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1940 Buick

The last time I used this Smittybuilt XRC-8 it made a bit of a grinding noise and was at or near smokin hot. been meaning to dig into it for a while and see if anything was going on with it or what.

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Control box removal

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and holy hell was it a pain in the ass to get the rope off. I got tired of pulling up on it while trying to balance and stand on it. fucker is stiff. so decided to use gravity and work with the weight instead of against it. I will say, the gentle and not positive lock for the engage/free wheel is annoying and easy to accidently switch

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Here is a couple of issues with rope, it really is a consumable and a wear item. overall in much worse shape than the cable was despite being many years newer. the black sleeve was on the 1st wrap around the drum. heat from use put a serious number on the thing.

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and then pulling the thing apart starts with the two holders together of the halves.

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this is an impressively small adapter from the motor

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the motor goes to that adapter, that goes to the whatever sprag setup, maybe a runaway lock? i dunno, but then it goes to a shaft that is 5/16" thick. :laughing: ah, the joys of gearing and stress reduction.



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Continuing on the motor side, 2 bolts are all that hold the motor to the case, smittybuilt lets you mount at 90* angles around the circle. The two wave washers hold tension on the bearing at the rear of the case

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The sealed bearing at the inboard (front) of the motor is labeled BOM 6203RS and the bearing at the outboard (rear) of the motor is BOM 6202RS. both of mine seemed to be in good shape

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tried seeing if i could pull the brushes in and hold them out of the way with some welding wire to reinstall the motor

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the was amazingly unsuccessful :laughing: so i knocked off the back cap

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With the back cap off, it was very easy to pull the springs off, send the brushes all the way out and slide the motor back in.

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With no real issues and just cleaning out a bunch of dirt from inside there, time to go look at the drive gear side.

both sides have these washer gasket things, they only go in one way and have a slot cut in them

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A whole bunch of 1/8" hex cap bolts for some stupid reason hold the back on

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and here you can see the heavy and old chinese grease and the simple engage/freewheel lever that goes onto the outside "clutch" ring around the planet gear

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Here is the outboard (back) two planet gearsets, the smallest sun gear is the most outboard and the one that is driven directly by the motor, then they share a ring gear
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and the 3rd inboard (front) planet set, of note is that it's ring gear is actually the housing to pull leverage from.

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i thought it was kind of interesting that this front sun gear gets 2 snap rings instead of the usual 1 :laughing: whatever :rasta:

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and if you can see it or not, this is a shot of the drum, which has the matching gear for the front sun gear, the largest of the 3, to mech directly with.

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Overall, i thought it was interesting how it is done differently from the hydraulic winch. I need to get a bunch of solvent so that i can soak these parts in a bucket and then regrease it all. for as much noise as it was makign, nothing appeared to be out of place, so whatever. maybe it was just the free/engage lever bouncing off the clutch.
 
Thefishguy77 said:
How did I miss this thread. Awesome to see you working on it. Maybe just maybe it will inspire me to work on mine.
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Thanks :laughing: i wanted to get your stuff done before working on my stuff, so i finally feel like i can kick around on it until something happens :laughing:

also, apparently i didn't take a picture but one of my steering arms is 6-1/2" from pin to pin and the other is at 7" :laughing: so the travel is a bit different between my two steering cylinders. I probably won't do anything to make them match, but it will be on my mind for a while :rasta:
 
Thefishguy77 said:
Man after reading and seeing you pulling your winches apart I almost want to pull mine apart before I use it to get rid of the Chinese grease. Almost...:lmao:
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you really do :laughing: the worst part is getting the old gunk out

new grease makes a significant difference. you should have seen me trying to unwind the damn thing :lmao: compared to my regreased winch that i can spin by hand


edit: $30 for a short fairlead, not a bad price at all. with a 7" drum, 4.5" opening should be just fine, considering it's going to end up mounted kind of up and away compared to traditional

Aluminum fairlead - Short drum (summitmachine.com)
 
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Leatherhead_25 said:
Can you grab the Wms on that front axle for me?
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yup, give me a little bit as power hour is nearly on the TV :rasta:

FJ60 or 40 or something, 9.5" ring gear with 30 spline mini truck birfields, with minitruck IFS hubs with GX470 slip on rotors for all of the scrub possible....because turning is over rated and cutting brakes are the plan. it is a couple inches wider than the "Tacoma width" rear.
 
Leatherhead_25 said:
Can you grab the Wms on that front axle for me?
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I'm at 66" from center of tire to center of tire in the front and 62-1/2" in the rear.

rear is a 9.5" center with "tacoma width" shafts. so if the rear is overall tacoma stock width at 60.75, then my front would be 64-1/4" wide.

Stock FJ60 width is 60" plus 3" from IFS hubs + 3/4" from the rotors, plus 1/2" from the wheel spacers sounds about right

next time i have the tires off ( :laughing: hopefully never!) i'll get a better measurement from the actual outside of the brake rotor.

Dookey would probably know offhand what the 8bolt wheel width and pressed center backspacing is.



Toyota Axle Widths: 21 of 'em for Axle Swaps - Roundforge


edit:
BillaVista.com-Dana 60 Front Axle Bible Tech Article by BillaVista

looks like standard D60 front full width is 69-70" wide, so certainly room for some gain if i feel rich one of these days
 
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Since I'm no longer at TWF I charge by the second to answer H1 wheel questions. :flipoff2:

8 bolts are 9.5" outside to outside. If you shove the centers all the way up in there you get 3.5" of back spacing. So 6" of front spacing. Plus your tire bulge. :)
 
Dookey said:
Since I'm no longer at TWF I charge by the second to answer H1 wheel questions. :flipoff2:

8 bolts are 9.5" outside to outside. If you shove the centers all the way up in there you get 3.5" of back spacing. So 6" of front spacing. Plus your tire bulge. :)
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:laughing:

your wheels are basically H1 rip-offs :flipoff2: :flipoff2:

so if they are 1" apiece out from center, than that makes my 66" center of tire with 64" WMS certainly close enough that i won't bother to pull the tires off just for this :beer: :beer:






except for being a proper size, half the weight, twice the load rating and having some sort of decent appearance :rasta: i'd drop a link to them, but fawk me running if i knew where to buy them other than via PM to you :confused:
 
Feels like it's been 2 full year since I've touched this thing. Moving sucks, but at least it rolls :laughing:

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Hadn't driven the pickup for about 6 months or so, it wasn't happy Gently tugging this uphill, but it did start surprisingly well.

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It's supposed to rain for the next few weeks but I really need the garage space, so it lives atop the driveway now.

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Tarp

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And shrink wrap after liberal wd40 I'm curious to see of the wrap will hold up for a highway cruise :laughing:

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Time, money, energy. I'm optimistic it won't sit for 2 more years before I can get some dang progress.
 
Provience said:
Planning on rolling out in 2 weeks. Such am incredible amount of absolute crap to box up :lmao:
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Nice! If you ever get in a bind and need an extra hand at the house hit me up. I'm about 2.5 - 3hrs away from where you are moving to and in Texas that's considered "just around the corner". :laughing:
 
Sterlingfire said:
I couldn't imagine... not sure how you do it. If i was to move as far as you I'd be looking to sell a bunch of my crap.
Hopefully you'll get more time to work on it on Texas. Good luck!
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Hopefully before I have to move again I'll be able to get some shop/garage/storage space built out on my retirement property so that I can stack crap in a single spot for a while. We were boxing up pictures and stuff and the wife was like "i didn't hang it here, and i won't hang it in the next house, but when we build our house i want it there" :rasta: so it's either continue to move it for another decade or hopefully get it stacked up there so it can stay put :laughing:

same thing with some project cars and such. having a place to where I can store and leave things will be a huge plus
 
thing looks so wicked, hope you can get back to it soon as always some good tech in here :beer:
 
Provience said:
Hopefully before I have to move again I'll be able to get some shop/garage/storage space built out on my retirement property so that I can stack crap in a single spot for a while. We were boxing up pictures and stuff and the wife was like "i didn't hang it here, and i won't hang it in the next house, but when we build our house i want it there" :rasta: so it's either continue to move it for another decade or hopefully get it stacked up there so it can stay put :laughing:

same thing with some project cars and such. having a place to where I can store and leave things will be a huge plus
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Yeah i get it. You gotta do it for now. I just know the stress of moving since we just did that 3 years ago now, and it was only 3 miles:eek:across state lines would make me pretty anxious:laughing:
Getting a building stood up on your property would make it much nicer... maybe some conex boxes for now,then you can bury them later. At least that's what I would do to get some semi permanent secure places to store stuff.

As far a the Buick, i really hope you can get some time. It is pretty damn good outside, and i think you're going to have a rad ride when finished:smokin:
 
Thought I had a good idea to use some moving dollies, turns out the small ones worked way better than the big ones, but at the end of the day our concrete is just not good enough :laughing:


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And snapped this poor guy when it hit the gravel

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so went ahead and just pulled it up the hill and used gravity, wife refused to drive the pickup, so she got to turn the tires. Eventually my retired neighbor and one of his retiree friends came over to see what was going on and joined in the fun. I did think about welding this up more than just the little bit of tack that was there to hold it in place, turns out it should have happened. While pushing on the tires to turn it without the car rolling, mount decided to give up the ghost. couple of 2" straps shifted it back into place, doesn't seem to be much other damage

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bought the fancy 700lb each rated ramps from harbor freight. Pickup holding from the rear, chain around the subframe, and a dagum hand winch to get it over the humps in the ramps

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I won't pretend it was a quick process, but it was a successful one :laughing:

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Provience said:
Just lamenting that's it's been about 3 years since I've touched this thing :crybaby: :crybaby2:

Maybe this winter...
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I feel your pain...i started mine over 4 years ago.... last year i put maybe 10-12 hours into it. My wife is trying to get me to part it out (i won't), because it doesn't have enough doors and she hates the body style. I'm going to get my k5 set up and running well this year and I'll be getting on the shit box full steam next year.
I hope you can do Stonegate the same my friend!
 
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