt if possible. Super fast turn around, and they'll give you the before and after bench printout. These injectors are very straightforward to bring back to life.
 
I recommend RC Fuel injection; they're out of Torrance but you can just mail them in. Get your factory Denso ones rebuilt if possible. Super fast turn around, and they'll give you the before and after bench printout. These injectors are very straightforward to bring back to life.

That is pretty close, but I have already ordered this kit. Should be here Monday or Tuesday.

 
I was screwing with it on Wednesday, figured I'd try an Italian tuneup... I was revving the piss out of it while rotating the distributor to see where it liked to be at, when suddenly it started missing REALLY badly lol. New injectors showed up yesterday, so I'll try getting those on tomorrow morning.
 
Got the new injectors in this morning and didn’t make a difference. Still runs the same. Gonna swap out the ignition coil with a spare that the truck came with, and then pull all plugs again to see if porcelain cracked or something weird. I’m pretty frustrated with this stupid thing. At least it should run great once it’s sorted!

C0CD713E-D211-48B2-A635-6DCA34E22BF9.jpeg

095C2077-7209-4D59-82C6-55A8FF8A7F0A.jpeg



E0FBB239-8E02-40BB-B5DF-8275773995A0.jpeg


Screw 1990s Toyota and their love of vacuum
AC9B3145-3018-4ACC-B3DD-CAD07E8F3976.jpeg
 
I recommend RC Fuel injection; they're out of Torrance but you can just mail them in. Get your factory Denso ones rebuilt if possible. Super fast turn around, and they'll give you the before and after bench printout. These injectors are very straightforward to bring back to life.
I second this, I've sent probably 5 sets of Toyota injectors to them. :smokin:

EDIT too late
 
Did the previous owner say it ran fine?

Hows the throttle body look. these motors tend to have blow by, I added a catch can to my 5vz-fe and my 1fe.

How does the EGR system look.

I'm just throwing out things you have not mentioned yet.

I've had good luck troubleshooting the next gen motor 5Vz.
 
Yes he said he was confident it would run fine and pass smog with a new fuel pump, and that’s not what I’m finding hah.

I haven’t sorted through the lines 1 by 1 yet, but so far all vacuum lines appear to be leak free. I’ll be able to look over it all again tomorrow with my dad’s help so one of us can crank and one can look
 
Welp, cylinder 1 has no compression. Looking like I’m gonna do heads on it rather than 3.4 swap as those things might as well be made of gold and money is tight right now. Pretty bummed
 
And so it begins… probably going to order new heads from Rockauto so I can reinstall as soon as I remove these.

91CEC7C4-34CA-48B8-873D-0B0B9EB849F8.jpeg
5E427FD0-6461-4B73-8E05-8C1C85F139EB.jpeg


It’s resting at full bump, which makes it nice removing things lol.
 
I've done 3 sets of headgaskets on 3.0s. Never had machine work done, just added 15lbs of torque over recommended to the head bolts and got after it:laughing:. Snip the timing dust shield in half, piss on removing the timing belt pulleys. All 3 of those motors lasted until they either bent rods or the truck got thrown away.
Hah heck yeah. I don't think the head gasket went out. I think I burnt a valve.
 
Just bought a used set of headers so I’ll be able to ditch the oem garbage
 
Downey or NWOR? Had a couple sets of downey headers... really helped wake the 3.0 up in the upper RPM's...
Not sure, I haven't really looked them over. I mainly want to fix the overheating HG issue
 
Not sure, I haven't really looked them over. I mainly want to fix the overheating HG issue

Downey are 3 into 1 and slip joint . NWOR are tri-Y and ball joint. And I think NWOR were stainless.
 
Last edited:
Top Back Refresh