FleshEater
Ordinary Average Guy
So your springs are frame rail width? My current stock Sami springs are outboarded. I was going to do the same with the Toyota axles as I assumed wider would be better. Is this not the case?
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1988 Samurai Turned Buggy
- Thread starter FleshEater
- Start date
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- suzuki
So your springs are frame rail width? My current stock Sami springs are outboarded. I was going to do the same with the Toyota axles as I assumed wider would be better. Is this not the case?
skyhiranger
Well-known member
Yeah, I narrowed the spacing on the front springs. The rear springs are still the same spacing as they always were, just moved the hangers up above the bottom of the frame rail. The front spring hangers hanging down never was that big of a deal on getting hung up on stuff, but figured since I was modding the rear, I might as well do the front as well. Plus, with the offset of the wheels I was running, occasionally the tires would get into the springs when turning hard, since I had modified my steering so it would turn sharper than stock by running a longer pitman arm and changing the bolts on the front knuckle that act as stops to flat head bolts.
For what I assume you are probably going to use your samurai for, there really isn't a need to do all that steering work and narrowing of the front spring spacing. One reason I did mine is because I was running local amateur comps.
If you are going to use it where there are a lot of bigger rocks and ledges, raising the rear spring hangers is definitely worth it.
FleshEater
Ordinary Average Guy
I plan on raising the front and the rear hangers as much as I can.
Do you have pics of this rig? Specifics on the front frame work would be awesome.
skyhiranger
Well-known member
Here are the pics for the raised rear spring mount. Stock rear hanger that was cut off the frame. Stock rear hanger trimmed down. Stock rear hanger where it got welded to the original cross brace. The YJ relocation plates bolted to the relocated stock hanger. Reinforcement braces.
The last 2 pics are before and after pics.
Attachments
DannyK
Well-known member
Do you have pictures of this? That was one of the main things that bothered me about my old Samurai with YJ leafs SPUA. The frame side hangers would hit and hang up easily on rocks.
skyhiranger
Well-known member
skyhiranger
Well-known member
See my post above yours.
YotaAtieToo
Thick skull
Moving them in on a Toyota axle is basically impossible. Other than that, this is what I plan to do with mine eventually. Although I may move the front shackle hangers up even more and go spoa.
FleshEater
Ordinary Average Guy
The more I precisely think about this the more it’s all coming together. Lots of options. Narrowing down a concrete path is harder.
skyhiranger
Well-known member
Moving the springs in isn't required. It just made it easier to simply weld a plate to the outside of the frame for a new hanger, instead of having to space it out or make an offset hanger. The front spring hangers isn't what usually hung me up, it was the rear hangers.
YotaAtieToo
Thick skull
I agree, although I think the front shackles are just as obnoxious as the rear hangers.
skyhiranger
Well-known member
Definitely lots of options. Ask 10 people, you'll likely get 10 different answers on what is best. I've been wheeling this rig since 2007ish and it does awesome for what it is. I started out with simply RUF springs and stock samurai rear springs. As my wheeling skills improved I made changes to make the samurai more capable.
skyhiranger
Well-known member
Depending on the ledge, I either have to find a nook to stick the shackles in so they don't hit or hit the ledge at an angle so the tire hits before the shackle does. Since I moved the shackle mount up, that helped with overall clearance.
I thought about at one time about linking the front. But since I knew basically nothing about setting up links, I took an alternate route.
My rear spring hangers are getting trashed so I've been thinking of raising my mounts as well. I was either going to build a little ramp from the frame to the hanger, but I may as well go ahead and move the hanger all together. Then I can run springs with more arch or go SOA without much additional lift, and also get rid of the rock anchor hangers. Also thinking sliders in the front instead of the shackle. Many ways to skin this cat.
DannyK
Well-known member
Awesome!!! I really wish I had done that with mine! I was running 34" LTB's too with heavy cutting of the fenders and tub.See my post above yours.
FleshEater
Ordinary Average Guy
This morning I said screw it and ordered the following:
Ninja Gear Ring and Pinion Gear Set
Solid Pinion Spacer
Pinion Seal
2 ea. Outer Bearing Rebuild Kits for the Rear Axles
I hope I got everything to start rebuilding the rear axle. I was talking to Yotaatietoo and thought I would buy a Spartan, but for $350 I’ll just weld the rear. Prices are insane anymore. I remember lunchbox lockers used to be like $150.
Ninja Gear Ring and Pinion Gear Set
Solid Pinion Spacer
Pinion Seal
2 ea. Outer Bearing Rebuild Kits for the Rear Axles
I hope I got everything to start rebuilding the rear axle. I was talking to Yotaatietoo and thought I would buy a Spartan, but for $350 I’ll just weld the rear. Prices are insane anymore. I remember lunchbox lockers used to be like $150.
skyhiranger
Well-known member
If you are not aware, trackick front gears/thirds fit samurai axles. Depending on the year of trackick third you get (89-95 or 96-98), they are direct drop ins into samurai front or rear axle housings. The trackick thirds are aluminum and the carriers are single pin, instead of 3 pin, but they seem to hold up decently well, unless you just bash the shit out of the rocks with them and/or drive like an idiot.
I have never had to replace outer bearings in a samurai rear axle. I've replaced a few seals. But I guess replacing the bearings won't hurt anything. I've maybe replaced a pinion seal before. But unless it is leaking, not really necessary, IMO.
Welding or spooling the rear definitely makes it drive different than a locker, but it works and is a cheaper way to get the added traction. You'll be surprised where it will go in 2wd with the rear end locked.
A 5 second google search returned this...a spartan for the rear of a samurai on amazon for $200.
FleshEater
Ordinary Average Guy
I’m building Toyota axles for this.
skyhiranger
Well-known member
I forgot about that.
YotaAtieToo
Thick skull
May as well just go grizzly for the front for a little more.
FleshEater
Ordinary Average Guy
Yeah, at $350 a lunchbox no longer seems like a budget friendly option.
YotaAtieToo
Thick skull
Ya, unless you're just looking at the wrong place
FleshEater
Ordinary Average Guy
My Marlin Crawler order came in this week. I really like the Ninja Gears (Yukon), but everything was a fight. Seems it’s all built to max tolerances. Solid, awesome product, just had to fight it all.
This is my first pattern. It was freezing in the shop and I put the first compound on too heavy. Second set is less and only 10 rotations.
How does it look? This is my first time.
First compound:
Second:
Here’s the ghost pattern:
I feel like my pinion could maybe get moved in a slight bit.
This is my first pattern. It was freezing in the shop and I put the first compound on too heavy. Second set is less and only 10 rotations.
How does it look? This is my first time.
First compound:
Second:
Here’s the ghost pattern:
I feel like my pinion could maybe get moved in a slight bit.
Last edited:
YotaAtieToo
Thick skull
FleshEater
Ordinary Average Guy
I set the pinion depth deeper today and re-set the ring gear as tight as I could while maintaining backlash.
I like the coast pattern:
I’m not too sure about the drive pattern:
Here’s the ghost drive pattern:
I’m reading a lot on Yukon’s page. It says not to worry about centering the marks between the heel and the toe. But they didn’t have much for the drive pattern, which I believe is when it’s in reverse. Coast is going forward, correct?
I like the coast pattern:
I’m not too sure about the drive pattern:
Here’s the ghost drive pattern:
I’m reading a lot on Yukon’s page. It says not to worry about centering the marks between the heel and the toe. But they didn’t have much for the drive pattern, which I believe is when it’s in reverse. Coast is going forward, correct?
Last edited:
FleshEater
Ordinary Average Guy
I forgot to update this.
Byro helped me out via text and sent me a really handy attachment for deciphering what needs to happen depending on gear pattern.
Final pattern turned out pretty good.
Also, with the cost of everything being so retarded anymore, this build is going to take a long time. I’ve also realized that I should just make the most out of this, kind of a buy once, cry once situation.
The cost of leaf springs is a lot more expensive now than I imagined, and also add other issues to the equation. So I’m just going to pace this slowly, and link it.
Byro helped me out via text and sent me a really handy attachment for deciphering what needs to happen depending on gear pattern.
Final pattern turned out pretty good.
Also, with the cost of everything being so retarded anymore, this build is going to take a long time. I’ve also realized that I should just make the most out of this, kind of a buy once, cry once situation.
The cost of leaf springs is a lot more expensive now than I imagined, and also add other issues to the equation. So I’m just going to pace this slowly, and link it.
Byro
Lurkin’
“Introduction to gear set up, a virtual classroom.”
FleshEater
Ordinary Average Guy
Pulled the Sami up to the shop and started the tear down with my oldest kid helping.
Pretty much gutted.
I’ll have my oldest kid start pulling all the wires tomorrow while I work on pulling the engine, trans, and transfer case.
This thing is leaking from everywhere.
Pretty much gutted.
I’ll have my oldest kid start pulling all the wires tomorrow while I work on pulling the engine, trans, and transfer case.
This thing is leaking from everywhere.
YotaAtieToo
Thick skull
It's getting a 16v and auto?