1976 F100 street machine

[JKommuter]

I'll watch regardless of what you do, but I would love to see a Godzilla swap.

 

[rattle_snake]

Lowering the front end is pretty simple if not going too far. I pulled the radius arms out and replaced the bushings. I cut one coil off and set the truck back on the ground to check the drop, 1". I then cut another coil off, checked, 2". The spring is now too short to retain itself on the bottom, if using the stock length shock. I swapped one of the slightly larger washers from the radius arms to retail the lower coil. A shorter shock would be a better option, but I already bought new ones.

I measured the camber, it was -1.5* R and -2* L which isn't too bad. Four new shocks drastically improved ride.

 

[rattle_snake]

With truck louder and lower, back to adding the trans kickdown cable. The kickdown arm on the carb was mangled so I pulled the carb off to fix. Was able to bend it back into shape and fit the arm to the sleeve such that it didn't interfere with the throttle.

I made a bracket to attach the cable, and an adapter to not cut up the kickdown arm. The trans end was a shit show. Caked in grime, cross threaded metric nut, shriveled up o-ring. I was able to repair the threads and get the new arm on.

Couldn't put the carb back on with such a ghetto fuel plumbing and wiring. I repaired some hackery and bundled the wiring in split loom. I replace the fuel pump to carb with new hose instead of the six pieces it had been cut into. Also added some wire separators to clean up the look.

 

[rattle_snake]

Continuing on with the sketchy fuel system, I removed the tank behind the seat. Someone had messed with it, maybe the tank was out of something else. Mounts welded shut and new holes drilled. The upper attachment bar a different color. Doesn't matter took it all out. Removed the selector valve. Removed the gauge switch that was spliced in. The fuel supply line was in about 10 leaking pieces, cracked 5/16 hose on 3/8 lines. I had an AN6 union so I flared the existing line and extended a new one to the factory rear hardline.

No hose to leak.

The rear line was the only piece not cut up, so I left it and made a nipple on the new piece to match. Just start a double flare 45* and skip 2nd step.

Now only a short section of hose on supply other than the ends.

I adjusted the trans linkage to work properly with the column detents. Made sure it wouldn't start in reverse any more.

 

[rattle_snake]

The next most annoying aspect was the missing door and window weatherstrip. Did both doors, so much quieter..

The horn bar wouldn't stay attached so I revisited and tried to repair what I have. The ends were broken so I used some heatshrink to retain the metal strips.

The cracks in the wheel prevent the horn bar from fitting, so I hogged out the opening until it fit OK.

I used some highfalutin 'color matched' duct tape to cover the unused fuel fill.

And some more on the holes in the carpet. Looking good now.

 

[rattle_snake]

Beat down brown door panels didn't go well with the blue dash. Instead of new clips, just drill holes all over the door and use mismatched screws.

I cleaned and repaired the panels. They were all broken around the armrests, so epoxied the cracks and use some foil tape to hold things in place. Filled all the screw holes and hit with rattle can. For the armrests themselves, I used some vinyl paint.

Starting to look like someone cares.

 

[rattle_snake]

I removed the rear bumper to save weight, as this truck isn't going to tow anything. Roll pan on order.

And I bought some cheap-ass mirrors. But first to un-fuck all the holes from many types of mirrors.

Dover satin white rattle can, good enough for now.

$30 car mirror set. Now I even have a useless mirror on the right side. Getting fancy now.

 

[rattle_snake]

Next was addressing some drivability issues. Started with toe alignment, it was 1/2 out, and wandered badly. I set it to 1/16 in and now can drive with one hand. Amazing. The steering box sector bearing is shot, so I ordered a rebuild kit.

Next was C6 shift points. I pulled the hose off and screwed the modulator screw in 5-6 turns. And found reason for some nasty clunks changing gears. Trans not connected to mount, just 'floating'.

I went through all the vacuum lines and found the dizzy vac advance plugged with a ball bearing. I attempted connecting the VA to ported and manifold vac, both immediately kill engine. Will not start with hose attached. Checked VA with pump, it moves but leaks. The mechanical advance works with RPM. I set timing to 15, and it only gets to 30 total. At least now it can spin a tire. The pickup wiring is likely the issue, so new distributor in the works.

 

[rattle_snake]

White on white is too boring for me so I painted the wheels a bronze color. I was able to re-use the one mask tape and all on all four tires. 80 and sunny in November is nice for paint work.

Not the same as cool wheels, but only $10.

 

[WiscoF100]

You don’t seem to fully understand how whoop scissors work

I like the wheel color, same as my 77

Your comment about looks like somebody cares. It’s amazing what a little elbow grease can do to spit shine years of neglect or hack work. Seems like your work is cut out with many mysterious gremlins to sort out.

 

[rattle_snake]

Need some carb advice.

I have a Holley 4150 vac secondary carb. List 6647. Trying to identify what is the right rebuild kit for it. Holley lists as 'N/A'. This appears to be a marine carb, it did come of a 454 in a boat. I have seen is listed as a 750, 780 and a 600.

I have found the following rebuilt kit P/N associated with it
3-655
K455
generic 4150 is 37-485

Given I am going to try this on my 351, does it even mater which rebuild kit I use?

 

[rattle_snake]

Did some repairs to the grill and bumper. The right side had a piece missing due to a poorly installed trans cooler. I made the missing piece out of sheet metal in the brake.

I painted one side black, but didn't like the look. Other side silver, but needed the supports and screw bosses painted black to remove focus. So I went back and masked as needed. Came out OK. Next was to straighten the bumper.

This worked better. The bumper is a mess, but it works for now.

 

[rattle_snake]

Installed the roll pan. First step was to level the tailgate. The relief for the tailgate hinges was a bit small so I opened it up, as I will be the one to have to remove the tailgate. The piece seemed to fit best with a small gap to tailgate.

I went ahead and painted the piece before installing on the truck. otherwise would have to remove tailgate to paint the jam.

Then final fit up and welding. I used a shim to get a consistent gap. Left side fit pretty well, but the right needed some filler. The very bottom of the bedsides were untouched, but aren't really intended to be seen. I worked with a hammer and filled the void to give a semi finished look.

Then a little paint over the seams. I dusted the top of the tailgate to get a more uniform look.

 

[WiscoF100]

There’s eleventy billion Holley list numbers. Don’t let that occupy your brain. Most kits will come with several baseplate gaskets for throttle bore or circuit variants, metering block/plate options etc etc. Most importantly it comes down to (in your case) does it come with vacuum secondary associated parts when selecting a kit. There’s no need to overspend either.

 

[WiscoF100]

Half the kit you paid for will occupy your junk drawer for all eternity

 

[rattle_snake]

Cool thanks for the info.

I was able to get a used Edelbrock performer 351W intake manifold. After reading about fitment problems and port inconstancies of the import junk, I chose to go with the real deal.

I was gifted this Holley carb 25 years ago, it has worked well as a decoration. I bought a cheap velocity stack air cleaner just for looks.

 

[rattle_snake]

Half the kit you paid for will occupy your junk drawer for all eternity

I'm able to throw stuff away. No carb parts in my shop.





Ok well some motorcycle needles and so on.

 

[jhama78]

Ran a similar model 750 vac sec carb on a 383 sbc 20 plus years ago, didnt need a choke so ended up running this guy,

Proform Parts 67101C Proform Main Bodies for Holley Carburetors | Summit Racing

Free Shipping - Proform Main Bodies for Holley Carburetors with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Carburetor Main Bodies at Summit Racing.

www.summitracing.com

made a decent difference... cheap upgrade if the main body needs to be replaced for whatever reason. Make sure ya get non stick gaskets obviously, or if you use the paper ones, put chapstick on them so they dont stick the first few times ya gotta take them off during tuning.

 

[rattle_snake]

Still a bit lost on what I really need. Is there a go-to brand for rebuilt kits?

Summit Racing SUM-MBG03 Summit Racing™ Carburetor Rebuild Kits | Summit Racing

Free Shipping - Summit Racing™ Carburetor Rebuild Kits with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Carburetor Rebuild Kits at Summit Racing.

www.summitracing.com

?

Damn this old shit.
But at least this carb can be useful and save some $.


Tune? I though you just bolted it on and go? Simple as a dinosaur.

 

[WiscoF100]

To me, brand has never made a difference. I’ve bought Holley, Demon, no name $20 kits on eBay. That summit kit will do the job like all the rest 👍

Good score on the manifold. Find some GT40 heads and keep this rat project going. Idle hands are the devils workshop!

 

[rattle_snake]

Wish I had more time. Many other things to fix.

Need to do a compression test. I think the plan now is to pull the motor to work on it and clean it up. Pull the pan, check bearings. Pull the heads, port, check the valve guides. Mic the bores. Install a bigger cam after understanding the piston situation, deck height, quench, comp ratio. Reassemble, paint and headers.

 

[rattle_snake]

I checked #1 compression, warm. It was 125 psi, so that is OK. still waiting on distributor.....

 

[rattle_snake]

To go along with the old school hotrod theme, I installed a 5" monster tach with an external shift light front and center on the dash. Gaudy? Oh ya. Useful? not yet, but it is a statement.

Brings me back to the 90s with the tack face staring back at me.

 

[posford]

To go along with the old school hotrod theme, I installed a 5" monster tach with an external shift light front and center on the dash. Gaudy? Oh ya. Useful? not yet, but it is a statement.

Brings me back to the 90s with the tack face staring back at me.

Hell yes Monster tach for the old school

 

[WiscoF100]

This high falootin azzhole over here showing off his illuminated gear selector 🙄

Rest of us are just a bunch of peasants