What's new
By:
Filters
  • Check out our new Group Buy Program! We're kicking it off with Baja Designs! $10 Flat rate shipping no matter how much you order!

1979 f250 dana 44

Kpfitzy

Member
Joined
Dec 17, 2023
Member Number
7197
Messages
5
I’ve searched a shit ton and the answers are all over the place. The width wms-wms stock is right around 69”. When yawing f150 outers including the knuckles, what is the new wms-wms? Some say 65”, some say 67”. I’m looking for the guy that has done this in real life. Not keyboard warriors. It’s a question for the old school guys. I haven’t posted on pirate4x4 in over ten years. When searching I found this forum and joined. Let’s see how it goes. Thanx in advance.
 
Kpfitzy said:
I’ve searched a shit ton and the answers are all over the place. The width wms-wms stock is right around 69”. When yawing f150 outers including the knuckles, what is the new wms-wms? Some say 65”, some say 67”. I’m looking for the guy that has done this in real life. Not keyboard warriors. It’s a question for the old school guys. I haven’t posted on pirate4x4 in over ten years. When searching I found this forum and joined. Let’s see how it goes. Thanx in advance.
Click to expand...

It will only be about 1/2" wider than an F150 front axle. I can dig up the exact number if it's really that important to you.

The F250 outers are better in every way though, so you are going to be making a significant down grade to get that 5 on 5.5" pattern.

EDIT: A '78-79 F250 Dana 44 is .55" wider than a '73-'79 F150 Dana 44 with the same outers.
 
Last edited:
Which f250 outers though? There like 3 completely different setups.

Id take gm knuckles/brakes/small spindles/stubs with 5.5 hubs and discs anyday over dealing with the bs of fords constant design changes and goof fuck knuckles.
 
total newb said:
Which f250 outers though? There like 3 completely different setups.

Id take gm knuckles/brakes/small spindles/stubs with 5.5 hubs and discs anyday over dealing with the bs of fords constant design changes and goof fuck knuckles.
Click to expand...
The hole on the gm knuckles is too small for rcv’s to slide through. So that’s not the way for me.
 
'84 Bronco II said:
It will only be about 1/2" wider than an F150 front axle. I can dig up the exact number if it's really that important to you.

The F250 outers are better in every way though, so you are going to be making a significant down grade to get that 5 on 5.5" pattern.
Click to expand...
I’d be using all after market. Reid knuckles. Solid spindles. The width is important. Because I want to build a 9”to match.
 
total newb said:
Which f250 outers though? There like 3 completely different setups.
Click to expand...

What are you talking about? The '78-'79 F250 knuckles are the only open knuckles Ford ever used on a solid axle Dana 44 F250. They are flat top, have the highest factory steering arm location, and make a Dana 44 match the width of a full float Ford rear end very well.

EDIT: I am dumb, '76-'77 was open knuckle and ball joint too, but still low pinion so I was thinking they were still closed knuckle.

Kpfitzy said:
Because I want to build a 9”to match.
Click to expand...

I understand if you want to keep it narrow, but it is pretty easy to build a 9" at 69". I would rather make the 9" 8 lug anyway than make the Dana 44 5 lug. That way when you eventually swap a Dana 60 in anyway you won't have to waste more money converting it to 5 lug :flipoff2:
 
Last edited:
'84 Bronco II said:
What are you talking about? The '78-'79 F250 knuckles are the only open knuckles Ford ever used on a solid axle Dana 44 F250. They are flat top, have the highest factory steering arm location, and make a Dana 44 match the width of a full float Ford rear end very well.



I understand if you want to keep it narrow, but it is pretty easy to build a 9" at 69". I would rather make the 9" 8 lug anyway than make the Dana 44 5 lug. That way when you eventually swap a Dana 60 in anyway you won't have to waste more money converting it to 5 lug :flipoff2:
Click to expand...
So none of you actually know. I’ll do it and let you know.
 
Kpfitzy said:
I’d be using all after market. Reid knuckles. Solid spindles. The width is important. Because I want to build a 9”to match.
Click to expand...
So why not build the 44 first and then stick a tape measure on it?

If the 9" is gonna presumably be using full float hubs and 35spl side gears you're going to wind up ordering cut to fit chromo shafts so having the lengths be dead nuts on to make an OEM application work isn't going to be an issue.

Kpfitzy said:
So none of you actually know. I’ll do it and let you know.
Click to expand...
Nobody knows because +/-1" doesn't really matter that much and therefore nobody cares so nobody keeps track.
 
F250s have open knuckles from 76+.

The truck 9" is 65", but the van one is a little bit wider.
 
Isn’t the rear WMS to WMS a bit narrower then it’s matched front axle anyway? I’m not 100% on that just what I thought.

As far as differentials being used, it depends on op’s application really. I just bought a set of differentials from a late 70’s truck or bronco (seller didn’t know) a 9” rear and a wedge tube D44 front. I’m hacking the front up and retubing it and moving the turd to passenger side when it’s done. I want to keep the wheel bolt pattern to keep the wheels I have already. It’s going under a samurai with a 1.6 now and eventually a 2.0. No need to pursue a heavy ass D60 front or even a heavy tubed D44 8 lug differential for that matter. I like wheel speed and momentum and light weight helps there.

Also depends on how aggressive wheeler he is too.

I’d like to get new C’s and flat top knuckles for my D44 front build process but I want to reuse my hubs and splinted if possible.
 
arse_sidewards said:
So why not build the 44 first and then stick a tape measure on it?

If the 9" is gonna presumably be using full float hubs and 35spl side gears you're going to wind up ordering cut to fit chromo shafts so having the lengths be dead nuts on to make an OEM application work isn't going to be an issue.


Nobody knows because +/-1" doesn't really matter that much and therefore nobody cares so nobody keeps track.
Click to expand...
Somebody keeps track. In other words, you don’t know. I’ll figure it out.
 
Kpfitzy said:
Somebody keeps track. In other words, you don’t know. I’ll figure it out.
Click to expand...
Well you said you searched a "shit ton" and answers are all over the place. You don't know the answer, he don't have the answer you want. So you are in the same boat and you still don't have the answer you want.

I guess you will "figure it out".

Something that seems so gdamn specific to you....just gather your parts and put the front end together. If the rear 9" in stock form isnt the width of your dreams your gonna have to do something custom anyway. Get your parts for the front end and a tape measure:flipoff2:
 
Building a old school Dana 44 with the tiny u joints today is like taking home a super model just to not be able to get a hard on. All that work to be disappointed so quickly :flipoff2:
 
Anyone else feel like you shouldn't be a dick right out the gate?

I mean sure you can be a dick right out the gate but then you are just a dick. And not in a cool fun loving ha ha PBB dick way I mean an actual dick. When I say dick I really mean fucktard. 🤷

Oh yeah I don't have your answer either. Just padding my post count 👍
 
Skinny said:
Anyone else feel like you shouldn't be a dick right out the gate?

I mean sure you can be a dick right out the gate but then you are just a dick. And not in a cool fun loving ha ha PBB dick way I mean an actual dick. When I say dick I really mean fucktard. 🤷

Oh yeah I don't have your answer either. Just padding my post count 👍
Click to expand...
This. It took me literally a decade to refine my craft. :laughing::flipoff2:
 
Op: "Hey guys, spoon feed me this exact answer, because no one knows what they're talking about"

Irate: "man, it's been a long time and I've so much cooler shit with my life than mess with old useless D44s, but I'm 99% sure it's the measurement +/- 1/4"

Op: "so no one knows, guess I'll just have to go spend $12k on some axles that will be worth $2500 when I'm done to figure it out"

:flipoff2:
 
Trick95 said:
who the hell is paying 2500 for a 44 when you can get a whole superdooty donor for that?
Click to expand...

A pair of fully built, gears and locked axles are worth something to someone. Although the last old style D44 with rcvs and rieds I remember seeing for sale dropped to $800 before someone grabbed it :laughing:
 
Skinny said:
Anyone else feel like you shouldn't be a dick right out the gate?

I mean sure you can be a dick right out the gate but then you are just a dick. And not in a cool fun loving ha ha PBB dick way I mean an actual dick. When I say dick I really mean fucktard. 🤷

Oh yeah I don't have your answer either. Just padding my post count 👍
Click to expand...
Right, I had no desire to help, he comes off so cock sure there is no helping .
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top Back Refresh