YotaAtieToo
Thick skull
Surprised it actually worked even a little 
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1988 Samurai Turned Buggy
- Thread starter FleshEater
- Start date
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- Tags
- suzuki
FleshEater
Ordinary Average Guy
Surprised it actually worked even a little
My first impression was, Wow, this clutch is in good shape considering it was an offroad vehicle. Pretty sure the springs and rivets were all that were turning the tires.
FleshEater
Ordinary Average Guy
Byro
Lurkin’
Glad I could help man. 
Let me know when you’re ready for wheels and tires.
Let me know when you’re ready for wheels and tires.
YotaAtieToo
Thick skull
Don't tell me you actually bought a limited slip? Or is that just the box?
FleshEater
Ordinary Average Guy
It’s a Grizzly Locker. The box has a bunch of different stuff on it. Zip Locker, Yukon, etc.
FleshEater
Ordinary Average Guy
Axle housing from Wuz-A-zuk got a redneck paint job in the redneck paint booth yesterday.
Also grabbed this set of Icon race and seal driver kit that’s awesome for working on these diffs. Not bad for HF.
Grizzly and pinion gear are in the freezer. Hoping these bearings slip on better than the last gear set I did.
Also grabbed this set of Icon race and seal driver kit that’s awesome for working on these diffs. Not bad for HF.
Grizzly and pinion gear are in the freezer. Hoping these bearings slip on better than the last gear set I did.
Byro
Lurkin’
Nice.
FleshEater
Ordinary Average Guy
These are the last fucking gears I’ll ever set up. This isn’t a job for me. Felt like 
trying to navigate this one. I’ll pay ECGS next time. Fawk.
Pattern kind of looks high to me in reverse. Looks okay going forward. Thoughts?
Byro this look “okay” to run?
Also noticed there’s a spot close to the top wearing down more paint than normal. I’m using a drill to run these patterns. Tried to get a pic of what I’m talking about.
This isn’t a job for me. Felt like trying to navigate this one. I’ll pay ECGS next time. Fawk.Pattern kind of looks high to me in reverse. Looks okay going forward. Thoughts?
Byro this look “okay” to run?
Also noticed there’s a spot close to the top wearing down more paint than normal. I’m using a drill to run these patterns. Tried to get a pic of what I’m talking about.
Last edited:
FleshEater
Ordinary Average Guy
Looking at this pattern more, I think my pinion depth is fine, but the ring gear needs to move closer to the pinion. Reading online it’s better to have the pattern closer to the toe than the heel.
FleshEater
Ordinary Average Guy
Finally done with these 3rds.
Setting up gears is definitely one of those things that would be easier the more you do it. Being my second time I felt like a special ed kid navigating his way around a tit the first time.
Final pattern:
Ready to drop in.
Plan is to truss the front housing, rebuild it, and then disc brake swap the rear and assemble.
Setting up gears is definitely one of those things that would be easier the more you do it. Being my second time I felt like a special ed kid navigating his way around a tit the first time.
Final pattern:
Ready to drop in.
Plan is to truss the front housing, rebuild it, and then disc brake swap the rear and assemble.
YotaAtieToo
Thick skull
Finally done with these 3rds.
Setting up gears is definitely one of those things that would be easier the more you do it. Being my second time I felt like a special ed kid navigating his way around a tit the first time.
Final pattern:
Ready to drop in.
Plan is to truss the front housing, rebuild it, and then disc brake swap the rear and assemble.
I've always let someone who knows what they're doing do my gears, seems dumb not to learn asany differentprojects i got going, but I don't have the patience for it
What's your plan for the rear disc's? I'd recommend NOT using front toyota calipers. But zuk calipers might be a good fit.
FleshEater
Ordinary Average Guy
I've always let someone who knows what they're doing do my gears, seems dumb not to learn asany differentprojects i got going, but I don't have the patience for it
What's your plan for the rear disc's? I'd recommend NOT using front toyota calipers. But zuk calipers might be a good fit.
Well, I was going to grab the Trail Tough set up using front Toyotas.
YotaAtieToo
Thick skull
Well, I was going to grab the Trail Tough set up using front Toyotas.
Lots of guys report issues with them.
The trail gear kit worked fine on my last rig.
Or factory Isuzu rear rotors and calipers are a good swap. Even an ebrake option there.
Byro
Lurkin’
I've always let someone who knows what they're doing do my gears, seems dumb not to learn asany differentprojects i got going, but I don't have the patience for it
What's your plan for the rear disc's? I'd recommend NOT using front toyota calipers. But zuk calipers might be a good fit.
I was coaching him along via text.
YotaAtieToo
Thick skull
FleshEater
Ordinary Average Guy
FleshEater
Ordinary Average Guy
I've been on both sides of that, always a fun time
I prefer the side of helping via text and laughing at the struggles. Struggling and second guessing yourself is never fun.
skyhiranger
Well-known member
Ya, that's the flywheel tooth looker hole
No idea what it's for, but they all have it.
Another way to check timing.
FleshEater
Ordinary Average Guy
Trying to clean up the garage and get stuff done. So I test fit the WFO truss I got for the front axle. Fits okay, but has quite the gap to fill over the diff housing.
(Plastic Irwin clamps are not used for my welding
)
(Plastic Irwin clamps are not used for my welding
)
YotaAtieToo
Thick skull
You gotta think that these housings are all 40 years old now, plus there may be some slightly different versions out there. I know there was 3 different bottom trusses 79, 80-83 and 84-85 iirc.
Just take some time and tr or sand where it's touching until it's pretty tight everywhere.
Also make sure to gusset the knuckle balls or they'll just fold up with the housing being that rigid.
Just take some time and tr or sand where it's touching until it's pretty tight everywhere.
Also make sure to gusset the knuckle balls or they'll just fold up with the housing being that rigid.
Byro
Lurkin’
Dude. I completely forgot about your notch chunks. Shoot me a text tomorrow and I’ll make sure I whip some up for ya.
FleshEater
Ordinary Average Guy
No problem man, I’ve been in South Dakota anyways.
Yeah, I’ll mess with it and get it to sit tighter to the housing.
FleshEater
Ordinary Average Guy
Any thoughts on what I should install in the diff breather before welding up this truss?
Byro
Lurkin’
Weld it shut. 1/8”npt tap and you can relocate it wherever.
YotaAtieToo
Thick skull
Ya, easy to move.
It's in a decent spot as is, but I could see maybe wanting it lower if you're trying to really cram the dif close to the frame and engine
It's in a decent spot as is, but I could see maybe wanting it lower if you're trying to really cram the dif close to the frame and engine
FleshEater
Ordinary Average Guy
Finally done welding this truss on. Don’t mind my shiddy weldz.
Next up is get the knuckle gussets ordered and welded up. Ruff Stuff looks like the best to use with this truss.
Next up is get the knuckle gussets ordered and welded up. Ruff Stuff looks like the best to use with this truss.
FleshEater
Ordinary Average Guy
This weekend I was wasting time watching a fire burn out and looking over this Samurai. This is the second time I’ve had this feeling, and that’s that I’m just starting from scratch on this.
The body is gone. Unsalvageable due to rot, the frame is fine, but my thought is why not just build out my own full chassis from tube.
Wuz-A-zuk has told me many times and I’ve heard it here that the Samurai frame can’t withstand much, and I’ll be trying to keep it from ripping itself apart.
The time it would take to reinforce the frame and repair all the rot I could cobble together a chassis.
That’s where I’m at with this. If this ever gets done.
The body is gone. Unsalvageable due to rot, the frame is fine, but my thought is why not just build out my own full chassis from tube.
Wuz-A-zuk has told me many times and I’ve heard it here that the Samurai frame can’t withstand much, and I’ll be trying to keep it from ripping itself apart.
The time it would take to reinforce the frame and repair all the rot I could cobble together a chassis.
That’s where I’m at with this. If this ever gets done.
Byro
Lurkin’
3x2 rectangle. Easiest way to do it. Then you have a nice flat and square surface to add stuff to.