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1968 IH C1300 2wd Restomod/Build

stopped screwing around with adapting the OEM hydroboost-to-rack line and just ordered the right adapters and 6AN (3/8JIC) fitting and hose to connect it all up

I can't imagine going to the local NAPA would be any cheaper than this guy was, and I don't have to spend an hour or two on a trip.

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had to pull the hydroboost to modify the input rod for the pedal connection. should have it all buttoned back up with pressure/return lines in place soon

been ordering some more parts

the 8.8 rear I found looks like it had the pinion nut back off. Debated just throwing in the crush sleeve replacement with the existing shims/setup it has now, but I have the LSD already. So do it right, do it once, gonna gut the axle and install the LSD with the 3.73's that are in it. I MAY drop it somewhere for the actual setup to save myself the time, but it should be easy if I have it sitting on sawhorses.
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got ahead of myself and ordered the famous Toyota Halogen headlight kit. IH8mud and some other sites blew up with these. I don't have a local dealer to get them for $40 like lots of people did, but $56 shipped is good to me. I don't like the look of the cheap LED options, and I like light at night
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and then I spent $55ish on a fancy rear diff cover. I may not keep it, not sure yet. but I'm hoping to be 350ish HP and reading up online it sounds like those bolts pushing on the bearing caps aren't a bad idea. I may decide OEM is fine and save the $$
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had to pull the hydroboost to modify the input rod for the pedal connection. should have it all buttoned back up with pressure/return lines in place soon

been ordering some more parts

the 8.8 rear I found looks like it had the pinion nut back off. Debated just throwing in the crush sleeve replacement with the existing shims/setup it has now, but I have the LSD already. So do it right, do it once, gonna gut the axle and install the LSD with the 3.73's that are in it. I MAY drop it somewhere for the actual setup to save myself the time, but it should be easy if I have it sitting on sawhorses.
1715703247395.png



got ahead of myself and ordered the famous Toyota Halogen headlight kit. IH8mud and some other sites blew up with these. I don't have a local dealer to get them for $40 like lots of people did, but $56 shipped is good to me. I don't like the look of the cheap LED options, and I like light at night
1715703472394.png
1715703492373.png


and then I spent $55ish on a fancy rear diff cover. I may not keep it, not sure yet. but I'm hoping to be 350ish HP and reading up online it sounds like those bolts pushing on the bearing caps aren't a bad idea. I may decide OEM is fine and save the $$
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Thanks for the cheap cover for the 8.8 in my YJ.
 
Thanks for the cheap cover for the 8.8 in my YJ.
no problem :cool2: Saw listings anywhere from $65-120 and I've got to imagine they all come out of the same factory. Some reviews said the hardware is shit, we'll see when they arrive
 
I've been mulling over PCM / Harness options. I have to wire the whole truck itself so I have some time, but I need to make a decision eventually. there's a chance I go #1, gamble on the cheap harness, and if it winds up giving me issues yank it off and spend the $$ on a name brand.

  1. Ebay harness with tuned factory PCM. $100ish harness + $300-400 tune. Potentially hours of verifying pinouts / checking continuity / etc pre-install, or a shitload of troubleshooting later. Still need some sort of gauges or at least Torque+dongle to start. No risk of obsolescence

  2. name-brand harness with factory PCM. $500-600 harness + $300-400 tune. In theory, the fastest option to get it running. barring surprise issues with the harness that I hope don't exist if I pony up the $$. Still need some sort of gauges or at least Torque+dongle to start. No risk of obsolescence

  3. Holly Terminator X harness+PCM+display. $1400-$1500 + $$ or time for tuning. has a small display or pony up more $$ for the big one. So probably need a couple gauges later for the dash. VERY known entity, low risk of obsolescence

  4. ACES Jackpot harness+PCM+display (Holly knockoff). $800ish + unknown time or $$ spend for tuning. Comes with a 7" display. Somewhat of a gamble, but in theory plug and play like the Holly. I'd guess moderate risk of obsolescence


there's virtually no chance I drive this thing this year with kid #2 on the way. I'm trying to get the bulk of the fab done, figuring I can spend 30 minutes here and there wiring and make progress versus trying to spend 30min at a time swapping in a rear axle. Even now, I'm lucky to get an hour at night some days of the week
 
I just ordered Holley with 6L80E control for my CJ8. Also the BIM for the Dakota Digital gauges.
 
I'm leaning towards factory PCM for reliability. I do not envision this thing ever getting boost or anything more extreme than what it is, so I'm struggling to justify the $$ of the Holly. End of the day I just want this to be a reliable turnkey driver and materials hauler.

I think the only way I can justify the Holly is if the self-tune program on it was good enough to not require more $$ for someone to tune it. But from what I've read it's not great, it gets you enough to run but you still want a tuner (AKA more $$) on top.


Jackpot is REALLY tempting to try out. but the future proofing on that one scares me. they're a proven company, but they aren't Holly. I've had too many tech gadgets go obsolete because of lack of support in the past
 
I'm leaning towards factory PCM for reliability. I do not envision this thing ever getting boost or anything more extreme than what it is, so I'm struggling to justify the $$ of the Holly. End of the day I just want this to be a reliable turnkey driver and materials hauler.

I think the only way I can justify the Holly is if the self-tune program on it was good enough to not require more $$ for someone to tune it. But from what I've read it's not great, it gets you enough to run but you still want a tuner (AKA more $$) on top.


Jackpot is REALLY tempting to try out. but the future proofing on that one scares me. they're a proven company, but they aren't Holly. I've had too many tech gadgets go obsolete because of lack of support in the past
Want a factory ECM and swap harness that's been run and is tried and true?
 
Want a factory ECM and swap harness that's been run and is tried and true?
I'll PM you, maybe. I'm early 24x crank & red/blue PCM, odds are you're the later gen. Though I'm now that I'm ditching the early DBW, I need to go refresh myself on the differences again. I have a red/blue 0411 PCM that can do DBC
 
well, I splurged on something unnecessary. Every manual car I've ever owned has had a short shift kit in it, except the Miata. I tried, but couldn't resist almost 50% off.

Now I'm looking back saying "shoulda not been cheap and spent the extra $150 on valve springs and a more aggressive cam". Owell...

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Interior is coming together. Clutch and brake pedals are in. Column is in. Heater box and duct are painted and temporarily reinstalled. Entire firewall and underdash area is sound deadened with Vevor 2-in-1 deadener than another 1/4" layer of closed cell foam. The entire cab is going to get heavy treatment, I wanted to get the behind-the-dash area done when I had easy access
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Hydroboost brakes/steering plumbing are finished. Pressure lines are one OEM, one 6AN adapted. Return line to the HB is OEM, return to the rack is 3/8 high pressure fuel line. This is why I almost went the iBooster route, would have kept the compartment WAY cleaner. but that was a whole other thing to learn and more $$ vs just using what I know, and had
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had to lop off the end of the HB shaft and make up some linkage. Had to use the OEM brake pedal due to packaging, Wilwood pedal would have to occupy the same place as the steering column.
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kinda overall shot of the mess. I need a bigger garage
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and what I found inside the 8.8. Looks to me that the crush sleeve failed, let the pinion go all haywaire inside. Gears themselves look fine, so as stated above, it's getting a china LSD unit and crush sleeve eliminator thrown in. Debated redoing the pinion and running it, but nows the time to get the LSD in.
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No pic but the axle is wire wheeled and painted. Need to hack the perches off in prep for new ones. hoping to join the Explorer e-brake to the factory pedal/cable with some cable clamps or something, we'll see.
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